LOL.... Bucks County PA.....

Did you hear that big exhale.........that was all Canadians breathing a sigh of relief! LOL

I just got a used super chexx and everything works great except the puck eject is too strong. It hits the scoreboard if no sticks are in the way. Programming only has 8 options though. Is there a secret to get to #9?

If it’s a super Chexx you can adjust it. I saw a YouTube video on it last week. I’ll see it I can find the video again

I just moved my Super Chexx and when I plugged it in nothing works now.

Make sure something else works in that outlet. Then check the main line fuse.

Or did you take the top off? Then you’ll want to check the ribbon cable and others

No all I did was move it where is the main line fuse at?

I have a Chexx and mine was in the bottom of the cab in or near the main power unit.

Guy I know (Pittsburgh) is selling one for $1350 ... it was on route but he replaced the dome, gearboxes and ribbon cable to the scoreboard!

That’s a great price! Does it include a Kris Letang Bobblehead too?

Only fuse I see is the 1/2amp fuse on the board, is this the main fuse?

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So i don’t remember what a super Chexx inside looks like. But from your pic it looks like the metal cover those green grounds go to, that may be the cover for the transformer etc

Here is what a Chexx looks like. The big metal box in the base is where that is housed. There should be a fuse inside of it. Remember to test uses with a DMM and not just a visual inspection

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Seems like the main fuse would be a much larger fuse, like a 10 amp or 12amp. I’ll probably have to take the top off to find it in the base of the unit. All I can see when I open the coin door is the main board..

Mine looks like this inside

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Does the power cord from the wall go right into the main pcb?

Geez I think it does. Is that fuse you found working?

The fuse is in a mini black box which I am assuming comes apart some how. Later tonight I am going to see if I can get the fuse out and test it. Yes, the power cord goes right to the main board.

There's a cap on the left that usually unscrews or just pulls out.

The fuse is on the ac line, that .5 amp converts to around 5 amp dc at 12v.
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/ac-to-dc-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html

Thanks I'll see if I can get that cap off tonight. Thanks I am glad you said that because I might of broke that fuse holder having no clue how to get at the fuse. lol

I'm assuming you aren't the person that I spoke with all 4 times I tried to get the decals because you don't sound like the person who was apologizing me to over the phone when your company didn't deliver the product after 52 business days (sorry for not clarifying - I had reason to believe it would be many more business days when I decided to cancel). If you aren't that person, then you don't know what I was told about how long it would take. If you are that person, which is still possible because some people gain some courage behind a keyboard, then you are either lying or forgot what happened 80-some days ago.

I called your company in February to see if you would split the order (Canada and USA). I was told that wasn't a problem, and you made that option available on your website for me. That's the same website that says "Most orders currently ship within 15 business Days (M-F) or 3 weeks." If I was told it would take a long time, I would have just bought both sets. I was also told that the order was ready when I checked in weeks ago, and that I would see a tracking number. When I didn't see a tracking number, I called, a week or two later, and was told it would be shipped the next day. I waited another week, patiently, and was finally told last week that it must have gotten shipped to another buyer. I was tired of the excuses at that point. I was disappointed because I really just wanted the decals. I asked if your company could still find a way to get me the order. I was told that you couldn't "stop the presses," to re-do this order. I asked nicely for my money back, and you obliged. I am sorry for not explaining part. I was made whole, and I was apologized to very sincerely.

I think that given that experience, I could feel free to tell others on this forum that you weren't able to help me at that point. I never wrote a bad review about your company. I only advised against you when others suggested that you might be able to help in this bubble hockey specific forum. I'm not sure how you found my post here, but I am glad that you did. I'm a person who believes in second chances, or in your case, fifth chances. That is why I ordered your decals again (both USA and Canada). Your company emailed me 3 days after the cancellation to say that multiple prints were now available on eBaY. I ordered when I saw your username had all positive reviews.

I received your product in the mail today. I will say that I am very happy with your product. It looks perfect, and it was a very reasonable price. I wish it could have gone a little smoother to get to this point, but because the outcome was finally positive, I would do business with you again. I will also give you positive feedback on eBaY. I don't hold grudges. Onward we both go.

What a weird design for a fuse. Not easy to get at and you have to remove the board to replace it. Replaced fuse and everything is working now. Thanks for the help!

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Freakin sweet!!! Glad you got it and props to latenite for the good tip on the fuse holder!

If anyone is interested I got a CHEXX in a deal. I have a Limited Edition one so I am selling this one!
pittsburgh.craigslist.org link

NEW dome and gear boxes. Surface looks really good as well! It was a routed game though. I will take off $100 for any Pinsider that buys it as well as donate some to Pinside!

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I can't remember if I ever posted these in here. Had a friend do them up.

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That is awesome.

Hi all, I am the proud “new” owner of a used Super Chexx that I finally found on Craigslist near my home. I have been following this thread for a long time in anticipation of getting a machine!

The game seems to be in great working condition except I am having a problem with the solenoid. When the puck is ejected to start a game the eject mechanism connected to the solenoid remains in the up position, therefore when a goal is scored the puck gets stuck next to the eject arm and cannot be sent back into play. I took off the ice and looked at the mechanism and it seems like it gets stuck in the “in position” and does not click back out allowing the arm to lay flat and the puck to roll on top. Have any of you all experienced this issue? I am thinking the solenoid needs replaced but any help is appreciated.

p.s. the arm attached to the solenoid is the older version that looks like a metal clothes hanger

Make sure the arm is not getting hung up and moves freely. Take a picture of it ... might help see whats going on

Price reduction .... now 1550$

Same as meSz said. Make sure that there isnt a mecahnical hang up. If not, is the coil staying active? That could cause some serious burn. Could be a bad transistor if so.

Thanks all. There isn't anything physically making the arm get held up. The 2nd pic shows the solenoid arm extended to allow for the puck to be ejected, the 1st pic shows the solenoid pulled in after the puck gets ejected, but it stays like that and the arm is stuck up (3rd pic). When I physically touch the solenoid I can get it to pop back out allowing for the pick to be ejected, but obviously that isn't practical for real game play.

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Sorry, the pics got loaded in a weird order. Also, I wish I would have seen your posting for sale earlier, I live right outside of Pittsburgh as well.

If there isn't anything you can see hanging up then there is probably buildup of dirt in the solenoid sleeve or the spring is worn out and doesn't have enough strength left to push the piston out. I would take it out of the machine and clean it up. There is one screw on the metal bar that goes in front of the piston, remove that and the piston should slide out, clean it up and see if it works. You can test it out of the machine if you have a 12v power supply, 6v might even be enough to get the solenoid to pull in.

The detention bar should reach to the other side of the piston, you might want to straiten that so the piston stops evenly.
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So there had to be prior issues as it looks like new wire/ends on the wires to the solenoid. Also the black looks crispy near the connectors? Do you feel/hear the coil staying electrified/held while the arm is staying up? or are the wires reversed?

Something must be catching on yours. I have mine apart right now so I'll look at mine later.

Thanks for the help from all the posts. I have taken apart the solenoid and cleaned the piston. With a little lubrication, it is working a lot better. Also, i think the spring is worn so I will be ordering a replacement! Thanks again!

Agghhh you may want to clean the lubricant off! Coils aren't made to be lubricated that's part of the coil sleeve purpose! Plus, if you used WD40 or any other flammable lubricant you could have a fire!

I have a HUO Superchexx in Michigan if anyone is looking....https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/64185

Very nice ..... edit you post and put a space between the last period and your URL.... then people can just click on it! (see how I did it in your qoute right above this?)

I finally settled on a design for a customized puck. I have been using one in my machine for a few months with no issues so I decided to make some up and see if people were interested. You can pick the logos you would like from the ones I have in the second photo. I have 7 black, 1 silver and 1 blue/white made up. Send me a pm if you are interested, $25 shipped in the US. Since these are new and not extensively tested, other than my machine, if you have issues with it chipping or breaking in the first 6 months let me know and I'll refund your money.

Some examples of what they look like.
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These are the logos I have to choose from
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Those looks great man! Hate t be nit picky, but if there a way to print the logo on black background so it blends in?

I looked at that early on but with the center only being about 1/2 inch most of the logos looked dark and didn't show up well, especially once it was in the game through the dome. These ones looked alright but some, like the Sharks, just gets lost on there.

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Hi there, I have a problem with my Super Chexx Gen 2. Sometimes the game never ends, after the 3rd period is over, it just starts another period, and another, and another. Usually after 6 it will finally end. This is NOT because the game is tied and going into overtime.

Thanks

Just to cover bases

What are the dip switches or settings for games set at?

During other periods, does the game work correctly? Like register the puck scoring, knowing the puck is needing to be ejected etc

I have the manual, so could start working on checking to see how the schematics work

Thanks Dave. The puck looks amazing and does work perfectly with the scoring of my Halex table. Sioux Forever!!

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Hi northvibe sorry for the late reply. I have it set to 1 minute in length periods, and free play mode is on. Next time I'm at my shop I can let you know exactly which switches are on/off in the 4 bank switch. The first three periods work great.

It would indeed be helpful to know which IC's control the basic logic of the game over state.

Also, this board has had issues in the past. The previous owner plugged in the display connector in backwards, so the display was displaying corrupt info. This was professionally repaired by John's Jukes.

I think one thing I will try is reseating the rom as well.

I have a real n00b question for the board. Just received my Chexx Pro game and I'm excited to give it a shot.

1) Where does the green ground wire attach? Directly onto the wing nut near the power supply?

2) Is the system preprogrammed (non-coin op version) for home use and simply plug and play? Or do I have to go into program mode and make a bunch of tweaks?

Many thanks!

Both of your questions depend on the version of the game you bought!

Most versions of the game the ground wire attaches to the metal housing of where the coins pass through to the coin box. If you look at post #1310 above you will see what I am talking about (picture in post 1310 is an older game and not a PRO)! Question is ... did you buy a home version or a Coin version?? Your manual shows where the ground wire goes so its best to refer to it!

Again, depends on the version you bought. The home version is set to free play so you plug and play. The coin version you need to change the dip switch for it to be free play. The manual will also show this!

Congrats on the new game!

There's also a Super Chexx Pro thread, someone might have answered your questions in there.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/superchexx-pro-owners-club

Anyone in the Corning, NY area looking for a machine. I saw this one today on craigslist.

$750 - Looks like it will clean up.
elmira.craigslist.org link

Finally ordered my decals for my Wisconsin Badgers vs Minnesota Gophers. I needed to print white on clear, so I went with a 5" x 5" custom window decal from Vistaprint. Even with shipping it was under $10. The size was actually more then enough to get the logos and numbers. I was filling the extra space with some other random stuff, including some decals for the goalie masks. I'll post pictures when they arrive. I'm probably still the most nervous about the Wisconsin logo. It's just not super clear when I convert them to .png format. If the "WISCONSIN" logo doesn't look good, I may end up using just the "W" logo.

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So the Vistaprint clear decals are a pain in the butt to get them to stick to the players. If I were to redo it I might try superglue. I used a 3M adheasive and then painted over them with a clear. The key was using heat after each step. I sat with each player under heat and used a tweezers to move and press the decals down. They are by no means perfect, but when they are mounted under the dome, I think they will look just fine. I'm going to put another 3-4 coats of clear over them then install them.

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