(Topic ID: 188626)

WPC 89 Catching on Fire

By darkchao

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by stoptap
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

Hi everyone,

I've got a Terminator 2 WPC board that was working fine until I tried to swap it into The Getaway. Upon swapping it, Q52, it's pre-driver, and two of the resistors in that section caught on fire.

I learned that this was due to Q52 controlling the shifter knob in The Getaway. No problem, no more of that - I'll swap it back into T2.

Repaired the solenoid driver area including resistors, but Q52 and the surrounding area still catches on fire when it's back in it's correct machine.

Does anyone know what the culprit on this WPC board could be? Any knowledge is appreciated, thanks!

IMG_6357 (resized).JPGIMG_6357 (resized).JPG

#2 6 years ago

Paging zaza

#3 6 years ago

So....there is a small ground trace on the right leg of the tip102 that sometimes cooks off the board when he tip goes up. Hold the board up to a light and compare it to a couple of the other tip102s in the row.

Looks like pre driver is out too. Check and repl e q51 too

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

So....there is a small ground trace on the right leg of the tip102 that sometimes cooks off the board when he tip goes up. Hold the board up to a light and compare it to a couple of the other tip102s in the row.
Looks like pre driver is out too. Check and repl e q51 too

Correct! The ground trace had cooked off, I put a jumper in its place and installed a new Q51, Q52 and resistors - only to get where I am now.

#5 6 years ago

Pull the components and provide photos of both sides. Any carbon will need to be cleaned off the board (since it's conductive) but I'd like to see what it looks like first.

#6 6 years ago

Sorry, late at the party , great advice is given already.

Measure D21 as well and check for proper contact to center-leg on solder-side. It is the fly-back diode to protect the transistor for voltage spikes.

#7 6 years ago

Beside R89, R86 is heavy burnt too, I think U4 has also a failed output.

Lo-Power-Sol.jpgLo-Power-Sol.jpg

#8 6 years ago

So here's what we're working with -

U4 doesn't look blown, anyone know of a quick and dirty way to test a 74LS374 without hooking up power?

D21 measured fine, if it's a 1N4004 I have some on hand and could swap it out just to be safe.

First picture is of the backside before I removed the components just now. You can see the red insulated wire I stuck in there as a jumper. The original trace burnt away the first time the board caught ablaze.

Second picture is of the backside after parts removal.

Third picture is of the frontside after parts removal. She's so sad

Just to confirm: R89 should be a 1/2 watt resistor, correct? It was the first thing to go as far as my eyes could tell.

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#9 6 years ago
Quoted from darkchao:

U4 doesn't look blown, anyone know of a quick and dirty way to test a 74LS374 without hooking up power?

Without components on output it will give different values than the others but try this:
Multimeter set to 'diode', red lead to a GND on this board, black lead to U4 pin 16, about 600mV ?
Or Compare with U4-15, this is same kind of output but for solenoid #14.

Only with powered machine and logic probe/ scope it will give more reliable information.
This can be done without 20 and 50 V connected.

Quoted from darkchao:

Just to confirm: R89 should be a 1/2 watt resistor, correct?

Yes, correct.

#10 6 years ago

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from darkchao:

Anyone know of a quick and dirty way to test a 74LS374 without hooking up power?

As zaza mentioned most TTL logic has ESD protect diodes from the supply to the pin and pin to ground. This can only be tested when the chip is removed from the circuit. Use your DMM to measure the diode from pin to supply and pin to gnd, approximately 500mV to 700mv. Failures will most like be 0v or no volts. See attached image courtesy of the internet.

cypress-1_esd (resized).JPGcypress-1_esd (resized).JPG

#12 6 years ago

Before you solder anything I would get a fibre pen and some isopropyl alcohol and give the whole area a good clean to remove flux and charring. Then check all the damaged tracks for continuity.

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