Hi. I noticed during test mode that the GI lights on my Shadow dont dim during GI test. They are at full brightness all the time.
I assume that they should dim on the shadow. Can anyone confirm?
I read in another post that adjustment #25 "allow dim illum" needs to be set to yes, and mine IS set to yes. Is there anything else i can check?
I am running tradional bulbs, NOT LEDS. Can anybody confirm if The Shadow actually uses the dimming effect. I will post my rom version, soon. Thanks. Sparky

Tiesmasc, thanks fir the link. Seems like they should dim.

Zaza. Ive got rom LX-5. Change history looks like there was no change for GI lights from mine to LX-6.

Not sure what zerocrossing is, but i will look into reseating ribbon, and U9. Ill post results. Thanks. Sparky

Thanks zaza,i assume you have LX6, not LF-6.
i just checked out your link. Unfortunately, i dont have an oscilloscope.
Is there a way i can test without one?
I will press on U9, and reseat ribbon cable. I just want to make sure i am pressing U9 square chip on CPU?? Also which ribbon are you referring to, driver board to cpu J211? Thanks

Zaza. I just tested continuity from TP4 to U9-71, and it is GOOD.

Just checked. It is 00.8/00.7

I love uour diagrams as always.
Thank you for your continued help.

Thanks zaza, ill look into a frequency tester. Im still not 100% sure if they should dim during test T6 with my rom LX-5. Maybe there is nothing wrong???

I also noticed an unusual small circuit board connected to J205 on the CPU, with a red wire connected to C31. Pic attatched. Do you know if this is original, or not? Also do you know what this is? Thanks. Sparky

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Better pic of small circuit board.

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Interesting to know about the coin pulse board. Im guessing i can remove it if it is not necessary.

I have one other unlnown.

There are 2 white wires coming from the bottom of the universal power interface assembly (A-17540). They run to the backbox, but are taped off there with electrical tape. Everything is working on my game orher than this GI thing, so im not sure what they can be. Pics Attached. Thanks

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Zaza, i just disconnected the ribbon cable, then powered up the game. The GI lights all stayed OFF, as you say they should.

As for the two loose white wires, they come from the bottom of the power interface and end at the bottom of the backbox near the DMD display. I noticed that the BROWN DMD wire looks like it may have been spliced into at one time, and then "unspliced" leaving 2 inches of white wire.
Any idea why someone might need to do this? Other than that. All other wiring seems factory.

Ive never looked into a power interface box, but ill do so carefully and unplugged, to see exactly where they originate. Thanks

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Hi coyote, thats exactly what im thinking. I would imagine that it SHOULD dim in test mode no matter what.
There is a slight possibility, that the rom version i have could have a mistake.
Id hate to keep looking for a problem that may not exist. It would be interesting to see if i got a newer rom, and the GI lights suddenly started to dim in the test. I wish somebody with ROM LX-5 could confirm either way. Hopefully somebody with it will come across this post. Till then, ill keep looking into it. Thanks. Sparky

Interesting to know. You are probably right. Im just wishful thinking about the rom, thats why i said ill keep looking into it.
Do you have any ideas other than what zaza has already gone through with me? I dont have an oscilloscope, but will ask a couple of people that may have. I read something sbout BR2, but according to zaza, after doing a test he suggested, its probably not on the driver board.

Hi zaza, if i understand correctly, you are saying i dont need an actual oscilloscope, but can use a multimeter with a frequency function instead. I have two different low end multimeters. I dont believe they have a frequency function, but i posted pics of both, incase your keen eye would be able to spot the frequency ability. Orherwise i will try to pick ip a meter with the frequency function. Thanks

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Thanks. I will see if i can get a hold of one. I believe it must have the HZ setting.

If there is a problem with the zerocrossing, what are the possibilities that could be wrong? Thanks

Yes i pressed on U9, but i just pressed on it a few more times just in case, but no difference. I gave a quick visual inspection to U6, nothing visual to report. I will look for a Hz meter to further test.

Hi maniac, you are correct about the battery terminal corrosion.
Funny thing is, as you were writing that post, i had taken the battery board off, and looked at it. It was only on the 2 terminal ends, and everything else was clean. I cleaned it up as good as possible, installed new batteries, and mounted the board off to the side.
I like that the WPCS boards have the seperate battery board. Thanks.
Also, see my next post.

Hi zaza, i have some interesting news about the GI.
I have been going over this game thoroughly, and shopping it all out. I discovered the GI issue while running through all the tests. I got the game all back together, and playing yesterday, but noticed that it was resetting when coils would fire, during multiball etc. Typical watchdog circuit resets.

I thought it may have been low voltage from my garage outlet, so i gave it a test, and it was 122 volts. I then went to the pinwiki, to go down the line of possibilities. I checked the convenience outlet, and it was good with game on and off. I reseated the transformer connections, but was still getting resets.
I then reseated J101, and then the resets diminished significantly. Out of curiosity, i checked on the GI DIMMING, and now the GI dim during the test as they should.

So GI problem solved??

Thank you so much again for your time and guidance on this issue. Ive learned some new things along the way. I will now keep my eyes out for a new meter with an HZ setting.

I also read up a little on the coin doubler board. You are correct, the board allows the software to give a credit with 1 coin drop instead if 2. From what i read, williams made the software require a minimum of 2 coin drops, and this board bipasses that issue making 1 coin act as 2.
My game had been set to FREE PLAY since i obtained it. I turned off free pay to see how the doubler works, then found out i have one more issue to fix.
My left coin slot is inoperable. Right coin slot works fine. I tested the coin switch, and it is good. Im going to have to start checking further into this left coin circuit now. Thanks. Sparky

Hi guys, had trouble posting today.
You're right zaza, Definately not rom related.

Turns out the left coin switch is now wotking after it was shut down last night, and powered up today. I didnt even get a chance to try anything. I was wondering if the wire could be bad from the switch to the coin board. I opened and closed the door numerous times without disruption. I will get a pic up of J205 tomorrow. Going to sleep now. Thanks for your continued help!! Sparky

Hi maniac here are the pics of j205. On my board 205 is the bottom connection. There is a coin doubler board attatched to my 205. It may be faulty, so i bypassed it just incase. All connections look clean to me. Pics attatched. Thanks. Sparky

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Hi zaza, i opened up the power interface board, to see where the 2 white wires went. They are connected to a green thing that i believe is not factory installed. There are also 3 thin wires grey, black and white that are spliced into my factory harness near the tilt bob. They connect to orange/white
Grey/yellow
Black
And as mentioned earlier, i believe the two thicker white wires were spliced into the BROWN DMD wire.
Do you know what this stuff is all about? I assume that i can safely remove all this.
The rest of the power interface seems normal inside.
I am under the impression that this game was once outside the USA, since it has an X rom, and interface board sticker says 5 amp fuse. I am in the USA.
Pics attatched. Thanks sparky

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Thanks for the info and link zaza. The other guy had the same exact green thing in their interface box.
From what i could figure out, it delays the DMD so it dosent display during boot up.
Supposedly there were problems with vendors of exported games. I believe this was why they created the wpc-"S" in the first place.

When the game boots up, the DMD would display a code to identify the game or vendor. The green box actually has dip switches that control the delay time. From 1 second to about 10 minutes.

It seems to be powered by the 3 small wires.
The BROWN DMD wire was cut, and then extended by the white wire that runs through the green box timer, then back to light the DMD with the other white wire after the set time.

Mine was set to 1 minute, but was already bypassed when i obtained my game, so the DMD turned on normally.

I ended up removing the whole thing.

My coin switches seem to be working fine now. The coin doubler may have an intermittant problem, so i disconnected it.

All i have left to figure out now is the occasional watchdog resets. It seems to reset the most when first powered up, then works fine even through most multiballs, but sometimes will still reset during multiball. Thanks. Sparky

Hi zaza, just wanted to send a personal thank you to you for your time and effort with my "WPC-S GI question".

Your thoughful suggestions, terrific schematics and advice to get a meter with Hz setting have helped me learn a few new things.

Also for your pointing me in the right direction with the coin doubler board, and green timer box used to delay power to the DMD.

You really seem to know the WPC system very well, and have inspired me to seek more information on how these boards are laid out to make understanding them less confusing.

Thank you again. SPARKY

Hopefully ill know enough for you to retire someday........