(Topic ID: 270536)
No is my vote. I'd be surprised if that circuit provided enough current to light the LED with that thin wire.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:No is my vote. I'd be surprised if that circuit provided enough current to light the LED with that thin wire.
Thanks, I was leaning this way as I'm assuming this wire will burn open at some point due to heat fatigue, but probably not right away.
My best guess is there will be some odd issues during game play when the wire cant support the demanded load and since this wire is providing the return path for unregulated 12 volts, I imagine the issues will seem very sporadic until the jumper fails.
Solder wick works well for fixing through holes. I use the widest one I can fit in with the lead of the part, which normally is the width of the traces leading to the feedthrough on both sides of the board.
Here is a good video on repairing them correctly. You would have to have difference sizes of eyelets and different size/type of pads and traces depending on how bad the damage is. There are different repair kits available online.
Wellesley, ON
Hard to see how small the wire is in the picture, but if it's anything close to the guage of a small capacitor, resistor ect, that is plenty big enough.
Chesterfield, MO
I use three strands of wire pirated from a multi strand wire and twisted together. The three strands provide at least the same current carrying capacity as the fat trace does. That single strand won't cut it. If it's a resistor leg then OK. I don't use those because I want to wrap the stitch around the component leg on the solder side.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
The prior guy has too much solder on the top side too. That might not allow the cap to sit flush.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
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