WOZ Playfield Swap Advice Needed


By Killerbooger

3 months ago


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There are 55 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 3 months ago

I am getting ready to do only my second playfield deconstruct and reconstruct on my WOZ ECLE. I have a new shiny PF to replace the disaster that is in there. The last one of these I did was a TFTC and it went ok. Lots of pics and lots of bags. This one scares the hell out of me though just because of the size of everything and complexity--TFTC had a lot of stuff but nothing like this.. Should I take everything off the top first then go to the backside or should I strip the backside first? There is a really awesome thread on PF swaps that I read but I was hoping that someone had maybe done one of these in particular already. I am ready for the 80-hour slogfest just want to get some thoughts on this one if anyone has any that will help.

#2 3 months ago

What's going on with your playfield? Did you get one of the Bader playfields with bad clear coat?

#4 3 months ago

I’m going to do this soon as well! Did you add any clear to the new pf? My spare has (some) hardware on it, so I’m on the fence about clearing it further.

#5 3 months ago

Not sure if this will help you but a cheaters tip I have done for years helps me and my random lapses of memory. lol I use an old iPad and set it up on one of those $10 flexy tripods. I set the tripod on the table I am working on so the iPad is basically hovering over the playfield like I'm a surgeon. While I still take Many pictures along the way with the phone, I run video with the iPad overhead to record Every screw and the order I removed them. As I disassemble I kind of hold each part up in my hand and say "short pan head screw 1.5 long" and do this through the entire surgery. Looks kind of corny but Really gives you a great reference guide later to reassemble and maintain proper order. Plus you can pause/rewind to take breaks and even zoom in on segments to refresh your memory. I haven't had a single extra part yet using this corny process. A cell phone would work as well and both record audio. WOZ is one hell of a challenge, I wish you luck!!

10
#6 3 months ago

PM me if you ever get stuck. I'm sure I can help.

#7 3 months ago

The game was in a bar and had a lot of crazy play on it. The cabinet is ok but I will be redoing that as well. It is a shame because this is one of the machines that had the art painted on the side (early version). I hate to cover it up but no choice. When I bought the machine apparently the guy that owned it was friends of some kind with JJ and he sent him a new signed playfield, and some other spare parts for the game. (That is what I was told). I now have all those parts.

Work to do:
The front of the cabinet has separated a little so I have to tighten up those fasteners that run from front to side.
Fix cabinet and apply new side art.(Ordered from JJP)
The topper is cracked have a new one to replace it(ordered from JJP)
New legs, and side rails (ordered from JJP)
Munchkin land has been beaten to hell. Will have to replace that and was not planning on it. $450 down the tubes there. If you are reading this and dont have a cliffy protector on that edge get one on there. I am going to order this today or tomorrow from JJP along with mylar protectors, new green lockdown bar, and a set of plastics.
Glass has a giant scratch right down the middle have a new one (ordered from JJP).
Replace all the rubber with titan bands (came with it)
Replace playfield (came with it)

I really am questioning my sanity on this one. I hate to see a really pretty game like this get trashed so I guess I am doing my part to bring it back from what is a really bad shape. The old playfield is terrible...I attached some pics. I like the idea of filming the whole thing on the ipad.

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#8 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

The game was in a bar and had a lot of crazy play on it. The cabinet is ok but I will be redoing that as well. It is a shame because this is one of the machines that had the art painted on the side (early version). I hate to cover it up but no choice. When I bought the machine apparently the guy that owned it was friends of some kind with JJ and he sent him a new signed playfield, and some other spare parts for the game. (That is what I was told). I now have all those parts.
Work to do:
The front of the cabinet has separated a little so I have to tighten up those fasteners that run from front to side.
Fix cabinet and apply new side art.(Ordered from JJP)
The topper is cracked have a new one to replace it(ordered from JJP)
New legs, and side rails (ordered from JJP)
Munchkin land has been beaten to hell. Will have to replace that and was not planning on it. $450 down the tubes there. If you are reading this and dont have a cliffy protector on that edge get one on there. I am going to order this today or tomorrow from JJP along with mylar protectors, new green lockdown bar, and a set of plastics.
Glass has a giant scratch right down the middle have a new one (ordered from JJP).
Replace all the rubber with titan bands (came with it)
Replace playfield (came with it)
I really am questioning my sanity on this one. I hate to see a really pretty game like this get trashed so I guess I am doing my part to bring it back from what is a really bad shape. The old playfield is terrible...I attached some pics. I like the idea of filming the whole thing on the ipad.

Holly cow they definitely got there moneys worth out of that playfield!! Film, photo, and take your time. You can do it and a worthy cause for a great game. There are Many awesome knowledgable owners on this forum to lend a hand or photo should you miss a step. Plus, you can always call the amazing Lloyd if you get stumped! He is the best of the best and I would be surprised if he didn't have a WOZ tattoo certifying his knowledge on the game! lol

#9 3 months ago

Wow, that is one trashed PF - did they never clean the game or replace the balls? I've see wear around the pops and on the edge of the munchkin mini PF but never near the Winkie drop / hole like that. Good luck with your project, should be one hell of an effort.

#10 3 months ago

Holy ***t! Did they swap the pinballs with freakin' rocks or something?!

#11 3 months ago

HAHAHA! That is funny, but probably true. I don't think this thing was ever cleaned--ever....ever....did I mention ever. I am certain that wax was a foregone conclusion as well. Why he didn't just buy a standard instead of a numbered unit I have no idea if you were going to let it get like this. Well I am 4 hours in...they way I figure it about 116 to go and about 80 beers. minimum with the other work. That is about 1 1/2 beers an hour for those doing the math. Probably what will really happen is I will work on this thing for about 8 hours, have a beer during that time and about 15 after I quit each day. I just hope that I am not so frustrated at the end that I don't want the game anymore. That has happened once before with a TRON arcade game I redid. Looked and played amazing but I was so pissed at it I couldn't stand to look at it.

#12 3 months ago

If it has 5V boards you should spend the $1500 to replace them all while doing the swap. Just a friendly tip from a previous owner of an ECLE who is friends with the man who bought the plagued machine from me. Constant issues, no help from JJP. Board failure galore on that thing...

#13 3 months ago

With the 2.0 lighting kit incoming (call JJP for an update) I’m waiting to swap for now.

#14 3 months ago

Just downloaded the manual...maybe the best manual I have EVER seen. Amazing! Will be a huge help!

#15 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

Just downloaded the manual...maybe the best manual I have EVER seen. Amazing! Will be a huge help!

The color manual that came with my RR is awesome.

#16 3 months ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

With the 2.0 lighting kit incoming (call JJP for an update) I’m waiting to swap for now.

This is great advice. Anyone that has chased light board problems on WOZ knows how much of a PITA it is to deal with it. If I were to buy another WOZ, it would have to have the 2.0 system in it or I would plan on changing out the original system and replacing with the 2.0 system.

#17 3 months ago

Have done this swap a couple of years ago. Was actually not too hard, but only because it was a “live” swap. I just took the parts from the original and put on the new. Made a simple rotisserie out of wood, which was essential. Took a lot of photos as usual.

I think I started with the light boards and their connecting cables, then solenoids, then all the cables and switches together. Labeled solenoid wires with painters tape and sharpie. Then turned it over and did the top.

I’ll try and dig up some photos if you need them (and I still have them).

#18 3 months ago

So you did the bottom before the top? I am doing it opposite of that.

#19 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

So you did the bottom before the top? I am doing it opposite of that.

Yep. But don’t think it makes any difference. I think I started with the light boards and magnets because they were easy and cleared a lot if stuff out quickly.
Also because everything on the top needs to be disconnected underneath. Saved a lot of flipping the playfield I think.

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#20 3 months ago

Also, leaving all the switches in the harness made it allot easier.

Here’s the end photo. Edit: Actually before the harness had been soldered to the coils.

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#21 3 months ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

With the 2.0 lighting kit incoming (call JJP for an update) I’m waiting to swap for now.

Quoted from BrianBannon:

This is great advice. Anyone that has chased light board problems on WOZ knows how much of a PITA it is to deal with it. If I were to buy another WOZ, it would have to have the 2.0 system in it or I would plan on changing out the original system and replacing with the 2.0 system.

This is great advice. JJP should be ready very soon with the new (2.0 light boards wiring harness and upgraded power supply). I Talked the Jen about price. Negotiable if you ask possibly for original owners . She my work with you if many tickets were submitted under WOZ SS number . Good Luck . I wish I had the skill to do a playfield swap .

#22 3 months ago

you dont do both at once though, a restore and a new part integration. you get the current setup working with the 2.0 system, then you move everything over.

#23 3 months ago
Quoted from lordloss:

you dont do both at once though, a restore and a new part integration. you get the current setup working with the 2.0 system, then you move everything over.

Because of troubleshooting?

#24 3 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Because of troubleshooting?

Typically because its easier to know where you are going if you know where you have been. Swapping the entire playfield over is a huge challenge. Knowing what works Before doing another conversion is simply smart play.

#25 3 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Because of troubleshooting?

Quoted from Yelobird:

Typically because its easier to know where you are going if you know where you have been. Swapping the entire playfield over is a huge challenge. Knowing what works Before doing another conversion is simply smart play.

Exactly. It can be done, but just have to be ready and be prepared to the max.

#26 3 months ago

This is where I am quitting for the day. Have a bunch of parts in the tumbler.

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#27 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

This is where I am quitting for the day. Have a bunch of parts in the tumbler.

Pictures are too clear. You clearly didn’t drink enough!!

#28 3 months ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

This is great advice. Anyone that has chased light board problems on WOZ knows how much of a PITA it is to deal with it. If I were to buy another WOZ, it would have to have the 2.0 system in it or I would plan on changing out the original system and replacing with the 2.0 system.

Agreed.... so glad i waited and picked up a low play newer rrwoz few weeks ago...

#29 3 months ago

Question for the wire ball guides. I pulled them all up and are in good shape after running in the tumbler. My question is what is the best way to reinstall these. The holes they go in will need to be drilled a little but I don't want to put them in too far, and I don't want them to be loose. Here is a before and after of the rail. If you don’t have a tumbler get one!

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#30 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

Question the think wire ball guides. I pulled them all up and are in good shape after running in the tumbler. My question is what is the best way to reinstall these. The holes they go in will need to be drilled a little but I don't want to put them in too far, and I don't want them to be loose. Here is a before and after of the rail. If you don’t have a tumbler get one!

Wow what a great thread. Your game is looking good.

#31 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

Question the think wire ball guides. I pulled them all up and are in good shape after running in the tumbler. My question is what is the best way to reinstall these. The holes they go in will need to be drilled a little but I don't want to put them in too far, and I don't want them to be loose. Here is a before and after of the rail. If you don’t have a tumbler get one!

I used the HEP method, find a piece of wood to slide under the all guide to set the height and then just use a hammer. Bryan Kelly said not to overthink this part. They were hammered in on an assembly line. It never feels good to hammer your new playfield but you’ll get over it after a few of the ball guides are done. I used a plastic tipped hammer, BTW.

#32 3 months ago

I use a scrap of 1/2" MDF under the wire guides. Right height, and protects the pf if u miss..

#33 3 months ago

Did the previous swapper or current swapper add clear to the new pf? Did the pf ship with some ball guides and stuff? I think mine has a bunch of hardware...

#34 3 months ago

Has anyone swapped in a kruzman cleared WOZ playfield yet? It'd be interesting to see that vs a factory cleared install

#35 3 months ago

I have been pounding them in...I wince every time I hit one with the hammer...Ill get over it. I will shoot some pics tomorrow night. I am polishing the flat rails to get the ball trails off of them the best I can. Maybe a little over the top but I am tearing this thing down to the bottom may as well. For the age, this thing is the dirtiest game I have ever seen. Really sad. I probably should have bought a low play HUO one but this is a lot more satisfying--and painful.

I have for the most part got the top cleared off. I have a good start getting all the posts and rubber in on the playfield. I have found it is way easier to hot-swap those from one playfield to the next. The number of holes on the board can be overwhelming and this makes me feel better if nothing else. I have about 9000 pictures and I can't say how much that has saved my ass on this thing. I literally have taken a part of and by the time I cleaned it and prepared to install it, I forgot where it belonged. Between that, and running around trying to figure out where my screwdriver was (was in my back pocket), I probably walked three miles around my table set up today.

I have cleaned every part in the ultrasonic and tumbled to polish. As soon as I get the flat rails on tomorrow I am going to begin to remove the bottom parts and install those. While the playfield is out I will do the cabinet work. Ill take some before and afters of that as well. I am hoping to have this thing done by the end of next week. Will be tough but it is a goal.

#36 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

I am hoping to have this thing done by the end of next week. Will be tough but it is a goal.

Good luck! Sounds more like a mini restore than a straight playfield swap. Mine was almost brand new when I swapped, so a hot swap straight over was all I had to do. Cleaning and polishing is a different story and your phone camera is definitely your best friend.

#37 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

I will shoot some pics tomorrow night. I am polishing the flat rails to get the ball trails off of them the best I can. Maybe a little over the top but I am tearing this thing down to the bottom may as well.

You may as well since you have it all apart; this product will make fast work of polishing the rails:
amazon.com link »

#38 3 months ago

I have a bench grinder with a wheel kind of like that and then a polisher on the other side. Already done.

#39 3 months ago

Labeling the stuff on the bottom of the cabinet is key. For lights on the tape I wrote the number and circle it to remind me it goes to lights and on coils, I Number the parts and the. I write coil and the number on the tape so I know which one it is for and then put a mark on one of the wires so I can quickly connect it without thinking when I get there. Ideally, when I get the harness over to the new field I don't want to waste a lot of time hunting for crap--time spent now is time saved later. I have the top of the playfield populated with all the posts and rubber. Waiting for new plastics to arrive and some other parts for that. Hoping that they get here when I am done with the underside.

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#40 3 months ago

Ok. Have the old cleared off and the new is populated. All I have to do is go through and put the items attached to the harness where they go on the playfield. I think about 4 hours left or so. I have everything tagged so should go fairly quickly. I already rebuilt the flippers and everything is cleaned.

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#41 3 months ago

Ok have it all done. I need to put on the mini playfields and I have a complete set of Cliffys to put on. I do have one issue. In the picture below are three power connectors that I do not have a spot for. All of the lighting boards have power to them. The mini PFs do not use these connectors. Two of them are tied so tight to the loom that I cant image they connected to anything. The other is fairly long. Two have labels that you can see in the pic and one does not. They are all power so good news is that they all do the same thing. I just don't recall having extras but these three were not labeled by me as going to one of the boards so I am perplexed.

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#42 3 months ago
Quoted from Killerbooger:

so I am perplexed.

Could be extras. One is labeled W1 ( Yellow Brick road fish board ) and the other one W6 ( scarecrow board looks like Florida )

LTG : )

#43 3 months ago

Yup I saw that as well and also what hogbog said and he was one of the designers of the system, or the designer. However, looking at the manual as I went through this thing there were a lot of differences. Both w 1 and w 6 were not connected to anything when I took it apart. They are wound very tight on the loom and don’t reach anything. Hogbog said there were no extras and I would consider him a subject matter expert but these just do t have anywhere to go. The power to mini playfields don’t use this connector. Will see how powering up goes when the new plastics get here and after I mount the mini pfs

#44 89 days ago

Almost there!

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#45 89 days ago

holy crap dude. That's alot of work
looks good.

#46 89 days ago

Is this the fastest documented pf swap? Usually seems like it takes people months to put their games back together, great job!

#47 89 days ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Is this the fastest documented pf swap? Usually seems like it takes people months to put their games back together, great job!

I wonder what the fastest is. 4.5 days is mine. But it’s not a race, and usually going fast means you missed something!

#48 87 days ago

Just finished the playfield. I have to replace the LED on the wizard so there is that so I guess 99.9 percent. Looks great. Here is what I did:

1 playfield swap
2 replaces munchkin land playfield
3 replaces all plastics
4 replaces all rubber with Titans
5 modded trees so eyes glow (pain in the butt)
6 added a few other LEDs in dark areas
7 cleaned and polished every single piece.
8 repaired cabinet

Still to do:
1 reconnect the computer and put backbox on
2 install new topper
3 install new legs, new lock bar, and side rails
4 install pinblades
5 finish up cabinet cleaning and install door, shooter etc.
6 Install back of playfiled (flying monkey)
7 install playfield hook up all the wires to the cabinet and pray.

Probably 10 hours of work left

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#49 83 days ago

Well have it all back together. Boots up fine. Have a lot of things not working and some stuck closed switches. The switches I can figure out but not sure about the rest. Only the top part of the playfield only is lit up. Lot to do still. Not sure if I missed a connection somewhere or what.

#50 81 days ago

Done! Special shout out to Hogbog...huge help! Body work done, everything up and running and looks amazing. No errors!

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