(Topic ID: 256476)

WPC-95 no boot good power and address data lines

By Hawk007

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 45 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Hawk007
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Hey everyone. just seeing if anyone else has had this before .

WPC-95, no boot,201 led locked on , 202 out, 203 on, no acid damage, good cpu, nvram, rom verified, address and data lines good across the 3 ,good clock signals, good power supply. [its on the bench] clock signals good, asic socket good.

The cpu pin3 irq is low pulsing not high like it should be, with 201 blanking led on steady ,the U21 pin 3 is low so blanking circuit is fine
The reset signal should be 5v /steady high with the logic probe but it sounds like its pulsing super fast many times a second. Almost sounds fine its pulsing so fast. But when compared to a proper signal from working board the difference is clear.

Game all of a sudden would not boot up and this is what was found. Thoughts? This could be a spanker with no scope and a couple other special tools.

#2 4 years ago

You mentioned everything except “good asic”. That all I can add.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#3 4 years ago

Thanks Chris.
I do not have a spare asic or I would have swapped it out. I reseated it to no avail. Time to find an extra I think.

#4 4 years ago

any other ideas? Looking for spare asic. Seems these rarely fail. Thoughts?

#5 4 years ago

Swap it with one out of your other WPC/95 games to verify.

#6 4 years ago

i'd like to but I hate doing that. Much rather find a spare board to rob parts from or have extra ic's around. I would hate myself if a socket gave out or a leg broke just cause I was testing another game.
Reg socket fine no sweat but these asic sockets are something else.
Anyone have a spare ASIC or an entire wpc 95 cpu board around?
Be so nice to have a working spare .

#8 4 years ago

Thanks Ed. Great idea! Pulled asic and checked legs. All look nice and same bow on all sides. Clicked in nicely but no worky. Sigh.
Any other ideas? Thanks for your input everyone. Here is hoping its something stupid. And not the asic. lol

#9 4 years ago

How a picture of the MPU Board

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

Game all of a sudden would not turn boot up

For the heck of it what game are we talking about?

#11 4 years ago

Its a MM and the board looks perfect. Just like new. No acid damage or anything. Battery box is cut off and nvram installed. Worked great and then went to turn it on and nothing. Just GI.

What other than the asic could cause this? Considering everyhting I posted so far?

#12 4 years ago

Did you check the main fuse in the cabinet?
Other thing to do would be to reseat all the ribbon cables in the backbox.Do this slowly and very gently so you don’t bend or miss any row of pins

#13 4 years ago

Board is on the bench. Eliminating anything on the game at fault. Game was/is otherwise perfect. Just stopped booting

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

Board is on the bench. Eliminating anything on the game at fault. Game was/is otherwise perfect. Just stopped booting

I added more info in previous post

#15 4 years ago

Thanks for the posts!Appreciate any input. Again board is on the bench.Not in the game . No ribbon cables attached. Nothing attached but ground,5 and 12 volts and a logic probe. lol
Nothing to pull this down other than components on the board itself.

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

Thanks for the posts!Appreciate any input. Again board is on the bench.Not in the game . No ribbon cables attached. Nothing attached but ground,5 and 12 volts and a logic probe. lol
Nothing to pull this down other than components on the board itself.

Ok I’m bit lost here,You power on the game but you don’t have the board in the game?I read in your previous posts that you power on the game but only the GI lamps are working.I was assuming the boards were in the game

#17 4 years ago

I will throw my two cents in as I had a very similar problem happen on my AFM. Unfortunately I do not play my machines very often and at times they sit for several months without being turned on. A few months ago I fired up my AFM and waited and waited and waited, nothing. I turned it off, opened up the backbox, reseated all the ribbon cables, got out the multimeter and logic probe and got ready to boogie. When I turned it on again I got some signs of life, display showed garbage, had some sound, GI but that was it. I though maybe dried out caps. I turned it off and on several times with different effects each time. My AFM is low mileage and boards are virgin and clean, only thing I have done is add an NVRAM. I had all I needed power wise to the CPU so I pulled it and put it on the bench. Schematic out I figured it was something with the ASIC, sure enough I had one trace from the ASIC to the socket that housed the NVRAM that was open. It looked perfect under the magnifying glass, I reflowed both ends after scrapping down to expose the trace line a little. Bong she booted right up. So long story short, I would ohm out the lines leading to the ASIC from the NVRAM.

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Ok I’m bit lost here,You power on the game but you don’t have the board in the game?I read in your previous posts that you power on the game but only the GI lamps are working.I was assuming the boards were in the game

No sweat. I was just saying what happens when the game is powered on with the board installed in the game itself.

And that now its on the bench to omit anything with the game being at fault for stopping the board from booting No problem. Appreciate the posts either way. Cheers!

And thanks pinballemporium I did check the nvram traces first thing I did and all data and address lines are good. But will check again to make sure. Maybe I missed one the first check.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

No sweat. I was just saying what happens when the game is powered on with the board installed in the game itself.
And that now its on the bench to omit anything with the game being at fault for stopping the board from booting No problem. Appreciate the posts either way. Cheers!
And thanks pinballemporium I did check the nvram traces first thing I did and all data and address lines are good. But will check again to make sure. Maybe I missed one the first check.

Oh now I see what your saying haha sorry about the confusion.

#20 4 years ago

double checked the traces from nvram to all devices, rom, cpu and asic chips all legs buzz where they should.

going to double check and meter out the factory rom socket and the cpu socket as well.

#21 4 years ago

double checked..still no goodness. sigh.

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

double checked..still no goodness. sigh.

Still not working??

#23 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

How a picture of the MPU Board

There is much more to look over than just battery damage.

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

going to double check and meter out the factory ram socket

Actually, RAM was installed directly in the board from the factory, not an IC socket so it had to been added at a later time.

So far, I don't see anything you actually reported replacing. Is that correct?

#25 4 years ago

Yup still not working. Been trying to get a good picture but my camera sucks so bad.

Whoops I meant to say rom not ram,edited above. Already put nvram in the factory ram spot with machine pin socket strips.Triple checked for continuity.

So far I have tried new known good cpu chip and regular ram, verified the eprom and its good and re-seated the asic. Hmm what else..pin checked the 4 main chips to one another. [rom ram cpu asic]
Good power, clock signals and reset signal starts low and goes high as it should but blanking lamp is lit and u21 pin 3 is low .

pins on the asic look very nice and shiny silver and clean with the same uniform 'bow' all around the chip. Asic socket is nice also. Looks new, no cracks or breaks. Gone over the board with glasses and magnifying glass to look for bad solders etc.

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

Whoops I meant to say rom not ram,edited above. Already put nvram in the factory ram spot with machine pin socket strips.Triple checked for continuity.

Did the problem start before installing NVRAM? Have you tested the RAM IC socket for pin to pin (1 to 2, 2 to 3, etc) short?

Also, what number is on the old RAM chip and what NVRAM did you install?

#27 4 years ago

And yes pinballmaniac you are correct . Have not shotgun replaced anything. Just what I listed above, I do not have a scope so testing this kind of an issue can be tough to impossible. Might be time to seek out a nice fluke and more toys. lol

Or maybe I can see if someone had this particular issue before and what the final resolution was. Or get help from someone with better tools than myself

I did check every pin for shorts on the cpu,rom and ram ic's and continuity to all the asic,cpu,rom and ram. No shorts and all have good connection.
Issue started long after nvram was installed. As in game worked for a long time before the issue cropped up.

#28 4 years ago

by check for shorts I did the ol meter each pin and rake the others to all legs. Rom ram and cpu all got this done.

#29 4 years ago

On occasion, you can use a heat gun and it may start working again for a short time. Other times freeze spray can also restart it briefly. Just depends if the failed part was heat or cold sensitive. If you have either a heat gun/freeze spray, try U5 first.

#30 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

On occasion, you can use a heat gun and it may start working again for a short time. Other times freeze spray can also restart it briefly. Just depends if the failed part was heat or cold sensitive. If you have either a heat gun/freeze spray, try U5 first.

I've seen this first hand (in front of my own eyes) with a WPC-95 AV ASIC. My buddy freezed it and it started to work (then failed again). I'm software by trade so I'm used to having reliable hardware.

#31 4 years ago

I will try it for sure. Tomorrow is another day thanks for the posts guys

#32 4 years ago

well i set the board outside in the -5 weather for a couple hours and tried to fire it and no go. Was hoping being cold would help and I could have tried the freeze spray to isolate the offending part. No luck.

#33 4 years ago

Time to try a heat gun. Just don't stay in one area long as you can cause a false failure by exceeding the temperature range of parts.

#34 4 years ago

Gonna set it by my fireplace and warm it all up and hope we get joy. If it works, after it cools I will grab a heat gun and start searching
After the cold trick I am doubtful though. Prolly a failure of a component I need a scope to verify.Crap.

Seems to be my luck to get board spankers from time to time. lol

Can't ever be the easy stuff . lol Meh makes life interesting I guess.

#35 4 years ago

All night? Seems excessive. Hair Dryer will probably be a bit better than a heat gun.

#36 4 years ago

not all night lol warm it all RIGHT up. Edited above so it reads better. Just placed it there gonna let it get good and warm and should tell the tale. Will not take long.

#37 4 years ago

Ehhhh

#38 4 years ago

no luck yet. Hoping someone will chime in that has had the same problem . Seems to be not that common which is good as there is not a lot out there by way of posts or articles for this particular issue.
Hmm wish I had a scope and other wicked testing tools!

#39 4 years ago

bump for monday crowd. Any more ideas my friends?
Cheers

#40 4 years ago

If you just install the NVRAM then you may need to resistor. See link

https://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

I have needed to do this on WPC-95 mpu.

#41 4 years ago

Thanks man. BUT game ran fine before it quit. Nvram was installed months before game stopped working. Thanks for your idea though! Very much appreciated. Anyone else have a idea for me? Sigh missing my MM
Cheers

#42 4 years ago

any other ideas friends?
Cheers

#43 4 years ago

Other than sending it out to a really great tech?

#44 4 years ago

ha ha. Rather do it myself if at all possible. BUT limited in the tools I have. I need a scope and 6809 pod and more. sigh.
DMM and logic probe only get you so far.

I know a legendary tech but he is super busy and has no time right now.

When I eventually find the reason this will not boot I will post the answer.

1 week later
#45 4 years ago

OK fixed. Found a weak trace at A13 between cpu and asic. Was making a connection but not good enough of one. Trace cracked. Would have been easier to find with a scope.
Noticed slightly weaker signal at cpu then at the asic. Measure resistance and bingo! Ran jumper from through hole to leg of cpu and its perfect now. All solders were and are good,so it for sure is/was a minute cracked trace.
Posting for future help for others.
Cheers!!

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