Wondering if somebody could confirm what is the lead spacing for:
C11, C5-6-7 and C30? these are all the same caps and I am trying to order from Digikey and these come in different shapes and sizes so want to order the right one:
Thanks
C5 is the only cap that ever needs replacement, unless C11 was damaged by connecting things wrong.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:C5 is the only cap that ever needs replacement, unless C11 was damaged by connecting things wrong.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
don't these have a shelf life? if so, is it not better to replace them all considering these are 30 years old? I thought they had a shelf life/lifespan of 3.000 thousand hours.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:don't these have a shelf life? if so, is it not better to replace them all considering these are 30 years old? I thought they had a shelf life/lifespan of 3.000 thousand hours.
Yep. People talk about that often.
Without doubt, these caps have a shelf life.
However, when past that shelf life, do they impact the function of the PCB? Nope. Not at all.
Consider C6 and C7 on the WPC Power/Driver board. Those two 15,000uf caps serve the same function as the gigantic 30,000uf cap in old WMS System 3-7 games. Almost no one ever changes that cap and the game's lamp matrix continues to operate just fine.
I recommend against wholesale cap change for two reasons...
...as stated above, C5 is the only big cap that can make a difference. I do recommend changing C2 and C4. C2 leaks and kills the 12VR circuit. C4 can cause resets. Both are 100uf caps.
...hobbyists typically don't have the skill or tools to remove the big snapcaps without damaging the through holes, which causes more problems than the hobbyist was trying to fix. To remove these caps, both leads need to be heated at the same time after adding extra solder. The sometimes prescribed method of heating one leg, rock it to one side, heat the other leg, rock it, etc, won't prevent most people from tearing through holes. Using your favorite solder sucker, will not clean the through hole enough to remove the cap cleanly.
Well there you go. Hope this helps you and others.
Regards.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Yep. People talk about that often.
Without doubt, these caps have a shelf life.
However, when past that shelf life, do they impact the function of the PCB? Nope. Not at all.
Consider C6 and C7 on the WPC Power/Driver board. Those two 15,000uf caps serve the same function as the gigantic 30,000uf cap in old WMS System 3-7 games. Almost no one ever changes that cap and the game's lamp matrix continues to operate just fine.
I recommend against wholesale cap change for two reasons...
...as stated above, C5 is the only big cap that can make a difference. I do recommend changing C2 and C4. C2 leaks and kills the 12VR circuit. C4 can cause resets. Both are 100uf caps.
...hobbyists typically don't have the skill or tools to remove the big snapcaps without damaging the through holes, which causes more problems than the hobbyist was trying to fix. To remove these caps, both leads need to be heated at the same time after adding extra solder. The sometimes prescribed method of heating one leg, rock it to one side, heat the other leg, rock it, etc, won't prevent most people from tearing through holes. Using your favorite solder sucker, will not clean the through hole enough to remove the cap cleanly.
Well there you go. Hope this helps you and others.
Regards.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
I am pretty good with this stuff, is does not scare me at all, I have also done stitching before fixing somebody else's mistakes and in the absolute worst case scenario, I guess I can do that, of course, I do not want to do it.
I have a hakko sucker that makes things a breeze too, but I have not done one of these caps yet... regardless, I will get the other caps you suggested and replace them, but I tempted to do them all.
It seems like you might be able to do the job.
Since you have an iron and a desoldering iron,
...Clip the leads of the existing snapcap close to the PCB but don't scratch the trace
...make a mound of fresh solder on the solder pad for both cap leads
...heat one lead with your iron, heat the other leg with your desoldering iron (don't worry about sucking the solder out yet)
...grab the cap from the other side. You'll be able to feel it loosen up.
...when the solder on both leads has melted and you can feel the cap loosen up, gently rock it out of the holes.
If you were successful, the through holes will be intact and there will be no "brown donut" around either the the snapcap leads.
Here is a video I made showing the process...
Good luck!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
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