Hello

The ticket hasn't appeared yet.

Perhaps this will help -

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

LTG : )

You may need to bend the switches. They are to be in contact so when hit t he switch releases. I had the issue and just bent rtf he switches a little.

I had the same problem when I got my WOZ. Follow LTG's advise as that is the adjustment you need to make.

Yeah, the witch target is kinda weird, with 2 NC switches that open when the target is struck. And the target has a weird pivot behavior to it.

No one likes a noisy witch.....

I'm having the same issue. I've tried loosening the four nuts in the photo... There simply isn't room to maneuver these switches as they're butted right against the witch light. When I press the bottom of the target with my finger, it triggers the switch, but the ball only contacts the mid to top of the target, and rarely triggers the switch. I can't see how to resolve this.

Is it normal for the top of the plate to not trigger the switches (the bottom works great.) I imagine that this is fine since only an air ball would hit the plate this way but I just wanna double check.

Any other tips for adjusting this switch? The way its dialed in now, hard direct hits to the plate don't register, but soft hits / ricochet shots are perfect.

Having the same issues as the op, and others im guessing.

There is indeed a led board lodged against one of the switches, on our woz anyway. Surely there are more with this allignment issue. Its just not allowing any backward adjustment.

I notched out some of the board, its got plenty meat, and now its fully adjustable, and after 2 months its just a new game, never realised it was'nt as intended, now it functions, witch melted on the first game and massive improvement on the GC score

Witch hurry-up was a chore, no fun,always the missing objective, no more...

Hope more will check this and open up the gameplay

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zucot
I just came across something regarding this. My harder hits weren’t registering either I thought, but then I noticed I was hearing a metallic sound. The ball was actually striking above the plate, not the plate itself. It looks like my flipper rubber wasn’t on in the right position. I adjusted it and it seems to be playing much better now.

Dialing that flipper down a hair is also a big help. It really doesn’t need to be so high since you’re never trying to go up a ramp or anything. I went down fro 20 to 15.

I'm having the same problem with switch 57 getting stuck.

I've been messing around with loosening the screws and bending the arm of the switch, but now the problem seems to have gotten worse. The witch does not register hits anymore.

If I do a switch test by hand, the swithes work, so I must have bent the arm too much. Now I'm not sure anymore what the switches should look like in the switch matrix. I mean should the switchbox for switch 57 in the switch test screen be blue or green when the machine is turned on?

And which way should I bend the arm of the switch? Towards the black body or away from it?

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

LTG : )

While I appreciate your reply, I already read the entire thread and did all of that (including your previous reply). So I'll summarize my questions again:

1. Should the switchbox for switch 57 (and 58) in the switch test screen be blue or green when the machine is turned on (without touching anything)?
2. Which way should I bend the arm of the switch? Towards the black body or away from it?

Witch switches are normally closed and then open when the ball hits the impact plate. The opposite of most microswitches which are normally open and then closed by the action of the ball. So the normally open microswitches on the matrix grid are blue when at rest whereas the witch switches are not blue.

I'm having the opposite problem where the right witch switch always reads stuck open. I can clearly see its making the proper contact with the plate and I can play around with it in a switch test by pushing on the plate and seeing it change from open to closed. But just when I think it's fine it'll go back to registering as stuck open again.

EDIT: OK nevermind. I'll spare Lloyd the trouble of having to repost his suggestion again. That's what fixed it.

As it turns out, adjusting the placement of the switchplate or even bending the switch arms isn't helping me much. I've got the switchplate moved as close as possible to the switch arms. I'm honestly starting to think the springs for the switchplate aren't doing their job anymore. The plate just isn't returning to it's proper neutral position so the switches will frequently register as active. I've gone from the right switch not working right, to both switches not working right after all my attempts to fix.

I've done this so many times, I've dropped and lost three of the nuts inside the machine! (That's when I decided to quit - and after breaking a stud off one of the spots where a nut goes. ) So this just hasn't been my day.

Should I look into new springs, or keep trying adjustments? And y'all wouldn't happen to know what size these tiny nuts are? (M5? M2.5?) I'm going to need about 50 more of them.

Page C-44 in the manual. 2-56 X 1/2" HWH MS

LTG : )

Ah yes, I see now - item 8e. Thanks Lloyd.

So this problem is about to make me quit pinball. Once I get one switch to work right, I add the second switch and then it messes everything up. (Either a switch shows stuck open, or can no longer register. Fix one switch, and then the problem flips over to the other switch.) Hours of bending arms and tightening/retightening nuts aren't helping. The switches no longer return to their proper state in unison. Between me breaking a stud off one spot due to accidentally overtightening to me creating a secret treasure trove of tiny hex nuts hidden throughout my machine because I keep dropping them and losing them, I'm ready to sell this machine over a microswitch error! I absolutely cannot believe a damn microswitch has me so beaten.

Is there anyway to purchase the entire witch assembly again? (Part 52-0032-00) Drastic I know - but I'm sick of this, plus it's the only way to now tighten two nuts for the right switch. Unfortunately I do not see this part available from JJP. But since I've gone insane who knows - maybe it's right there in plain sight.

I don't know if it's available. Call Shannan during business hours.

LTG : )

Just wanted to provide an update that I fixed my problem and hopefully this solution will help others. In my case, the left and right switches were always showing as stuck open. So I first removed the insulator and brackets attached to one side of each microswitch (as circled in my first photo). With these removed, I could now remove the switch arms. To do this, I inserted a tiny flathead screwdriver in the spot where the bracket attaches to a tiny nub on the side of the switch casing (like I’m doing in the second photo). With a twist of the screwdriver, the arm should pop right off. Then I reattached it to the next nub down (a red arrow is pointing to it in the second photo).

After making this change and reassembling everything, the witch was as good as new. Switches now registered correctly and all is well.
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Thanks for the tip.I have the same trouble with YBR.I adjusted it 50 times. It's either stuck open or stuck closed. Then it will work for 8-9 tests and not work again.I will definitely be trying moving the arm.Thanks

rennervision I have the same issue on my 2019 rr woz rerelease. Both right and left witch switches are "stuck open". I can manipulate the switches by pushing on the top of the plates with my fingers and they work but a ball hitting the plates does not trigger the switches.

I'm curious, what do I need to do to get the assembly out like you did rennervision? Does anything need to come off the top of the PF or just the bottom?

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

LTG : )

I read where you posted that but I'm thinking my switch levers have probably popped off their little black nubs like rennervisions did. If this is correct, I'll need to fix that first.

How do I get that assembly that rennervision posted a pic of ... out so I can see the switches themselves?

Lastly, I have a munchkin loop switch error. i honestly, have no idea where the munchkin loop or its switches are. Can you explain it to me like I am 5 yro?

I have done one sorry.

See the spinning house playfield ? Look around the lane around the house. Lop switches are on that lane. If you haven't had the house spinning and keep shooting the loop around the spinning house, they may have popped up in error because they haven't been hit recently.

Boo boo, gaa gaa, gobly gook.

LTG : )

Lloyd's suggestion helped a lot. However, another problem I had was that, when the switch when closed, the little wheel rubbed against the black plastic where the screws are that Lloyd said to adjust, and it would get stuck. You can loosen the screws on the switch itself to adjust a little bit so that it won't get stuck. With both adjusted, nothing sticks and the switches work.

Maybe this will help someone else.