https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-some-lights-out-fuse

5EB2C1C8-8570-4526-A45B-F2A6464DF91E (resized).jpeg

Is the backbox light on, monitor says no signal ? If so jump start the motherboard. Briefly short pins 6 and 8 on motherboard on JFP1.

If not that, check that the USB cables are all plugged into the I/O board tight.

LTG : )
photo 2 (resized).JPG

If the monitor has signal and is showing video it means the PC is booted and working fine. So it should be something related to the IO board of possibly fuses (although I don't think one fuse aside from the line fuse could cause everything on the PF to not function).

Power comes in to the game, through the line fuse and to the pc power supply, lighting power supply and transformer. If I remember correctly.

So if the line fuse is out nothing gets power.

Do the fuses have lights on?

It means you need to pull out the high power interlock switch on your coin door. Or something else is going on. You wouldn't blow that many fuses.

LTG : )

USB cable to I/O board, front right corner on tight ?

Get a meter and check power to one of the LED boards, see if power supply flew the coop.

LTG : )

I'm interested to find out at this point.

Can you start a game? Does the monkey or the witch move when the game turns on?

I'm thinking it must be something to do with the IO board. You might test some of the power connections under the playfield to see if any power is coming out of the IO board. I believe everything routes through it and I would think you should at least see 5v or 12v going to the playfield from the separate power supply. If not I would try another USB cable to the IO board because that controls everything.

On my machine this is the USB plug. I'm guessing you have a YBR? Is that in the backbox?

I think that is the same on yours. I only have one black wire there, you have two. But I think one of them is the USB. If that is plugged in all the way (on both ends, reseat it) then you can use another USB cable to replace it. I believe it's mini USB on one end and USB A on the other.
pasted_image (resized).png

On second look I think that's in the bottom of the cabinet. My layout is the same with the HD there, on my POTC the harddrive is outside the PC case so I would think it's the same on YBR. So yeah, not sure why you have two wires there or what J800 does but that is next to JUSB (which I have my USB in) and both are listed as USB ports on the schematic.

Ah I see, J800 is listed as RGB to CPU and JUSB is listed as Switch Monitor/Device control. Must have changed at some point, I don't even have a connector at J800.

Starting on page 314 of the manual it covers the IO board with schematic, parts list and pinouts. Might help you see what connectors should be there.

Been there myself. LTG is the man so you're in good hands. I'm just bumbling my way through documentation and my game.

I don't think power is your issue since the fuse lights are coming on the IO board is getting power which should power the rest of the items. LTG probably has better next steps but might be time to call JJP and see if one of their techs have any details or maybe just send out a new IO board (which sounds like it could be the culprit). I am not the best at reading schematics but with WOZ it seems like the IO board controls all power to the playfield so that would seem likely. I suppose it could be the motherboard/USB ports but you did a restore and that worked so the USB ports are working and it isn't likely the software since you just reloaded it and the game boots fine. If the playfield was getting power something would do something, I would think... spotlights at minimum should probably come on but it seems like the IO board isn't triggering that stuff.

You can do some basic testing on the IO board to see if anything is blatantly wrong. Testing the transistors (or mosfets or whatever are on there) and comparing them to each other would be something I think would at least start that debugging. Maybe this will help because I have no idea except that I think you can put the meter in ohms and test each leg to the other then compare those readings to another transistor to see if they are consistent and close to each other. I think they are labeled with "Q" as the starting number, they are black little boxes with three metal legs coming off. Of course do this with the power off.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-test-transistors#post-708525

They may need to be tested differently because they aren't normal transistors but I have no clue. Lloyd can probably tell you. So don't base it off that!

Call jjp don't wait for a response, it's more reliable. They'll probably be able to really diagnose along with Lloyd.

If it's just replacing the board you can do it. I'd say most pinball techs would be able to figure out most of jjp games without knowing them. In essence they have the same parts as older games, just a bit newer tech.

Jjp doesn't have techs that go to your house that I know but I bet if you call your closest jjp distributor they will know.

Once you know the part you need you can email [email protected] with the part number and they will ship pretty quick if the part is in stock.