(Topic ID: 180942)

WOZ Pricing


By pindude80

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

I am loosely thinking about buying a WOZ or maybe one day trading my GB premium for one. I don't really need or care for the high dollar version of WOZ. What is a fair price for the standard edition- used and new?

#2 3 years ago

NIB Standard Edition is $8500. If you are a past or present member of the US Armed Forces then i will cover the shipping for you. Used, right now there is one in Indiana for $6900. I feel this is a fair price.

Let me know if i can be of service to you on a nib machine.

Christopher
Authorized JJP Distributor

#3 3 years ago

I have a standard Woz with Invisiglass and shaker in minnesota I would let go for 6500.

Added over 3 years ago: Just let it go to someone local, with buyback rights.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from foxtj24:

I have a standard Woz with Invisiglass and shaker in minnesota I would let go for 6500.

If you were closer, this would be mine.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from foxtj24:

I have a standard Woz with Invisiglass and shaker in minnesota I would let go for 6500.

That's a nice price. I'm in the Chicagoland area and am interested.

#6 3 years ago

What does a lightly used minty WOZ RR LE go for these days?

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from JonH123:

What does a lightly used minty WOZ RR LE go for these days?

I got a nice one last year with some mods as part of a trade deal that would have valued it about $8200 and I was very happy to get it at that price.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I am loosely thinking about buying a WOZ or maybe one day trading my GB premium for one. I don't really need or care for the high dollar version of WOZ. What is a fair price for the standard edition- used and new?

If you're going used MAKE SURE ALL the lightboards are the newer buffered ones. If they aren't, you WILL replace all the boards eventually in the early run ECLE machines with the lust-worthy direct printed cabinets, at a cost of somewhere around $600 with the JJP out of warranty discounts. Pretty sure ALL ECLE machines are the old boards, and maybe only the first few RR ones might have old boards.

I made a post showing how to spot an old (unbuffered) vs new (buffered) WoZ lightboard. Here's a link to that post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/next-pin-buy-advice/page/2#post-3568442

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you're going used MAKE SURE ALL the lightboards are the newer buffered ones. If they aren't, you WILL replace all the boards eventually in the early run ECLE machines with the lust-worthy direct printed cabinets, at a cost of somewhere around $600 with the JJP out of warranty discounts. Pretty sure ALL ECLE machines are the old boards, and maybe only the first few RR ones might have old boards.
I made a post showing how to spot an old (unbuffered) vs new (buffered) WoZ lightboard. Here's a link to that post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/next-pin-buy-advice/page/2#post-3568442

I have an ECLE with non buffered boards but they are the ones in between and are the 7.5 volt not the 5v. Even with non buffered boards I have yet to blow any light boards! The game was Oct29 2013 build date just after going to the second gen boards but just before they added the buffer. I am going to look though maybe I do have the buffer but I don't think they had them yet. Anyway my game has a good thousand plays on it and I have yet to have any problems after initial issue with left castle door which I fixed long long ago. Since then no issues except dealing with the meatal shavings from that pop by the spinner. Adjusted ball guide which stopped that. I think I got a special game or something because the playfield is like glass still and no wear about the rainbow targets or in the throne room hole either. Sometimes you get a Lemon but I think I got the opposite! I hope I don't have to replace any of those light boards but so far I have no lights out and no problems. Perhaps It just likes my environment as I know some of the issues had to do with dry climates and humidity issues with static. Maybe mine is just well grounded like me!!! Love my WOZ!

-4
#10 3 years ago
Quoted from homebrood:

I have an ECLE with non buffered boards but they are the ones in between and are the 7.5 volt not the 5v. Even with non buffered boards I have yet to blow any light boards! The game was Oct29 2013 build date just after going to the second gen boards but just before they added the buffer. I am going to look though maybe I do have the buffer but I don't think they had them yet. Anyway my game has a good thousand plays on it and I have yet to have any problems after initial issue with left castle door which I fixed long long ago. Since then no issues except dealing with the meatal shavings from that pop by the spinner. Adjusted ball guide which stopped that. I think I got a special game or something because the playfield is like glass still and no wear about the rainbow targets or in the throne room hole either. Sometimes you get a Lemon but I think I got the opposite! I hope I don't have to replace any of those light boards but so far I have no lights out and no problems. Perhaps It just likes my environment as I know some of the issues had to do with dry climates and humidity issues with static. Maybe mine is just well grounded like me!!! Love my WOZ!

7.5v boards will definitely still fail because they were an interim solution before JJP understood the real issue. Essentially:

Buffered 5v > 7.5v unbuffered > 5v unbuffered.

Essentially time and heat will take out all the unbuffered boards eventually. You're lucky so far, but JJP tech staff has supposedly said once they start going, fixing the lighting problems on the old board machines is like nailing jello to a wall, and I agree. The one I maintain on route started with one board going bad, and eventually so many failed that I just replaced all the ones that were left to just be done with it, but it's been a more than 6 month process. Some of the boards that failed were 7.5v boards, btw. Also, of the mountain of boards replaced, a few buffered boards failed right away, too (which I would call a QC issue more than a technical problem with the buffered boards).

So, if someone is considering an ECLE, they need to know the risk they're taking and be aware that it may be another $600 or more out of pocket (plus time) to take care of it when (not if) it happens. If I were buying, I'd make that part of the price evaluation. It's a shame, too, because the direct print cabs on the ECLEs are STUNNING.

Supposedly JJP will be offering a DIY kit to upgrade WoZ to Hobbit style lighting system, but that will cost more than $1,000 and be a pretty substantial time investment.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

7.5v boards will definitely still fail because they were an interim solution before JJP understood the real issue. Essentially:
Buffered 5v > 7.5v unbuffered > 5v unbuffered.
Essentially time and heat will take out all the unbuffered boards eventually. You're lucky so far, but JJP tech staff has supposedly said once they start going, fixing the lighting problems on the old board machines is like nailing jello to a wall, and I agree. The one I maintain on route started with one board going bad, and eventually so many failed that I just replaced all the ones that were left to just be done with it, but it's been a more than 6 month process. Some of the boards that failed were 7.5v boards, btw. Also, of the mountain of boards replaced, a few buffered boards failed right away, too (which I would call a QC issue more than a technical problem with the buffered boards).
So, if someone is considering an ECLE, they need to know the risk they're taking and be aware that it may be another $600 or more out of pocket (plus time) to take care of it when (not if) it happens. If I were buying, I'd make that part of the price evaluation. It's a shame, too, because the direct print cabs on the ECLEs are STUNNING.
Supposedly JJP will be offering a DIY kit to upgrade WoZ to Hobbit style lighting system, but that will cost more than $1,000 and be a pretty substantial time investment.

Oh please...

Just because yours did, doesn't mean his will or mine or my buddies. Its an issue for sure but generally stating ( not if, when ) is crap.

Edit: Maybe if you leave it on 20 hours a day every day, I see your point. Otherwise in a home environment, you cant make that blanket statement.

#12 3 years ago

I think the NIB dealer pricing almost forces your hand to buy a local HUO.

-4
#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Oh please...
Just because yours did, doesn't mean his will or mine or my buddies. Its an issue for sure but generally stating ( not if, when ) is crap.
Edit: Maybe if you leave it on 20 hours a day every day, I see your point. Otherwise in a home environment, you cant make that blanket statement.

"When" covers to infinity, so yeah true statement, it is an issue of when, and if it's on a lot, sooner than later. It's a real risk when you're buying an ECLE version.

#14 3 years ago

So a machine made in the past six months should have the buffered lighting boards?

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

So a machine made in the past six months should have the buffered lighting boards?

Yeah. I'm pretty sure all or almost all RR ones do, but Standards are also apparently a mixed bag. This mostly affects ECLE ones and Standards. But you can check using the picture I posted to see what a buffered board looks like.

#16 3 years ago

The buffered board pictured is just one version. There are versions that have the circuitry integrated, no daughter board, so just looking for the daughter board isn't going to do it.

Also, I definitely don't agree that the earlier versions will fail. I've got many clients that don't have buffered boards that have never had an issue. If I was looking to buy though, I'd definitely lean very heavy toward a game with buffered boards. Buffered boards were created for a reason, better to have them if possible.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yeah. I'm pretty sure all or almost all RR ones do, and all the Standards do. This mostly affects ECLE ones. But you can check using the picture I posted to see what a buffered board looks like.

Completely wrong. Many standards were made before ECLEs and also many RR ones were as well. I know someone who got a standard right away at the start. I also know because my ECLE was one of the last ones and was pissed Ruby Reds (and standards) were being delivered before mine!

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

Also, I definitely don't agree that the earlier versions will fail. I've got many clients that don't have buffered boards that have never had an issue. If I was looking to buy though, I'd definitely lean very heavy toward a game with buffered boards. Buffered boards were created for a reason, better to have them if possible.
--

Do your customers play their games a lot though? Seems like a lot of people that buy newer games don't put many plays on them. You see them advertised all the time with only a couple hundred plays on them. I think pretty much everyone I knew with an early production WOZ had light board issues. If they didn't it is probably a case of not playing it enough and it will inevitably happen. And every early edition WOZ I've seen on route had light board issues as well. The people I know with later run and ruby red have had much better luck. WOZ is a fantastic game but I would steer clear of any with the unbuffered boards. Probably worth buying new if it's a game you really want.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

The buffered board pictured is just one version. There are versions that have the circuitry integrated, no daughter board, so just looking for the daughter board isn't going to do it.

Have a picture of the ones that are integrated for posterity? All JJP ever sent me to replace the non-buffered ones was the boards with the daughterboard, so that's all I have to take pictures of.

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Completely wrong. Many standards were made before ECLEs and also many RR ones were as well. I know someone who got a standard right away at the start. I also know because my ECLE was one of the last ones and was pissed Ruby Reds (and standards) were being delivered before mine!

See? That's why we have these forums. Firsthand experience to suss out the truth. Thanks for contributing.

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Do your customers play their games a lot though? Seems like a lot of people that buy newer games don't put many plays on them. You see them advertised all the time with only a couple hundred plays on them. I think pretty much everyone I knew with an early production WOZ had light board issues. If they didn't it is probably a case of not playing it enough and it will inevitably happen. And every early edition WOZ I've seen on route had light board issues as well. The people I know with later run and ruby red have had much better luck. WOZ is a fantastic game but I would steer clear of any with the unbuffered boards. Probably worth buying new if it's a game you really want.

Mine is 3 years old 7.5v pre daughter board. It was on location for a year turned on 7 days a week and used a fair bit at home. About 5k games on it. No board failures for me since a bad cable when I unboxed it and then broke a board because I messed with it powered up.

I thought the daughter boards were to protect against static and you only needed one of them?

I'm going over it now in detail after pulling it off location and it is in really good shape I am very pleased.

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

See? That's why we have these forums. Firsthand experience to suss out the truth. Thanks for contributing.

For what it's worth, mine is the 7.5v boards (pretty sure without the buffer). I had a single bad GI board fresh out of the box, but never had a problem since.

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Mine is 3 years old 7.5v pre daughter board. It was on location for a year turned on 7 days a week and used a fair bit at home. About 5k games on it. No board failures for me since a bad cable when I unboxed it and then broke a board because I messed with it powered up.
I thought the daughter boards were to protect against static and you only needed one of them?
I'm going over it now in detail after pulling it off location and it is in really good shape I am very pleased.

You definitely don't just need one, but once you have the daughterboard versions the lighting is way more stable.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

You definitely don't just need one, but once you have the daughterboard versions the lighting is way more stable.

What do you mean by stable? That implies some issues are intermittent.

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

What do you mean by stable? That implies some issues are intermittent.

You don't get the transient issues as a board (initially who knows which one) starts to fail. They usually don't go BAD straight out, but just start by being flakey, affecting lights downstream, too.

#26 3 years ago

I think if you could find a lightly used WOZ with low plays for 1K off factory pricing, GO FOR IT! But if you are simply saving less than 1K then I would go NIB. That way you get a one year + warranty and be the first to enjoy it.

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

I think if you could find a lightly used WOZ with low plays for 1K off factory pricing, GO FOR IT! But if you are simply saving less than 1K then I would go NIB. That way you get a one year + warranty and be the first to enjoy it.

You get a better monitor with the RR and late ECLE WoZ machines, too.

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