Wow, you really got confused there. Stop measuring voltages, and go look at the switch matrix in test. What does it look like? Any rows or columns stuck on?

Also I would be amazed if this had anything to do with high voltage. Probably doesn't have anything to do with no lamps/no GI, either. Where's your other thread?

Oh my. David led you totally wrong on that. Your problem was clearly with the opto board, I'm afraid. It has two bad transistors. Ok, reading further...

Ok, so what exactly is the door message you're getting?

If it's coin door open, what happens when you close the coin door when it's in switch test?

And dear god, please tell me the coin door was closed when you got the message, or I may have to jump off a cliff.

Oh, wow, that opto board doesn't have transistors. Ooookie....still think it's the opto board though.

Ok, well, that's probably where your high voltage problem is coming from. Do all the other switches in row 2 and column 2 work?

Ok, it's late and I wanna go to bed. Assuming the answer to the previous post is "yes", you either plugged stuff in wrong or shouldn't have unsevered that trace. Make sure your door interlock is plugged in like on page 4 of your manual. That should solve the issue of your high voltage.

I don't care that pin 7 of u19 is low. Pin 7 is linked to switch row 8, which is very far down on our list of stuff that might be wrong.

As for the original problem, I'd test the diodes on the 7 opto board first. If those are fine, swap out those LM339's on the 7 opto board.

Regarding your GI, I'm highly suspecting you plugged in a cable wrong. If there's no GI and no controlled lamps, and no solonoids and no flashers, check that the cable from the mpu to the power board is in right. Make sure the red stripe is to pin 1 on both ends. It's kind of upside down of the way you would think it goes. You might have also knocked the gi power plug out at J115, but with no controlled lamps? I'd bet my breakfast the mpu isn't talking to the driver board. Either that, or you fried all the data lines. But if you're confident enough with electronics to socket chips, you probably didn't do anything that bad. Probably.

It may very well fix the voltage, but I still don't see how this is related to the door.

Sorry, just in a pissy mood at the moment. Shouldn't pin three have continuity with ground?

The schematic that earflaps posted in the other thread says 3 is ground and 12 is 12v *shrug* But then I've seen so many pinball schematics with U? labeled chips, I would not be surprised if that was an error.

Ooo, I didn't know about those, earflaps. Nice!