(Topic ID: 282364)

WPC Scared Stiff Multiple Optos Mis-registering / Confused

By xeneize

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by xeneize
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#3 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Gang:
Scared Stiff recently started registering false opto closures.
It is sporadic and across what seems to be all (or at least, most) of the optos. All of a sudden, you will get credit for hitting a ramp, or a locked ball, or entering the crate.
Every once in a while you can play a game without issue, other times the false closures start immediately with Ball 1.
I have repinned the .156 connector on the 16 opto board under the playfield and confirmed that I was getting proper voltage there. When that didn't resolve the issue, I replaced the 16 opto board with a new one from dumbass . Still no resolution.
So, it does not appear to be any one opto in particular, or a trough or a 16 opto board issue. I have not repinned the .100 connectors on the board, but they look good.
Again, the game was working 100% and was not moved or the target of an "event" which would provide a clue.
Any input is appreciated - thank you!

Re-pin the .100 connectors. Any corrosion on the MPU? Or associated header pins? Let's try and rule out some obvious failures.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

No corrosion on the board and NVRAM installed. I was doing some more observing last night and even experienced two resets.
Before I start doing more connector work, is it conceivable that I have an intermittent power issue that is contributing to both the simultaneous closure of multiple optos and now, system resets?

Yes

I use this board to assist with reset issues as my starting point.

https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

Also, start measuring all your voltages on your power board

1 week later
#8 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Installed the Kahr Pro Daughter board (man, that thing is sweet).
First night, the game played much better and I only detected one or two false opto closures over the span of 6 test games.
The next night it immediately began failing again with multiple false closures across simultaneously. False closures include: ramps, locks, crate, trough, etc.
Testing my voltage at the board, everything checks out on both the driver and the MPU. All of my LEDS are also lit/unlit/blinking as expected.
So, back at the well and looking for some help.
Thanks!

Did the Kahr board reveal anything? I know it is tough to watch the board and play. I usually set up my phone to record while playing to see what the board lights are indicating, if anything.

It still seems as if you are getting low/high voltage somewhere that is triggering these closures.

Are these closures all in the same row/column in the switch matrix?

I wonder if you have cold/cracked solder joints on the driver or MPU board perhaps and once the game heats up, stuff starts acting crazy and the Kahr board can't stabilize enough.

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Well, I have not had any resets since the install. At one point, after all the switches went nuts, the Kahr board was lit solid blue (indicating that the 12V had dropped below 9V).
All of the optos are located between two columns (3&4) in the matrix (attached).
I don't think that the game warming up is a factor as I can power it up (after 24 hours of inactivity) and it immediately begin suffering from false switch openings.
[quoted image]

Have you looked at the header pins on the Power Driver Board for cracked/cold solder joints or other areas on the board for similar issues? I would say you have issues with your 12 volt section on the Power Board, which you can test the Bridge Rectifiers BR1 and BR5

#12 3 years ago

I know this is a long shot, but have you cleaned all the optos?

1 month later
#14 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Bumping this back to the top. All optos are clean and check out.
My 12V regulated continues to sit at 11.7. Is that acceptable?
When I tried to play last night, the very first game had optos all over the place registering (as open) erroneously. The Kahr board is still lit steady green.
So, we know it is not header pins, the opto board, or bad opto switches.

This reminds me of what my Dr. Who did and It came down to a set of .062 connectors in the lower cabinet being worn out and not making good contact with each other(male-female)

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

eyeamred2u
Where did you have .062 connectors in the lower cab?
I can definitely replace any of those if suspect.

I had a block feeding my opto board for the time expander, just had to trace my wires. It was done so the Time expander unit could be removed/installed. Not sure your game will have something similar, but ya never know until you start looking. Was a real PIA. They fed from the MPU, to the Block then to the Opto board then to the Time expander. Was a head scratcher when it happened.

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