Does anyone have a spare DMD control board?
Mine went in my Twilight zone and I'm looking for another, New or used,
Have a GPE rebuild kit waiting to go in too sitting on the shelf, but this board is toast
Does anyone have a spare DMD control board?
Mine went in my Twilight zone and I'm looking for another, New or used,
Have a GPE rebuild kit waiting to go in too sitting on the shelf, but this board is toast
They are almost always toasty.
Sometimes traces have to be jumpered, but I've never had one that I couldn't make work.
Shoot a pic of the toast.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
htp://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from johnwartjr:I agree with Chris. Some look better than others once repaired, but I've yet to find one that wasn't salvageable.
Just rebuilt this... and while it's probably a 'B' cosmetically, works greatdmd_cont.jpg 50 KB
That thing works?
Quoted from johnwartjr:I agree with Chris. Some look better than others once repaired, but I've yet to find one that wasn't salvageable. Just rebuilt this... and while it's probably a 'B' cosmetically, works great
dmd_cont.jpg 50 KB
I just bought a rebuilt board from John and while it looks better than this board, it also works perfectly. Don't forget John gives a warranty as well.
Hey Guys,
John, Chris,
This ones burnt the traces and anything that holds the components to the board,
I'm sure jumper wires could be used instead of traces but there are no points to solder to,
So yeah if anyone has a spare please let me know,
I'll be home late tonight but I may have a repaired board I keep as a spare. Send me a PM if you don't get something by this evening.
IMO the Rottendog replacement is a good solution if you don't want to fix a crispy board or want all new components. I have a few and they are $85 shipped to you (48 state shipping). I use them when repairing other people games.
Parker
Go with Parker's offer. I couldn't sell you one for less than that.
--
Chris Hbler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.chrter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
htp://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go forPinball Repair Info
Thanks Chris,
I am working on a possible trade in on my toasty board for a used one with a board member,
If that doesn't work out $85 for a new one isn't bad at all
I checked, I don't have anything ready right now. I try to keep 1 at all times, but nothing right now!
The piggyback board: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2828&mobile=0
I use a similar piggy back board for testing 'untested' display driver boards. Nice to determine whether a board has a HV problem or 'more'. HV problem = easy fix. More = more in depth fix. Lots of repairable boards floating around.
That DMD driver looks pretty good, compared to many others!
John in your experience is it "really" worth using the GPE rebuild kit on a fully working board?
I'm contemplating that old line, If it ain't broke, Don't fix it
Got ya,
Dave was kind enough to sell me the board he posted above for a good price so I was wondering if it was worth getting another GPE kit for it or just leave it alone if its working fine
The toasty marks on the boards behind the capacitors are just from the heat they generate right? Doesn't mean they are failing?
Correct Jamie. Almost every game's DMD boards I've seen or had/have displays those burns but I'm certain there's plenty out there that don't.
Quoted from johnwartjr:I use a similar piggy back board for testing 'untested' display driver boards. Nice to determine whether a board has a HV problem or 'more'. HV problem = easy fix. More = more in depth fix. Lots of repairable boards floating around.
That DMD driver looks pretty good, compared to many others!
Thanks John. Good to know the piggy back boards work for HV dmd section bypass.
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