How hard is it to reflow bridge 1 and 2. My game powers on and off occasionally and was told this was the problem and that it is common. It seems like it happens when the game is just turned on but after it has warmed up it works fine.
Quoted from kurtackerman:How hard is it to reflow bridge 1 and 2. My game powers on and off occasionally and was told this was the problem and that it is common. It seems like it happens when the game is just turned on but after it has warmed up it works fine.
Bunk.
Leave the iron in the box until this process calls for it...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
Work through it carefully.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
With the specific problem you are having (game is fine once warmed up), I would consider replacing the thermistor in the power box. It's only a few cents and a good place to start before hacking the boards. I would definitely not start by reflowing parts of your 20 year old board lol.
Quoted from kurtackerman:Could you post a picture of that piece please..
Kurt,
It you'll access the link, a pic of the power box where the Thermistor is located, appears at step 8.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
I have had similar problems with games resets on a couple of my WPC pins.
First check connector J101. If it looks burnt, even a little, replace both the header pins and connector.
There are also jumpers (listed below) you can add to ensure that the proper voltages get to where they need to be. I had similar resets on my IJ and TZ and this got rid of the resets and made them reliable.
BR2 to C5: two jumpers. Jumper the positive lead of bridge BR2 to the positive lead of C5. Repeat for the negative leads also.
BR1: ONE jumper. Jumper the AC lead of BR1 (just below the positive lead) to connector J101 pin 7.
C6/C7: jumper the two positive leads of capacitors C6 and C7 together (this also jumpers also helps BR1).
BR3: three jumpers. Jumper the lower AC lead of BR3 (just below the positive lead) to connector J104 pin 1. Jumper the other upper AC lead (to the left of the positive lead) to connector J104 pin 2. Jumper the positive lead of BR3 to the large solenoid fuse trace about 2" below the bridge (see picture below).
BR4: three jumpers: Jumper the negative lead of BR4 to the negative lead of C11. Jumper the AC lead of BR4 (just above the negative lead) to connector J102 pin 1. Jumper the other lower AC lead of BR4 (just below the positive lead) to connector J104 pin 4.
BR5 to C30: two jumpers: Jumper the positive lead of BR5 to the positive lead of C30. Repeat for the negative leads also.
My write-up can be found here... http://home.comcast.net/~mtpacifico/_pinballs/twilightzone/twilightzone.htm
- Mike
Quoted from markmon:With the specific problem you are having (game is fine once warmed up), I would consider replacing the thermistor in the power box. It's only a few cents and a good place to start before hacking the boards. I would definitely not start by reflowing parts of your 20 year old board lol.
You can jumper the thermistor if that is suspect to test it / take it out of circuit.
Bridges are really inexpensive to replace and simple ( if you have the correct tools and skills ).
If you are heavy handed you can do trace damage or worse.
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Louisville
Burlington, WI