I've got a really nice Hyperball that plays fine but needs some TLC.

Anyone have an 3x working opto target board or source for new opto's?

Or a micro switch ball drain tube or two?

My speaker panel has a small crack in the H, if anyone has a minty fresh one I also may be interested if the price is right. Same for a backglass, mine is a C, I would not mind finding a better one.

Pat

If you can spare them. Or if you know of a good source. I found this place:

http://www.competitiveproducts.com/list.php?id=337

But I really wasn't in the mood to fire up an order for 1 opto. $4.50 part, plus $5 fee for under min order, plus shipping,, end up being a $20 part.

Thanks Trace. I have the tubes, I guess I should break out my meter and just clean out the micro switches.

I'm in no rush Roland, Robocop is fun, wish I could read japanese though to figure out what the buttons are for on the front. Can't seem to make them do anything.

Ok you freaked me out... Had to go back and see if I posted a wrong pic or something.

Bookmarked, will order them tomorrow thanks!

Now to come up with a better backglass. This cab is close to flawless, but someone fixed a BG scratch with a line of black paint.

Yeah one was meh at about $169 and the other was visible flaking at $129... I'll keep spelunking.

Going to hit the sack now and watch Game of Thrones, I'll upload a few tomorrow.

One pic.

DSC00981.JPG

ebay.com link: Williams Hyperball Pinball Back Box Translight glass wires
GDI!!! Local shipping only, has a good BG and spare head. Definitely a 'wish I was closer'.

Got the opto's off of Ebay, worked like a champ, I have "P" again.

I now notice that I have a lamp matrix row/column that take a few minutes to 'warm up'... Off to the prints.

Tricky both in access and installation.

You have to remove the two screws on top that hold the "N O P" (or what sign is on yours), then under the playfield, 4 screws, a few cable clamps and a molex and the assembly pulls out the bottom.

Once out you have to take off one clip that holds the rod that hold the 3 targets. You can pull it out half way or and leave the targets dangling on their return springs.

Then you can remove the optic.

Here is the tricky part, the marking on the old and new have not specific orientation on them. The Original ones had writing on one side, new ones have an E+ and S+ on the caps but that don't help and you have no board reference to tie that to.

Sooooooo, seeing the opto is no more than a lamp and a diode pair, I ohm'd the old one out and found the 'diode' side and did the same for the new one and matched orientation. Either I was a technical genius, or I just got lucky as it's a coin toss on the orientation.

Steven?

And yes in Mass.

It has got to be the one. Check out my backglass. Unless there are two Hyperballs in the world with a big scratch fixed with black enamel.

I bought it about hmmmmm a month ago maybe? I'll have to check my logs.

*edit: just checked, May 29th. It has a good home now. LED'd backglass, red leg protectors, 50 red insert leds (and about 50 more to go), warm white LED GI on Playfield, new canon tip, repaired optos, just need to fix a slow to come alive lamp matrix line or two *

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Oh and another coincidence,,,, not as close as yours but about 2 pins over...

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Still takes 10 mins for the gun to come to full power. I haven't dug deep into that issue yet but in looking at the prints nothing leaps out at me that can cause that. The circuit is pretty binary in that it's a repurposed flipper control board with 120VDC instead of 50VDC.

Nice to know the history a bit. I'll ask Steve if he got it from Scott or if someone else owned it for a bit. What years did you own it?

Chris ---> Scott --> ? ---> Steven --> Roger (AKA:Pat)

Well, thanks to Steve @ Mayfair and the Pintastic NE 2015 event, I finally found a reallly nice Hyperball BG in Steve's discount bin of all places!!! $50 even!!!

Now maybe someday I'll tackle the slow to come up to speed gun issue.

Don't be knocking the HB.

It is an interesting beast that is certain.. Now that I have a new BG, only issue this thing will have forever is the 10 mins to play thing.

Too many other game projects to get to it..

I did the same to mine, I replaced all of the transistors for mosfet and got rid of the resistors, I replaced the 5101 for an nvram and I updated the code to a version that saves high score to date.

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