OK - adding to this thread. The video posted above is fantastic because it shows you what you need to adjust to get it right. I am not trying to insult anyone, but even with the video, I had a hard time. I believe the reason I had such a hard time was because I didn't understand how it worked. So in my simple layman's terms - here goes:

- The house spins and eventually stops. If you look underneath the witches door, there is a black plunger. That plunger is what actually pushes the witch's door.
- By changing the first setting (the house delay), you are actually changing the position where the house stops - relative to the plunger. The plunger needs to be in the right spot for physics to allow it to lever the witch door down.
- Adding numbers to the setting moves the house counterclockwise. Reducing numbers of that setting move the house clockwise. So you are basically adjusting where the house stops each time to try and align the plunger in the right spot to give you a 90 degree door when the witches feet are down.
- The second adjustment is force of the coil so you are not overpowering the door or reducing the life of the coil. Once you have adjusted step one satisfactorily, just as the video says, adjust the force so that the door goes down. In mine this was very noticeable. One number off and the door would not go down. Upped it by one and the door went a perfect 90 and stayed as it should while the coil was firing.
- Only other point I would make is that as you do step one, and you make a change to that value - spin the house before you check the witch's door. You have to do that with each time you change a value because remember - those values are what is determining where the house stops relative to the plunger for the witch's door.

I hope I have not offended anyone by posting these and the video is VERY good and was a great deal of help, but if I had has this little bit of information, it would have gone a lot quicker for me. All the best.

What it really means is that if you accidentally clock the house (by adding or subtracting values in step one) too far, the solenoid gets jammed behind the witch door. It's not a huge deal and you just tap or move the house slightly (and you may have to wiggle the door) to free it. Then add or subtract more to ensure it doesn't happen again.

By definition, if you jam the solenoid, the house is clocked too much and needs to rotate COUNTER clockwise. So you would add numbers during step one. Hope this helps.

Which wire was loose? Have the same issue. It is landing in the same spot, it is just not landing in the right spot. Same issue as others have had. In test and calibrated it's fine, but when I switch to game mode, it is not landing in the right spot. Again - in game mode it seems to be landing in the same spot, not a random spot, it's just not the correct spot.

Double and triple checked all connections. They are tight and I still have the issue. I have compensated for it in the calibration, but it needs to be looked at by the JJP team because it shouldn't be that way.

OK - definitely a problem with the house. OIt's almost as if it is not holding a calibration. Stops in a different spot every time. Took glass off and activated munchkinland several times. Each time, the house opened differently - even though I had calibrated it perfectly in test. Gonna open a trouble ticket with Lloyd. Again - checked all cables and everything was tight.

Update - Still not working properly.
- All connections checked.
- Mini-PF pulled again just to make sure no wires were kinked or loose
- Checked all connections to PC assembly
- Door/house are perfectly calibrated in test mode

I activated the house in game mode (manually) three times and each time the house stopped in a slightly different place and the door opened differently.

This seems like it would almost have to be a software control issue during game play because in test it works fine. There is obviously nothing binding and everything is tight as it should be. Thoughts? Anyone else still having this issue?

Just want to check - have you played it in game mode and actuated the spinning house and opened the leg door? I ask because the game calibrates fine, it's just in game mode that it doesn't work properly and stops in a different location each time causing the door not to open as it should.

Let us know. I actually hate to say it, but I hope yours doesn't work right as well, so at least we have some consistency. I really think this is a software vice hardware problem given the symptoms. Hopefully Alex will chime in.

Anyone still having this spinning house issue? I.e. - that you calibrate it, but when you go into game mode, and activate munchkinland, the house doesn't stop in the same location every time so the door doesn't open correctly every time?

Ok - Reviving this thread because frankly it's annoying. Calibrated in test mode, and when I go to the game, the house stops at a different point every time. It's slight enough that the legs pop out a different amount every time. In test, they seem to pop out as they should. I have checked and triple checked every connector. Optos are tight. I have seen from this thread that I am not the only one having this issue, just wondering if anyone has figured out a solution to it. Why would it work right in test and not in game mode. Hoping for some thoughts from the pros. Thanks!

And you can't just calibrate by compensation because the house doesn't stop in the same spot everytime...Tried that too...

???

It looks like this is a known issue/design flaw. I hope JJP fixes it. The spinning house and legs are a great feature.

I still have an open ticket with JJP and so far - no solution. No one has any idea why it does it, but it happens with A LOT of people's machines. Unfortunately, it has not "been taken care of."

I took the mini playfield off again today and pulled the motor, etc off to ensure everything was put back tight. There is still a "slight" amount of slop in the house, but that is not going away. Those allen screws are cranked tight - so tight I broke off the tip of one of my allen tips in one of the screws....Not a big deal, but they are tight!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Tc2ywmnc_no

Haven't put it back together yet, but I have no allusions that it will work properly...

Well, replaced motor and optical disk and same issue. Recalibrated it once it was all put back together and it seemed to drop correctly twice, then back to the old bag of tricks....Officially frustrated.

Doesn't matter. Not trying to be sarcastic, but it doesn't. At the moment I am at 14/15 respectively but the numbers each game may need for cal is totally different so you can't compare them I the settings for another game. To put it in perspective, before I swapped the motor I was at 7/13 dialed in. Now I am at 14/15 dialed in. It's not a coil settings issue.