(Topic ID: 96122)

WTH! Firepower upper lock shot.

By Geocab

9 years ago


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  • 63 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by rcbrown316
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

Should the upper lock shot be difficult to hit even with a clean shot? I wouldn't think so, but it sure seems that way.

Even with a clean shot, the ball falls just short of the lock and drops down the "E" lane. I have rebuilt the flippers with new coils, Fliptronics style flipper mechs, with the EOS switch set to close with just less than an 1/8" of travel left in the piston. Just did a playfield swap with a CPR repro. Also a new switch installed at the right flipper button. Last I checked the table is at 6 degrees tilt.

What else should I be checking?

Thanks as always!

#14 9 years ago

I have a new cabinet flipper switch. What's the proper adjustment on that?

I guess I'll take the flipper assembly apart and see if I put it together incorrectly.

As for flipper bat alignment, I have it to where the bat without rubber rests on a pin in the playfield hole.

I'm almost positive that I have the correct coil. I'll double check anyway...

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

The metal guide that feeds the flipper gate hammered back too. A rolling feed will hop off the flipper ring, robbing power from the shot. I think Cliffy remade those.

I'm sorry, I'm not completely understanding what you're saying here.

#21 9 years ago

Ok, I get what you're saying now, Cody. Thanks.

#23 9 years ago

I bought the EOS switches separate so they have the metal brace. I followed Vid's guide.

#24 9 years ago

My flipper coil is SFL 19/400 30/750.

#25 9 years ago

I have 37-38 volts at each lug on the right flipper. I tightened the crimps on the wires to the bridge rectifier. Spinner spins freely and I can make the shot on a roll, but still not a cradle. The flipper parts feel good and I rechecked the EOS gap.

I'm almost ready to have a very experienced tech come over and look this over. Just frustrating that I can't figure this out.

#26 9 years ago

Would it be worth a try to replace the bridge rectifier? 200V, 35 amp correct?

#28 9 years ago

Not yet, no. I'm going to have to recheck the degrees again, maybe I'm steeper than I think.

#32 9 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

If it's not the flippers, perhaps the metal guide near the spinner lane is forcing the ball down. For a clean shot through the spinner, what F.I.R.E. lane does the ball usually go through?

The "E".

#35 9 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

This must be frustrating.. I made a short video of the ball trajectory. Hope this helps.
» YouTube video

Thank you. A clean shot always looks like your last shot you labeled Weak Spinner Shot. Yours hits it pretty strong. Mine is no where near that beginning part of the video off of a cradle. Did you have a mulit-camera setup?

#41 9 years ago

Could I trouble someone to take some photos of their flipper assembly if you have a Fliptronics style so that I xan see if there's something way different on mine? Maybe I didn't do a good job on the rebuild, I am still a novice with this. Although my F-14 flippers all work well after I rebuilt them.

J, the added tensioner looks good. I'll try to add some photos, or maybe some video.

Jumping-box, nice editing then. I thought you had multiple cameras set up and then edited in the footage of the same shot. What camera? The first shot looked like a GoPro view to me.

#42 9 years ago

Here's a quick vid of me trying to make the upper lock.

#43 9 years ago

And here is my EOS gap. Although it was a little bigger before.

#44 9 years ago

Also, I just took another measurement, my playfield is at 6 degrees.

#47 9 years ago

You know, I didn't notice I don't have the rubber grommet. Good catch!

#49 9 years ago

I taped the spinner up so the ball would simply travel under it with no contact and the ball still does not hit the saucer. So I think I have two things to work out. Maybe the spinner needs to be loosened up somehow, but I still think I don't have enough power for this shot. I'm going to solder the wires to the bridge next.

#51 9 years ago

Thanks for the alignment tip. I readjusted to be straight with the lane guide and I can cradle with the rubber grommet installed. However, still not making the shot. I used a credit card with a slot cut out instead of the Williams tool. I did not replace the bushing with the swap, but when I rebuilt the flippers about a year ago. Haven't had much play time on the machine because my boards were wonky.

If you're ever in the Cleveland area, west side, you're welcome to stop on by and maybe you can see in person something I'm doing incorrectly and teach me.

#55 9 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Ok, on this chart....
http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/PlayfieldParts.pdf
The post at location #10, labeled 'rubber bumper post'.
Does it have a rubber ring on it? These are the thin steel posts that have the tiny rings on them. If so, take the ring off.
-Hans

Ok, I took the ring off. Is that ring not supposed to be on there in the first place?

Things I've done today:

Took spinner out
Took Ball Gate out
Jumpered EOS switch (Only a couple of tries so I didn't burn up the coil)
Took out rubber ring

The ball trajectory still falls short most of the time. The ball does make it though. But it sure doesn't hit as hard as the videos posted previously of other machines making the shot.

I cleaned the spinner up and it seems to spin a bit more now. Reinstalled everything other than the rubber on that post.

One last thing to try is switching the left and right coils and see if there's a difference.

#58 9 years ago

Yes. I bought one at the last Ohio Pinball Show. It's a CPR repro. My last playfield looked pretty worn.

#60 9 years ago

I did, but i haven't had much time to test.

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