Was playing my newly acquired Road Show and the shaker was going off when multiball starts(which is normal). At some point it really started to shake!! Shaker stopped game continued to play fine. Opened coin door and there was a burning small. Long story short Q20 appears to be shorted and F111 blown. As expected these both go to shaker, and F111 also does flashers. Needless to say flashers and shaker dont work now.

I have a TIP 102 and can replace as well as a new fuse. My question is what else should I be worried about, are these motors known to go bad and it will just blow it again? I will obviously look for a short and look over the board better when its out. What about the little shaker board?

Also, its hard to read, but pretty sure there was an 8amp fuse and not a 5amp in there...grrr.

I did recently put in LED and GI OCD boards, should not be related but its the one thing that changed.

Not that it matters but this is a supposedly HUO game, and looks to be not played ton super clean, boards clean not hacks(well wrong fuse maybe) etc..

So... again just want to know other than replacing the transistor and fuse what else should I test do before firing it back up.

Thanks!

Disregard this boar its fine

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N/A

Ok I got to the bottom of the cause .. when I installed my LED OCD I accidentally put the J105 cable in the wrong place which I turn locked all the flashers on . Since they are on the same circuit as the shaker , and also because the wrong fuse was in there it shorted q20.

At this point I replaced q20 but I suspect either I did a poor job or something else is wrong as the shaker will not turn on .

Assuming my solder Job is ok(I think it is but I didn’t love the look of one pad) what else should I test ? I did test the wire at the motor if I touch my probes to the red and black wires on the connector I get just over 20V .. there is also a blue wire not sure if that’s what tells it to turn on and how to test it ?

Assuming it’s not “turning” on what’s best way to test the transistor on the board(not for short but that it works)

Also could it be the pre-driver or a resistor ? They look ok but who knows.

Ok I actually if I put my black lead on ground and my red lead on the hot shaker wire I get 20v when running shaker test and turning off interlock . Thinking motor just got toasted no idea how to test

Quick Monday bump, do shakers motors fry if locked on ? Hoping I just need a new motor and I have fixed the rest.

Yeah long story short I got Q20 replaced, its no longer shorted. When in test mode the motor does not wizz...but....I seem to get 20V to it when I close the coin door and its on repeat for that coil which goes away when I open the door(well technically press the buttons) so to me that means all is good up to the motor?

There was definitely a significant burning smell and the board looks ok, all coils look ok. for sure the shaker motor was locked on ..until it wasnt

and yes I am sorta curious how to test a transistor on the board! Just to know, also the pre-driver? Is that possible?

Great info thanks !

Ok it’s the board / transistor. Decided to swap it with a Rottendog I had and it works . The traces didn’t look great when I desolderd it. I use a hakko desoldering gun and it’s usually quite good at the job . There seemed to be some flux residue as well and the transistor was a different brand .

So needless to say while it could be another component I suspect the bad trade . Not sure how to fox that perhaps a professional can do it

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Yeah I emailed ChrisHibler its such a pristine board otherwise I’d hate to make it worse . May just grab a spare rotten dog to keep around cause I don’t want to wait 90 days . I’ll have 5 games it would work on if needed in the future

Off it goes to Chris