Unfortunately, you probably pulled the through holes on those two caps.
Unless you've done it many times, removing those caps is very difficult without damaging the board.

At this point, you should either create a solder stitch to restore front to back continuity, or run jumpers from the bridge to the appropriate cap.

Why did you replace the caps anyway. You can't look at a cap and know that it's worn out.

Good Luck.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Sometimes you can tell by looking at them

photo (13).JPG

I think you did that on purpose, with a lighter.

Smart-Aleck!

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Nope, left flipper on sorcerer.

I've never seen bulging caps on a driver board, but I recently came across a noisy WPC audio board with the two big caps bulging noticeably. I haven't swapped them out yet, but I was surprised to find them. I had to compare it to another board to confirm the bulge. Not seam busting bulge, but it's noticeable. I'll try to get a pic before I replace them (for a friend, not my game). Don't have an ESR meter or I'd test them. I'm hopeful replacing the caps will fix his low crackly noise issue (have to listen closely to hear it).

I've had caps bulge on the power supply board, of my HDTV. I have also had caps on an old computer spill their guts onto the CPU board.

The previous owner of my TZ damaged the plate through holes and/or lifted traces on those caps and bridge rectifiers. I assume it was in effort to resolve resets, however it was not the solution.

I ran jumper wires on the back as Chris suggested. It looks like crap but it works.

I've seen WPC caps bulge, but it's not super common even with the oldest of the WPC boards getting close to 25 years old.

I fix a lot of boards that were damaged by 'good intentions', rather than actual component failure. Resets are rarely bridges and caps. If you follow the systematic approach on Pinwiki to troubleshoot resets, you'll save time and money.

If you don't, you may make the problem worse, and may make it cost more to fix.

I respect that people want to learn how to do it themselves - I screwed up some boards pretty bad 'learning' myself - and I'm glad to help anyone learn - but please, if you're unsure, ask the questions before you plug in the soldering iron.

OK... =sometimes= you can see a bulging cap.
You can also see them when they fracture, puke, or explode.
I should have said, "normally, you can't tell if a cap has failed by looking at it".

Some caps are naturally bulged. It's tough to say exactly how much "bulge" constitutes a failed or failing cap. I'd hate to see people replacing caps because they see a slight convex surface on the top of the cap.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming....
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chiblerPinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

If you see enough of a certain cap on a board, you get an eye for one that looks odd.

ESR usually seals their fate.

I've seen a few bulging on wpc drivers...and one in a hurricane went boom like a gun right near my face....was pretty gnarly...

Yes...as I clarified my comments...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

You aren't the first person to pull a through hole.
Now you have the experience for the next job.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info