I'm sure you know all of this but I'll say it in case.............

I would remove the coil wire from the connector on the driver board for further testing (or disconnect the coil in some way).

There is only one way the coil can activate. One side of it is always at supply potential (50~80V) and the other side is wired back to the driver board and taken to ground when the coil is to fire.

I would then turn on the machine and start taking measurements back through the circuit until I located where the signal ISN'T activating the driver circuitry (all the bits you replaced).

I would also look closely around J113 etc (whichever applies to your problem area) for shorts or perhaps a ribbon cable incorrectly seated or off by one pin?

This is a lot easier than just replacing parts and crossing fingers. A meter and taking voltage measurements is essential in this case.

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