(Topic ID: 195313)

WPC: removing flipper leaf switches, putting optos back in

By MeEtc

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by MeEtc
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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wiring flpbttn.jpg
#1 6 years ago

I own a World Cup Soccer that has leaf switches for flipper buttons, and the original opto switches are gone. I've recently purchased replacement rottendog boards, but I need assistance with wiring them. The board has labels for SW1, SW2, GND, GND, (key), +12v, +12V but the wires in the cabinet are unlabeled, and are just bare wire ends.

Need assistance matching wire colours to where they go on the opto board.

Possibly another related question, the flipper coils get excessively hot when in use for a while, I'm thinking that maybe only high power is being applied to the coils, and never switching over to low power? Do the flipper optos have something to do with this, or is it controlled only on the fliptronic board?

#2 6 years ago

Put a meter on the wires to figure out what is what if not in the manual.

Only thing that optos might make hot is if they are dirty and slightly closed. Since you don't have optos in there now, I'd check for worn parts, binding parts, a tiny bit of up and down play on the flipper shaft.

LTG : )

#3 6 years ago

If we can trust the manual, it must be something like this:

wiring flpbttn.jpgwiring flpbttn.jpg

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from MeEtc:

Possibly another related question, the flipper coils get excessively hot when in use for a while, I'm thinking that maybe only high power is being applied to the coils, and never switching over to low power? Do the flipper optos have something to do with this, or is it controlled only on the fliptronic board?

The colors in the manual that zaza posted are correct. You have to wire all wires to the board, as the right board is connected THROUGH the left board.

Also - for the overheating - no, the optos wouldn't cause just the high-power to be active. They just signal the flipper board when to activate the coils. Dirty optos COULD cause the transistors to leak which would cause them to get hot - but if they're hot with leafe switches, then a transistor may just be leaking.
You can tell if the Hold coil is active at all by manually trying to push the flipper down - if you do, once the EOS is opened, the Fliptronics board will re-activate the power coil, and you'll feel it.

2 weeks later
#5 6 years ago

For anyone who finds this topic in the future, I found the solution to the overheating coils. The end of stroke switches are supposed to be normally open, the ones on my game were set to normally closed. I noticed that when forcing the flippers back down while activated, the high power turned OFF, rather than turning on. Reversed the switches, and they're working correctly.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from MeEtc:

For anyone who finds this topic in the future, I found the solution to the overheating coils. The end of stroke switches are supposed to be normally closed, the ones on my game were set to normally open. I noticed that when forcing the flippers back down while activated, the high power turned OFF, rather than turning on. Reversed the switches, and they're working correctly.

You have other issues going on there. Wrong coils ? Wired wrong ? somebody converted to pre fliptronic flippers ?

Your game is fliptronics - EOS switches are open when the flipper is at rest.

LTG : )

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

EOS switches are open when the flipper is at rest.

Yes, I wrote it backwards. so were the switches.

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