(Topic ID: 76412)

WOZ spinning house calibration problem


By zucot

5 years ago



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  • 77 posts
  • 35 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Lilpro66
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

I have it dialed in perfectly in test, but when I'm actually playing the house doesn't stop in the right position and the legs hardly pop out if at all.

Anyone else run into this?

#2 5 years ago

During game play does it always stop at the same spot ?

If so, over compensate for it when you dial it in.

There have been a few brought to my attention, but I didn't hear afterwards so no idea the cure.

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago

I noticed it during gameplay as well. Every time it stops seems to be slightly different.

#4 5 years ago

Just out of curiosity, what are your settings?

I'm at +5, 22.

#5 5 years ago

Same here, during game play the stop is slightly different each time.

If I remember correctly I'm at +8, 22

#6 5 years ago

The legs are supposed to pop out? Mine never have.

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from playernumber4:

The legs are supposed to pop out? Mine never have.

My legs never came out either. I have gone in the menu and made it easier for them to fall too.
I just assumed I had to complete a certain task to get to that mode.
Alex or Lloyd, can you clarify when the legs come down?

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from playernumber4:

The legs are supposed to pop out? Mine never have.

i think 10 loops ???

#9 5 years ago

Loop the house X number of times (its adjustable) and when the ball drops from the upper playfield the magnet catches it and you are in munchkin mode... At that point the witches feet should pop out.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Jasontaps:

My legs never came out either. I have gone in the menu and made it easier for them to fall too.
I just assumed I had to complete a certain task to get to that mode.
Alex or Lloyd, can you clarify when the legs come down?

They pop out when you start a munchkin mode. It simulates her getting crushed by the house, and then the munchkins celebrate with a scoring mode I think.

#11 5 years ago

Ah, makes sense!

Thanks guys.

#12 5 years ago

#13 5 years ago

Feet don't pop out for long, as soon as you hit Munchkin mode take a look!

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

During game play does it always stop at the same spot ?
If so, over compensate for it when you dial it in.
There have been a few brought to my attention, but I didn't hear afterwards so no idea the cure.
LTG : )

That's the problem. It seems like the house doesn't always stop in the same spot during a real game.

I believe my settings are +8 on the house and 17 or 18 on the coil.

Could it be a code problem not seen in test? I have tried to over compensate the settings but it didn't work either.

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Feet don't pop out for long, as soon as you hit Munchkin mode take a look!

Definitely a feature that desperately needs to be fleshed out with fan fare, lights, video, sound, etc. It should be a huge deal that the house landed on the Witch. I realize that software isn't done, especially in stuff like this, so, just sayin'.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

-8
#16 5 years ago

Do you guys even hear what you're talking about?!?

HAHHahahahahahahaa

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

I noticed it during gameplay as well. Every time it stops seems to be slightly different.

There is a part on the shaft that interrupts the optos. Be sure it is tight.

LTG : )

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Jasontaps:

My legs never came out either.

Your house might need to be tweaked a little more.

LTG : )

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from BagAJellyDonuts:

Just out of curiosity, what are your settings?

I'm at +5, 22.

These can be different on every game.

LTG : )

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

That's the problem. It seems like the house doesn't always stop in the same spot during a real game.
I believe my settings are +8 on the house and 17 or 18 on the coil.
Could it be a code problem not seen in test? I have tried to over compensate the settings but it didn't work either.

i have the same problem and have just given up - i did get it perfect one time - but then there was a code update - and everytime i get it perfect in test - once the game starts it's always slightly off - i have tweaked it so many times that i just gave up

thanks ed

#21 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Your house might need to be tweaked a little more.
LTG : )

Na, as some people mentioned here, I only looped the house enough times once. When the ball fell through the Munchkin playfield, I saw the magnet under there grab the ball for the first time, so my eyes were drawn on that.
I am sure my machine is ok, its just me. I need to get better at it

#22 5 years ago

I had the same problem. Every time the house landed at a different spot. I looked under the play field and noticed a loose connector under the house area. Plugged it in and works perfectly

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from MrDo:

Do you guys even hear what you're talking about?!?
HAHHahahahahahahaa

Yup. Calibrating a toy feature on a pinball machine. And this is so funny why?

#24 5 years ago

OK - adding to this thread. The video posted above is fantastic because it shows you what you need to adjust to get it right. I am not trying to insult anyone, but even with the video, I had a hard time. I believe the reason I had such a hard time was because I didn't understand how it worked. So in my simple layman's terms - here goes:

- The house spins and eventually stops. If you look underneath the witches door, there is a black plunger. That plunger is what actually pushes the witch's door.
- By changing the first setting (the house delay), you are actually changing the position where the house stops - relative to the plunger. The plunger needs to be in the right spot for physics to allow it to lever the witch door down.
- Adding numbers to the setting moves the house counterclockwise. Reducing numbers of that setting move the house clockwise. So you are basically adjusting where the house stops each time to try and align the plunger in the right spot to give you a 90 degree door when the witches feet are down.
- The second adjustment is force of the coil so you are not overpowering the door or reducing the life of the coil. Once you have adjusted step one satisfactorily, just as the video says, adjust the force so that the door goes down. In mine this was very noticeable. One number off and the door would not go down. Upped it by one and the door went a perfect 90 and stayed as it should while the coil was firing.
- Only other point I would make is that as you do step one, and you make a change to that value - spin the house before you check the witch's door. You have to do that with each time you change a value because remember - those values are what is determining where the house stops relative to the plunger for the witch's door.

I hope I have not offended anyone by posting these and the video is VERY good and was a great deal of help, but if I had has this little bit of information, it would have gone a lot quicker for me. All the best.

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from toro1966:

OK - adding to this thread. The video posted above is fantastic because it shows you what you need to adjust to get it right. I am not trying to insult anyone, but even with the video, I had a hard time. I believe the reason I had such a hard time was because I didn't understand how it worked. So in my simple layman's terms - here goes:
- The house spins and eventually stops. If you look underneath the witches door, there is a black plunger. That plunger is what actually pushes the witch's door.
- By changing the first setting (the house delay), you are actually changing the position where the house stops - relative to the plunger. The plunger needs to be in the right spot for physics to allow it to lever the witch door down.
- Adding numbers to the setting moves the house counterclockwise. Reducing numbers of that setting move the house clockwise. So you are basically adjusting where the house stops each time to try and align the plunger in the right spot to give you a 90 degree door when the witches feet are down.
- The second adjustment is force of the coil so you are not overpowering the door or reducing the life of the coil. Once you have adjusted step one satisfactorily, just as the video says, adjust the force so that the door goes down. In mine this was very noticeable. One number off and the door would not go down. Upped it by one and the door went a perfect 90 and stayed as it should while the coil was firing.
- Only other point I would make is that as you do step one, and you make a change to that value - spin the house before you check the witch's door. You have to do that with each time you change a value because remember - those values are what is determining where the house stops relative to the plunger for the witch's door.
I hope I have not offended anyone by posting these and the video is VERY good and was a great deal of help, but if I had has this little bit of information, it would have gone a lot quicker for me. All the best.

This is a great writeup, but I still had it behave perfectly in test and inconsistently in actual gameplay. I'll poke around under the playfield tonight.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

This is a great writeup, but I still had it behave perfectly in test and inconsistently in actual gameplay. I'll poke around under the playfield tonight.

Same here.

It is as if the the "toy" loses a bit of power when it is actuated during a game. IOW, during the dedicated test, it is at 100% but when it trips during a game, it is losing a small percentage of the calibration.

The attached video does mention one issue that must be noted, if you exceed the clocking of the house, it is very easy to jam the solenoid.

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from BagAJellyDonuts:

Same here.
It is as if the the "toy" loses a bit of power when it is actuated during a game. IOW, during the dedicated test, it is at 100% but when it trips during a game, it is losing a small percentage of the calibration.
The attached video does mention one issue that must be noted, if you exceed the clocking of the house, it is very easy to jam the solenoid.

What do you mean by "exceed the clocking of the house"?

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from StevenP:

What do you mean by "exceed the clocking of the house"?

What it really means is that if you accidentally clock the house (by adding or subtracting values in step one) too far, the solenoid gets jammed behind the witch door. It's not a huge deal and you just tap or move the house slightly (and you may have to wiggle the door) to free it. Then add or subtract more to ensure it doesn't happen again.

By definition, if you jam the solenoid, the house is clocked too much and needs to rotate COUNTER clockwise. So you would add numbers during step one. Hope this helps.

#29 5 years ago
Quoted from StevenP:

What do you mean by "exceed the clocking of the house"?

toro's explanation is correct. What I found is that when I went way off the end of the adjustments, it was possible to trip the door solenoid and the pin would jam against the house. When that happened, the solenoid would not retract. All it took was a gentle push to get it to retract.

I don't know if there is an issue with the adjusted value of the house during the test being different that what the house will stop at during game play. I played the game for quite a while before I saw the test. That I get a different result from the test versus the playing mode is the concern. So I'm guessing some people have already figured out the same thing, set it up in the test and add a point or two to rotation to get the intended result when the door action is called for during play.

#30 5 years ago

I had the playfield up last night to adjust a few switches, double checked all of the connectors for the mini playfield (none felt loose), and every time since then the house has performed during actual gameplay (without adjusting my test mode settings.) Looks like misc90 may have been on to something.

#31 5 years ago
Quoted from MiSC90:

I had the same problem. Every time the house landed at a different spot. I looked under the play field and noticed a loose connector under the house area. Plugged it in and works perfectly

Which wire was loose? Have the same issue. It is landing in the same spot, it is just not landing in the right spot. Same issue as others have had. In test and calibrated it's fine, but when I switch to game mode, it is not landing in the right spot. Again - in game mode it seems to be landing in the same spot, not a random spot, it's just not the correct spot.

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

ยป YouTube video

Thanks for posting this vid, exactly what I needed!

#33 5 years ago

Double and triple checked all connections. They are tight and I still have the issue. I have compensated for it in the calibration, but it needs to be looked at by the JJP team because it shouldn't be that way.

#34 5 years ago

OK - definitely a problem with the house. OIt's almost as if it is not holding a calibration. Stops in a different spot every time. Took glass off and activated munchkinland several times. Each time, the house opened differently - even though I had calibrated it perfectly in test. Gonna open a trouble ticket with Lloyd. Again - checked all cables and everything was tight.

#35 5 years ago

Update - Still not working properly.
- All connections checked.
- Mini-PF pulled again just to make sure no wires were kinked or loose
- Checked all connections to PC assembly
- Door/house are perfectly calibrated in test mode

I activated the house in game mode (manually) three times and each time the house stopped in a slightly different place and the door opened differently.

This seems like it would almost have to be a software control issue during game play because in test it works fine. There is obviously nothing binding and everything is tight as it should be. Thoughts? Anyone else still having this issue?

#36 5 years ago

I'm not gonna even bother calibrating it until the software is fixed. Sounds like an exercise in futility. I have not even gone up to 1.25 yet due to some of the issues I've read about.

#37 5 years ago

I went ahead and loaded 1.25 and its playing perfectly.

I'd like to thank you guys for the info on calibrating the spinning house. Your easy to understand instructions had me calibrating the spinning house in no time and it is now working exactly as it is supposed to at +4 and 15.
This game is playing awesome with 150 games on it now in three weeks of mostly trouble free ownership. Ya just have to spend some time getting all your settings where you want them.

Now does anyone have instructions for getting the flying monkey to pick up the ball every time? It seems like the magnet on the playfield does'nt want to give up the ball about half of the time. This game will be at 100% if I can get that ironed out,

#38 5 years ago
Quoted from playernumber4:

I went ahead and loaded 1.25 and its playing perfectly.
I'd like to thank you guys for the info on calibrating the spinning house. Your easy to understand instructions had me calibrating the spinning house in no time and it is now working exactly as it is supposed to at +4 and 15.
This game is playing awesome with 150 games on it now in three weeks of mostly trouble free ownership. Ya just have to spend some time getting all your settings where you want them.
Now does anyone have instructions for getting the flying monkey to pick up the ball every time? It seems like the magnet on the playfield does'nt want to give up the ball about half of the time. This game will be at 100% if I can get that ironed out,

Just want to check - have you played it in game mode and actuated the spinning house and opened the leg door? I ask because the game calibrates fine, it's just in game mode that it doesn't work properly and stops in a different location each time causing the door not to open as it should.

#39 5 years ago

Somebody got that far last night and said it opened etc, but I do not know if it opened fully. When I calibrated it today it would not open before changing the calibration....so you might have a point there. I'll have to try it with the glass off tomorrow.
Now that I think of it I have never seen the munchkin magnet hold a ball yet either.....

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from playernumber4:

Somebody got that far last night and said it opened etc, but I do not know if it opened fully. When I calibrated it today it would not open before changing the calibration....so you might have a point there. I'll have to try it with the glass off tomorrow.
Now that I think of it I have never seen the munchkin magnet hold a ball yet either.....

Let us know. I actually hate to say it, but I hope yours doesn't work right as well, so at least we have some consistency. I really think this is a software vice hardware problem given the symptoms. Hopefully Alex will chime in.

#41 5 years ago

A little OT but isn't there a bug with 1.25 in which multiple CB modes run at once as well as issues with the ball being diverted to the munchkin playfield instead of the lock ramp when neither is lit. I too have not updated to 1.25 because of reported issues but if these were just isolated issues ill go ahead. Lmk. Thanks.

#42 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

A little OT but isn't there a bug with 1.25 in which multiple CB modes run at once as well as issues with the ball being diverted to the munchkin playfield instead of the lock ramp when neither is lit. I too have not updated to 1.25 because of reported issues but if these were just isolated issues ill go ahead. Lmk. Thanks.

I haven't noticed these issues. running 1.25 here.
I'm still getting used to the rules. I could easily have missed something, the game can be quite bonkers when you get the stacks going

#43 5 years ago

Good to hear. When 1.25 was released it sounded like it was doing some buggy shit so held off. Ill give it a crack tomorrow, the right ramp YBR rape of 1.24 is driving me nuts.

#44 5 years ago

Only sometimes you can advance YBR with the ramp. Not sure the rule on that

#45 5 years ago
Quoted from RawleyD:

Only sometimes you can advance YBR with the ramp. Not sure the rule on that

V1.24-ramp always advances YBR.
V1.25-YBR advance alternates between left or right orbit, and ramp.

I've installed V1.25 on many games now without issue. The lightshow alone is worth the upgrade. And the ramp YBR thing on V1.24 is just WAY too easy.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#46 5 years ago
Quoted from playernumber4:

I went ahead and loaded 1.25 and its playing perfectly.
I'd like to thank you guys for the info on calibrating the spinning house. Your easy to understand instructions had me calibrating the spinning house in no time and it is now working exactly as it is supposed to at +4 and 15.
This game is playing awesome with 150 games on it now in three weeks of mostly trouble free ownership. Ya just have to spend some time getting all your settings where you want them.
Now does anyone have instructions for getting the flying monkey to pick up the ball every time? It seems like the magnet on the playfield does'nt want to give up the ball about half of the time. This game will be at 100% if I can get that ironed out,

Forgive me if I'm stating the obvious, but you need to make one specific shot in order to have the monkey "capture Dorothy". It's the right outer orbit shot. If the ball comes in from the other side, or is simply plunged up there at a ball start, it will not capture... Which is cool! If you're making that shot, and it's still missing, that's a different issue.

A few times I've missed the shot by not having enough power on the ball, and the monkey captures anyway, though no ball is present.

#47 5 years ago

The ball is already on the magnet when the monkey comes down and trys to pick it up. The two magnets fight for the ball, and half of the time it stays on the playfield magnet....the monkey magnet goes back up empty. Then the playfield magnet releases the ball to the lane area.

I checked the spinning house calibration in game play tonight and it still works perfectly as it did after the calibration process. And the munchkin magnet is working fine too. This game will be all zeroed in after figuring out how to adjust that monkey magnet. It looks like the monkey could go a little more to the right, and the extra time to go further both ways will probably get the timing right for the playfield magnet to release the ball.

I had to grind some more material off the ring on the bottom pop bumper too after finding some metal shards under it. 006.JPG001.JPG

#48 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

A little OT but isn't there a bug with 1.25 in which multiple CB modes run at once as well as issues with the ball being diverted to the munchkin playfield instead of the lock ramp when neither is lit. I too have not updated to 1.25 because of reported issues but if these were just isolated issues ill go ahead. Lmk. Thanks.

I have noticed CB issues. I have seen it display weak flippers but activate lights out.

As for the ramp, in 1.25 for me the change was that twister now overrules lock (it was opposite before). However, lights are wrong. Lock is lit not twister. It makes it easier to stack.

#49 5 years ago

Anyone still having this spinning house issue? I.e. - that you calibrate it, but when you go into game mode, and activate munchkinland, the house doesn't stop in the same location every time so the door doesn't open correctly every time?

#50 5 years ago
Quoted from toro1966:

Anyone still having this spinning house issue? I.e. - that you calibrate it, but when you go into game mode, and activate munchkinland, the house doesn't stop in the same location every time so the door doesn't open correctly every time?

Yep. It sometimes stops a little bit off the mark and when that happens the door doesn't go all the way down. Not a big deal but would be nice if it worked properly everytime.

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