(Topic ID: 68368)

Super Chexx bubble hockey unofficial thread

By taylor34

10 years ago


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    #197 9 years ago
    Quoted from toyboy6:

    I have a Carrom that I bought like 8 years ago. Kids and I use it all the time. I've never had a problem with it and still works great today. I've played Super Chexx too and there is no doubt that build quality is better than on the Carrom. However, at the time I didn't have as much disposable cash and $2k+ wasn't going to happen. Don't regret getting the Carrom - if I was faced with the same decision today with a bit more disposable cash I might go with the Super Chexx, but the price disparity is definitely something to take into account.
    Scott

    100415 Game Room 04.jpg 182 KB

    Thanks for posting that! My gf is big into hockey, and after pinheadpuckguy got one, I've been thinking it would be fun. I didn't know they had these. I'll be looking out for a used one!

    1 month later
    #217 9 years ago

    I want one team to be the characters from Disney's Frozen.

    #222 9 years ago

    Well how expensive are new players so you could have a "stock" set and painted set?

    #225 9 years ago

    I think I could squeeze one into my game room. I'm already planning on downsizing my couch to fit more pins. These are fun and take abuse of little kids. My hockey liking gf, didn't really like it the few times she played though :/

    4 months later
    #256 9 years ago
    Quoted from Muscle_cars_only:

    Anyone know where to pickup the main PCB for the original CHEXX? Where a good used one is? Anyone that fixes them?

    I couldn't find any either. They seem pretty serviceable like a pinball board. I was going to ask Clive @ coin op cauldron if he fixes them.....

    #257 9 years ago

    TNT Video!

    #258 9 years ago
    #262 9 years ago

    I couldn't sleep last night as I was dreaming of he schematics to make the raspberry pi run the whole thing lol

    1 week later
    #266 9 years ago

    Anyone know where, who or a kit to rebuild the board and power supply for the original 83 chexx?

    #271 9 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    The original power supply is prettyow tech. Just a cap and some diodes. I sent the pcb to chexx about 2 years ago and they fixed it for around 100.

    Ah ok. I emailed chexx and haven't heard back. I've heard their support could use some improvement. Good to know about the psu.

    #274 9 years ago
    Quoted from pinballphil:

    I'm working on my '83 Chexx and I need a chip for the sound to work properly. Does anyone know where I can get a MM54104 digitalker IC for a reasonable price?

    I'd call chexx
    or
    http://www.nowcomponents.com/parts/MM54104

    1 month later
    #277 8 years ago

    Here ya go! This helped me a ton!

    http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/chexx.htm

    1 week later
    #285 8 years ago

    so from my minimal knowledge while looking for a chexx....

    Original Chexx are like 500-1200 tops. They are old, lack some parts, old parts, old sound.

    The superchexx can run 1200-2000 pretty easy. They offer better sound, shots on goal counter and are newer.

    So yes, 1600 for an original 83 is over paying. Unless I am wrong, someone correct me. Brand new home versions of super chexx are 2500, so 1600 :s yikes, sorry man

    #293 8 years ago
    Quoted from meSz:

    For 2995 you can buy a new USA vs CCCP game: http://www.icechexx.com/p-1-team-usa-cccp-canada.aspx
    If you're just after the players ICE sells them new for $99: http://www.icegame.com/p-23884-1980-cccp-team-away.aspx

    the home (no coindoor) usa vs can is only 2495
    http://www.icechexx.com/p-2-ice-super-chexx.aspx

    Then you can add the coin door or split base.

    You can paint your own or buy new figures for other teams like usa vs russia or nhl teams etc.

    #294 8 years ago
    Quoted from SadSack:

    I had one of those over a year ago. I had it for a couple of months. It needed a few gearboxes and the players were pretty beat up. I sold it for $550 and the guy was going to put about $750 more into it to restore it. These are the regular chex and it had a broken sensor on one side for the crowd noise when you get a shot on goal.
    You hardly ever see these for sale because everyone who has them keeps them. I think $1650 is not over-paying if the game is local and ready to go. What are you going to do.. wait to find one for $500 less that you have to put a few hundred into anyway? Sometimes you just bite the bullet and buy what's available. It really boils down to how you want to spend your time.

    Although I kind of agree, that is waiting worth xyz? At the same time, used superchexx are going for 1300-1600, why pay 1600 for the original with less features and old parts? for 800$ more you can go BRAND new. I know that is a lot, but it for sure is something to consider. I've over paid on pins, and in the end it doesn't matter what we say on this forum, it is how you feel about the deal and if the cost was worth it to you. If that was the only game available for months in the area, then sure it for sure could be worth it. But I started looking for one, finally found a original broken one for pretty cheap, it would cost a lot to refurb it and be in the 1500 dollar area, so I kind of decided against it. If I really want one, I'll wait for a used superchexx or get a new one. Sometimes ICE has scratch n dent deals, just have to ask.

    #299 8 years ago

    you can use headlight (from car) polish, or I think any plastic polish to buff the dome. I don't think you'll be able to get the scratch out.

    You can however buy a new dome.. Wonder if theres a way to fill in the scratch then buff?

    #308 8 years ago

    well that looks a heck of a lot better!

    #315 8 years ago
    Quoted from Kahanaohana:

    im thinking of getting one of these used. Ive never had one, but but a used one is up for sale at a ok price. Is there anything in particular to look for or check out when I go look at it? any parts that are prone to breaking? thanks for any info.

    Here is a good guide
    http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/chexx.htm

    Depends if it is original or super chexx. If original, check that the sound works, each goal registers, look at the boards and verify they are not nasty. Also make sure the scoreboard works.

    On the superchexx, make sure the same as above, but also the shots on goal works and the music for a goal is good. Otherwise it is quality of the ice, dome and players.

    Quoted from sturner:

    How much are replacement domes? I'm interested in getting one but most of the used ones I've seen have some big time dome damage.

    $307 from ICE
    http://www.icegame.com/p-24263-asy-dome-chexx.aspx

    #319 8 years ago

    Hmm, are the back of the nets warping? The theory is they should angle them into the hole beneath....but I could see if the puck was angled up, or the net was warped...

    You could try a new net or puck I suppose.... maybe someone with more knowledge will throw some learning our way!

    I do like this mod.... Actual net
    http://www.instructables.com/id/Intro-64/

    #321 8 years ago
    Quoted from GRB1959:

    Does your game have the net curtain installed?
    http://www.icegame.com/p-24265-net-curtain.aspx
    This is needed to reduce/eliminate bounce outs.
    Gord
    SC3002A.jpg

    do you mean, like the plastic has a "net" look in it?

    delete.jpgdelete.jpg
    #323 8 years ago

    Oh oh oh. I thought you mean, does your "net" have a curtain in it" if not, order this...which is true, BUT I thought the net curtain was just the "net" looking plastic.

    Ah thank you for the information! I was unaware they had a thin piece in there to absorb! It makes sense.

    3 weeks later
    3 months later
    #349 8 years ago
    Quoted from PinsOnly:

    I couldn't handle it being so low, so I found a plastic Pallet and put ours on that, waaaaay easier on the back! Amazing what a difference it makes!

    Ahhhh good idea!

    2 weeks later
    #352 8 years ago

    Nice! And it's your team!

    #358 8 years ago
    Quoted from Trooper11040:

    There isn't much to them at all...electronics wise, its only has 1 board in the coin door area...that board controls everything from sound to the game itself...and there is another circuit board in the scoreboard...and only a few settings which are switched with small buttons on the main board...the settings can be adjusted by looking at the scoreboard and there isn't much to adjust...time per period, coins per credit, opening anthem (canada or USA), puck eject strength, and a few other minor settings...There are some eddy board type sensors near the nets that activate the crowd cheering sounds, and there is a solenoid for the puck to eject out from under the playing surface...and a sensor down below the net that activates if the puck passes between it to award a goal...its very easy maintenance wise...after owning this, then getting my first pin, i was OVERWHELMED big time lol

    I was going to say, they are simple but tough as heck!

    1 week later
    #361 8 years ago
    Quoted from ChrisS:

    Jesus. That is sick. I love those nets.

    Isn't that cool!? I think some people say they have issues, but usually it works well.

    2 months later
    #368 8 years ago

    Just picked mine up! Needs a lot of work. Try to figure the insane wiring hacks and get it operational, then recondition what is needed. Exciting!

    #369 8 years ago

    Aahhhh the score board plug was burned, so they tapped the wires at the next spot. I'll have to order a new molex plug and cable.

    But before that it doesn't even power. I get 120vac after then fuse in the psu but no DC voltages.

    There's a small board in the psu box. Anyone replace that cap?

    image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

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    #370 8 years ago

    Well I pulled the fuse and my dumb ass thought it was a half height.... And it looked fine, tested and wasn't going so finally figured I'll pull it and sure enough it was bad.... Power works!!!

    image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

    #372 8 years ago

    Played a few games with the neighbor Needs a couple gear boxes looked at, and a good clean up but she'll be in business shortly!

    1 week later
    #374 8 years ago

    So what does everyone clean the ice with and what about the dome?

    Mine is pretty dirty!

    1 week later
    #376 8 years ago
    Quoted from meSz:

    Novus for the dome! The ice surface use a Magic Erasure if it's real dirty! If it's not real dirty you can use Novus on that as well. If you want the ice to be more slick spray Pledge onto it!

    Thanks! Need to clean this puppy up and throw it on route!

    #380 8 years ago

    3m headlight restoration is okay for a scratched/dirty/used dome?

    http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

    need it to look better and there are some scoffs

    2 weeks later
    #381 8 years ago

    Did anyone add these? Props to boston pinball company for continuing parts for chexx!!

    ebay.com link: Goal Net Enhancement Style 3 use on Chexx or Super Chexx Bubble Hockey SET of 2

    s-l1600_(resized).jpgs-l1600_(resized).jpg

    EDIT: They actually make a handful of different versions; Round, square, full just the front edge, etc.

    #382 8 years ago

    What are people doing when the "OH" sensor on original chexx breaks or is missing a reed switch? The new version doesn't look to have the same pin out....but that is just a picture so it may be different. I was about to order new reed switches and solder them in. One of my boards is missing a reed switch.

    New version on ICE site
    SC6706X_(resized).jpgSC6706X_(resized).jpg

    Original
    20140916_1215091_zps20c420c7_(resized).jpg20140916_1215091_zps20c420c7_(resized).jpg

    #384 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    Looks like the same pinout to me. They've just increased the number of n/o contact switches.

    I ordered one. I'll post when I try it.

    So my ICE has a plastic protector like film on the back side....is that supposed to be there (it is flaking/pealing off) or should I remove it?

    #386 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    On the goal? Yes, that's normal to protect it and limit bounce outs.

    No, on the underside of the ice. I'll see if I can get a pic.

    #387 8 years ago

    Underside

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    #389 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    Looks like the plastic that probably came on both sides when it was raw material. Looks pretty gross, I can't see how it would hurt anything to remove.

    Ok good. Yeah, I thought so too. Game has lots and lots of plays on it. Kinda nasty looking plastic

    #390 8 years ago

    Boston pinball new score board

    image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

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    #391 8 years ago

    I was redoing the dome with the 3m auto headlight kit.....1 kit is NOT enough, you'll need 3-4, also a corded drill. Not coming out perfect but there was a NASTY large scrape in my dome and $50 for a 90% good dome is cheaper than $500 for a new one. I'll post pics once it is done.... Large part order from chexx is on its way as well. Should be here Wednesday.

    #393 8 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Looking to buy a used one locally. What are the dimensions of the base with the top off? Need to figure out if I can get it in my Mazda CX-9 and not sure if the base splits in half.

    You may need to make two trips.... it is just awkward large.
    Size 60"d x 36"w x 54"h Weight 130 lbs that is the entire unit

    #395 8 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Thx. Two trips ain't happening as its 3 hrs rt.
    Top and base come off, just need dimensions of the based without playfield and bubble.

    Bring a trailer. I have an escape, but brought a trailer to haul the base. Bubble fit no prob in the rear hatch.

    #400 8 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    It does. Looks like it will fit. 31" height should be more than enough to slide it right in. And 36" width is plenty. Thanks!

    Problem is fitting both the base and the top at the same time....... You think it will fit? I thought a tahoe fit it all.... I started a thread about this but no one posted.

    #406 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    My Chexx has some stripped allen screws in my rod collars. I am hoping to jbweld on some tiny hex nuts and then back them out. Any other ideas?

    There's a stripped screw kit that may work. I've used it on my cars before

    #407 8 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Thanks...one way or another it's coming home with me Sunday morning. It has the split base and coin door options. Huo and like new! May have to tie playfield to the roof. It's a great deal.

    Oh split base? Ah ya you may fit it in the cx9 then

    #413 8 years ago

    The power switch is in the coin door.

    Always could do an automatic power with Belkin wemo stuff or just a power strip with a switch

    #414 8 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Got it home, barely fit in the car, but it fit, surprsingly. It was really tight getting down into my basement, it rubbed the walls all the way down, but its down there, is like new and works perfectly. Got it for a little over 40% off retail. No idea how I'll get it out my basement if I ever sell it.
    How do you turn it on and off? Is the only way by plugging it into the wall? If so, Ill have to put an inline switch in.

    20160221_092333_(resized).jpg20160221_114240_(resized).jpg20160221_092338_(resized).jpg

    How is the game working out!?

    #418 8 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Freakin awesome! Kids love it, they've had friends over, they love it. I really like how the sounds coincide with the shots. Wonder if there is an LED bulb to replace the overhead light, a cooler white to better mimic the color of ice in arenas? It's a bit to yellow now.
    Really happy with the purchase, like having a brand new pin. Hope it lasts.

    http://chexxfan.proboards.com/thread/1125/led-light-upgrade

    should help some.

    Otherwise a new stock bulb should help some, the bulb is probably yellowed some.

    3 weeks later
    #419 8 years ago

    What do you guys do so the coupler doesn't wear and break the ribbon?

    All I could think of was angling it, tape it down. Or cut in between the wires to make it more flexible and tape it down.

    It doesn't line up straight to the hole :/

    image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

    #420 8 years ago

    Game all done with led scoreboard and now goals don't increment on the score board :/ cheers still happen when goal is made though.

    Score board lights up and looks like it works but there was a hack to the ribbon at the coin door cpu board side. Ribbon wear at the collar must of shorted out the board so they cut the ribbon and used wire and wire nuts to the back side of the board to make a connection as the connector has some burns at two pins :/

    #421 8 years ago

    Looking at buying a new header/connector for the cpu board. Emailed bostonpinballcompany as well as I'll be buying their upgraded cable.

    Question for any original 83' Chexx owners. The 8 pin header on the cpu, is there all pins? Or is one cut?

    image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

    #422 8 years ago
    Quoted from northvibe:

    Looking at buying a new header/connector for the cpu board. Emailed bostonpinballcompany as well as I'll be buying their upgraded cable.
    Question for any original 83' Chexx owners. The 8 pin header on the cpu, is there all pins? Or is one cut?

    image_(resized).jpeg

    i think pin 1 is at the top.. Here is the schematic. in that case it would be a "shield" aka ground? I ordered a new BPC ribbon, should be here this week, that will rule out the ribbon.

    Screen_Shot_2016-03-20_at_7.22.40_PM_(resized).pngScreen_Shot_2016-03-20_at_7.22.40_PM_(resized).png

    #423 8 years ago

    Boston Pinball Company is amazing! Got my new ribbon cable, working great. He also threw in the pin header for my cpu board. WORKING! Original chexx hole to the cab doesn't line up.....sooo still trying to decide how to route the cable.

    I have 2 brand new OH Sensors, they are not working. The one original still works (has one broken sensor). Anyone know why it wouldn't work? The pin outs are the same.....Has anyone ordered new reed switches from digikey or somewhere and swapped them out on the original boards?

    #425 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    Did you try testing the oh sensor with a multimeter? Put the lead to both sides and then puck the puck near it. Maybe the puck isn't strong enough magnetically or the sensor is just broken. Or the PCB has cracked headers, etc...

    Sort of, hard to hold them all... but it is a brand new puck. The puck(s) make the old reed's click, the new ones are sooo damn close, I got one out of 4 on one of the sensors to work once.....

    Playing phone tag with Ice support now. Reed switches for old boards on order....see about those.

    #426 8 years ago

    Seems both new sensors are bad. Only one reed switch on one sensor will get the "ohhhh" every so often.

    Ice called me, getting them warrantied.

    Hopefully the extra reeds I ordered can repair the originals

    #427 8 years ago

    Ha, dug in today. Continuity tested the wire harness and oh sensor boards. Spliced two wires that had the pinch in them and then one old and one new oh sensor board had the oh sensors in full contact all the time so they didn't work.

    Ice already sent warranty replacements I'll test those and hope to have two new working ones.

    #428 8 years ago

    Freaking header burned up today :/ anyone know a place or person that rebuilds or repairs original Chexx boards? The moog ones. Otherwise it is time to retro fit the game with a super Chexx or pi :/

    image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

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    #430 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    ICE rebuilt mine a few years ago. I replaced all the caps and ICs and could never get it working on my own. I would really like to see a PI solution.

    I'll call my guy there and ask about rebuilding. If they cannot. I can try to see what I can do, but the back side is bubbly....I think id' have to scrape up the top material to see any traces or where it is having the issue.

    If they don't....I'll be diving into a Pi solution and then make sure to have a how to and the code.

    #432 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    I always thought it would be cool to have a video output with scores and shots on goals. You could output it to a small lcd or even a TV near the machine. And maybe mount a camera somewhere for a live feed.

    Speaking with my nerd friend. He thinks an Arduino would be better as Pi's have issues with hard shutdowns. All that video out stuff should be doable with the Arduino as well. I'll have one person look over the board, then call ICE and if those two solutions don't work. I'll be making a project

    #434 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    Cool! But I hard power down my HTPC Pi all the time. Never any problems. Maybe OS depenant? Did Arduino add video output? I havn't looked at them in years.

    I haven't either, it was just something he mentioned. Which os do you run?

    1 week later
    #436 8 years ago

    So, Rob Anthony repaired my chexx moog board out at MGC. The quote was like "what the @$#@$# happened to this". I was showing chris s the led score board when the damn thing lit on fire. ugh. Any who, he got the board cleaned and fixed. I put it in the game the other night and it is running! No issues so far but only one for a few minutes. I'm not sure I trust this to be on route, powered on 24/7, but it will be great at home now. Still going to try to get this SOC system going. Have some big ideas for features.....soooo it could get wild

    2 months later
    #440 7 years ago

    It's alive!

    IMG_1926-2_(resized).jpgIMG_1926-2_(resized).jpg

    6 months later
    #479 7 years ago
    Quoted from Phatchit:

    I picked up an original 83 chexx that was in need of a restore . I'm almost done but I need the board serviced . It works except the scoreboard . I bought the upgrade scoreboard kit but the section on the board needs rebuilt . Does anyone know where I can send it to get it rebuilt ? I was also wondering , could you use a pi board and get it to have the same play but with better sound ?

    Look at the pins the scoreboard header plugs into. They usually burn BAD. Mine was black, burned bad on the back and had a hack done. Rob Anthony fixed mine at MGC, but it only had a bad header pin for the scoreboard.

    #491 7 years ago
    Quoted from stef34:

    hi i m not an expert at all but wich is the main difference with a carrom bubble hockey.
    cause i played a chexx one many years before and sure one day get one in my game room.
    thanks.

    cheaper more home style version. It does not play the same as a chexx. I wanted to get a chexx and I couldn't find any cheap so I was going to get a knock off, was highly recommended to me by MANY people not to, if you want the chexx play. So I didn't and found a broken 83 chexx and fixed it The chexx is well worth the price.

    1 week later
    #504 7 years ago
    Quoted from jasonp:

    Anyone ever have issues with the boo sound not working as it should?
    Is there a chip I can reset? I have the chexx version.

    you only get x boo presses a period, but you'll have to check to make sure the buttom works. HOw is the sound otherwise?

    When you start a new game, the boo button will skip the anthem. way to test the button.

    During a period the button will boo, if it doesn't but does skip the anthem, could be a board issue. The chips I think are all soldered on. MOOG did the sound on the board. You will want to check where the scoreboard header plugs into the main board for scorch marks, it starts there. Mine was burnt real bad.

    #506 7 years ago
    Quoted from jasonp:

    That works ... I just get a mess of a noise after that .... I bet it is the cable because my main light is not working either ... I really haven't dug into the game yet.

    Mmmm. Ok so open the coin door and check where the ribbon goes to the board from the top part. You will want to verify that isn't burned out bad. MANY are. Mine had some crazy hacks, big ole burn/scorch mark on the header pin. Once you verify that header pin which you may have to remove the board and check the backside, you'll be able to tell.

    Also, I went with boston pinballs led score board...expensive but oh so nice.

    #515 7 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    Rebuilding the 83 era scoreboard is very easy. Time consuming without a desoldering tool, but easy to shotgun repair the ICs. Put in an LED instead of the super hot incandescent and I doubt it will ever fail again.

    Man did anyone put a kit together to do a rebuild? I would of done that instead, HOWEVER the boston kit gets rid of all the cluster and mess the original had. It also allows the fan to not be used, if wanted. It was a great way to keep an old machine but update. Now I just need to get back to working on the arduino as the main board.....

    #531 7 years ago
    Quoted from Agent_Hero:

    Anyone interested in an original, green base Kixx bubble soccer? Works, but the players could use a fresh coat of paint.

    Holy sheet! I've rarely seen these. Post this on KLOV they'd eat this up

    1 week later
    #550 7 years ago
    Quoted from GRB1959:

    I don't think you will regret either option in the long run. Many collectors will want the coin door option and the split base option is nice if a potential buyer down the road doesn't have a wide enough doorway.
    So for an extra $300 you get both options. That may very well prove out to be money well spent.
    Gord

    Also, they can take a giant beating. I have a 1983 chexx and it is amazing how they can be on route for 20-30 years and still work. I love they keep the game pretty much the same so 90% of parts are the same You'll love it and it will last!~

    #565 7 years ago
    Quoted from jathomp22:

    This is on our local Craigslist. Figured I'd pass it on to this thread.
    minneapolis.craigslist.org link

    mmm good price. If my chexx buyer didn't back out I woulda scooped that up.

    #572 7 years ago
    Quoted from albose:

    Anyone ever have success repairing a gear box? I have several players that could use a new gear box. I found a listing on eBay of someone selling just the gear box "clutch" for $5 claiming this is generally the part that goes and you can disassemble the box, replace the clutch and it'll work like new. Curious if anyone has tried this before. Definitely a lot cheaper than buying a whole new box for around $25. Might be worth just spending a few bucks to give it a try.

    Have a post?

    Lots of times the teeth of the gears wear as well.

    #590 7 years ago

    Sega's came out in the 70's it says?

    Chexx was 1983. I have an original chexx and it is sometime from 1983. If you open the sega up you should get pics of the boards and such!

    #594 7 years ago

    you guys use the white grease in the player gear boxes, or graphite?

    #598 7 years ago
    Quoted from albose:

    I've had good luck with the white grease but have only used it on a few gear boxes so far. When I picked up my used Chexx and took off the ice at home, there was graphite powder everywhere. It was a total mess. Someone had tried to lubricate all the tracks and rods with it and that stuff is not easy to clean up. Still working on it a couple months later but the game was a steal and almost 100% so can't complain too much.

    My 1983 was and is like that too. Graphite just clumped but almost permant stuck to stuff.

    I have some new gearboxes though and was going to lube them all again. I have white lithium grease for gear boxes in pinball, saw someone mention it above. Curious if that would work. Real stringy and sticky so shouldn't throw off and stay on.

    1 week later
    #611 7 years ago
    Quoted from jaydee49:

    sunlight, i had it outside for about five hours.

    sun?! what is that?

    2 weeks later
    #635 7 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    I appreciate it. If it was my money, I would take the hand out. Its not though, so I spent the money on the 2 sets of new guys (blackhawks vs redwings). Fingers crossed its a direct replacement!
    The goalies pull straight up too right? One of the goalies was really tough to pull on so I left it, the other was just a wire when I pulled it up. The wire went into the base and thats how it sat....kinda weird.

    They pull up, but there is a wire thing...mmm lemme see if I can find a pic

    EDIT:
    I know old chexx are differernt then the super. Superchexx has a pin behind you can take out and the goalie comes off. Old chexx I want to say you have to get under the ice to disconnect then it can be removed... If no one posts I'll look at my goalie when I get home, my chexx is at a friends house.....

    #638 7 years ago

    I just looked at my two spare goalies, they do just pull up. They also have a tiny hole for a "cotter pin" or some pin, but mine did not come with them. So just pull up, if you don't see a pin in them (between the legs)

    #640 7 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    You'll want to put in a cotter pin or the goalie will have a tendency to turn during play. The pin keeps them facing forward.

    Ya! Tiny hole though, I'll have to get new mini pins. I never even noticed it before. Now I'm curious if my original goalies have them as I remember they seemed odd to me when I pulled them up....

    #654 7 years ago
    Quoted from Backbone25:

    Hello hoping someone can help me out i researched this thread from the beginning and i saw it addressed somewhat 3 years ago but I haven't found a confirmation on my question... I am purchasing a new super chexx machine and don't want a split base unless I have to. I have a 32" door leading down my basement (31.5" opening after the doorjams)... can I make it fit? I called Chexx and the lady said I should buy the split base to be safe but looking at it I want to believe I can make it work... After the door I have 38" in width walking down my steps. Any insight would help I think lpeters82 had a similar door frame??

    I have a 32" door and yes the single base can fit (when separated from the dome). It has to go sideways (2 people) and you have to twist/turn but it will fit, given you have some space on the inside/outside of the doorway.

    #665 7 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    Another question, sorry guys. This is the ME ME ME thread lately.
    So I got the washers as well. How the hell do these things go on? If they go between the gear box and the ice surface, how do I get the post of the player through? It doesnt fit! I suppose I could drill the hole bigger, but that seems like an oversight.....what am I missing?

    Where did the players come from?

    The clear washer goes above the gear box, under the ice. Then you push the player through. Yes it is tight, new washers make it feel almost impossible but it works.

    #667 7 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    From ICE direct.
    It seems REALLY tight...glad i bought a few extras.

    oh ya. Well you are pushing a square object through a circular hole. After a few in/out's it gets easier. Remember these are on route so they don't want the player popping out. Freaked me out when I got new washers too!

    #681 7 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    I think that would drag the motion of the guys down a lot. My guys touch the ice a little. Maybe just paint the black on and add light grey lines to simulate it?

    Maybe could get away with 1 layer of electrical tape? but drag, wear etc and it isn't super sticky...

    #683 7 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    OK, so my goalie mechs and goalies went on great. Im not even sure I need the cotter pins they included or the screw I would have to buy. they dont turn and were very hard to push on. Do I need a washer for the goalie? If so....pssshhh too late. No way Im risking pulling those bastards off.
    I have a question about volume/sound. When I turn my game on, its at a set volume it seems. The volume pot did nothing. I had a spare volume pot laying around and when I compared them, they were almost exactly the same. Score! When I soldered the new one in though, nothing changed. Any ideas?
    I plan to do the whole wood/drill/press for the washers tonight, and hopefully wrap this project up so I can get to other things before my party. Thanks to all who have helped so far.

    I don't think my goalies had the washer..... yeah no pin/cotter on mine either, they stay, however mine is in a home use so not a big deal if it came off.

    Which chexx version do you have?
    chexx original
    super chexx early
    super chexx recent
    They each have different boards. Mmm wonder if someone over rode the volume or a component on the board failed.

    #685 7 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    My hockey game is a 1983 Sega Face Off. Same hard ware for the most part, different boards.

    do you have that MOOG board?

    #687 7 years ago

    Does your board look like a so?

    IMG_1552 (resized).jpgIMG_1552 (resized).jpg

    #692 7 years ago

    Interesting! Yeah when you get your manual, that should help. May want to scan some and we can all help. Should only be like 3 wires to the pot but there will be some components on the board side.

    #695 7 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    There are two wires to the pot....should there by 3?? Let me see if I can use the scanner here at work before I leave.

    Sorry it could be two, I was working on a potentiometer on my arduino recently and it was 3.

    My chexx is at a friends house but I have my manual. I can go take a peek.

    Looks like it might be the lower right of the schematic sp in/out?

    #697 7 years ago

    I don't know anyone that fixed chexx boards, but anyone that can do board work including yourself could see the part and schematic and replace caps, transistor, resistors etc. the schematic I think showed the parts in that section

    #700 7 years ago
    Quoted from IdahoRealtor:

    Ice (the manufacturer) fixes Chexx boards.

    From what I heard and such, they are shying away from original 83' boards. And chitownpinball has a non ice board.

    #702 7 years ago
    Quoted from jasonp:

    I hope not because they have mine as I type.....

    That was only what I had heard. I hope(d) they still fix them as it in theory is the only option left. Mine lit on fire...big ole ordeal. It is currently fixed but I had rob anthony fix it.

    Glad to hear they are still working on them!

    1 week later
    #706 7 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    You guys with a Blue chexx, I'm curious if your coin door volume pot will let you turn the sound down to Off. Mine is still loud when dialed down yet is in spec according to the schematics.

    nope. Mine was all the day down and was still very well heard. You may have to add a switch or cut the speaker :/ I got complaints with it being on route haha

    1 month later
    #714 6 years ago

    Oh good price

    #716 6 years ago
    Quoted from lpeters82:

    Yeah great price. Would be purchased in a hurry in my area.

    I would sell my chexx and get this super chexx for sure!

    However I have a project for the original chexx. Working on retro fitting the arduino as a plug n play replacement for the moog board.

    #719 6 years ago
    Quoted from roar:

    I'm working on doing the same thing with a raspberry pi! Are you going to use the existing 7 segment displays and shift registers or are you looking at designing your own PCB? I'm looking at doing my own PCB and 7 segment displays, I've got it working on the bench for the most part need to get back to working on PCB.

    So, not sure how long this project will take BUT my goal is. To get the arduino to drop into a chexx and replace the Moog board. I have the boston pinball upgraded score board. I do have the original still in a box.... The original uses shift registers and the boston board uses a newer chip that is cheaper/easier then the old 74 chip, so mmmm maybe both displays however the boston one may be even easier as you can just pass a number to those chips and they do the logic.

    Once I get the game back in my basement I can order the plugs and make harnesses etc to start testing the displays.

    #721 6 years ago

    I thought the silver collars under the playfield were just Allen heads.

    Congrats on getting one!

    2 weeks later
    #733 6 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    Weird. My Face Off will eject the puck automatically if it falls back in the hole. The boo button will cut the anthem and eject the puck at the start of the game though.

    I "think" the original games don't have the boo eject but the super chexx stuff does. Face off is based off the original chexx right?

    #736 6 years ago
    Quoted from Deez:

    How long does ICE usually take to ship parts? I ordered a bunch of parts for my game on Sat and they still haven't shipped. I've been spoiled by Amazon I suppose. Anyone have experience?

    I order from ICE a lot. is it in stock? Otherwise they ship usps so it can take 5-7 days.

    2 weeks later
    #741 6 years ago

    Hey chexx fans! I'm looking for a used but I'm okay shape ice. Before buying new. Let me know if you have any you'd sell. Thanks

    2 weeks later
    #750 6 years ago

    Anyone have any dome buffing tips to get it clear again?

    Reminds me I need to order ice, no luck on a nicer then mine used local.

    #753 6 years ago

    Perfect. Thanks guys. I did the 3m headlight kit, but still see swirls. I'm not s buffing expert and I bet my drill wasn't fast enough. I have a car detail friend that said he'd help. Just wanted to make sure!

    #755 6 years ago
    Quoted from latenite04:

    I would discuss it with your friend. The novus site doesn't recommend any buffing speed over 1000 rpm.
    https://www.novuspolish.com/tips.html

    OH really? ughhhhhh man the detail guys I spoke to said you want it fast so it creates "heat" to help "melt" the scratches away... at this point I should go by hand hahaha...mmm be one strong arm.

    4 weeks later
    #758 6 years ago
    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    I'm dying to know how you guys find these great FB deals. I'm a FB noob I guess

    I am not on FB but I know there are local garage sale groups.

    Quoted from dung:

    Now a member of the club. I bought one off fb and had fastenal ship it. Good news is it was cheap, bad news is it does not work. Worse news? It is running a Soccer CPU?
    Right now when I plug it in I get the digits on the scoreboard quickly set to zero. Then they randomly will change numbers after sitting at 0 for awhile. Then if you hit the start button the puck will eject, but that is it. I will try and get pics up later if anyone likes.

    Do you have an original chexx '83? Im betting your data harness and wires are badly grounded, cut and grounding out. If you go under the ice, the hole the original used for the data down to the cabinet was offset so it rubbed and cut open mine grounding it out. Caused some light melting on the CPU board too at the plug....

    #761 6 years ago

    Here is the odd two board

    IMG_3534 (resized).JPGIMG_3534 (resized).JPG

    4 weeks later
    #782 6 years ago

    So I went to fix one of the gearbox collars (rod came off the gearbox) and put new Ice on the game.....

    One played pulled off....well the player came up but the metal rod and square section stayed in the gearbox....ugh...

    Then went to unscrew the set screws on the collar...allen head on one was blown out. Sawed the screw so I could remove the collar, the threaded part stuck inside the collar. $20 a collar...nice.... Uffda! Luckily I bought a bunch of the new square set screws...No more stripped allen heads!

    If anyone has 1 USA 83' player to sell. I'd like to keep my set complete...

    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    Head light restoration kits and or take it to a head light restorer. I had a detail shop do mine and it turned out great. Still some deep scratches, but all the shallow ones buffed out. Look back a few pages for pics.

    I used the 3m headlight kit with a drill, left some swirl scratches... didn't like it. I had my car detail friend finish up the dome and it turned out nicer. You'll need like 1000, 2000, 3000 grit, wet sand the crap and take lots of time. It never comes out perfectly clear but man it is better

    #784 6 years ago

    Uhhh no, never heard of the next one. K bet it’s lcd

    1 week later
    #789 6 years ago

    I see an lcd but is that a goal replay clip?!?

    1 week later
    #800 6 years ago
    Quoted from taylor34:

    I've got a bunch of the original chexx players for sale if anyone is interested. USA vs Russia, all players are there, just a little beat up (only one physically broken though, he lost a leg).

    You looking to sell onesies or all? I just pulled all my players and one of the guys shafts broke in the gear box :/

    #805 6 years ago
    Quoted from Chitownpinball:

    Any more info on those LCD screen, Lights, and Replay upgrades? SUPER SWEET. Totally want.

    No joke right? Can't wait to see it!

    #808 6 years ago
    Quoted from meSz:

    Oh crappis does the PRO now mean Chexx is going to have different models

    Probably like the iPhone, the pro will be the lcd and the plain super Chexx is the current unit

    #812 6 years ago
    Quoted from taylor34:

    From what I heard, they didn't have enough parts to make the old electronics anymore, so they had to redo everything a result. Seems unlikely they would have an old style scoreboard anymore unless they redid it with new hardware.
    I'm hoping for an upgrade path but it seems unlikely. I think they could make a ton of money if they did.

    Problem is letting someone other then them upgrade is a help support nightmare.....

    #820 6 years ago
    Quoted from pinchamp:

    Just purchased a 2003 CANADA vs USA Chexx bubble hockey. Kids are loving it.
    Everything seems to function correct except the scoreboard on one side is flickering a bit. The ribbon cable and wires look really sketchy.
    Also the shots do not register unless there is a goal scored.
    Can anyone point me in the direction of what I might have to do to fix the flickering click and the score tally?
    Also is there a way to polish or fix the dome? It looks pretty marked up on the inside it seems...

    the connection inside the score board that goes to power/data the side flickering should be checked out, could be a bad connection in the score board or under the ice... Where are you seeing the ribbon cable/wires look sketchy?

    Shots on goal are not registering on one goal? Check the magnet sensors under the ice. It is the long rectange that goes in front of the goalie, one of mine was bad when I got my 83'. You can order them from ICE if you need a replacement. I would swap them and see if the issues follows.

    I just had my dome buffed, but the 3m headlight kit made it worse. I ended up having my car detailer do mine. mmm it doesn't look clear like a new dome, but the big scratches are out with nice little ones. So you really have to take your time and buff from low to super high 2000+ grit wet sanding to get it nice. I only did the outside but I see some on the inside too. At this point I'm leaving it, the ~$450 dome shipped isn't worth the price just yet....

    #823 6 years ago

    What type of glue or adhesive should I use to reattach the puck sensor on the metal?

    image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

    #827 6 years ago
    Quoted from latenite04:

    The original stuff seems like an rtv silicone, but gorilla tape has been holding temp ones on mine for a few months.

    Ahh. Thanks! I have loctight silicone from a project I was thinking of using or rtv is a good option. Be nice to get it off at a later date :-p

    #833 6 years ago
    Quoted from Phatchit:

    I have a 83' that I'm almost done bringing back to life . I need the original board gone through and fixed . Does anyone do this or have a old board that works . I've already bought the upgraded scoreboard .

    the original 83' had the MOOG board, all in one. So there is no ability to use an upgraded sound board. do you have a picture of the board you are talking about?

    EDIT: OH MY case of the Monday's.... I didn't read your post. You said scoreboard not sound board....wow.
    WHich score board? the one from boston pinball or the ICE one? I have the boston pinball one. LOVE IT.

    #847 6 years ago
    Quoted from Phatchit:

    Yea luckily , everything was working except the scoreboard . I have a few toasty parts in that section . Sound , puck eject worked fine

    AHHH I forgot to post. I had this issue and can maybe help you. Let me get stuff in order/time and I'll post up.

    #848 6 years ago
    Quoted from Phatchit:

    Here you go . Everything was working but the scoreboard . The section looks burnt . I also was curious what kind of diodes are used on this board . I can't see any markings on them

    So somewhere back in this thread. I had a issue with my scoreboard ribbon cable (data that is gray). THe main issue is that when it goes from the scoreboard under the ice, the hole in the top to the base, is not aligned for it to just drop in. It is off center, so the cable has to bend/fold to make it in the hole. HOWEVER, it usually just became cut and then grounded out on the edge of the hole, or the player rod wore through the ribbon. This grounding and break would then burn the connector on the PCB/motherboard. Once that happened well...you could wreck the board or like mine, they made some hacks to make it "work" however the ribbon was still not fixed under the ice.

    So in your pics above the gray ribbon cable is not plugged in on the MOOG board. You can get new ones from maybe ICE? but I got mine from Boston Pinball. I also order from digikey or Great plains, a new molex connector for the MOOG board. When swapping the connectors, you will want to clean off any carbon or it will act as a wire and bridge more connections or start a fire....don't ask. I also see one of the power connectors on the moog looks a tad brown. I'd check that out as well. You may want to remove the board, clean with rubbing alcohol to get any burn/carbon off just in case.

    THere is a manual I ordered from ICE for my game but the one from the pin repair site works too. You can see the pinout of the data ribbon as it carries power/ground and data for the shift registers (scores). I can also find my pics..... from before...If you need any more pics I can take them tonight before I button my game up and put the ice on. I almost thought about drilling a new hole for the ribbon, but currently I have the new ribbon make a fold over and tape that down so the rod doesnt touch the cable.

    I also have added more wire management under the ice for all the sensors so they do not get rubbed by the player rods.

    First pic of my data cable plug
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-super-chexx-bubble-hockey/page/8#post-2881831

    boston pinball led score board!
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-super-chexx-bubble-hockey/page/8#post-2971202

    Hole and ribbon under ice
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-super-chexx-bubble-hockey/page/9#post-3045387

    data ribbon connector
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-super-chexx-bubble-hockey/page/9#post-3046010

    Where the connector lit on fire
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-super-chexx-bubble-hockey/page/9#post-3080452

    Ended up taking this to MGC and Rob Anthony some how got it working. There is a large hole in the PCB from the fire but the game works. I suppose I may want a replacement used MOOG as backup but I hope to have time with a baby and winter coming to get a arduino to run the entire chexx. We shall see.

    Hope this helps keep another 83' chexx alive!

    #857 6 years ago

    I hear the ice painted guys hold up well. Custom ones need some clear to help, but yeah they’re I’ll get beat up and flake maybe...

    #860 6 years ago
    Quoted from pinchamp:

    Neither side registers shots. The ribbon cable is the long one connecting to the board. Wires really thin and a couple wires are the left are just cut and don’t go anywhere. Looks like maybe a hack job on replacing the connector... and to get it to work I had to move the connector so the right slot is over one space and no pin into it.

    The ribbon cable is that gray data cable, 8 pins maybe? I can open mine up and take pics. You probably want a new cable and new molex connector for the board to solder on.

    #866 6 years ago

    Just got my new ice and goals on my 83’ Chexx. Had league tonight. Man felt good to play Chexx again!!!! Only issue I had was (not sure if it was because of uneven floor) when a goal would happen, the puck eject may take 2-3 times to fire on try 2 it would award a goal to USA. Always USA. If I shook the game it would wiggle he puck and eject fine at each goal. So I think my floor isn’t level but that is an odd issue.

    AF7D8A30-E775-41DD-97B8-091854916509 (resized).jpegAF7D8A30-E775-41DD-97B8-091854916509 (resized).jpeg

    #869 6 years ago
    Quoted from meSz:

    Actually you want to check the puck chute! If the puck is hitting one side of the chute then you need to adjust the ejector arm! Inspect the Ejector Arm to see if it's bent or if anything is in the chute! If you have a manual, pull it out as there is instructions for correcting this issue!

    Quoted from GRB1959:

    Hi NV,
    As stated in the response above by meSz you should check out page 14 in the manual from the URL below.
    Gord
    https://www.icegame.com/images/document/e8d5f310-25da-4ecb-bb0a-7e41ab3847d0/manuals/Super-Chexx-Service-Manual_A.pdf

    Dang, yes I should of checked/thought of the eject arm. Thanks! I'll have to remove all the guys and check that out.

    So I haven't played my chexx in 6-12 months, I had one player that when he would get his stick stuck on another, and you spun the rod, it "clicked" you know the teeth still moving. Is that worn, or is that normal so it doesn't break? I have replaced 1-2 gear boxes but that was super worn and not just some noise as I know they do slip a little?

    #872 6 years ago
    Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

    When a player starts slipping when taking a shot or making a pass, that’s when I know it’s time to change a gear box. It is usually Big Stick, the right winger. His stick is long and gets tied up in the left defensmans legs.
    PS. Chicks dig Big Stick! He’s a fan favorite of the ladies. Lots of women in the stands wearing #18 sweaters. Haha!

    Quoted from meSz:

    It's normal as it keeps it from stripping the gear! As Blitzburgh99 states .....................

    Perfect! That is a great test then. He only slips when stuck, not shooting. Awesome! Thanks

    And I just realized, when the puck didn't eject up but scored, you guys were right. I bet the puck wasn't seated correctly, eject arm goes up, puck rolls up the ramp, triggers the magnet switches to score and rolls back down.

    #874 6 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    Some of my guys are just plain floaty. The gears seem ok, just the players themselves have a little float in their movement. Like you can twist ever so slightly before they spin. Do their stems get worn, rounded?

    Could be play/gap in the gears getting bigger before catching. Have you inspected the gear box yet? Or are you thinking all the players feel that way?

    #878 6 years ago
    Quoted from Bing_Party:

    Just got notified that my pro is being shipped Nov 6 so they are moving in time for the holidays

    I can’t wait until someone gets one! Please post video and thoughts on it!

    2 weeks later
    #918 6 years ago
    Quoted from blkhwks19:

    New to the forum, though interested in picking up a Chexx/Super Chexx. Khabbi, yours still available? Do you have more pics/details? And I'm near Chicago, so would it be possible at all to have it shipped?

    I swear one was on CL in/near Chicago or Madison recently. Super Chexx about ~$1800

    #947 6 years ago
    Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

    I think we are all hoping that it’s just a different ROM chip and a new scoreboard to modify our older units....

    It shouldn't be. The old board would not be able to push the video.

    I suppose you could buy the board and new score board and get it working but you'll be at like $1000 bucks.... which...not sure is worth it.

    #964 6 years ago
    Quoted from tatman9999:

    How much could I list a super Chexxs. Working 100%. New dome. Has Blackhawks/ Bruns . Custom powder coated Red/black/gold. It is the 1983 blue base that was painted. I am only selling because I bought the new pro. Was thinking $1500

    back 1 page (19) user blkhwks19 was looking for one!

    #981 6 years ago
    Quoted from Chris1199s:

    I'm not 100% sure and I did not notice it until I looked at the photos later but I believe there may be an SD card on the actual board which might allow future upgrades for things like sounds and anthems?

    That is an sd card....someone should dump it

    That board looks GREAT! Very nicely updated, simple and the psu looks nice too! I kind of want to upgrade my PSU to the new style for size/weight.

    1 week later
    #1011 6 years ago

    Up hill both ways and you have to wait until Xmas?? congrats you’ll love it!

    #1024 6 years ago

    If you use leds, you should be fine. Pretty low amp draw. What were you going to use for logic to run them?

    #1036 6 years ago
    Quoted from roar:

    There were some pictures of the boards a ways back but I don’t recall seeing an SD card or any form of storage... wondering if anyone else did... or if there may be indentifiable roms that could be dumped. There may be an opportunity to swap assets if there is some sort of accessible storage on the boards.

    Someone was kind enough to post pics and there was a microsd card on the board

    https://images.pinside.com/b/fe/bfeebaf02bbe82cfef9fe8f20453ab46001405f7/resized/large/bfeebaf02bbe82cfef9fe8f20453ab46001405f7.jpeg

    If ICE was smart, and by the board design it looks pretty good, they would lock/encrypt the sd card, similar to a GPS map update. However until someone tries this is all unknown! I would suggest a linux pc first, dump the image and then start checking it out, even a hex editor... if someone could just dump an image and share it, many without the game yet could try to see about changes etc.

    #1039 6 years ago
    Quoted from taylor34:

    Why? It's not like the software is good in anything else. Leaving it where the sound and image files are changeable would lead to increased sales.

    Knock offs could be made, licensing and proprietary code.... it isn’t open source so it should be encrypted if they had any brains :/

    #1042 6 years ago
    Quoted from taylor34:

    I'm sure their old software for the past 35 years isn't encrypted, so all of a sudden it's a problem now?

    proprietary boards and burned roms. While rom editing and burning is left to a small few, then owners of a chexx...it is a small market. Look at pinball, that took how long to get to edit the roms and now spike etc. I'm surprised stern hasn't sent a cease and desist to the browser software. In the end it doesn't matter what you or I think. It is their copy written code and they should try to protect it.

    #1045 6 years ago
    Quoted from taylor34:

    I write embedded software for a living. This isn't some game that can be stolen and given to a million other people like Battlefront, it's software that only runs on a certain board for one purpose. It has no value outside of that game, which is why all pinball software is freely downloadable, it has no purpose without the software. There is a high cost for incorporating all kinds of encryption in projects like this, it causes a lot more work for developers, support staff, and end users.

    Well you can ask them if it is important to you Until someone finally snags that SD card out, we have to wait.

    1 week later
    #1053 6 years ago
    Quoted from out_of_order:

    I work at a location where the bulb just went out. Does anybody know if home depot carries them and what I should use as a replacement. Thanks for your help

    Which model? Super Chexx or original Chexx?

    #1054 6 years ago

    83-87/88 use two small bulbs: #1156 lamps

    88- super use a pl-7 11 watt fluorescent U bulb

    I have an 83 but upgraded through bostonpinball to get the led based score board. Expensive but oooohhhh so worth it.

    ACE3ECE1-B2FE-4022-BCAE-246A5B9ADA1E (resized).jpegACE3ECE1-B2FE-4022-BCAE-246A5B9ADA1E (resized).jpeg
    BE7BC547-4BA7-4102-9F6A-7FF12BD3C07F (resized).jpegBE7BC547-4BA7-4102-9F6A-7FF12BD3C07F (resized).jpeg

    #1057 6 years ago

    IMO $1500-2000 depending on condition.

    #1059 6 years ago
    Quoted from paynemic:

    How long from order to arrival? I’m wondering about getting one by New Years

    I swear people were saying 2 weeks ish? But if you want it by then and there are holiday days coming I’d call and ask asap

    1 week later
    #1070 6 years ago

    cherryandblue so glad you found it! what loose wire was it?

    for sure sounded like some wires from the top, not plugged in the board in the base.

    #1084 6 years ago
    Quoted from deljaso:

    Thanks. I see the number stickers available as parts on superchexx.com and the guide to creating stickers on gameroominfo.com. Down the road, I will probably add names/numbers at some point.
    This game is exciting and I am predicting it will get 1000% more play than my pinball machine, and probably twice as much as the pool table. For those with full game rooms, what other games get the highest use? I probably have room for one more machine, and unfortunately a full sized arcade basketball shooting game won't fit.

    Do you have many people over to play frequently?

    I had a chexx, bbh world and then pinball and if there are enough good players of chexx and bbh they get used, otherwise they just sit around. However if you have kids and company over a lot, a 2 player bbh can get some work in

    #1098 6 years ago

    Can extract bins or use a hex editor... I did a lot of that with ps2 games but it’s been so long!

    #1101 6 years ago
    Quoted from DForce7800:

    That sounds like it's way above my pay grade!
    I did, however, change the [Future] anthem song (which is the USA Anthem by default), with a new WAV file; a clip of the Hungarian Sabres Dance song. Yes, it is a pretty annoying, unless you are a Sabres fan, I guess.

    That is awesome! Well if you can make an image of the Sd card and share it via google drive or drop box, I’ll take a peak

    #1103 6 years ago
    Quoted from ShorePins:

    Finally got power to my Chexx. Still have the dome off of it doing polishing and waiting for gear boxes (due in Tuesday).
    The board is a 5/8/1989 build 2nd generation main PCB. When I power it up the sound is a quick blurb of mixed sounds and then quiet. I do not have the display hooked up or the switches at this point.
    What should I expect to happen for this board?
    Does anyone have the schematics or better yet a PDF of the whole manual for this era machine?
    Thanks,
    Kevin

    lots of diy info
    http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/chexx.htm

    you can also order the manual from Ice
    P/N: SC944
    SERVICE MANUAL (SUPER CHEXX)
    $10.95
    https://www.icegame.com/category/22/super-chexx#parts

    Do you have a chexx from the 1988-1993 with the small board?

    during boot my original 83 chexx will make a blurb sound while power up. This is normal.

    #1105 6 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    Just a thought in case the curiosity is getting to you- even with no switches connected, you could probably jump the credit wires and see if the game starts up.

    HA yes that would trigger an original chexx. either drop a coin or simulate and click that switch.

    #1108 6 years ago

    Looking over the sd card, sounds are literally just replace a wav file. The movies are locked into bin files. The hardware may have the key to unencrypted those, still poking around.

    #1110 6 years ago
    Quoted from paynemic:

    Wondering if the audio is file names or folders that are calling out. In other words, could you put a couple audio files in the “boo” folder and have it randomly select? (Pinsound does this)

    I don’t think so, the audio clips are just labeled
    Wav1
    Wav2
    Wav3 etc

    No description :/

    However there are a lot and there are crowds, cheers etc so if you had live or different crowd noises it could be pretty cool

    #1112 6 years ago
    Quoted from Ookpik:

    Looking for a Super Chexx manual with a date of 11-1-88 on the front cover.
    Please check through your extra manuals and let me know if you have one!

    I think Chexx was 83-88 with moog board
    88-93 Chexx with updated board and 93+ was super Chexx.

    I can check my Chexx manual to see if they talk about the 88-93 board

    #1114 6 years ago
    Quoted from AAAV8R:

    Is the removable SD card only on the newest models? I didn’t see an SD card on the MB in my Machine. Is there any way to modify sounds/anthem on older models?

    The brand new pro model with lcd screen.

    The only other way would be to add an arduino or pi to play after a goal aka separate mod or hack the rom...

    #1116 6 years ago
    Quoted from cherryandblue:

    On the new pro model. The pins in between goalies pads? Purpose ? Did you remove them ? Is it for shipping purposes only ?

    the cotter pin? That is to keep the goalie secured to the metal post he is on. I would leave it, but my 83 chexx didn't have it. Friction may keep them on, but having to remove all those bolts to open the dome...ugh pita. I'd leave it on.

    #1121 6 years ago
    Quoted from cherryandblue:

    Yeah, the cotter pin...I thought it should be in but what I'm noticing is the puck is getting chewed up rather quickly because of it. That has to be the reason. My old Chexx which doesn't have the cotter pins had the puck last forever unblemished.

    you could always remove the cotter pins. If it is in a home environment it won't be as big of an issue. On route a tech will barely get out to fix the game so the cotter pin makes sense.

    #1123 6 years ago
    Quoted from latenite04:

    I was looking at the ice parts page today and they have the lcd from the scoreboard up. The picture looks like there is another sd card on the back of the scoreboard screen. I wonder what's on that one. Maybe some day someone will dump it.

    mmmmmm....good find. Could have video or firmware/os for that board.

    1 week later
    #1151 6 years ago
    Quoted from TimBoch:

    It's not a chex, but how many have the Fighting Sioux

    Ha! Rock on!

    I’ve been tempted to paint mine umd bulldogs vs the “fighting hawks” :-p

    #1162 6 years ago
    Quoted from dirtbag66:

    Just joined the club tonight! Purchased a generic red vs blue, split base model and now the waiting begins.
    Anything I need to know before it gets shipped? Do they seriously make you take it off the truck yourself if you opted for the curbside delivery service?
    Can't wait!

    Congrats!

    From my understanding curbside delivery is they drop the pallets at the end of your driveway.

    #1164 6 years ago
    Quoted from paynemic:

    The delivery dude has always helped me get it inside. Even on pinball machines, etc

    Every delivery guy is different, but it is always nice when you get a good one! I haven’t had a bad delivery yet

    2 weeks later
    #1180 6 years ago
    Quoted from 52brezelfenster:

    Hi There,
    Can anyone recommend a repair person that can fix a scoreboard from a 1st gen blue base chexx?
    My scoreboard has a couple of issues going on. The digital scores show random numbers and scroll out of sequence, and the 3 period lights flash out of control. Happens on both sides of the scoreboard. If possible, I'd like to keep it 100% original and not replace with the Boston Pinball replacement.
    Thank you,
    Dustin

    Have you verified the main board vs score board issue? I would check the ribbon cable to make sure that isn't being cut open by the hole in the top section transversing to the base. Also make sure the connector the ribbon plugs into on the main board isn't burned (common). It uses shift registers to push the numbers up. If all of the scores to the same thing, probably main board issue, if a single display acts up, score board itself may have some funkyness.

    2 weeks later
    #1184 6 years ago
    Quoted from chefbenito:

    Hey all - I just bought a Super Chexx that needs some cosmetic and mechanical work. I'm going to start exploring a bit, and see what parts I might need.
    A couple questions to start:
    1) Are the rods supposed to be loose (wiggle within the inserts), or should they be more secure (like a foosball table)?
    2) For those of you who've painted your players, how did you strip the old paint from the players?

    The rods do wiggle.

    As for painting, not sure! But lots of people here will know!

    2 weeks later
    #1198 6 years ago

    Looking to buy 1 standard length stick player. Can be any team as they will get painted.

    I had 2 sets of teams and when installing new ice, one player broke off the post, he is now turned into an ornament but want one player to complete the set and have them painted as the local university team.

    1 week later
    #1206 6 years ago

    Anyone want some used ice cheap?

    Otherwise I am not sure why I’d keep it out of the garbage :/

    8458682B-64F5-4A95-9784-1A007AB9C9A4 (resized).jpeg8458682B-64F5-4A95-9784-1A007AB9C9A4 (resized).jpeg

    09499F05-2382-451D-B572-BC5F3C648437 (resized).jpeg09499F05-2382-451D-B572-BC5F3C648437 (resized).jpeg

    B848FD16-7168-493D-AB03-DB53BDFF1DBD (resized).jpegB848FD16-7168-493D-AB03-DB53BDFF1DBD (resized).jpeg

    D371DDB4-4656-4FD7-9C44-667AC3FDF7D6 (resized).jpegD371DDB4-4656-4FD7-9C44-667AC3FDF7D6 (resized).jpeg

    #1208 6 years ago
    Quoted from lpeters82:

    Are you coming to MGC? That looks a bit whiter then mine.

    99% sure I will be! I have it currently inside the box the new ice came in. Plays fine but the crack at the goalie would need to be taped or fixed.

    Now if I could get someone going to mgc to have 1 player for sale :-p used and beat is fine, it will be painted.

    #1219 6 years ago

    The sound replacement is open to everyone already I thought? Just have to dig in your Sd card

    3 weeks later
    #1251 6 years ago
    Quoted from WannabeWizard:

    Wanted to buy a Super Chexx Pro $1700 for nice used or $2700 for new Pro, or $3300 for new Pro with custom players.

    Where do they have used pro’s fs? That’s $1k off new and the game just released this past Christmas. If that is the case, that’s a great deal on a pro used and new players are only ~$99 a team.

    #1253 6 years ago
    Quoted from bowz:

    Yeah, but they don’t have numbers. I actually bought the USA/USSR version from them, but I’ve got to think there’s better options out there.

    well ICE's painted guys are the best usually for the price/time. You can pay someone or do it yourself, but you'll want to CC them a few layers. ALso the numbers are just slide decals so not too hard, but if you've never done it, it can be time consuming. There were a few people who were doing player mods etc, but I don't know if anyone has a list or remembers off the top of their head? If you could find a local warhammer painter, or shop that knows them, they would be a good local starting point.

    1 week later
    #1257 6 years ago
    Quoted from lpeters82:

    Thank you. Huge difference on my Chexx.

    Glad it worked!

    #1260 6 years ago
    Quoted from lpeters82:

    If anyone wants that yellow ice that I removed, please let me know. If not I'll likely just toss it into my back room as a backup.

    I wonder if doing that whitening like an snes would work?

    #1262 6 years ago
    Quoted from lpeters82:

    It does not. I've tried three attempts with Salon Care. Once with a UV light and twice with sunlight.

    Oh dang :/

    #1272 6 years ago
    Quoted from pacman11:

    Anyone have an older dome that is crack free they want to send my way, don't really mind scratches? I picked up a project game that I am trying to fix up. PM me for details.. Thanks

    I totally would, but a new dome is like $400 shipped :s So I've been holding off on a new dome.

    #1274 6 years ago
    Quoted from pacman11:

    Yeah, if it was for me I’d probably buy a new dome for it but I am not keeping it I am fixing it up and giving to my uncle who is a huge Hockey fan as a gift for helping me out..

    Well, I found someone to take my old ice, so there should be people with old parts! Maybe post a location and see if anyone has one used or on klov as well.

    #1279 6 years ago
    Quoted from pacman11:

    Anyone have an older dome that is crack free they want to send my way, don't really mind scratches? I picked up a project game that I am trying to fix up. PM me for details.. Thanks

    So how bad is the dome, or is it missing? If you are good or know someone good at buffing, you can wet sand until it is decent. I had my car detailer spiff mine up.

    #1286 6 years ago

    I think the dome is $150-200 to ship from ice, the ice itself was easily $50 to ship. Idk if the dome is on a pallet or just over padded cardboard box

    1 week later
    #1290 5 years ago
    Quoted from chefbenito:

    Can anyone give me a good image of the Canada and/or USA decals that go on the original Super Chexx base? I can't find a good photo to make a decal from - ICE also doesn't have these.
    I am frustrated because I waited for 75 days for an arcade decal place to send me these , and they gave me the runaround until I finally cancelled the sale today

    Quoted from latenite04:

    I've been looking for the Canada one for a while. If you get a good image please let me know. My US decal has some scuffs but I can try to get you a picture.

    Try this?

    https://www.thisoldgame.com/misc-parts/chexx-hockey-art-restoration-decal-kit-

    #1305 5 years ago
    Quoted from pacman11:

    If it’s a super Chexx you can adjust it. I saw a YouTube video on it last week. I’ll see it I can find the video again
    I just moved my Super Chexx and when I plugged it in nothing works now.

    Make sure something else works in that outlet. Then check the main line fuse.

    Or did you take the top off? Then you’ll want to check the ribbon cable and others

    #1307 5 years ago

    I have a Chexx and mine was in the bottom of the cab in or near the main power unit.

    #1311 5 years ago
    Quoted from pacman11:

    Only fuse I see is the 1/2amp fuse on the board, is this the main fuse?

    So i don’t remember what a super Chexx inside looks like. But from your pic it looks like the metal cover those green grounds go to, that may be the cover for the transformer etc

    Here is what a Chexx looks like. The big metal box in the base is where that is housed. There should be a fuse inside of it. Remember to test uses with a DMM and not just a visual inspection

    2223E2C8-0494-4E11-B209-6FFEFE961723 (resized).jpeg2223E2C8-0494-4E11-B209-6FFEFE961723 (resized).jpeg

    #1313 5 years ago

    Does the power cord from the wall go right into the main pcb?

    Geez I think it does. Is that fuse you found working?

    #1319 5 years ago
    Quoted from pacman11:

    What a weird design for a fuse. Not easy to get at and you have to remove the board to replace it. Replaced fuse and everything is working now. Thanks for the help!

    Freakin sweet!!! Glad you got it and props to latenite for the good tip on the fuse holder!

    1 week later
    #1327 5 years ago

    Same as meSz said. Make sure that there isnt a mecahnical hang up. If not, is the coil staying active? That could cause some serious burn. Could be a bad transistor if so.

    #1331 5 years ago

    So there had to be prior issues as it looks like new wire/ends on the wires to the solenoid. Also the black looks crispy near the connectors? Do you feel/hear the coil staying electrified/held while the arm is staying up? or are the wires reversed?

    2 weeks later
    #1341 5 years ago

    Just to cover bases

    What are the dip switches or settings for games set at?

    During other periods, does the game work correctly? Like register the puck scoring, knowing the puck is needing to be ejected etc

    I have the manual, so could start working on checking to see how the schematics work

    1 month later
    #1360 5 years ago

    These things are pretty tough. You could wrap the dome in a moving blanket to keep the dome from getting scratched and the handles coming oit. Then strap the base to anchors and be off

    #1365 5 years ago

    Drill drill drill drill!

    #1390 5 years ago

    you can try some 3m super 77, if the decal is not clear, not sure if this dries cloudy or not. But I used it to keep stickers on ramps etc

    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Super-77-Multipurpose-Spray-Adhesive/?N=5002385+3293242460&rt=rud

    #1392 5 years ago

    Ohhh it was a window decal? Ya that wont cling to much but glass. I think water slide decals are what you are going to need, correct me if I am wrong, I have not done any but know people that have.

    #1394 5 years ago
    Quoted from lpeters82:

    Water slide decals would be the best option for anything except for very small white details. I'm sure there is a better option then window clings, but it does work. It's just very hard to get them to adhere to the figure. I was lazy and only tried one adhesive though, so perhaps there is an option out there that would make the job much easier. Perhaps even a super glue, since it's essentially plastic to plastic.

    Mmmmm I’ll have to ask a friend that did it what he used

    #1397 5 years ago

    Have you read over this?

    http://gameroominfo.com/2017/10/17/putting-numbers-names-chexx-bubble-hockey-players/

    I know it isn't solid white, but the outline of a white would be a good compromise.

    #1399 5 years ago
    Quoted from lpeters82:

    I did. I wouldn't have worked for my case, but would work for many.

    What is different about yours? I have zero idea about painting and decals so just asking to know

    1 month later
    #1404 5 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    So a friend of mine has the SEGA knockoff, has had it for years. He never bolts his bubble down because the puck is always getting stuck (he yanks it out with a screwdriver). Finally while i was over there fixing a pinball issue, I went "This is ridiculous he has to do this all the time". So I watched the puck roll down with the ice off, and noticed sometimes the puck would roll right past the solenoid, and it wouldn't have momentum to roll back in position. So I pulled off each chute, cut a piece of green scotchguard to lift it up at the end a little (it's all I had with me), bolted it back down, and now there's a small drop on each side where the puck lands right in the center everytime. If anyone else has this issue, I suggest trying it.

    Yup, that is my issue. Puck rolls past the chute most scores. Mmm so just raise the end of the ramp at the chute?

    3 weeks later
    #1407 5 years ago
    Quoted from zimmer62:

    Can someone share the SD card dump from the Pro with me? Also... has anyone looked over the SD card that's in the scoreboard?

    Might be better in the pro chexx thread

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/superchexx-pro-owners-club

    3 weeks later
    #1435 5 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Yes, the puck will clunk into the pocket between chutes right in the middle of the solenoid arm loop. You don't need to raise it a lot, just enough for the puck to stop and not continue rolling. Stick whatever you have underneath (paper, wood, foam), anything about an 1/8" thick and the width of the chute.
    I remember as a kid playing these new having this same issue, and I'm amazed nobody play tested them to figure out what's going on down there.

    I still need to do this! My employees complain about the puck not being ejected. and I know exactly what it is! I just don't want to take the ice off....ugh

    2 weeks later
    #1456 5 years ago
    Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

    Tape ordered. How tough is it to remove, if necessary?

    Razor and goo gone and it will come but will take some elbow grease. VHB is the best bonding tape you can get. We have hung commercial soap dispensers with it so a beer should be easy

    1 week later
    #1461 5 years ago
    Quoted from Mojosan:

    Anyone removed the SD card and looked at the contents?
    I’m wondering how difficult to replace some of the sounds.

    someone did in the chexx pro thread. I opened the image and I think it was just mp3's so i want to say it would be "easy"

    1 month later
    #1475 5 years ago

    At the NY NY arcade

    87AD5B7D-1686-4CBC-874B-4D0C22320735 (resized).jpeg87AD5B7D-1686-4CBC-874B-4D0C22320735 (resized).jpeg
    #1481 5 years ago

    With how chexx keeps things the same, I would assume removal is the same as before. With new washers the players are hard to remove.

    #1483 5 years ago
    Quoted from cherryandblue:

    Right...I saw that video and have changed guys in past on older chexx model...they didn't have plastic washer in them so it was simple. This is a new PRO machine and the washer is present on every players. So I'm wondering if anyone else has tried. Thank you for looking for me. I appreciate it.

    The washer is supposed to be on each player. You’re pulling a square out of a circle, hold the ice and pull like crazy. On old games it’s easier as the washer has been worn.

    3 weeks later
    #1490 5 years ago
    Quoted from zimma89:

    I have a 2000's bud light super chexx and my scoreboard just stopped working anybody know why this would happen and how to fix???

    Does the bulb still light up?

    You’ll have to check the plug/ribbon cable on the main board. It’s on the opposite door of the coin door. See if it’s burnt or a fuse blew. If not take the ice off and see if the ribbon cable was cut open by the players and hole to cabinet. That should of been fixed by super chexx but good to check.

    #1492 5 years ago
    Quoted from zimma89:

    Yes the main light is on...Where would the fuse be ? On main board?

    This site will be of big help

    http://pinrepair.com/arcade/chexx.htm

    There should be a fuse on the main board, but I’m not sure what it covers.

    2 weeks later
    #1508 5 years ago
    Quoted from WindRaidor:

    Original Chexx hockey owner with a puck ejection issue. I’ve tried replacing the puck already. What happens is the solenoid does fire but it take about 4-6 fires to get the puck ejected. Should I try and find a replacement solenoid or should I get the amazon replacement that is meant for a super Chexx machine? That is probably my main question right there, will the super Chexx ejector work in an original Chexx machine?

    What’s probably happening is the puck isn’t dropping into the middle. I have the same issue and in a post someone added spacers (washers) to raise the ramps so the puck would roll and stay in the middle. If I find it I’ll post it but it is in this thread. I still need to fix mine so I do need to find it :-p

    1 week later
    #1519 5 years ago
    Quoted from shumard76:

    I just bought a blue base Chexx and was wondering if anyone has instructions on how to install a free play button? Thanks

    If you have the original chexx, there is no free play per say. So I installed a quarter button on the coin door from someone off Klov (has a quarter pic) and you wore the button to the coin switch.

    http://www.easycoinup.com/

    1 month later
    #1569 5 years ago
    Quoted from Vegas12:

    Anyone had the LCD scoreboard board go out completely while everything else work great? The overhead light works, as do the sounds, call outs, oh-sensors, etc... but the LCD scoreboard does not light up at all... no period, no scores, no shots, nothing

    Need to clarify, are you talking chexx pro with lcd? Or the old chexx/superchexx with the 7segment displays for scores and led periods ?

    I however would say it could be the plug coming undone on either end. At the scoreboard or the game board inside the base. I’d reseat those and visually check for burn marks

    #1578 5 years ago
    Quoted from ralphs007:

    Thanks,now I need to do a little research,into which model to get. I have a small table version that my my son in law and I enjoy playing,but this would take it to the next level !

    I think they only sell the pro (lcd) version now. But if it will be home use only, you can save money going home version

    1 month later
    #1609 4 years ago

    And the ice ones seem to hold up nicely

    #1620 4 years ago
    Quoted from kinzebac:

    I am having a problem with the puck not rolling down to the middle after a goal is scored. I have taken the game apart and cleaned the ramps, but it still get stuck. Do I simply need to get a new puck or is it more than that?

    do you have an original chexx?

    Bah someone posted the issue and fix. My original chexx does this as well. He installed washers as spacers to make sure when the puck rolls down, it doesn't jump/hop the other side.

    #1624 4 years ago
    Quoted from ChestRockwell:

    Hi All! I'm so happy to have found this community, tons of great information here. This looked to be the best place to post this, but if there is another place that would be better, please do let me know.
    I have an original CX-83 Chexx machine that has been in my family since the 80s. Unfortunately it has very much seen better days but we're working on restoring it to its former glory. The machine powers up, the game starts, the puck pops out. One of the goals and "ooohh" sensors works. The scoreboard is not working, but the light is, so I've ordered a new ribbon cable and am hoping that fixes it.
    The biggest issue we have is that some of the wiring under the ice is frayed or completely severed. Primarily both boo/eject buttons and one of the goal sensors are not operational.
    Does anyone have any suggestions of where we can get an original wire harness kit for this machine? I spoke with I.C.E. and they only carry Super Chexx and above, not the original Chexx machine. Their suggestion to me was to rewire from scratch, which we are open to trying, but would ideally prefer to swap in a new harness if possible. If not, any suggestions you folks may have on how to rebuild the harness from scratch would be greatly appreciated! We do have the original wiring diagrams but have minimal electrical experience.
    Thank you and if anyone needs more information please do let me know.

    I had frayed wires. Replaced the ribbon cable but honestly just running new wire isn’t a big deal. A new harness isn’t needed. If it is just at the hole to the base, just splice it and cover the hole edge. I also cable managed so the wires and ribbon were kept lower than the player rods

    1 month later
    #1648 4 years ago
    Quoted from shumard76:

    I have a 1983 Chexx with a fried pcb board, where the scoreboard cable plugs into (top 2 pins) and also the U8 IC. Any hope for repairing this board? From what I am hearing from repair guys the answer is no. Talking to Chexx mods about their upgrade, but what would it take (and cost) to convert to a super chexx with a new board and scoreboard if that is possible? Just looking at my options to weigh the costs. Thanks[quoted image]

    Mine came like this. Remove the connect, CLEAN, the burn (I didn’t) and install a new connector and any fixes. And you’ll be set. Mine blew a fire ball and I had rob Anthony fix it at mgc... he saved the board but was astonished it worked

    1 year later
    #2630 3 years ago

    Some parts for sale on fb
    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3565151816917088

    Spring Grove, IL
    Posted in the group: Midwest Pinball and Arcade Collectors (MPAC)

    #2632 3 years ago
    Quoted from RTS:

    A few of my player's sticks do not make 100% contact with the puck at all (the stick rotates above the puck.)
    It looks like the plastic stick is not straight along the playfield surface at the furthest end of the stick from the character.
    Is the best solution to completely replace the player, or is there another recommended fix for straightening the stick to be perfectly level along the surface to avoid dead spots?

    You'll need to remove the player to see why. Is the player bent? Is the player lifting from the pf? or is the ice sagging?


    That video kind of shows the removal. however you SHOULD have a clear washer above the gearbox/hole and under the ice that helps keep the player in. If that is missing the player will wiggle out of the hole. Also if you have the original chexx w/ the plastic base of the player, more likely to wiggle out.

    2 weeks later
    #2648 3 years ago
    Quoted from tommygroove:

    Just placed an order for a brand new super chexx today! Can't wait!

    Super chexx or chexx pro?

    #2651 3 years ago
    Quoted from tommygroove:

    Chexx Pro, have always loved playing bubble hockey wherever I could find it so it will be nuts to have such a fancy machine in my own home. Any maintenance tips? I'm a pinball guy through and through but the upkeep for a pin keeps me away but I assume I'll get over my fear and get a Jersey Jack game some day.

    chexx don't have much maintenance besides a typical ice wipe down and maybe a puck cleaning. When you have super duper high plays, you may need to change a gear box or a reed switch but, these like pinball, are made for route abuse so they hold up well in home (for the most part).

    1 year later
    #2897 1 year ago
    Quoted from pinballplusMN:

    Hello,
    Wondering if anyone on this thread repairs or knows of someone who works on the original chexx cpu boards? Thx!

    What’s wrong with it?
    You can ask ICE but there may be 1 guy on a Facebook group but not sure about his rep.

    The connector for the ribbon to the dome is what usually burns up.

    2 weeks later
    #2905 1 year ago

    I think, you could do the un yellow that they do for console plastics? Or at least worth a shot if you were going to replace them.

    ICE themselves sell the nets. And there are some people on the FB group, maybe I can find the website, that also custom make/mod nets to look like NHL ones.

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