(Topic ID: 158415)

WPC Power Driver Board Issues

By angryjeep

7 years ago


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  • 33 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Pin_Guy
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

I've been struggling with this machine for a while now... It had some erratic behavior that seems like it couldn't possibly be related. The first thing it did was the volume would go up on its own, in a game or attract mode and the flippers would actuate on their own. It's a -1 PDB in that game so it does have the flipper relay for non-opto flippers. I checked the dedicated ground switches and the cabinet flipper switches, all test good. Next, it started showing row 1 ground short on boot, but it was intermittent. Sometimes it would boot fine. The MPU had some battery damage and work done by the previous owner, and it was all at U20 and the LM339's so it was suspect. We put a rottendog MPU in the game, same issues. I replaced the LM339's on both opto boards as well. Next we tried isolating the issue by unplugging ALL of the switch connectors to the MPU and it still showed the row 1 ground short. Then, all of the MPU controlled lamps just quit. Every one of them. I pulled the board and put it in my STTNG. Both the row 1 ground short and the lack of controlled lamps followed the board to STTNG. So PDB for sure right? I noticed that the 12vr pin has no voltage and led 1 is off if the ground short shows up on boot but if it boots to attract mode, the led is on. The volume up and freaky flippers has not come back since I replaced the LM339's on the opto boards but I don't know what that would have to do with that. I hate to let this PDB win, my last resort is to send it our for repair. Any ideas?

#3 7 years ago

Thanks zaza! I'll check the minute I get home in a couple hours...

#5 7 years ago

No more ground short error! Bad trace between the output of Q2 and C2. Now for some reason I don't have 20V. Still no MPU controlled lights. Getting there though!

#6 7 years ago

I'm an idiot. Coin door was open. So now simply no driver output, lamps, flasher or solenoids. All voltages present on the PDB. You can start a game and switches register.

#7 7 years ago

For whatever reason everything that connects to J107 works.

#8 7 years ago

So I've read a lot of other threads and from what I can tell the voltages across the driver board are all in spec. The row short errors have all vanished since I fixed a bad trace after the LM7812. Now I cannot figure out why I have no driver output for lamps, flashers or solenoids. I can't imagine every transistor being bad and none are shorted to ground. Any ideas???

#11 7 years ago

checked the ribbon cable. I moved the board to 2 different games (another getaway and an sttng), leaving the existing ribbon cable in each game. I will definitely check again though.

#13 7 years ago

they are fine as well, but I have long suspected such. Maybe I should check continuity from each pin to the next pint on the board.

#15 7 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Not really but that should be checked too.
Do I understand correct that this powerdriverboard didn't work in HSII and ST:tng as well ?

that is correct. The game boots and will start a game, but no solenoids or mpu controlled lamps.

#17 7 years ago

I have a logic probe but I never learned how to use it. I'll see if I can find a crash course, a.k.a you tube. Thanks zaza!

#19 7 years ago

So I connect the black lead to ground, red to 5v+ correct? Also, set the probe to TTL and PULSE, correct? Also, can I do damage with a logic probe? hahaha...

#20 7 years ago

I mean, I know to be careful not to short anything, but I have wondered, what if you attached it to 12v and started probing 5v logic?

#21 7 years ago

confirmed. Pin 1 on U1 is high when you apply power and goes low when the mpu light starts flashing.

#23 7 years ago

stepped GI works. All 5 channels on all brightnesses.

#25 7 years ago

U18-1 stays high before and after boot

#27 7 years ago

Wow. Great news. It loses continuity after U1. I pinned a jumper from U1-1 to U18-1 and everything works. You are a genius!

#29 7 years ago

Did the trick! This is the best I could do without removing the chip. I figured it wasn't worth the risk.

image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

#32 7 years ago

It doesn't look like there is any damage due to caps leaking. It's odd that there is reliable continuity from pin31 to u1-1 but not from u1-1 to u2-2. There is continuity from u2-1 to u3-1 and so on so all I can figure is the trace is broken under u1 where it goes over to u2. I'm not willing to remove the chip to verify since I don't have a replacement in hand.

I would have jumpered the back but if it's on the front I will remember easier which board this one is and what I did to it.

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