1962 World Series
Williams, 1962Is there a source for the 1962 World Series Super HR plastic? Has anyone repro'd them and wishes to share the art or make me one?
Also, I saw the bat mechs were remade and sold out, does anyone have an extra one, even an old one? Thanks!
Years back, my Graphic Designer made one for me for a 1961 Batting Champ
(the one in the game), and he happen to loose the artwork, so 2 or 3 years
back, he remade it for a 1962 Extra Innings (the ones taken next to the old
original).
He's been ill for awhile, but if you want to buy a piece of 1/16" lexan of
its size, I'll check if he's able to run one off in a decal form. This is on vinyl,
but it'll look the same as silkscreen, and it does apply to the backside..
IMG_0454 (resized).JPGIMG_0455 (resized).JPGIMG_0532 (resized).JPGQuoted from Mopar:Years back, my Graphic Designer made one for me for a 1961 Batting Champ
(the one in the game), and he happen to loose the artwork, so 2 or 3 years
back, he remade it for a 1962 Extra Innings (the ones taken next to the old
original).
He's been ill for awhile, but if you want to buy a piece of 1/16" lexan of
its size, I'll check if he's able to run one off in a decal form. This is on vinyl,
but it'll look the same as silkscreen, and it does apply to the backside..
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That would be great if you could ask him! I'll pm u
Shay arcade group has the hr plastic. I've used Mopar's guy for a decal on skill roll and it was high quality, too!
Quoted from gutz:Shay arcade group has the hr plastic. I've used Mopar's guy for a decal on skill roll
Yes, and it'll be a whole lot cheaper in a decal form, and 1/16"
lexan cuts and drills with ease with no risk of cracking..
Ok it looks like I'm also missing part of the pitching mech (see photo)..... can anyone take a photo of this area or the mech I'm missing? Does anyone have a digital copy of manual/schematics they could send over?
I took this as a project, being told it was missing top glass, HR plastic and the bat, but as always when buying a project you better believe there's more missing, sadly.
So as of now, I need:
1) bat lever mech (converted to button currently)
2) super HR plastic (mopar's friend hopefully priniting decal)
3) pitching coil/mech (see photo)
4) manual/schematics
If anyone can help, please PM me! It looks like there have been a lot of restores of this machine, and a lot of parts have been remade, including the bat lever mech, so hopefully someone can help, even with old mech.
The good is that the running man unit works, and the rest of the game seems to function and score apart from the pitching mech, but it does try to engage. And the bat works fine with the button, but obviously we'd like to get the real bat lever.
Thanks!
IMG_1666 (resized).JPGIMG_1667 (resized).JPGThe Shay group does have the plastic
http://shayarcadegroup.com/playfield-plastics/
Your are missing the pitching motor. See chart for correct motor
018F1043-5476-4F1E-BDE0-30A3A365CFA3 (resized).jpeg
Mike V
Quoted from RacingPin:The Shay group does have the plastic
http://shayarcadegroup.com/playfield-plastics/
Your are missing the pitching motor. See chart for correct motor
[quoted image]
Mike V
Thank you! That's very helpful, I have the guys I got it from looking around their shop to see if it got set aside or something, fingers crossed.
But as of now, I have a almost working 62 World Series, without a pitching unit motor. Spec sheet says 17 rpm..... Anyone know if the Slugfest pitching motor would possibly work? I'm sure the motor/power would be different but if the gearbox would work then might be possible?
Sorry, my Graphic designer hasn't got back to me yet
on the decal. I'll try back again tomorrow..
I might know where you may have luck getting a Pitching Motor.
I'll shoot you a pm..
Ok so a friend couldn't find a pitching motor, but did find a 7745a which is 24rpm (not 17).
Does anyone have any experience trying a different, faster, motor? Would the pitches be too Nolan Ryan for everyone or would it not work at all?
Thanks and still looking...
Quoted from mechslave:Ok so a friend couldn't find a pitching motor, but did find a 7745a which is 24rpm (not 17).
Does anyone have any experience trying a different, faster, motor? Would the pitches be too Nolan Ryan for everyone or would it not work at all?
Thanks and still looking...
Can you put an aftermarket motor in the machine? I know we did this for Pinball Machine.
Quoted from mechslave:Ok so a friend couldn't find a pitching motor, but did find a 7745a which is 24rpm (not 17).
Does anyone have any experience trying a different, faster, motor? Would the pitches be too Nolan Ryan for everyone or would it not work at all?
Thanks and still looking...
That is a 115V motor not 50V.
Where you able to find the hardware to mount it and the drive arm?
Quoted from SteveinTexas:That is a 115V motor not 50V.
Where you able to find the hardware to mount it and the drive arm?
I haven't received it yet, I'm hoping it comes with a drive arm that will work, but I didn't ask just said beggars can't be choosers since they're hooking me up and right now I have nothing...
Thanks for the help everyone, I'll update this week when it arrives!
Quoted from mechslave:Ok so a friend couldn't find a pitching motor, but did find a 7745a which is 24rpm (not 17).
Does anyone have any experience trying a different, faster, motor? Would the pitches be too Nolan Ryan for everyone or would it not work at all?
Thanks and still looking...
I would think you would have issues with the switches going off at the wrong time, bat breaking with too hard a pitch or motor not running right. I would seek the correct motor
Mike V
As requested attached are pictures of the pitching unit motor 14A-7744, connecting frame A-5609 and drive arm 1A-2528. I believe these are the parts you need. You may also need the slow coil and it’s gingerbread.
You can review the parts and their part number in the Williams 1966 parts book found on Planetary Pinball web site.
23940AD3-5C37-4ECA-9426-D155823DDFCB (resized).jpeg3CDB6FB3-333E-496A-948D-9E1D6FF20375 (resized).jpeg633C94C1-4135-4D8C-90C7-49B70F363885 (resized).jpegEB262594-F452-4311-85C2-9CE4E4A775CF (resized).jpeg
Ok so just wanted to update everyone. I have solved the Super HR plastic, thanks Shay Arcade Group, and found a new bat handle, thanks James S on Pitch n Bat facebook group.
And a huge, huge thanks to Steve Young as he's searched for a setup for me, and found a motor that is very close, as well as the mounting bracket and torque arm for me.
Unfortunately, that motor was for Pinch Hitter and mounts on the other side in that machine. Which means it rotates CCW to throw the ball towards the front of the cabinet. I need it to go CW since I'm mounting it on the left side of the pitcher. In all our talks we never discussed motor direction or mounting side, we were so worried with the RPM's and being able to mount it and attach it! LOL soooo close. I mean, I'd be playing ball right now if that thing went the right direction!
I tested it loose, just to make sure it fired and found out the bad news. I made a short video.
So I'm much closer, checking the mounting bracket and torque arm off the list, but the motor itself is no bueno unless there's a way to reverse it? The motor is now the final piece to the puzzle. Is there a way to take it apart and reverse directions?
Quoted from mechslave:Is there a way to take it apart and reverse directions?
Years back the windings were burned out on a ball bowlers ball lift motor,
so I changed the coil pack, and the motor went the wrong direction. The
pack's windings had to of been wound in the opposite direction that they
should have been. I did a 180 on the coil pack (the solder terminals were
now facing the inside) and it did the trick. That can be done on a United
Ball Bowler's Ball Lift motor, but I'm not sure if the winding pack can do
the same on your motor. I'd study it a little bit. Maybe it can..
I can confirm that by turning the coil winding upside down it will change the direction to the opposite way per Mopar’s post.
A few years ago I was fortunate to find the correct pitching unit motor on eBay. Unfortunately it operated backwards. I fixed it by disassembling and repositioning the coil winding. The rivets were brass and all seemed nos plus the wiring tabs had no evidence of solder so I believe it was like that from the factory.
I drilled out all the rivets and changed the position and reassembled correctly with copper rivets from Ace Hardware tubing. Works perfectly.
Well done to all that helped especially Steve.
Quoted from SteveinTexas:I can confirm that by turning the coil winding upside down it will change the direction to the opposite way per Mopar’s post.
Actually, I didn't flip the Coil Winding upside down (as if the top was now the bottom, and the bottom was the top).
I turned it a 180 so now the back of the Coil Winding was the front, and the front was the back. That was doing
the same as if I rewound the coil in the opposite direction that it was wound in.
Years back before I wound my own coils, I would send a burned out Coil Pack to an old time Vendor, and one
time he sent it back and the windings must have been wound in the opposite direction..
Quoted from SteveinTexas:I can confirm that by turning the coil winding upside down it will change the direction to the opposite way per Mopar’s post.
A few years ago I was fortunate to find the correct pitching unit motor on eBay. Unfortunately it operated backwards. I fixed it by disassembling and repositioning the coil winding. The rivets were brass and all seemed nos plus the wiring tabs had no evidence of solder so I believe it was like that from the factory.
I drilled out all the rivets and changed the position and reassembled correctly with copper rivets from Ace Hardware tubing. Works perfectly.
Well done to all that helped especially Steve.
Ok that is great news, Steve! So drill out these 3 rivets, and then flip front to back, so the 271 is facing the other direction, correct? I'll test before I re-rivet it back together. I'll stop by ACE and see if I can grab those copper rivets today.
Thank you!!
IMG_2231 (resized).jpgI just looked at your pic. There is a yellow arrow. That is not what to drill out. Is this an open motor or closed? It matters to explain what to do.
Also it’s been awhile since I did this on a closed and open motor but Mopar is correct in post another.
Quoted from SteveinTexas:I just looked at your pic. There is a yellow arrow. That is not what to drill out. Is this an open motor or closed? It matters to explain what to do.
Also it’s been awhile since I did this on a closed and open motor but Mopar is correct in post another.
I'll post a few better pics of my motor. I haven't done anything with it yet.
IMG_2277 (resized).JPGIMG_2278 (resized).JPGIMG_2279 (resized).JPGIMG_2280 (resized).JPGIMG_2282 (resized).JPGIMG_2283 (resized).JPGOpen motor I see. 22 rpm. That will do nicely.
Looks on first glance that the coil is upside down. I will check this evening when I am home with my spare motors.
Their are 4 brass rivets that you can see on the gearbox portion, they are what gets drilled, you only need to drill the top off the rivet and they can be punched out. Take lots of pic’s where the washers go. There is no drilling on the coil as it will fall out once the rivet’s are removed. The copper tube that you will use is 3/16”. Get a few feet so you can make a few. Measure the depth of the motor, as this is the exact length that you will use to make the copper replacement rivet.
I will check all this this evening and update if I errored or issued something.
Steve
Quoted from SteveinTexas:Open motor I see. 22 rpm. That will do nicely.
Looks on first glance that the coil is upside down. I will check this evening when I am home with my spare motors.
Their are 4 brass rivets that you can see on the gearbox portion, they are what gets drilled, you only need to drill the top off the rivet and they can be punched out. Take lots of pic’s where the washers go. There is no drilling on the coil as it will fall out once the rivet’s are removed. The copper tube that you will use is 3/16”. Get a few feet so you can make a few. Measure the depth of the motor, as this is the exact length that you will use to make the copper replacement rivet.
I will check all this this evening and update if I errored or issued something.
Steve
Steve, I haven't drilled out the motor yet. Been super busy, but also I wasn't sure which way it would go back together, so I wanted to get my head around that before I drill it.
So the coil is going to rotate front to back? Or top to bottom? There's not room to flip it top to bottom unless it goes on the outside of the motor, and flipping it around the other way doesn't seem like it will work because the gear drive is not mirrored and only on one side. So I'm not sure how exactly it's to be done, although I got the 3/16 copper tubing and a riveter.
I was going to call Steve Young this week anyway (to try and hunt for some Alvin G switch flipper parts) and ask his take on it as well.
Thanks for any and all help!
Hi, always get another opinion and Steve would be the best. I have experienced two motors that turned the wrong direction.
I purchased a Nos motor on eBay. It was a 14A-7744 pitching closed design motor. I believed that I turned the coil upside down. I had a bench transformer rigged up and it was easy to check the rotation before reassembling the rivets. What every I did was from what I noticed from a previous experience.
I had reinstalled a major league target motor that I had cleaned and had taken the cams off the two sided drive shaft. I found after reassembling in the game that the shaft was turning the wrong direction. So took out of the assembly swapped the cams on the shaft and reassembled the motor with the motor position reversed 180 deg.
This is why I knew that I could turn the coil around to swap the drive shaft direction.
I don’t know that I can explain any better nor that the motor you have is exactly the same as a Williams motor. Ask Steve maybe the best bet.
Steve
Update: I'm getting close. Does anyone know the glass size? I know tempered and assume 3/16". I can measure but it's tough to get perfect measurements into the grooves for the glass.
And the big news is to say thank you!! I got it going! Mainly thanks to the Two Steve's! Thank you! So I took SteveTX's advice and sent it back to Steve Young, who happily flipped it around for me and riveted it all back perfectly. I'd come too far to screw that motor up! Now the motor and mounting bracket were from Pitch Hitter, which mounts on the other side, so I still need to account for the 3rd screw. A WS bracket would have the third screw on the bottom, but when flipped it's at the top and affects the motor movement *barely* so I had to bend it out and will now need to use a couple of washers to make it solid. But that should be easy. The back two screws match and mounted perfectly. I was really wondering if I had a bundle of parts for awhile, so getting it pitching is a huge sigh of relief.
For those keeping score and possibly missing motors, the rpms were indeed close enough 22 v 17. It seems to pitch perfectly, so far, and I've played several games through. We took apart the reels and steppers and cleaned them in the back, and it's playing fair. The left stepper in the upper bottom of the cab is buzzing here and there, which I think controls the OUT advance which didn't move a few times, so I'll take that apart and clean it too. Also, I am not positive the magnet is working. I think I heard the game attempt to engage it a couple times, but ball wasn't affected. Is the magnet subtle or should I easily notice it affecting the pitch?
I need to do some more cosmetic stuff, like fill in the hole by the bat handle where they drilled the button. And decide if I want to replace the backglass with a new one or not, as it's never going to be a beauty queen, but really wanted to get it playing well and looking decent. Almost there!
IMG_3262 (resized).JPGAre you still in need of pitch motor?
Gary 360-473-7104
[email protected]
I also have a new reproduction backglasse for the world series and a bat unit.
Gary 360-473-7104
[email protected]
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Saint Augustine, FL