(Topic ID: 162603)

WPC Dr. Dude startup issues

By BenTheCartoon

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

So, when I try to start up my Dr. Dude, it automatically starts scrolling through the test report menu, without me touching it. It won't respond to any of the button presses, even though the continuity test shows that they are working fine. It will eventually land on one of the menu items, and just hang there. It also says that there are pinballs missing, when they are all present.

Previously, there was an issue where it would randomly reset mid-game, and we found out that one of the wires in the backbox had a bad connection, so we replaced that wire. That seemed to fix it, everything was playable, so I went about replacing some of the dead bulbs. Those also worked fine afterward. I then turned it off, and adjusted the switch under the Gift of Gab, and replaced the drop target springs. When I turned it on again, this happened. I don't know what might have caused this, and am frankly at a loss for what to do.

Here's a video. I can provide pictures of the backbox and playfield wiring if needed. This is also one of the few WPC Dr. Dudes, rather than the standard System 11.

Any ideas?

#2 7 years ago

Any battery corrosion?

#3 7 years ago

No. The batteries were fine, although I did replace them anyway just to see. I also reseated the connectors in the CPU.
Here's a pic of the CPU I took as well.

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#4 7 years ago

Are you able to go in to the test menu? Does it start up correctly with the coin door unplugged?

#5 7 years ago

I can't operate the menu. It acts the same way with the door unplugged.
The 3 LEDs on the left side of the CPU, the top one is off, the middle is blinking very fast and constant, and the bottom is on.

#6 7 years ago

Unplug your coin door interface board. Or, unplug the direct switches (orange, but I dont even see them in your picture) and cabinet switches (J205) and see if it still occurs.

The fact that you're missing your orange switch plug is a suspect there. I don't don't think 205 is correct.

Edit: Yeah, J205 on CPU is incorrect..! J205 is for direct switches (Coin 1-4, Test, Service.) You have a matrix wire going into one on those pins, so that everytime the column is strobed, the CPU is thinking that the Test switch is being pressed.

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

The 3 LEDs on the left side of the CPU, the top one is off, the middle is blinking very fast and constant, and the bottom is on.

That should be correct for a fully booted WPC89 MPU.

Something is not happy in the switch matrix.

You said that you adjusted the gift of gab switch. Did it ever work correctly after that?

When you replaced the drop target springs did you disconnect the opto board? If so, did you get the connectors back on correctly?

#8 7 years ago

It was last working just before I adjusted the gab switch and changed the springs out. Since then it's been doing that.

I did disconnect and reconnect the opto board, but I don't think it was put back on wrong. I'll double check tomorrow.

If it's truly just to do with either of those things, I'll be simultaneously relieved and pissed at myself.

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Edit: Yeah, J205 on CPU is incorrect..! J205 is for direct switches (Coin 1-4, Test, Service.) You have a matrix wire going into one on those pins, so that everytime the column is strobed, the CPU is thinking that the Test switch is being pressed.

J205 has been unchanged since I bought it a year ago, and it's been functioning until recently. I'll show this post to my friend who's been helping me out with this, but neither of us have touched that wire. If there's no orange, there never was one there. How should it be wired?

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

It was last working just before I adjusted the gab switch and changed the springs out. Since then it's been doing that.

When something goes wrong after changes are made the best place to look is where things were changed. Look to make sure that you do not have a short in one of the switches that you adjusted and make sure he opto board is connected correctly.

#11 7 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

J205 has been unchanged since I bought it a year ago, and it's been functioning until recently. I'll show this post to my friend who's been helping me out with this, but neither of us have touched that wire. If there's no orange, there never was one there. How should it be wired?

Disconnect J205. The problem will stop. I'm even willing to put money down.

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Disconnect J205. The problem will stop. I'm even willing to put money down.

Actually tried that earlier, didn't change anything. I'm going to check on the gab switch and opto boards in the morning and see if it's coming from there. Will try unplugging 205 again for good measure though.

#13 7 years ago

Okay. It may be an issue on the board then - as the button that puts the game into test mode is wired thru 205.. It should be, at any rate..

#14 7 years ago

already have you my advice on Reddit, but check the switches in the trough... It's telling you there's a ball missing.

#15 7 years ago

If it's a board issue, what do I do with it?
If the trough switches are shorted, what do I do with those?

#16 7 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

If it's a board issue, what do I do with it?
If the trough switches are shorted, what do I do with those?

First find out where the problem is

#17 7 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

If the trough switches are shorted, what do I do with those?

You unshort them. Actually, my guess is that one of them is NOT closing. Get a few jumpers, and use them to close the connection on those switches. You don't even have to have the balls in the machine.

#18 7 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Actually, my guess is that one of them is NOT closing.

That would account for the ball missing message but would not explain why it goes in to audit/adjustment as soon as the MPU boots.

#19 7 years ago
Quoted from WonkoTSane:

That would account for the ball missing message but would not explain why it goes in to audit/adjustment as soon as the MPU boots.

That's exactly what my Party Animal does when there's a ball missing. That's why I suggested he start there.

#20 7 years ago

If there was a short in the switch matrix, it's possible the chip which operates the switch matrix could have been fried. Usually on this type of CPU the chip is a ULN2803. There is a method for testing the circuit on the pins of the chip by using a DMM and testing the voltage. There are others here who are much more versed on this method than I am. But there is a way to test this.

#21 7 years ago

So, unplugging J205 (and that whole bottom row) has no effect, nor does unplugging the coin door. I've checked the switches and opto board and ball trough and I can't find any shorts, so it may be the CPU. What I really need is a pinball tech or very knowledgable hobbyist to come take a look at it because I'm beyond my comfort level tinkering with it. Can anyone point me to someone in the Binghamton, NY area?

#22 7 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

I've checked the switches and opto board and ball trough and I can't find any shorts, so it may be the CPU.

Did you check them with a DMM? By jumpering the switches closed? Or visual inspection?

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Did you check them with a DMM? By jumpering the switches closed? Or visual inspection?

I used a DMM, and tested the switches while opening and closing them manually. They seemed to be operating correctly.

#24 7 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

So, unplugging J205 (and that whole bottom row) has no effect, nor does unplugging the coin door. I've checked the switches and opto board and ball trough and I can't find any shorts, so it may be the CPU. What I really need is a pinball tech or very knowledgable hobbyist to come take a look at it because I'm beyond my comfort level tinkering with it. Can anyone point me to someone in the Binghamton, NY area?

Then yeah, the issue is in your CPU board - no need to check the rest of anything. (You didn't do any soldering to the switches with the game on, did you?)

#25 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Then yeah, the issue is in your CPU board - no need to check the rest of anything. (You didn't do any soldering to the switches with the game on, did you?)

No way, it's always off when I work on it.
What's my next step then?

#26 7 years ago

Start studying schematics!

Seriously, will likely need to find someone to work on the board...

#27 7 years ago

Buy a WPC Cpu board and then get the other repaired.

#28 7 years ago

I am not attempting to do anything further on my own. I am requesting information on where to go/who to talk to in order to get it repaired. Preferably someone nearby to Binghamton, NY.

#29 7 years ago

You should get NVRAM installed at the same time to eliminate batteries.

4 weeks later
#30 7 years ago

Reviving this thread, as I sent the CPU and power driver board out for repair. Just got them back today, and installed them. (The battery holders did in fact have acid damage, among other issues, including a dead 12v capacitor on the power driver board, so he did attach a separate battery holder to use instead.) The machine started right up, with no more of that menu scrolling. Great!
It still has the "Waiting for pinballs" message, even when they were all present, so I navigated to the switch test (now that I actually can), and none of the ball trough/plunger switches responded. I pressed the left and right outlanes for good measure and they popped right up onscreen.

So according to the switch matrix, the Green-Red wire is the one connecting those ball trough switches as well as the left ramp switches. I haven't tested the ramp switches yet because it's starting to thunderstorm and I have unplugged it until it subsides. What should my next move be once I check those ramp switches?

#31 7 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

What should my next move be once I check those ramp switches?

That would depend on whether or not those ramp switches work or not. Check continuity on the wire-- I was having absolute fits with the popup targets on my Party Animal, and ended up tracing it to a broken wire that was missing a couple inches of insulation-- in the middle of a bundle. I can't figure out for the life of me how that happened unless it was that way from the factory and no one noticed (or cared).

#32 7 years ago

The ramp switches (and heart target) do not register on the Switch Edges test either, but there is continuity the whole way through the wire to the CPU.

#33 7 years ago

Hmmm... do you have a single switch test in your diagnostics?

Sounds like your board may not have had all of its issues correctly worked out.

#34 7 years ago

I have Switch Levels and Switch Edges, and the entire Green-Red column is unresponsive on both, but again, with a DMM it shows continuity throughout.

#35 7 years ago

I looked at the manual on IPDB. Check for power at "J8-2" (does that mean J208? not sure what J8 is).

#36 7 years ago

Remove the row and column connectors and jumper from that column to any row. If you don't get a switch closure then the problem is on the board, which it sounds like at this point.

#37 7 years ago

Sorry for the newbie question, but can I get a how-to on jumpering?

#38 7 years ago

Talked to the guy who fixed the boards for me, and he walked me through jumping the pins. I moved the green and white connectors from J207 and J209 to J206 and J208 and we are back in business!

Thanks to Eugene Marsh for all his help!

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