(Topic ID: 237716)

WOZ pecking order


By fathom

44 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 43 days ago by BrianBannon
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 44 days ago

    Ok I can tell that the standard is the starting point. But where do the other versions fall in as to price? Or do they follow a Stern method of pro, premium, le?

    #2 44 days ago

    Standard
    ECLE
    RR

    Assuming yellow brick road will be above RR or match RR.

    #3 44 days ago

    What's the difference between the green one and red one besides the obvious?

    #4 44 days ago

    Standard
    Emerald City Limited Edition
    75th Anniversary Edition

    Those are the 3 official (at this time) releases to the public games.

    All 3 games are identical for gameplay, but different in cosmetics.

    Emerald City was the first release from JJP. It featured a direct print cabinet, wooden apron, emerald green armor. Unless they upgraded the light boards, these will most likely be the ver. 1 boards. Invisiglass, shaker motor included.

    Standard Edition - stainless steel armor. standard glass, no shaker (but can be added). metal apron.

    75th Anniversary - ruby red armor, color topper, red tinted backglass, extra toys on the playfield, invisiglass, shaker motor, printed manual

    At this time only a very few distributors have even the 75th on hand. Best thing to know is that any game with a production date of 12/15/16 or newer will have the 2.0 light boards in them.

    Let me know if you have any other questions

    11
    #5 44 days ago

    I would put the ECLE at the top due to the direct printed cabinet and clear coated wood apron which isn't on any of the newer models. RR's sometimes go for more though as they are newer and some people want games with 2.0 light boards. Most ECLE games have 7.5v light boards and have never had an issue.

    Personally I think the WOZ ECLE is the most beautiful pin ever made in part due to the metallic green armour and habit rails, wood clear coated apron, and direct print cabinet.

    #6 44 days ago
    Quoted from gliebig:

    What's the difference between the green one and red one besides the obvious?

    green - direct print cabinet, wooden apron, topper, green armor, green tinted backglass

    red - decals on the cabinet, metal apron, red armor, red tinted backglass, could have 2.0 boards from the factory.

    #7 43 days ago
    Quoted from KingPinGames:

    green - direct print cabinet, wooden apron, topper, green armor, green tinted backglass
    red - decals on the cabinet, metal apron, red armor, red tinted backglass, could have 2.0 boards from the factory.

    There are other "Green edition" games out there that just have all the trim and habitrails powder-coated green, they don't have the wood apron or direct-print cabinets and I don't believe they are considered "official" JJP versions of the game.

    If looking at the secondary market keep in mind that not all 75th RRs shipped with invisiglass and printed manual, these were added at some point when the price was raised $500. The owners may have added the Invisiglass but it wasn't standard before that.

    #8 43 days ago

    I have ECLE with the modified 5.0 boards with the added buffer board and have not had any issues in over 3 years.

    #9 43 days ago
    Quoted from PanzerFreak:

    I would put the ECLE at the top due to the direct printed cabinet and clear coated wood apron which isn't on any of the newer models. RR's sometimes go for more though as they are newer and some people want games with 2.0 light boards. Most ECLE games have 7.5v light boards and have never had an issue.
    Personally I think the WOZ ECLE is the most beautiful pin ever made in part due to the metallic green armour and habit rails, wood clear coated apron, and direct print cabinet.

    This!

    #10 43 days ago

    If you have 5.0/7.5 boards and you haven't had an issue, that really should come with a "yet" at the end. If you've had the game for 3 or 5 years it doesn't really matter. It doesn't seem to be a time factor but a games played factor. I don't think we've seen any WOZ games with a few thousand plays on them with 5.0/7.5 boards that didn't have a board go out? I've searched for such an example, but haven't found one, so if anyone has one please share!

    In my searching there were a fair number of used HUO buyers that have been burned on the old boards, buying from users who had their pin for years and never had problems, only to play a bunch of games and then have boards go out. It's just too much of a risk for me, unless the prices become more reasonable for that risk. 2.0 boards are the only ones that are truly 100% to last as long as any normal LED board should. I'm in the market for a WOZ myself right now, but the prices on HUO are too high given that 2.0 boards are $800 and about 12 hours of work to install them.

    #11 43 days ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    If you have 5.0/7.5 boards and you haven't had an issue, that really should come with a "yet" at the end. If you've had the game for 3 or 5 years it doesn't really matter. It doesn't seem to be a time factor but a games played factor. I don't think we've seen any WOZ games with a few thousand plays on them with 5.0/7.5 boards that didn't have a board go out? I've searched for such an example, but haven't found one, so if anyone has one please share!
    In my searching there were a fair number of used HUO buyers that have been burned on the old boards, buying from users who had their pin for years and never had problems, only to play a bunch of games and then have boards go out. It's just too much of a risk for me, unless the prices become more reasonable for that risk. 2.0 boards are the only ones that are truly 100% to last as long as any normal LED board should. I'm in the market for a WOZ myself right now, but the prices on HUO are too high given that 2.0 boards are $800 and about 12 hours of work to install them.

    My personal Emarld City Woz with original 7.5 boards had thousands of plays on it from years of going to shows and in tournaments. I never ONCE changed out a board. I have sold this machine and the new owner did decide to go with the 2.0 kits (since i had it already), but that being said, I never had an issue with the original board set.

    #12 43 days ago
    Quoted from KingPinGames:

    My personal Emarld City Woz with original 7.5 boards had thousands of plays on it from years of going to shows and in tournaments. I never ONCE changed out a board. I have sold this machine and the new owner did decide to go with the 2.0 kits (since i had it already), but that being said, I never had an issue with the original board set.

    Well I trust you completely, so this definitely gives me food for thought then. This is really great to know, I wonder if there are more then too?

    #13 43 days ago

    Are there issues with the clear coats on some of the earlier playfields?

    #14 43 days ago

    I have a emerald somewhere around the early 800’s 7.5, no issues with it.

    #15 43 days ago

    I paid 300 for the complete set of the upgraded 5.0 boards , the tech at JJp said that voltage was not the issue. Something to do with static electricity that the added buffer would eliminate. It does not take 12 hours to change out all the boards, it took around 3 hours only becouse changing out the boards under the mini playfield was a pain.

    #16 43 days ago

    It’s ironic in JJP’s case, but the standards are really the most limited and least produced.
    Take that for what it’s worth...

    #17 43 days ago

    The standards with the direct print cabinets are the rarest of all of them IMHO.

    The ECLE is the best looking one.

    The RR is probably the most reliable from the factory.

    #18 43 days ago

    The rarest version for U.S. buyers is the Emerald City Edition with custom topper and exclusively found at Automated Services. This version includes Invisiglass and shaker.

    Only 100 were made.

    #19 43 days ago
    Quoted from KingPinGames:

    75th Anniversary - ruby red armor, color topper, red tinted backglass, extra toys on the playfield, invisiglass, shaker motor, printed manual
    ...

    What are the extra toys?

    #20 43 days ago
    Quoted from Mike_J:

    The rarest version for U.S. buyers is the Emerald City Edition with custom topper and exclusively found at Automated Services. This version includes Invisiglass and shaker.
    Only 100 were made.

    This model looks beautiful and it has the 2.0 system installed.

    C6152BEF-778F-402B-AAA8-A82760B321CD (resized).jpeg
    #21 43 days ago
    Quoted from Wildbill327:

    This model looks beautiful and it has the 2.0 system installed.[quoted image]

    Agreed. I like it better without the wood apron.

    #22 43 days ago
    Quoted from gliebig:

    What are the extra toys?

    All static toys (dont interact with anything)

    Toto in the basket
    Tornado
    Witch castle walls
    Lollipop decals in the "RAINBOW" target

    #24 43 days ago

    Really it’s personal preference...the ECLE will make you drool though, it really stands out and draws you into it. I’m curious to see how the YBR will look.

    #25 43 days ago

    Thanks for the input. I will know what to look for when the time comes.

    #26 43 days ago

    Nobody has any idea what the Yellow Brick Road version is going to be? Same everything just different cab decals? What the over under on it be announced or even displayed at TPF?

    #27 43 days ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    If you have 5.0/7.5 boards and you haven't had an issue, that really should come with a "yet" at the end. If you've had the game for 3 or 5 years it doesn't really matter. It doesn't seem to be a time factor but a games played factor. I don't think we've seen any WOZ games with a few thousand plays on them with 5.0/7.5 boards that didn't have a board go out? I've searched for such an example, but haven't found one, so if anyone has one please share!
    In my searching there were a fair number of used HUO buyers that have been burned on the old boards, buying from users who had their pin for years and never had problems, only to play a bunch of games and then have boards go out. It's just too much of a risk for me, unless the prices become more reasonable for that risk. 2.0 boards are the only ones that are truly 100% to last as long as any normal LED board should. I'm in the market for a WOZ myself right now, but the prices on HUO are too high given that 2.0 boards are $800 and about 12 hours of work to install them.

    The 2.0 boards are not going to be failsafe. The (ALL) LEDs go out eventually including the 2.0 LEDs and anything Stern or other manufacturers use. The main thing the 2.0 system offers over the 7.5 buffered boards is a non-series configuration so if one goes out it does not take all the LEDs down the stream out until the bad one is bypassed.

    I also would guess the brand of the LEDs is likely still the same and only the version is changed because they stop making the previous version every so often. I think it was Kingbright.

    #28 43 days ago
    Quoted from DCFAN:

    The 2.0 boards are not going to be failsafe. The (ALL) LEDs go out eventually including the 2.0 LEDs and anything Stern or other manufacturers use. The main thing the 2.0 system offers over the 7.5 buffered boards is a non-series configuration so if one goes out it does not take all the LEDs down the stream out until the bad one is bypassed.
    I also would guess the brand of the LEDs is likely still the same and only the version is changed because they stop making the previous version every so often. I think it was kingbrite.

    Good info!

    #29 43 days ago
    Quoted from Daveeb2000:

    Nobody has any idea what the Yellow Brick Road version is going to be? Same everything just different cab decals? What the over under on it be announced or even displayed at TPF?

    Nobody knows, only rumors. Based upon the number of issues people seem to have with the monkey mech, the rumor is that it will be either redesigned better or just removed altogether. I am thinking it will be announced at TPF.

    #30 43 days ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    Nobody knows, only rumors. Based upon the number of issues people seem to have with the monkey mech, the rumor is that it will be either redesigned better or just removed altogether. I am thinking it will be announced at TPF.

    For the monkey, my only advice is to put some lubricant every once in a while, my monkey started to have issues, he was louder than usually and wasn't picking up balls all the time. I cleaned it and put some lubricant, he works like a charm now.

    #31 43 days ago

    Always lube your monkey.

    #32 43 days ago
    Quoted from gliebig:

    Always lube your monkey.

    Speaking of lube, I also lubed the witch mech, and thought it would be a good idea to lube the castle doors but I have no idea what to lube there.

    #33 43 days ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    If you have 5.0/7.5 boards and you haven't had an issue, that really should come with a "yet" at the end. If you've had the game for 3 or 5 years it doesn't really matter. It doesn't seem to be a time factor but a games played factor. I don't think we've seen any WOZ games with a few thousand plays on them with 5.0/7.5 boards that didn't have a board go out? I've searched for such an example, but haven't found one, so if anyone has one please share!
    In my searching there were a fair number of used HUO buyers that have been burned on the old boards, buying from users who had their pin for years and never had problems, only to play a bunch of games and then have boards go out. It's just too much of a risk for me, unless the prices become more reasonable for that risk. 2.0 boards are the only ones that are truly 100% to last as long as any normal LED board should. I'm in the market for a WOZ myself right now, but the prices on HUO are too high given that 2.0 boards are $800 and about 12 hours of work to install them.

    Personally, I wouldn't touch any model WOZ without the new lighting system as I had to change out my ECLE's whole 7.5 lamp board set not once, but most of the boards twice and some of the boards failed a third time. I know a person that had their game in the same shipment as mine and has not encountered one lamp problem. Build date was Fall 2013. Two of the four ECLE's in that same shipment had lamp board issues, the other two nothing. I know some guys with RR WOZ games that currently have lamp problems, so in my mind the best thing is buying a WOZ with the 2.0 lamp kit installed, anything else is a crap shoot.

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