(Topic ID: 195698)

WPC General Illumination Circuit Board Repairs

By tiesmasc

6 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by sscnz
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

Thank you experts for your help in advance!!!

I'm about to embark on replacing the header pins and molex connectors for GI on my Shadow (WPC-S) as they are burned and I have no GI anywhere in the game. (Image at bottom).

I'm looking for more detail /guidance related to removing the header pins considering that the connector is actually burnt onto the header.* [And really wish there were a "Guide to PCB Header Pin and Connector Replacement" that detailed the steps]

I'm hesitant to attempt removal of the connector from the header pins as it seems like that would stress the circuit board significantly. If those concerns aren't valid please advise and provide suggested method.

My current plan:
1. Use a desoldering iron (cheap kind with the red suction bulb) to remove solder from all through-holes associated with J120 and J121
2. Hope I can easily then pull out the headers (with molex attached). If this doesn't work... suggestions for how to remove more solder (assuming I can't push individual pins through board since molex is melted to header)
3. Clean/Inspect
What specifically should I look for?
4. Solder in new headers and check cross board connectivity (where applicable)... and if lost... fix (how? detailed instructions for exposing trace, type of wire to use as jumper, and where to connect (trace to trace or trace to header pin solder pad or ???)
5. Replace connector with molex using trifurcon pins
6. Replace associated fuse
7. Plug in and test...
8. Replace #44 bulbs with #47 (to reduce power draw)
9. Do same for #555 (with #447 or #159)

* Note:
I've searched through and read a ton of posts here and found great guidance but nothing all in one place.
I've read through the pinwiki guidance at http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems (which is AWESOME!).
I've watched some videos I found on you tube
None of the above addressed doing this when the molex is melted to the header...

010-Board-WPC Power Driver-J120,J121-BrownedMolex (resized).jpg010-Board-WPC Power Driver-J120,J121-BrownedMolex (resized).jpg

#2 6 years ago

Don't over think it. Your on the right track.
Snip the burnt wires just enough so you can still the wire colors in the burnt connector. Remove the board and desolder the male headers from the rear. The red bulb tool is probably 40 watts so skip around a little when desoldering the male pins, that keeps the heat down.
If you still have pins stuck you can cut the connector in pieces and remove the pins like you do a Williams 40 pin connector. You don't NEED to but personally I replace every single IDC connector on a machine I get. I hate those things.

1 week later
#3 6 years ago

So I have the same problem and I bought new headers/connectors etc. Proper molex connectors. But, after I remove the board I could see there's quite a bit damage on both back/front of the board. I de-soldered and removed the old header but the um, little metal pieces sticking to the board around the pins was literally destroyed both back and front on J115. How would you recommend I would repair that damage? Sand of the coating, put a wire between the pin and the fuse etc.
Thanks! =) /Stefan

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#4 6 years ago

And here's the front of the board. Not pretty!

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#5 6 years ago

Find there those contacts are connected to and run a thick wire to the new header pin from there.

#6 6 years ago

sscnz - Fingers crossed my board looks better than that when I removed the headers. Sorry for your pain. Please post pics of your fix when resolved for others to learn (even me if I'm also unlucky).

#7 6 years ago

You really shouldn't

Quoted from tiesmasc:

Use a desoldering iron (cheap kind with the red suction bulb)

They get incredibly hot and will probably damage the board or lift a trace in the process.
If you want to attempt repairs on (expensive) circuit boards you should get a temperature (not wattage) controlled soldering iron and use it with a solder sucker. Better yet, get a desoldering iron. But they cost a bit more.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

please advise and provide suggested method.

Bring it in Scott. I'll swap in a new one for you. Or look over your shoulder while you do it and learn you.

LTG : )

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

sscnz - Fingers crossed my board looks better than that when I removed the headers. Sorry for your pain. Please post pics of your fix when resolved for others to learn (even me if I'm also unlucky).

I thought I had made a successful repair, for the first time, all my GIs lit up and everything was perfect.. but 4th time I started the machine, fuse F110 keeps blowing every time I start the game and about half the GIs are now dead again. doh. I have now removed the board to check soldering, paths etc. I will probably post some additional questions on how to troubleshoot later.

Also, as a backup solution I have ordered a new Rottendog board to be delivered when I'm in the US in a few weeks. =)

/Stefan

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Bring it in Scott. I'll swap in a new one for you. Or look over your shoulder while you do it and learn you.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd!!! I'll take you up on this (the training bit) but don't know when (too many other projects including ones my wife give's higher priority

#11 6 years ago

Quick question, I'm trying to troubleshoot why the F110 fuse keeps dying. So I have re-made J115, J120 and J121 to new molex connectors, crimps etc. I had to solder some wires on the back to count the broken traces. But I have gone through and checked the connections as per http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC-95_CPU_2 under GI problems. All good.

But, I also did a quick continuity test on J120 as the main issue now is really just the playfield GI and the fuse blowing out. So on J120 I have continuity between Pin 1 (brown) and Pin 7 (White brown) as well as between pin 3 (yellow) and pin 9 (white yellow). But I don't have continuity between pin 2 (orange) and pin 8 (white orange). Just checking, what am I supposed to see here?! =)

Thanks!

/Stefan

#12 6 years ago

I'm leaning more and more towards a short somewhere in the GI playfield circuits... if I don't connect J120 to the power board, fuse 110 is OK. Don't think I should have a short as my previous post?!

I'll open a new topic to cover some of my troubleshooting questions. =)

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