(Topic ID: 68941)

WOZ LEDs Locked Up?


By flukevfx

6 years ago



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  • 98 posts
  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by JR_Pinball
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 98 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 6 years ago

I was in the middle of a game today and all of a sudden the LEDs on the right half of the playfield seemed to lock up and became unresponsive. I restarted the machine and even reinstalled the 1.22 update but that didn't help. I've attached an image that shows the affected LEDs. They remain in this "on" position no matter what I do. Any ideas?image.jpg

#2 6 years ago

I would either post that on the JJP message board if you're on there, or submit a ticket with this picture. It looks like an RGB board blew out for you. Can't imagine what else would cause that, but I'm an idiot, so what do I know?

#3 6 years ago

Yeah, I'm on the support forum now and will log a ticket.

#4 6 years ago

Yep looks like a board has gone bad. Mine did this just before the board totally failed and there were no lights on the lower right of my playfield.

#5 6 years ago

Damn. Did you log a ticket and get a new board sent out?

#6 6 years ago

Doh! Mine was being played today, and almost the exact same thing, but mine included the TOTO rollovers. Rebooting it cures it for about a minute, and then same thing.

#7 6 years ago

I logged a ticket on the support site. Will update once I hear back.

#8 6 years ago

Its hard to tell from a picture since the LED's cycle, but in the manual checkout page C-50 which has a connection diagram for the LED boards. Since its one big serial chain you should see what the last board that is working and its probably the next GI board. From the picture could be board 20 or 21. You can skip a dead GI board which will bring the rest up but they won't have the correct colors. Just a way to verify it is that particular GI board.
Once you find out ping lloyd JJP will send you a new one super fast.

#9 6 years ago

Repaired this for a customer last month. It's likely the small RBG lamps boards, once one goes out it cuts off the signal to all the rest of the boards in the daisy chain. The game has something like 60+ lamp boards including 30-40 of the single lamp boards. Find out which is the last board in the chain that is working and it's likely the board after that one (or the last one working). There is a cable map in the manual.

#10 6 years ago

This seems to be fairly common problem, it would be interesting to see if these were the older boards that were prone to this, or the newer better boards.

Hopefully they have kicked this problem to the curb...

#11 6 years ago

The new board resolved the issue I was having with mine.

#12 6 years ago

Yep. Now it looks like they are dead. I'm in LED test mode and these are the only lights that work now.image.jpg

#13 6 years ago

Waiting for the day this happens to me.

#14 6 years ago

Why would they design it like that?

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from flukevfx:

Yep. Now it looks like they are dead. I'm in LED test mode and these are the only lights that work now.

Yours looks like either board 16,17 or 18. You will have to look under the playfield and see. Like I said you can skip it if you don't have a replacement handy until one comes in. The colors may not match but its more playable than having no leds on half the PF

#16 6 years ago

I am hoping its just the older boards, I have replaced 7 so far on mine on location.

#17 6 years ago

Yeah I'm on GI board number 6. four of them where board #16..put one of the new designs in so far so good.

#18 6 years ago

Ours went bad and Lloyd has been a great help in ordering the new boards for us.

#19 6 years ago

Thanks everyone. In order to figure out what board is bad, is it just trial and error? By skipping the board, do you mean unplug board 16 for example and go directly from 15 to 17?

#20 6 years ago

I believe JJP will overnight you a board.

#21 6 years ago

I recently had this happen and JJP was great about sending out a board, once replaced everything has been running great!

#22 6 years ago
Quoted from flukevfx:

Thanks everyone. In order to figure out what board is bad, is it just trial and error? By skipping the board, do you mean unplug board 16 for example and go directly from 15 to 17?

You can figure it out by looking at page C-50 in the manual. This has a diagram of the serial LED board chain which has arrows directing you from board to board. If one of the boards dies in that chain...everything behind that board will be out. So I would look at that diagram and follow the working LEDs to the first board (which is likely a small GI board) that is not working. Once you find it that's probably your issue. You can skip that board by taking it out of the serial chain... so the output from the previous board would plug into the input (output is green input is red cable end) of the board after the failed one. Basically skip it...the rest of the playfield should come on. As I said the colors won't match but that will verify that board is dead and you can still play.

#23 6 years ago
Quoted from flukevfx:

Thanks everyone. In order to figure out what board is bad, is it just trial and error? By skipping the board, do you mean unplug board 16 for example and go directly from 15 to 17?

You can also work your way through the diagnostic utility to find out the last light that work and look to see what board it is in the manual (C-50)

#24 6 years ago

This is a 5 volt board. Likely either 15 or 18. Shoot me your phone number in a pm and I'll call you and get it squared away.

#25 6 years ago

Pm sent.

#26 6 years ago

Spoke with Alex and it looks like board 15 is the culprit! Cheers for helping out on a Sunday.

#27 6 years ago

It's very easy to figure out which is bad without the manual. Just go to diagnostics and led test and set all LEDs to on and white. Now lift the playfield. Find a non working board and trace the wiring. I believe green is in and red is out. But pick one. Trace green in the non working to its prev board. Repeat until you land on a working board. It takes a few seconds to arrive at the bad board.

#28 6 years ago

Did exactly that and traced it back to 15. Everything was out after that one and W2 leading into it was good.

#29 6 years ago

15 is a big problem child. Someone made a poll a few months back and I think 15 took the cake. Can't find it though.

#30 6 years ago

Good news is that you're in good hands. LTG and the JJP crew got your covered.

#31 6 years ago

That's what Alex said. Glad it's a known and easy fix. Now I just have to *patiently* wait for a new board

#32 6 years ago

Had my game 3 months now and no board issues for me? 15 seems to be an issue for a lot of peiple

#33 6 years ago

Had mine for just over three months too.

#34 6 years ago
Quoted from flukevfx:

Spoke with Alex and it looks like board 15 is the culprit! Cheers for helping out on a Sunday.

Alex is awesome. Always there to solve a problem.

#35 6 years ago

I forwarded the request for a replacement board. One should arrive Tuesday

#36 6 years ago

As usual, great service Alex!

#37 6 years ago

Awesome!!

#38 6 years ago

Yeah that's identical to what ours did #15 was the start we had a couple go bad but Lloyd helped us get it figured out. The original boards weren't handling Any surges well at all from what I understand.

Thanks again Lloyd for helping us the same day.

#39 6 years ago
Quoted from flukevfx:

Yep. Now it looks like they are dead. I'm in LED test mode and these are the only lights that work now.

Welcome to the club. I have replaced 5 of the single LED boards, the "fish" board, and the tinman/haunted forest board.

#40 6 years ago

#15 went out in my game as well. I put board #27 in its place until the replacement arrived. That at least kept most of the lights on and in sync. New board fixed everything and no trouble since.

#41 6 years ago

Yea. Service is fine. But for me boards go out every single week. The game is getting a ton of visibility for always being broken. I've taken it to shows and it breaks there. I emailed JJP about a more permanent fix for my machine but no one responds.

#42 6 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Yea. Service is fine. But for me boards go out every single week. The game is getting a ton of visibility for always being broken. I've taken it to shows and it breaks there. I emailed JJP about a more permanent fix for my machine but no one responds.

I would hope JJP would replace your GI boards with the new design. Assuming the small GI boards are the ones always dieing I would think JJP would take care of you. Shoot call Jack directly I bet you get what you need. Good luck I hope you get it dialed in.

#43 6 years ago
Quoted from Mantra:

I would hope JJP would replace your GI boards with the new design. Assuming the small GI boards are the ones always dieing I would think JJP would take care of you. Shoot call Jack directly I bet you get what you need. Good luck I hope you get it dialed in.

Agreed shoot Jack or Lloyd An email, it seems that the new light boards are the ticket mine has had no issues.

#44 6 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Yea. Service is fine. But for me boards go out every single week. The game is getting a ton of visibility for always being broken. I've taken it to shows and it breaks there. I emailed JJP about a more permanent fix for my machine but no one responds.

You haven't emailed me? The permanent fix is to replace the 3 constant problem boards with the 7 volt boards and the problem is rectified. We have not had a single 7 volt board fail.

#45 6 years ago

I hope this works I love my game and don't want any issues especially after it's out of warranty. I am glad I didn't keep this one nib.

#46 6 years ago

I had #19 go out and got it quickly replaced. Thanks Lloyd.Turnaround time might be 3-4 days and I had to ship the old burnt out one back to JJP at my expense which wasn't a big deal. My only worry is that another goes out at an inopportune time like when a bunch of my nieces and nephews come into town for my wedding at the end of the month. I wanted to buy a few spare GI boards but they are not for sale at this time. Its kinda like if you bought a new Stern a few years ago and if a #47 bulb went out half the lighting went out on your pin and you had to wait for a replacement bulb and when you got it then ship the old burnt out bulb at your expense back to Stern. I would just prefer to buy some spares to have on hand is all. No need to warranty bulbs, plastics, rubbers, etc. as long as they aren't too expensive and are readily available for sale. I suppose this is just part of being a new company.

#47 6 years ago
Quoted from Benepinballs:

I am hoping its just the older boards, I have replaced 7 so far on mine on location.

I had 10+ go out on mine in a wide array of locations (not just the supposed "problem locations," and not just single-LED PCBs either) before they finally sent me an entire replacement set of the redesigned 7.5v boards (and 7.5v power supply), which seems to have fixed the problem for now. The worst was one of the boards under the castle playfield, which required that the whole thing be disassembled every time I had to replace it.

They should be sending complete sets of boards to ALL owners who have the original flawed style, if you ask me. If it was worth hiring a new engineer to redesign them completely, that says something was seriously wrong with the original boards. The old machines need to be fully retrofitted, not just patched up one board at a time.

#48 6 years ago

The castle playfield is not a big deal to remove. I did it without instructions. It is intuitive and after a few times of doing takes just a few minutes. I kinda enjoyed messing with it. Had to clip a few zipties in order to unplug a few connectors but no biggie. I do think that a few spares should be made available to have on hand especially if you are willing to buy them as I would like to.

#49 6 years ago
Quoted from bobbyconover:

I had 10+ go out on mine in a wide array of locations (not just the supposed "problem locations," and not just single-LED PCBs either) before they finally sent me an entire replacement set of the redesigned 7.5v boards (and 7.5v power supply), which seems to have fixed the problem for now. The worst was one of the boards under the castle playfield, which required that the whole thing be disassembled every time I had to replace it.
They should be sending complete sets of boards to ALL owners who have the original flawed style, if you ask me. If it was worth hiring a new engineer to redesign them completely, that says something was seriously wrong with the original boards. The old machines need to be fully retrofitted, not just patched up one board at a time.

Yes, this is the outcome that would make me happy. Unfortunately when I asked Lloyd about it, I was told it was over his pay grade so I had to contact Jack - and no response there.

Quoted from Pinchroma:

You haven't emailed me? The permanent fix is to replace the 3 constant problem boards with the 7 volt boards and the problem is rectified. We have not had a single 7 volt board fail.

Are you able to help me get an entire set replaced and new power supply?

#50 6 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Yes, this is the outcome that would make me happy. Unfortunately when I asked Lloyd about it, I was told it was over his pay grade so I had to contact Jack - and no response there.

Are you able to help me get an entire set replaced and new power supply?

Is the power supply bad? Have you received any 7 volt boards? The lights going bad aren't a factor of the power supply. A few 7v boards in the normal trouble spots will rectify the problems permanently. That's the fix for all machines.

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