So how many mods do you have hooked up ? I know you love your mods lol.

That daughter board is nice for a quick fix or the occasional low line voltage resets during summer months but the issue needs to be resolved the right way imo

Are you running an air conditioner on the same line as the pin?
Happen to me the airconditioner was dropping the wall voltage down to 116volts.
My CFTBL would reset every time until we plugged it into a different outlet not on the same breaker as the air conditioner.

The kahr board is more or less a band aid which doesn't actually fix the underlying problem.

Here is a troubleshooting guide to get you started:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Yes, follow that guide (or Clays guide) 9/10 times the repairs to the main power board will fix it.

However, we have found lately that a number of early WPC boards are being effected by the blue Philips caps (there are some on each board) drying out. They are over 20 years old now ... we have had a Dredd and a WCS both effected by this, we did all the usual fixes to the main power board, and they were better, but they would still occasionally reset. Going through each board and replacing the blue caps sorted it. Both these machines had been in storage a long time ... I don't know if that had played a part in the caps demise.

Do all the tantalum caps while you're at it, they are 20 years old now and are all about to die. I had a Fish Tales sound board shoot out sparks like the 4th of July a few weeks ago, luckily I was standing there staring at it when I fired it up. All from a expired tantalum.

rd

tantalium caps usually look somewhat like raindrops.

The long rectangles are resistors with a wattage rating of 5W or more. The reason they are so much bigger than the standard 1/4w resistors you're accustomed to seeing is that they can handle more current and dissipate the heat better.

On the PCB, there are various letters and numbers printed, such as R22, Q5, C23, etc. The letters give you an idea of what the component is--
R = resistor
D = diode
C = capacitor
F = fuse
Q = transistor
TP = test point (for checking voltage)
J = Connector Jack
P = Connector Plug
L or LED = LED
W (or sometimes J) = jumper
BR = Bridge Rectifier
SR = Serial Resistor network

The number that follows the letter is a reference to where you can find the labeled component on the parts list or schematics so you can find the part number or attributes of that component.

Just went down this path this last weekend with my Creech - followed the guide (I was going to put in the Kahr board, but never needed to - btw) got to the +5V measurement between the driver & mpu and realized the delta was high - and since the header pins had been replaced (as both MPU and driver had been gone through by Clive) I figured it was time to take the wire harness out and possible redo the IDC connectors - wrereupon I realized the power harness between the MPU and driver took a nice little trip up to the Fliptronics board at J904..... reseated that - voltage came back up at the MPU - no more resets...not saying this directly applies to you - but a nice little thing to note for others....must say J904 was never mentioned in the guide...just something I did....

That could also cause issues over time

My Roadshow started having resets and the Kahr board solved the problem nicely for a year or more.
Then the problem came back and I had to have the driver board rebuilt correctly.
Yes, Kahr board will help and may solve the problem, but you may eventually need to fix it by rebuilding.

Add on boards to fix these problems are nothing more than temporary band-aids that don't work for all problems and do not address the actual issues. Bane of my existence! No such thing as a magic bullet.