Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992I think the regulated 12VDC comes from the 18V circuit, and I don't seem to have any 18VDC at TP8. Also, the 18V test LED is not lit.
I have checked F114, and it is indeed good. I went ahead and reflowed F114 fuse holder while I was troubleshooting. Still no 18VDC.
I checked the normal culprit "BR1", and it is definitely not shorted out. Could it maybe have an "open" internally? What other components contribute to the 18VDC circuit could be causing this issue?
Thanks
Check the link Lloyd posted above, lots of good info. 
Also, bridges can test good and be faulty under load. I had the missing unregulated 12v issue just last week with my WCS … threw up the same F114/F115 issue.
Everything tested fine - but I threw in a new BR anyway, and she fired up and hasn’t missed a beat since.
(Usually the F114/115 issue is switch matrix … first time I’ve had the missing 12v)
rd
Yeah I went through the Pinwiki in detail. But it did not help with because again, this was a weird one. Of course I determined that it was self-induced. I will explain.
On J101 you have the solid blue wires with the white stripes. I found that the original wires here at some point in the past started to meltdown likely due to a short. I cut that damaged wire out and replaced it with similar size blue wire I had on hand, but the strands in this wire were very fine. When I pressed this new wire into the IDC connector, the conductor in the wire did not engage the conductor in the connect...hence an open and no power. All is now fixed.
Does anyone have any of this OEM blue wire with white strip? I will also post a new thread asking for it.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Does anyone have any of this OEM blue wire with white strip? I will also post a new thread asking for it.
How far back did you cut it? Pretty close to the connector?
If so - Should be a heap of it in the harness (as it heads all the way down into the cabinet)
Should be able to free up the harness and pull some more through.
rd
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:I had to cut about 10" of it off. I will check for extra down in the cabinet.
Ooooooh 10” is quite a lot.
Pull on the cable while watching the end of it and see how much you can scrounge.
Might just have to bite the bullet and solder/heat shrink some same gauge wire on the end. Unless
You can find a matching piece. Not the end of the world if it doesn’t match … I have rolls of different gauge wire on hand for just such an occasion.
rd
If its available, I would like to have as close to the original wire as possible. My client wants this thing completely original, except for the addition of the LEDs. Looking at the blue wire I am using now. The insulation was so thick on it that the IDC connector could not pierce through it, and that was the source of the original problem.
Working on fixing an F114 pin, and having trouble with the large left ramp area with the (2) diverter coils installed.
The rear coil it appears had locked on, burning it up. After replacing the coils and reinstalled the section, the coil immediately locks on upon power up.
Looking below, there seems to be a relay missing tons of parts. Does anyone have an suggestion for replacing the assembly and when do there diverters decide to change the ball direction during gameplay? I haven't played a fully operational machine to understand how / when they work.
Thanks so much.
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Richmond, KY
Auckland, NZ