(Topic ID: 73804)

WPC Xformer problem fixed, resets gone.......

By HighSpeed1

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

Looking for a WPC (TAF) or compatible main transformer.
My secondary 9VAC that feeds B/R2 is too low, causing game resets.

Meanwhile I'll be looking for a winding company too, clue me in, in case anyone knows of one.

#2 10 years ago

Try K's Arcade. I got a System 11 transformer from them once.

#3 10 years ago

Thanks, checking now...

#4 10 years ago

Do you have the required part number? I've got one here that I believe came from JD. Not sure if it works in TAF.

#5 10 years ago

If you can post pics of the unit with the molex connectors, I'll look at both schematics to see if the voltage and pin outs are the same for all sets of windings. The part numbers may be different but it could still work if all the different voltage outputs are correct. So far it's looking like WPC, and WPC-S game transformers will work.
Many thanks,
Chris...

#6 10 years ago

Are you sure this is the transformer? That is very rare. Have you checked this voltage straight out of the transformer or at the boards? It could lie in the connectors from the transformer to the boards.

#7 10 years ago

Only early WPC tranformers will work. A DCS transformer (any WPC game with DCS sound board, or WPC-S game) will not work as the sound board in these games operates on 12 volts, and the TAF sound board operates on 18 volts.

#8 10 years ago

This is what has been done so far over the weekend.

Driver board components replaced:
BR1-BR5
C30, C11, C7, C6, C5, C2, C8, C4
Q1
All traces were rang out after components were replaced.
Voltage readings after replacements:
All voltages matched, and were measured from both the TP8-GND terminal, and grounding plane plate behind the boards.

TP1 12VU, read 14.9V
TP2 5V, read 5.0V
TP3 12VR, read 11.8V
TP4 ZC, read .47V
TP6 50V, read 74.3V
TP7 20V, read 22.0V

All bridge rectifiers at the plus DC terminals to the ground plate read as follows:

BR1 16.4V
BR2 8.3V
BR4 22.00V
BR5 14.8V

House voltage measures 121.0V at the service outlet (game off or on).

I also have 4.9 V at the MPU game ROM pin 32 to GND

BR1 on the small flipper board just above the driver board measured 75.0V

BR2 measures 8.45 DCV at cold power up. This is across the BR's DC lugs just under the BR body, Same BR measured on the AC lugs is 7.7 ACV. I float my BR's a little high on the component side of the board so I can assure solder is on both sides, this also allows me to test them from the component side of the board too.

Header J101 (Secondary) pins 1 & 2 Red & Red wires, which feed the BR2 circuit only show 8V AC when unplugged from the board and powered on, when I plug it into the driver board while the game is still powered up the game boots up, and I now show 7.8V AC or so at the idc crimps. The manual says this secondary circuit should be 9V AC. Which when new probably read 11-13VAC.

With the transformer molex cube plug disconnected from the rest of the game in the base, the voltage output on the 2 red wires is 8VAC.
Spoke to Crash over the weekend, and his White Water measures 11 or 12VAC at the same J101 plug up from the transformer.
I believe this circuit is starved for power, thus unable to create a stable 5VDC. Went to an electric winding shop today and left with a loaner AC in transformer that is dial-able from 0 volt AC out to 120 volts AC out @ 5 amps. I am going to isolate the 2 red wires from the molex cube in the base and connect this transformer to it and dial it up to 11 volts or so to hopefully prove my theory that the low voltage on J101 is the culprit. We'll see tonight. The electric winding company gets a minimum $500.00 to rewind all secondaries in my existing transformer. Only all secondaries can be rewound, not just the suspect one.

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#9 10 years ago
Quoted from HighSpeed1:

Spoke to Crash over the weekend, and his White Water measures 11 or 12VAC at the same J101 plug up from the transformer.

Nice work. Some people completely disregard there are issues in those connectors, that's why I mentioned.

I'm interested to see how this turns out.

#10 10 years ago

Why would you ever shotgun all those parts on the driver board? That is just asking for problems!

Are you certain the red wires have solid crimps etc?

I've only ever seen transformers be good or bad.

Is the +5 on the driver board consistent? You should be able to throw a meter on it and see if it dips when it resets

If you have .10 drop between the driver board and the CPU, the power connectors on the CPU and driver are suspect. Replace both sides of both connectors.

I don't think the transformer is your problem.

#11 10 years ago

No worries, I always welcome input. I'm pretty technical, own an appliance repair company, but sometimes it's the obvious that you always miss. I'm hoping this is just that time.

#12 10 years ago

Bingo. It works. Removed the 2 red wires from the game side of the molex cube plug in the base and connected them to the output of the temp transformer. With this test transformer I can dial it down to 8.5VAC out and the game goes into an automatic reset from attract mode, dial it up to 11VAC and the game boots and stays up. I can hit both flippers in rapid fire succession, and the game never resets. Hit the flippers with the transformer dialed down to the 8.5 to 9VAC, and it reboots. I also have a stable 5VDC at TP2, and the game ROM pin.

So looking for a transformer...

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

Why would you ever shotgun all those parts on the driver board? That is just asking for problems!
Are you certain the red wires have solid crimps etc?
I've only ever seen transformers be good or bad.
Is the +5 on the driver board consistent? You should be able to throw a meter on it and see if it dips when it resets
If you have .10 drop between the driver board and the CPU, the power connectors on the CPU and driver are suspect. Replace both sides of both connectors.
I don't think the transformer is your problem.

I always replace old caps, and many other parts, I love replacing parts, never hurts. All those parts were original. I am very good at soldering, and de slodering. I would replace all those parts again in a heart beat if needed.

#14 10 years ago

Found a used transformer, still waiting to get a repair estimate on my original one. Here were the voltage readings from a few days ago.

The transformer was "completely" disconnected and humming away in the base with absolutely no load, here are the readings.

(6.8 VAC) Yel-Wht actual (7.5 VAC)

(51.4 VAC) Blk-Yel actual (55.8 VAC)

(16 VAC) Wht-Red , Wht-Red actual (16.9 VAC)

(13.3 VAC) Blu-Wht , Blu-Wht actual (14.2 VAC)

(9 VAC) Red , Red actual (8.2 VAC)

(9.8 VAC) Wht-Grn , Wht-Grn actual (12.2 VAC)

(80 VAC) Wht , Wht actual (86.4 VAC)

(18 VAC) Gry / Gry-Wht / Gry-Grn actual (19.6 VAC) & (19.6 VAC)

(100 VAC) Violet , Violet actual (109.5 VAC)

1 week later
#15 10 years ago

Just got the transformer back from the winding shop, they were able to correct the specific 9vac winding that supplies voltage to the +5vdc logic circuit.
All game resets are gone now.....

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