(Topic ID: 234435)

WPC DMD Driver Board not working?

By Genjuro

5 years ago


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  • 45 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by MG7322
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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    #7 5 years ago
    Quoted from Genjuro:

    Wow super helpful information the both of you. Once i get settled i will perform and post back. Thank you!

    It appears you're unfamiliar with using a meter. Please be careful as the voltages produced foe the DMD are not trivial... over 100 volts DC. Also be very precise with your meter lead olacement. If you still have IDC connectors (the kind where the wire is pushed in from the top) then keep the connector on and test by pushing your meter lead into the top...you should be able to touch the wire blades that make contact with the wires. Much easier and much safer than trying to put your lead on a header pin. One slip and you bridge two pins with your lead and cause more damage than you already have.

    #10 5 years ago
    Quoted from Genjuro:

    Okay, i have basically zero reading on the three high voltage leads. These are DC right? The meter shows some millivolts... but that is it. I have 12.33v on gray/yellow and 4.9v on gray.

    Yes, DC....Time to check your AC incoming and your fuses.

    https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Manual.pdf

    Goto page 3-20 (PDF page 122). Check all those voltages. Check fuses F601 and F602 on DMD Controller.

    Note: For AC, put your Red and Black leads across both that say 80V and then 100V. Do not keep your black lead on ground.

    #18 5 years ago
    Quoted from Genjuro:

    Would the voltages i just read be zero if it was? The led on the board is still lit.. not sure where that power comes from though

    No, the plug is for the AC voltage from the transformer. If you're reading AC then that's ok.

    Did you check the two fuses? These feed the Bridge Rectifiers on the board to convert the AC to DC through BR1 and BR2.

    If the fuses are OK, set you meter to DC, and check across the capacitors C4 and C7, then R12 and R13.

    Note: I'm going by a WPC Schematic for BSD (I have a printed set) which should be similar, but if you note any inconsistencies in the device numbers, let me know.

    #20 5 years ago
    Quoted from castlesteve:

    I see all kinds of cracked solder joints on those transistors. You'll need to clean and use flux for them to accept solder. Many times, that's it. Also, looks like your're missing a chip there . For the money, just throw in a new DMD controller.... this one is a little crispy

    Could be a possibility too, but that boards nowhere near crispy....every HV section on a WPC looks like that And no, no chip missing....U12 isn't used.

    #23 5 years ago
    Quoted from Genjuro:

    Fuse 601 was blown, so that indicates something behind it is over drawing current right?
    Going to follow the traces and see what is next line.

    Br1 and c4 are next in line. Either can short...if the caps look original id replace them. The BRs are the IC style and rarely go. You can rebuild the HV section for about $30 in parts if you're handy with a solder iron. I just did one last week.

    #25 5 years ago

    Desolder 1 leg and test with a meter. If you don't have a meter that can measure capacitance you're only going to be able to test if it's not all bad

    https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Troubleshhoting_logic_board_components

    Scroll down to testing

    #27 5 years ago

    No problem....if you decide to rebuild the HV section, here's the parts list. Ed at GPE doesn't assemble the kits anymore, but you can order all the components separately from his site.

    https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC-HVP-KIT

    Be sure to get the optional filter caps C4 and C7.

    #31 5 years ago
    Quoted from NPO:

    Not to overcomplicate things, just a polite piece of advice. If this comes down to desoldering and soldering new pieces in, a desoldering gun should be used to minimize board damage (lifting traces).
    Best to either work on a spare board and ensure you know how to properly use a desokder gun, or send it to a professional like Rob (above) or Chris Hibler who both are well qualified to do the job right.
    Again, not trying to discourage DIY work, more like issuing friendly advice and make sure you r skill sets are ready to do this.
    Another option is to buy the Rottendog board as Phat_Jay suggested earlier and sell your old board off for rebuild and keep it alive in the community.

    Good Advice....I've been soldering for 20+ years, and I just recently bought a nice desoldering station. Makes life SOOOOOO much easier. Right tool for the job. I used to use the plunger suckers or solder tape, and can't tell you how many times I had to fix my own repairs. Now, I'm pretty confident in tackling any job.

    Rob,

    Somehow need to get your site into google searches. I literally started a thread a few weeks ago about who sold the kits anymore, since I knew Ed stopped. Crickets, and not once did your site come up under my google searches. Would have considered buying the kit from you had I known!

    #35 5 years ago
    Quoted from G-P-E:

    Actually - I didn't stop selling these kits but don't get much time to make more kits. I did list 100 of them when I reopened on January 7th. 100th kit was sold on the 21st. When will I be able to make more? No idea...
    Ed

    Wow....100 kits in 14 days. Apologies Ed...from your post a few weeks ago about your other job keeping you long hours that you don't have time to make kits anymore and you thought about removing the links, I incorrectly assumed that was a permanent decision.

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