(Topic ID: 253176)

WOZ LED Lighting Problem Has Me Stumped


By ScottInSanDiego

10 days ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by ScottInSanDiego
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#1 10 days ago

WOZ with the 7.5v boards. All lighting after board W7 is dead. W5 and everything beyond is dead. Jumped between W7 to 28 (board after W5) no lights, then jumped between 14 (board before W7) to 28 (bypassing both W7 and W5), no lights again. Used a different cable and same result. Even tried jumping from W6 (working obviously) to W2, still no lights.

Common sense tells me I should have pinpointed the problem by now but obviously that isn't the case.

#2 10 days ago

Power at those boards ?

If so I'd grab the long data harness from the fish board over to the toto light, and use that longer harness to jump from a working board to the next, and to the next, on and on until you identify bad board(s)

LTG : )

#3 10 days ago

Hmmm. No power at these boards. Checked fuses and LED under F2 is out, but fuse tests ok out of the game. Swapped fuses and LED under F2 is still out.

#4 10 days ago
IMG_4991 (resized).JPG
#5 10 days ago

I guess you'll need to find out what's on the input side of that fuse. Manual says D29 is supposed to have a SMCJ10A diode on it, but unless it's on the back side, nothing's there (same for D28, which goes to F1, and D30, which goes to F3).

#6 10 days ago

If I remember correctly, you need to close the coin door(high voltage) for that led to light.

#7 10 days ago

unplug the power connector to the fish shaped led board, if the leds after work its a capacitor on that board

#8 10 days ago
Quoted from finman2000:

If I remember correctly, you need to close the coin door(high voltage) for that led to light.

Its low voltage for the LEDs so it should not be tied to the the interlock switch at all.

#9 9 days ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

unplug the power connector to the fish shaped led board, if the leds after work its a capacitor on that board

That's it. Is it the big capacitor on the "fish" LED board? Are these boards reparable? The big capacitor doesn't look like it would be hard to change out.

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