H All, i recently purchased a RED and TED RS.
it has been one of my kids favorite games, so when a decent one became available locally, i picked it up.

the game is in overall nice shape.

i tested the game upon purchase and all coils/ flashers/ motors worked correctly except reds eyeballs and eyelids, as well as teds eyeballs and eyelids.

i have been working on my games for about 5 years now, so i have a pretty good understanding of how most things work, so first on the agenda was to get all these eyes working.

i now have 2 problems with the game.

problem 1

looking through diagnostics, i saw that all solenoids (#9-16) for the eyes went through fuse #104.

i pulled and tested 104, and i tested good.
i visually noticed that fuse 105 was possibly bad, it looked like it just had a small imperfection, so i pulled and tested 105, and it was in fact bad.

i then replaced the fuse with the CORRECT 3a slow blow fuse.

when i powered the game back on, REDS eyelids CLOSED, while TEDS remained OPEN,
and i got smoke from the power driver board in the backbox.

i immediately powered off the game, and removed the new fuse 105.

i double checked the fuse, it did not blow, and is in fact 3a SB.

driver board is still in game, but it appears that it smoked from vicinity of transistor Q56, but R97 and possibly R96 look fried.

odd thing here is that diagnostics and manual say:
fuse 104 controls #9-16, and that fuse 105 controls 1-8,
although 1-8 were working fine with blown fuse 105,
while 9-16 were not working with good fuse 104.

something is wrong here.....can anybody clear this up?

problem #2

fuse 105 is still removed.

since i figured i can live with the eyes not working till i get the driver board straight, i decided to use my time to replace some of the burned out insert bulbs.

i put game into all lamps test, lifted the playfield, and being very careful since power was on, i replaced about 6 bulbs.
all bulbs are traditional incandescent (no leds).

old bulbs tested as bad, and new bulbs worked as they should.

i go back to the coin door switches, and coin door switches are not working.

i power game off then on, i then get "GND. SHORT ROW 1 IS STUCK CLOSED" message.
also dozer motor (sol 23) runs a few seconds, trough (sol 1) activates a few times while lock kick out (solactivates 6x, then lock up pin (sol 4) activates one time.

i know power should be off, but was careful not to short anything out.
it is possible, that something shorted anyhow, so lesson learned.

what i have done so far:

first off, NO CORROSION NOTED ON CPU. this CPU has the standoff battery holder from the factory.
NO CORROSION OR SIGNS THEREOF on switch wires or connectors 205,206,207,208 or 212.
i pulled battery holder off CPU, and NO CORROSION underneath holder.

keep in mind, that i have no use of diagnostic switches at this point.

i visually checked all 64 switches from the switch matrix for grounding, and tugged lightly on each diode checking for loose diodes.

i went down switch row one, and disconnected the slam tilt from the interface board, trough connectors,spinner connector right ramp and coin door one at a time and still get the error. i checked switches for teds mouth, left sling,and white standup, and all seem to be working correctly.

then using my dmm, i checked 212,207,209 and 205 for continuity to ground strap.
i did not get a buzz tone.

i pulled coin door connector from interface, and checked all switches. all seem to be working correctly.

i pulled the connector from the 7 opto board under playfield with no change. i even replaced the 7 opto board with a spare that (should be) working correctly. but having pulled the connectors i believe 7 opto board is not the problem.

i also disconnected the 3 eddy switches, with no change,

i pulled 212,207,209 connectors while leaving 205 (orange wires) connected.
GND. SHORT ROW 1 IS STUCK CLOSED error remains.

supposedly that means problem is on CPU.

however, i had a problem with my WPC95 where the diagnostic switches stopped working and I was convinced that it was on CPU. after removing the CPU a few times over a three month period, one day they just started working again...?

as on all WPC-S CPU, my U20 is socketed, but i do not have a chip available. my U16,17,18,19 are not. im not comfortable changing these.

research tells me U20 is not for dedicated switches, but is it possible dedicated switches are out due to U20 being bad?

i have a WPC95, plus a WPC non S CPU available.
I dont believe either of these can be used to test in game.. correct?

is it possible problem 2 is related to problem1? i think they would not be.

i will see if i can locate a chip for U20 locally.

i think i should get switches working again before sorting out the eye issue.

what else can i do to figure this out?

meanwhile my kids keep asking when they can play it....OUCH.....ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED!!... thanks/sparky

Hi zaza. Thanks for your interest in helping me.

Unless im doing something wrong. I seem to only be getting about 1v at j210-7.

I just pulled j210 and tested pin 1 and 7 as you suggested. Diode seems good. .5xx.

Pulled fuse 115. It tests good.

Im not ready to cut leg of u18-3 at this time.

Maniac, i didnt pull u20. I thought i didnt need to unless the diode test was close to zero. Should i pull and test since diode seems good?

Also tested TP1 on driver board. Shows 14.xxv.

Also noticed that LED 1 on driver board is dim compared to the rest. Thanks. Sparky

Zaza. I will test now. Also, please see my last post above yours, i seemed to post at same time as you. Thanks.

Just pulled 114.
Fuse shows -.03
D2 keeps rising. I saw it go as high as 45 and still going.

Keep in mind fuse 105 is currently REMOVED.

Hi zaza. I will have to continue later tonight, or tomorrow. I have to bring the kids to a halloween party right now. Dont want to keep you waiting. Thanks!! Sparky.

Yes 45 at D2
-04.8 at TP8 with j114 removed. Thanks

Yes zaza. Just rechecked.

Black to ground strap. Red to test location.
Dmm on vdc. No fingers touching.

Machine has ground braid throughout.

All measurements same as above.
D2 rises as much as 45 and would go higher if left longer. Thanks

Coyote, I just tried TP5 GRN as ground (under TP7 20v)

Is this a good spot or should i try somewhere else? Thanks

DSBDBB i just plugged 114 in, and LED 6 is off.

DSB, not sure i understand exactly. I know BR1,and i probably cant get to the legs, but do i put red on fuse114, and black on ground, or on 101-7?

Do i put black lead on ground for each if the tests above, or someplace else? Thanks.

Ok. Dmm on acv.
Game power on.
101 connected.

14.1 at fuse side closest to 101
.461 at far side of fuse.

Please also note that i have fuse 105 removed due to it causing a problem explained in post #1.
Should i replace fuse, or leave it out? Thanks. Sparky

I thought that was odd. I will go check on that right now.

Ok. Fuse 114 is blown.

Book calls for 8a 32v normal blow

Blown fuse says:
MDL 3 250v
I assume 3 is 3a, which would be much lower than called for.

I have some fuses marked:
311 3ag 8a 32v

Also:
8a 250v 312

And a bunch of:
8amp 250v slow blows

I read somewhere that 32v or 250v does not matter. Correct?

Im sure the sliw blows are not a good replacement, but hiw are the others i listed?

Thanks homepin.
How do i know if they are slow blow or normal blow?

My slow blows are marked on the package, but the others are loose.

Are either of the first two i listed good replacements? Thanks

AWESOME!!!!

That was the fix!!

First i want to say a BIG "THANK YOU" to
DSB, zaza, maniac, coyote and homepin for taking the time to help with this issue.

I never would have guessed that a switch grounding error message, could be caused by this blown fuse.

Seems silly to me now that i should have checked all fuses, but it seemed to be MUCH worse than that a blown fuse.
What a terrible feeling it was, but now im all smiles that its playable again!!

Now that problem 2 is solved. Id love to get problem 1 squared away.

Is it strange that my fuse 105 controlls sol 9-16 when book says it should be 1-8?

DSB, thanks for checking into fuse 105 for me.

I will need to do the board work for sure.

Im curious why Q56 area burned up so easily, without blowing fuse 105 instead.

I will have to take ted apart soon to inspect, and most likely replace the coil.

Zaza, thank you again for your AMAZING diagrams. They are straight and to the point.
A year ago, you posted a diagram for me, for a start button light issue, i was impressed then and never forgot it.
This red/ted eye diagram you just posted will surely help. I noticed that you even seperated the coils by male/female with pink/blue highlights.

My thinking right now is that i should be able to disconnect the Molex connector at TEDS head, and replace fuse 105.

The connector at ted is only for eye/lid movement. His mouth and dozer are completely seperate.

This SHOULD give me full playability, and a fully working RED head, until i get some free time to pull ted apart, Repair his problem, and repair Q56 section.

I think that should not cause any further board damage.

What are the thoughts on this???
Just being overly cautious.

Again thanks to all for helping me fix what seemed like a big problem and narrowing it down to a little fuse.

From now on i will check fuses just incase.

Now im about to let the kids get their first plays on our RS. THANKS!!

Hi guys. Been very hectic the past few days. Finally got a chance to disconnect ted, and put fuse 105 back in.

Red works great, so ill get to ted as soon as i get the time again.

Otherwise gameplay is great, and my kids (and wife) are really enjoying it thanks to everyones help.

Thanks again!! Sparky