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(Topic ID: 130936)

WPC Start button light does not work. HS II

By alimerick

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by SPARKY70
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#1 5 years ago

Working on Getaway HSII.
The start button works and will start a game. The light does not work. Bulb or led bulb is good. Checked with meter and get a pulsing about .5 volts when credits are on the game. If it worked the light would flash. Not great with a meter. Put new connector on power driver board end. Does not work with OEM power driver board or new Rotten Dog driver board. Have tried several start buttons all the same result. Only thing left I can think of is the WPC coin door interface board. Does not look like there is much to it. Do not see any for sale or they are out of stock. Looks like they cost about $30.00 so probably not worth sending for repair. Everything else works and the wires are attached where they are supposed to be looking at the manual. Not the end of the world if the light does not work but curious why it does not? Do not have another coin door interface board to try.
Thanks for the help.

#2 5 years ago

I would check out the lamp socket. Power comes in, and then goes to the bulb, so you have two places to check for power.

#3 5 years ago

I put the meter on the lamp socket and got the .5 volt pulse. Lamp socket is in the start button and have tried several start buttons new and used. ?

#4 5 years ago

I have the same problem on my JD. I narrowed it down to the trace on the coin door interface board. There is a diode there that tested bad. I'm going to replace that diode to see if it fixes the problem. Won't be able to get to it for a couple weeks though.

#5 5 years ago

The start button lamp is part of the lamp matrix. If you are on free play it should flash. If on coin, only when there are credits will it flash.

So given you have a good lamp, socket and wiring the problem may in the lamp matrix.

So you should go into lamp test and check your lamps associated with the row and column associated with the start button lamp.

Look at the lamp matrix chart on manual page 3.2 -- manual available on ipdb.

If all the lamps test good (in the row and column) associated with the start button lamp, then you problem is not board related.

#6 5 years ago

I assumed you did this already. The start button lamp is part of the lamp matrix but the coin door interface board is part of the circuit for that one lamp. There's a diode on the board for that lamp for some reason. At least this is true for JD, I assume it's the same for HS II but not certain.

#7 5 years ago

Yes all the other lights test and work correctly. Yes coin door interface board has a diode for start button lamp. Perhaps something to do with getting like .5 volt pulse instead of enough to light lamp.

#8 5 years ago

If you have a digital multi meter you can put it in diode mode to check the diode. Here's a link with the procedure

#9 5 years ago

All of the controlled lamps have a diode in their circuit to the driver board. You can make some fundamental continuity tests between the driver board and your non-working controlled lamp.

The Yellow/Blue wire on the lamp socket is wired directly to J137 pin 9 on the driver board. This is power in to the lamp.
So you should have continuity between the Yellow/Blue lamp connector to J137 pin 9 on the driver board.

The other wire on the lamp socket goes to the coin door interface board and is connected at J6 pin 4. This is connected to the anode of diode D1.

The arrow/line side or cathode is routed to J1 pin 2. You should have continuity from the cathode side of the diode to the driver board J133 pin 9 (Red/Gray wire.) This is connected to a circuit that provides ground when the light is pulsed.

You can test the diode on the coin door interface board using diode test for D1 as has been previously suggested.

In the remote case there are two diodes on your push button switch, one diode for the switch and another for the lamp it may be oriented incorrectly. You can just swap the lamp connectors to the socket.

#10 5 years ago

Tried swaping the wires to the socket. Borrowed another coin door interface board that is known working and thats not it. Verfied several times that the wires are connected to the correct places. Changed the connector on the driver board. Thought continuity was good because I get the .5 volt pulse. Not able to get to this machine again until next weekend. Will read about using a digital meter but of the 2 meters I have one is 40 + years old gauge type and the other is digital but a harbor freight 5 dollar special. Thinking when I have time and can order more connectors of replacing both the wires.
Thank You

#11 5 years ago

Coincidently, I am currently having the same problem on my HSII.
Would it be too confusing for me to jump in on this thread, or should I start another?

When pressing start button during single lamp test, info says the pins are 134 pin 9 (red/grey) and 137 pin 6 (yellow/blue) although my red/grey is at 135 pin 9 and yellow/blue is at 138 pin 6.
I believe this is OK. Am I correct?
I also see that the red wire passes through the coin board. Thanks. Sparky

#12 5 years ago

All answers in one picture:

HS2 -lmp68.jpg

#13 5 years ago

Are you also checking on AC v. Or DC v.

Those lamps should be AC. Also you said Led bulb. Some cheaper bulbs only work on DC v.

And also some bulbs are polarity sensitive, so turning the bulb 180deg. Will make a non working bulb work if there are no issues.

#14 5 years ago

Wow zaza, that's a great pic, that really narrows it down visually. Did you make the diagram?

My bulb is good,
Socket is good,

I tested my diode d1 on the board, it tested out of spec. So my dumb question is, can I jump past the diode to confirm the diode is bad without harm?
Thanks. Sparky

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

Did you make the diagram?

Yes, this morning (GMT+1) during the coffee wake up.

Quoted from SPARKY70:

can I jump past the diode to confirm the diode is bad without harm?

Yes, be careful not to touch other diodes because they are 'switch matrix' and they don't like each other.

#16 5 years ago

ill try to jump past the diode carefully
thanks again.

#17 5 years ago

Wow Thank You. Printed the diagram. Please jump in. Hope we all can figure out. Tried several bulbs and a led button bulb. Tried several start buttons old and new. They all work to start a game if there are credits. Replaced the connector at J 138. Waiting for more connectors and some time to get to the game. Could try new

#18 5 years ago


#19 5 years ago

Figured it out for this HSII. There are 2 Red-Grey wires going to J-133, J-135 # 9. One on a single connector and one on the populated connector. Both were on the fully populated connector with one being in the 4th place next to the key. Moved that one to # 9 on a connector by itself. That got the start button bulb to work. There are also 2 Yellow- Blue wires that need to be the same. One to populated connector at J- 138 #6 and another to a connector by itself at J-137 # 6. I Think the connector positions that are the same with the same keys are inter-changeable.
Thank You all.

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from alimerick:

I Think the connector positions that are the same with the same keys are inter-changeable.

Yes they are interchangeable, in the picture you can see the thin lines connecting each other in parallel.

#21 5 years ago

Changed the diode on the coin board, all is good now. Thanks!!

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