Got mine #139 yesterday,delivered in the rain! All is well on that front.

I tightened the flipper assemblies, adjusted the drop target the best I could.

I have noticed that sometimes the ball kickout delay is too long, for instance,on a Toto Escapes minigame, the timer ran out before the ball was kicked out to play... is there an adjustment for that?

Check the switch in the shooter lane and that the trough connectors are on tight. That should never happen unless it couldn't shoot into the lane.

Kick out all 5 balls by manually pushing the kicker near the trough. Set screen to switch test and place a balls back in one by one - you should see a green light for each ball. Push on the trough switch and that should light up green as well. If this doesn't pinpoint your problem at least you've seen a neat light show. While you're in switch mode look for any red lights or flickering from amber to green lights - rock the machine as you do this. BTW - thanks to JJP for the best/easiest test mode I've ever seen. Always do what Pinchroma says first.

^. If those basic steps I outlined don't help what is listed above is absolutely something to check and in another thread a link was posted to a blog entry about adjusting the opto boards.

can you tighten up the castle flipper without having to remove the mini pf?
last night my lower left flipper fell apart i found the parts and put it back together and tightened all the others except that castle flipper

can someone please post some RR pics. mine is still in box and i am so busy i don't know when i will be able to open it up. would love to see detailed pics. thanks, ant

knock on wood - the castle flipper is the only one I haven't had trouble with. If it requires removal of the mini pf you may want to wait until the flipper fails to return to rest position which is usually the first sign of trouble - unless others have had trouble with the castle flipper. That said, I'd definitely tighten the ones I could easily get to before the first game is played - it only takes a few minutes.

Ok, discovered that the issue is completely different, My wife (gotta Love her) she described the issue to me wrong before I got to play it today... the opto and switches are all fine, the ball keeps stalling when kicked out to the shooter lane, some times it kicks out perfect, sometimes it kicks 6-10 times before the ball finally lands in the shooter lane, I contacted JJ to see if they have a solution... waiting to hear back

http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html

Check this out. First please go to Settings - Coils - ball trough VUK, and make it a little stronger. See if that does it.

LTG : )

Mine did that too, kicked the power up a notch or two in settings and that did the trick.

Good to know.

Got it fixed, had to adjust it a smidge

#400 checking in. Plays great.
IMG_7130.JPG

For the ruby red guys just getting your games. If your interested in a up and down volume plate pm me. Allows u to turn the game up and down with out opening the coin door. Can be done with a ball in play also. If u tried to adjust the volume with a ball in play u lose power when u open the door. This kit is a great way around that issue too.

Thanks,
Lorenzo
Pinnovators.com

image-481.jpgimage-766.jpg

I have this mod and it is great! I highly recommend it. It is so nice to be able to adjust volume on the fly as things are happening around you. It is top quality and easy to install.

Today is the day!!! My first NIB and my third pin. WOZ75 #540 will be delivered this afternoon.

What a great day, congratulations !

LTG : )

Congrats Big T and I live next town over I enjoyed the game when I played it at Pizza West.

WOZ 75th # 154 is currently waiting for me at to pick it up at the terminal !! This is my first NIB as well.

Another. What a great day ! Congratulations.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : Remember the WOZ hot line should you need help. Nine Five Two - 955-4121

Hey LTG, i need to remove the backbox to get the rrwoz in my basement coming up soon. I heard it should be pretty easy since all the boards are in the bottom of the cab. Got any tips for removal?

There are 5 cables.

2 speaker cables
1 monitor power
1 monitor video cable
1 topper power.

Disconnect all of those, remove the hinges from the cabinet (not from the head) and it will come right off. < 10 mins to do everything.

Sweet. Thats what i wanted to hear.

Man, that is so much easier than a WPC era game!

There's a lot easier way to remove the backbox. Only one step...

van damme roundhouse.png

I'm ready for my RRWOZ.

image.jpg

'Just a reminder for newbies - the release lever for the glass hold down can be tricky. Push it towards the front of the machine (or pull it towards you) as you lock down. 'Not sure it's supposed to work this way but it works for me.

Just got mine delivered today. #216. Will be setting it up tonight.

My WOZ ECLE is not like that. Just a simple pull to the side to open or lock it.

Congrats Jeff!

I spent a couple hours this morning fixing the Winkie guard switch, "Z" rollover switch that was stuck down, and trying (needs more work) to adjust the lockdown bar on my WOZ ECLE #889 that I picked up at JJP last week.

Thanks Lou,
I am going to keep an eye out for some of the issues posted here.

It really is a beautiful looking machine.

mine is like that pull towards the door to lock it

#214 was delivered on Friday morning, and we are absolutely loving it. We had some friends over last night, and they had to drag themselves out the door at 9pm, since their small children were exhausted. My daughter and her boyfriend kept telling me they wanted to take it home with them - maybe we should call the airline and see if it could be checked?

I do have some questions about setting, etc, since we are totally new to this. I saw someone mention a JJP forum for WOZ owners. Does anyone have info on joining that?

Call Jersey Jack Pinball on Monday and talk to Jen Guanieri and she can get you all set up with the Owners Group. It is a great community. Welcome to Oz!

anyone have a recommended pitch set up on woz

I have mine at 6 1/2 degrees.

LTG : )™

Easiest way. Rears all the way out. Fronts all the way in then level side to side.

For WOZ, legs about max height in the back and mostly down in the front leads to about 6.5 degrees on a level floor.

So to clarify.

There is no way to fold the monitor down or out in the back box. I have to re,ove the 4 screws around the outside and lay the monitor on the cab and ill be able to access all the connectors then?

When i took the glass out i couldnt see a damn thing and didnt have tools. I was just sizing up the job, ill bring a small socket set with me next time to do this.

The move is dec 19th. I should be taking the head off in the next week or so.

Forgot i had a picimage.jpg

The monitor does not need to come out to remove the head. Just disconnect a few cables (vga,power/led's/sound). Its like 4 or 5 cables and thats it. Then just remove the bolts from the hinges.

Where am I accessing these cables then? Nothing is accesible with the monitor still in there. Do i need to pull the playfield out to get to them?

You can disconnect the DVI/VGA cable from the back of the chassis if you want or from the back of the monitor. It can be reached from underneath when the head is folded down. The speaker cables and be reached from behind the speaker panel above the monitor. The LED cable for the topper is right there when you fold the head down - quick disconnect.

Ok...i swear i didnt see a single removable connector, but i was kinda in a hurry. Thank you.

Just got confirmation, my RRWOZ shipped out today.

Congrats. Got mine just over two weeks ago. It's great.

Just a reminder that we are still looking for another 25 or so 75th anniversary owners to join the list for a Ruby Red Shooter Base. If you are interested please add you name to the list at this topic

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rr-poweder-coat-shooter-base

75th Anniversary Shooter Base

I have one left in stock, ready for a new owner just in time for Christmas.

For the record, I did NOT see a break in the cable for the topper from the head to the cab, it was a solid cable.

I ended up disconnecting the DVI from the chassis under the playfield and the 2 RCA connectors. There was also a computer style connector that had a loop through connected to it that I would assume is the topper and backglass led power. This could not be reached without pulling the playfield up, which I might add, is super awesome and easy.

I have one question now. The mini (1/8") connector that is under the RCA's on the chassis for the backbox speakers, it looks like it is for the external sub input on the back of the machine? It seems as though this connector is causing some sound issues. I plug it in, but it seems loose. I found a happy medium, but it still seems like some sounds are faded or missing. What do you recommend for this? I unplugged it all the way, and that made more sounds disappear. I did not disconnect this cable when i removed the head. I also didnt hit it or put pressure on it at all to warrant damage.