(Topic ID: 234612)

[WPC95] CV volume stucked at max

By cami2305

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by branlon8
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Hello guys,

I would need your help today cause I'm trying to fix a volume issue on my CV.
The pin was working properly till yesterday ... then suddently, volume setting went up till max (32) without any reason.

First, I decided to unplug the speakers before loosing my ears

Then, I have checked the coindoor buttons : all were unresponsive. Everything else is working on the pin.
After that, I have checked the buttons one by one with my DMM : got 12V on each, then 0V when pressed.

I have double checked J205 and nothing bad there.

After, I have removed J205 wire and also the batteries to force a factory reset.
Right after the factory reset and the RingMaster test, the volume goes up to max from 12 to 31 in a few seconds (j205 unplugged here)
The screen keeps showing the volume level at max forever...

What can I do now to troubleshoot this issue ??

Thanks at all for your help

#2 5 years ago

Can you post a picture of the whole MPU board with the wiring connected at the bottom of the board?

#3 5 years ago

Yes sure, I will do that tomorrow. it’s too late now here in Paris

What was you thinking about ?

#4 5 years ago

Just partially worried about battery leakage/corrosion.

#5 5 years ago

batteries were old (max date 2014 on them) but I did not mention any leakage or corrosion.

According the fact j205 has been removed and the dot is always showing the volume message at max, can we conclude the issue is coming from the MPU?

#6 5 years ago

It's a WPC-95 CPU and the batteries are at the top/left of the board. The switch matrix is at the bottom. I'm not saying that any alkaline damage cannot reach there but it's less likely on WPC-95 than on WPC-89. WPC-95 alkaline damage usually takes out U5 and U27 before it gets near the switch matrix. I have one where I repaired damage to those as well as U4, U9 and G10 all on a single board.

#7 5 years ago

Yes, you’re right.. the batteries are quite far from the switch matrix.

I don’t think there is something related to leakage there, but I am gonna check this carefuly tomorrow.

After, I am gonna check U16 with my logic probe tester.

#8 5 years ago

Some pictures ...

7ACB0339-DC7B-4FEA-AFAA-9B7C01112019 (resized).jpeg7ACB0339-DC7B-4FEA-AFAA-9B7C01112019 (resized).jpeg7BB3CC6F-A0DA-4C6A-8F4E-3F0E1F924E6D (resized).jpeg7BB3CC6F-A0DA-4C6A-8F4E-3F0E1F924E6D (resized).jpeg
#9 5 years ago

Can you check the ground braid behind the CPU-board. (red circle) Is it touching the backside of the board at J205 ?

If not, start with the outputs of U16 (pin 1,2,13,14). (red square)
They should all be High (5 volt) when buttons are not activated or J205 is disconnected.
'volume up' is pin 1 of U16

Naamloos-1.jpgNaamloos-1.jpg

#10 5 years ago

Ok i'm gonna check this in a few minutes.

What I have done just before your message was testing the U16 pins according to the guide i have found here :

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Direct_Switch_Problems

But I'm not sure if I'm doing this well with my DMM...
Below is what I have done :

I have put the RED wire to U16 - pins 5 and then the black wire to ground braid.
Then pins 7 , 9 , 11

J205 is connected, no buttons pressed of course.

each pin is showing 12V DC when the red wire is on the pin and the black on the ground braid.
When i remove the black wire, the DMM shows 0VDC

I'm not sure if my test is useful or not ...

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from cami2305:

I'm not sure if my test is useful or not ...

That test is useful, it shows that the inputs of the LM339 are not being pulled 'LOW' by a switch or any other cause.
Now the outputs of U16 are next to measure (see post #9)

#12 5 years ago

U16 pin 1,2,13,14 = 5.13V DC

#13 5 years ago

That is all what it is supposed to be.

This could mean that U15 is corrupted or even problems with data around processor/ram/asic

#14 5 years ago

Does pressing on the ASIC chip U9 help?

#15 5 years ago

And yes, a single picture is worth a 1000 words. I just find asking for pictures right away does help rule out some possibilities. This one did have switch errors and you can see anything is possible. In the case, most of the corrosion is on the back of the board. This seems quite impossible, but there it is.

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#16 5 years ago

Wow, ok.
I'm gonna remove the PCB right now and check that + pictures .
I'll keep you posted in a few minutes.

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from cami2305:

Wow, ok.
I'm gonna remove the PCB right now and check that + pictures .
I'll keep you posted in a few minutes.

The front of your board looks good, so I'm not expecting damage on the back. Just wanted to show why I was asking for a picture.

As I mentioned on post #14, try pressing on the U9 ASIC chip to see if it fixes the max sound issue.

#18 5 years ago

I thought there was a chip on the sound board that controls the volume, that I've read in other posts.

#19 5 years ago

Fixed by pressing U9 !! and all the others UX on the MPU board

Thanks at all for your help !

#20 5 years ago

zaza always on point. Thank you for posting here.

#21 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Thank you for posting here.

This was an interesting one.
First it was pointing to the switch inputs at J205 because of non responding buttons. But after having a correct signal at the outputs on the LM339 but still a "volume up" on screen, it was clearly something deeper in the CPU.

Glad that pressing ASIC as you suggested solved the problem and saved the ears of cami2305

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

This was an interesting one.

MPU = Multiple Problem Unit
Play ball !!!

#23 5 years ago

cami2305 I hope you get NVRAM installed in the near future to protect this perfect board. I hate batteries.

#24 5 years ago

Yes I’m gonna study the nvram way.
Never installed on my pinball machines so far.
I’m using mostly industrial batteries ( no leakage guarantee)

#25 5 years ago

I once had a lamps issue on my AFM that I could not figure out for a long time. I tried everything I could think of with no success. Someone told me to push on the Asic chip and VOILA! Fixed it.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

And yes, a single picture is worth a 1000 words. I just find asking for pictures right away does help rule out some possibilities. This one did have switch errors and you can see anything is possible. In the case, most of the corrosion is on the back of the board. This seems quite impossible, but there it is.

can you explain what we should be seeing in these images? It looks like the back of the board around U23 is pretty gamey. That can’t be battery corrosion, can it?, it’s so far away from the battery holders.

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