First, the numbering of the wires coming from your transformer may NOT be in numerical order, nice and neatly from 1 to 9 as you have indicated.

Use the wire colours as your guide NOT their physical position on the transformer.

The MOV is a standard part BUT it does differ between 220V and 110V countries. Possibly why the original was chopped out in the first place? Suitable 110V type available here:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=76

MOV (resized).png

Correct, it doesn't matter as they are internally connected (inside the transformer).

2 x white/orange internally connected

2 x white/brown internally connected

2 x black internally connected

The other three (white/black, brown & orange) are single connections so take care where they go.

You can not use the 5610-12835-00 transformer with a DCS soundboard.

Something I found online and saved a while back:

5610-12835-00 xfmr-wpc 3 115/230v (18VAC sound) BR, BSD, BoP, CftBL, DW, FH, FT, GI, HD, HS2, Hot_Shots_Basketball, Hurricane, PZ, Slugfest_92, T2, TAF, TAFG, TZ, WH2O

5610-13491-00 xfmr-wpc power (12VAC sound) IJ, JD, Pinball_Circus, Popeye, STTNG
5610-13953-00 xfmr-wpc 94 (female line input) Corvette, DH, DM, FS, RS, Shadow, WCS

5610-14515-00 xfmer-wpc wide mount AFM, Congo, I500, JB, JM, NF, SC, SS, ToM, TotAN, WD

5610-14515-01 xfmer-wpc wide mount AFM, CC, CP, CV, Congo, I500, JB, JM, JY, MB, MM, NBA, NF, NGG, SC, SS, ToM, TotAN, WD

5610-15930-00 transformer p2000 RFM
5610-15930-01 transformer p2000 SWE1

ScreenHunter_011 (resized).jpg

http://iobium.com/wpc_transformers.htm

Those boards should be OK - the problem is with the audio board. From the Iobium site (and I suggest you read that site and study up on all the variables):

"Transformer Substitutions
The conclusion I am reaching is that all transformers after the first one (i.e. all DCS transformers) are interchangeable, but might need custom mounting brackets and a new primary connector or a connector adapter.

A DCS transformer can safely be used in a a non-DCS game, but at the cost of lower sound amplifier headroom - distortion at higher listening levels. The earlier games may also have power requirements that are a bit greater than that of newer games (larger transformer) so existing power problems could become worse.

A non-DCS transformer can be used in a DCS game, but will overdrive the amplifier supply, delivering approximately 50V to the TDA2030, which is only rated at 36V. This part gets 36V under 120VAC line input, so it is at the edge to start with. The TDA2030A is rated at 44V, and may withstand the abuse a little better. But don't be surprised if you end up rebuilding your sound output circuits if you try to adapt a non-DCS transformer into a DCS game. The 78L05 regulators used on DCS games to power the analog circuitry should be OK. They are rated for 35V operation (they see 25V in this circuit) and the op-amps and analog output that they power are low-power devices. "

No I haven't but there are no different part numbers for these boards so I am assuming they are the same across all WPC era machines.

The ONLY difference is the voltage supplied to the audio board so THAT is the ONLY board that is affected by different transformers.

Thanks for the learning on WPC Transformers and audio board voltages. I wonder if that is why I had to not use one cable from the powerboard to the Pinsound audio board.

Yes, but the revisions on those boards are for minor changes to various things NOT to the voltage supplied to them.

The ONLY board where the voltage changed was the audio board.

Use a 12v power supply plugged into the service outlet.

Yes, but any electronic stepdown also needs to be at at least 3 amps and that is a bit of a problem.

You could also use a small transformer to convert the 18V to 12V +&- but this will get messy very quickly.

I am told via a reliable source that Homepin intends to make these transformers in the near future. They currently make a replacement for the SS Bally machines. Just when is anyone's guess - you could reach out to them and ask I guess?

That would work BUT you would need 2 x 12V power supplies because the audio board needs + & - 12V and they would need to be at least 2 or 3 amp supplies

You have two threads on the same topic. Not sure why.

You can use a supplemental transformer. A possible compatible product is (BEL) Signal Transformer DP-241-8-24 (115/230 primary) or 241-8-24 (115 primary).

You can connect this into the system in an invasive or non-invasive manner. That is your choice. Personally, I always choose a non-invasive solution if one is available.

• Tap the line power after the cabinet switch for the primary winding.
• Substitute the GRY/GRY-WHT/GRY-GRN wires from the original secondary winding to the substitute secondary winding.

Pay close attention to the end and center tap as if you get these incorrect you will supply incorrect voltages and probably blow components on the DCS board. You can verify all the voltages before connecting J4 on the DCS board.

transformer_secondary_audio.jpg

I can't speak for pins4u but I would assume it will get messy because you'll have to route either the two 18VAC or the single 36VAC secondary outputs to a special transformer with the correct ratio to step down either 18VAC to 12VAC or 36VAC to 24VAC with a center tap. The next owner of the machine may look at the wires and get confused.

Well ... considering the DCS board has a 3A SB fuse in it then I would assume 4A is sufficient. The next output level down is (I believe) 2.4A so that might work but it's below the 3A fuse rating so it may not provide enough "juice" when needed. I say it's "possibly compatible" that's due to the fact that I have not tried it in a physical (real) machine. I use a small version of this transformer on my bench and it works on my bench. I only drive a 2" 8 Ohm speak on my bench - hence why the "possible".

There are many ways to wire it in. You can run wire from the secondary through the cabinet bundle up to the board or you can connect into the already present wire in the bundle. Using the existing wire in the bundle saves you having to run separate wire but you will have to alter the connectors. When you alter the connector you should probably document what you've done so the next owner won't get confused or will have an idea of what the modification is trying to accomplish.

OR buy the right transformer for the game and sell the wrong one. OR even trade it. I see alot of things going wrong now and in the future trying to modify and tying into wires and changing connectors, etc. But that is just me. I waited 6 months for the right transformer to come along. Then I posted a Wanted Ad here and got two offers.

Transformer0 (resized).jpg

Agree that the correct transformer is the way to go but sometimes transformers can be difficult to acquire. It can take some time. The DCS transformers are used in a handful of machines. The pre-DCS transformers are used in many more machines. Used in more machines typically means more likely (easier) to find.

• 5610-12835-00 used in 19 machines with high total production quantity.
• 5610-13953-00 used in 7 machines with low total production quantity.

Creative, alternative solutions can get a game running in the meantime.

Well, it all depends on HOW patient you are. Like I mentioned, Homepin is said to be making a universal one that will replace both types but I have no concrete knowledge of this.

As Pinball Life sells the Bally replacement transformer that Homepin makes, I would be inclined to call them and ask?

Where Can I find a WPC Transformer? Missing completely.

Just use a pinsound Dmdlux board.....problem solved.

That is what I did. And am happy with the result, 6 months later.

So Homepin Transformer and use a Pinsound DMD Driver board?

The Dmd lux board will handle both voltages and will work with all Wpc era machines. Just built my Attack from Mars with a wpc89 transformer this way and it's perfect.

Maybe wait for a transformer then.

did you find ? i have for one that i would like to trade for a wpc95 one, i keep it in case i don't find..