Hello,

I am putting a MB back together and have run into some strangeness. There are a variety of issues, but I suspect that they are related. Note that the game in question is a re-import. I converted it back to 120v according to the information in this post: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/power-conversion-220v-to-110v-europe-to-north-america

I've got the major assemblies back in the game, and this is what I am noticing:

1) Neither motor associated with the Frankenstein table/up down target runs. I've tested for continuity along all wires back to the P/D board and also found 12v at the power pin on both EMI motor control boards. The motors never run, even when the game boots. The Dracula motor, other solenoids, and flash lamps all run fine.
2) At boot I get "check switch" errors on both sets of switches associated with the above motors (#81, #82, #83, and #84). All of these test fine in the switch tests. Switches #85 and #86 work fine, so it does not seem the whole row is affected.
3) When I got the game, someone had cut the wires on the flipper IDC connectors and wired them to leaf switches. I replaced these with the correct opto flipper switches and returned the wires to the IDC connectors. However neither flipper switch registers in the switch tests. I can see that the emitter is shining light when viewing through a digital camera. I have tested the wires for continuity back to the appropriate pins on the CPU board and P/D board. Needless to say, the flippers never fire. Except for...
4) When I close the coin door (or more accurately the top interlock switch) the left flipper fires and holds (more slowly than normal) and then after the left one is held in the upper position the right flipper slowly raises (slower than the left one) and holds too. This happens only when the top interlock switch is closed, and is independent of all other switch activity.

As mentioned, I've checked the continuity on all the wires, verified the wiring of the interlock switches against other WPC-95 games, run through the standard switch matrix tests with a test lead, and probably a few other things I'm forgetting. Would love to hear any thoughts or suggestions from others about what might be going on. Thanks,

Kyle

I wound up forcing assemblies powered by the motors through a full cycle by running leads from the 12v and ground directly to them. Once I did that, the motors and switches started working as expected. Will need to look at the flippers and flipper optos next.

Kyle

I was looking through my old posts and finally noticed your response to this. It turned out to be much simpler. Figured I would post the solution in case anyone else was following this:

On the game I have, someone had hacked it to use leaf switches for the flippers rather than the proper opto boards. I had bought replacement board/spring/interrupters from PPS and installed them. After several hours of messing around checking wiring, swapping parts between games, etc. I finally convinced myself the boards had to be bad. I contacted PPS and they suggested trying to color the white interrupter blades with a black Sharpie. Seemed kind of crazy, but by that point I was just ready for a solution. Viola' - it was fixed. Still not completely sure I understand that - maybe the white color was reflecting the opto beam? Anyway, that did the trick.

Now I just need to figure out how the Frank hit switch needs to be adjusted and I'll have a perfectly working game.