(Topic ID: 182651)

WOZ LED Boards


By pin2d

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by shimoda
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

Forgive me as I know this topic has been covered at length, but is it accurate to say that for the WOZ pins that had LED board problems, that ALL LED boards would eventually need to be replaced? Or is that not accurate? I've tried to read through old posts but haven't found a clear answer on that. Thanks so much.

#2 2 years ago

No, not all LED boards need replacing.

LTG : )

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from pin2d:

Forgive me as I know this topic has been covered at length, but is it accurate to say that for the WOZ pins that had LED board problems, that ALL LED boards would eventually need to be replaced? Or is that not accurate? I've tried to read through old posts but haven't found a clear answer on that. Thanks so much.

Eventually is a very long time so if you leave it on long enough I guess it would at some stage. I have 7.5v and a 3 year old game and have not had a board failure since it was new and one arrived damaged.

#4 2 years ago

Any light of any type used in any application is going to eventually fail, not just in pinball.

For WOZ it probably matters which type of boards are in the particular game to have an educated guess generally how long they will last.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Any light of any type used in any application is going to eventually fail, not just in pinball.
For WOZ it probably matters which type of boards are in the particular game to have an educated guess generally how long they will last.

In a recent WOZ thread, a buyer that bought WOZ and TH games with the new light boards had light board issues with both games. To your point, they are parts that could potentially fail (regardless if they are new or old board sets).

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

In a recent WOZ thread, a buyer that bought WOZ and TH games with the new light boards had light board issues with both games. To your point, they are parts that could potentially fail (regardless if they are new or old board sets).

Agreed. My point is that all lights can and will fail. The newer the version the less likely to have major problems with their functionalty.
In WOZ, original 5 volt boards had high failure rates. The 7.5 volt boards without buffer boards were an improvement. The 7.5 volt boards with buffer boards are a further improvement. Now they have version 2.0 which appear to be non-serial boards that likely will be an even further improvement.

None of this will stop certain individual lights from failing. Every manufacturer will have some light failures. It is the nature of electronics to eventually fail.

The original poster is not specific with the question so a broad answer is all that can be givien.

#7 2 years ago

I have had my game since new and I just now had a board go bad, My boards are the normal 7.5v, Spoke to JJP today and one already in the mail to me, price was good and service rocks!! Thanks Lloyd again for all the help!!

#9 2 years ago

Following up on this after doing some more reading...to rephrase my initial question asking if ALL boards would eventually need replacing - are there specific boards that will always need to be replaced on the pins with the LED issues? (Hope that question makes sense)

#10 2 years ago

From my reading on the subject it appears the single LED boards have a much higher failure rate than the other boards. But any of the lamp boards in the game are subject to failure. They are a known problem - especially the older 5v system like I have.

This is why I am really really hoping JJP developing a kit to upgrade older machines to the new WoZ 2.0 lamp system which is based on the system used in The Hobbit.

#11 2 years ago

I've had to replace over 25 of mine, 9 of those were ones that had already been replaced.

Things have seemed to slow or stop finally though.
apparently the electronics are extremely sensitive to static, much more so then normal. I talked to tech support they recommended using wizards mist and shine, I would recommend using a static bracelet when working on the playfield or cleaning. Especially if you have it on carpet.

my only other issue is the sound keeps popping. Been meaning to get to it, but since it doesn't kill game play meh...

#12 2 years ago

i have had my emerald city since november of 2013. it has gone to multiple shows (midwest gaming, texas pinball festival, mad rollin), multiple in home league nights, let a friend borrow it for 6 months. lots and lots of plays on it.

i have done NOTHING to this machine, NOTHING and it is still working just great.

some of the earlier run machines did have some issues. that should be cleared up by now. if you are looking to purchase a new machine (build date 01.01.2017 or later) then they will all have the 2.0 boards in them. redesigned in the same fashion as The Hobbit and Dialed In!

Contact your local distributor for more information, or contact me if they aren't able to answer your questions.

Christopher

#13 2 years ago

What do the 7.5v buffer boards look like? I was looking at a game that had 7.5v boards from 2013. Guy thought he had upgraded boards, but they said v1.1/rev 39, which I believe are original unbuffered. He hadn't had any issues, but I was very leery of buying the game and passed. Thinking the RR from 2015 might be a better way to go.

#14 2 years ago

There are two different methods that JJP has used to add buffers to the 7.5V design.

There are tiny boards that have only the buffer IC and a couple of connectors on them to piggyback on the unbuffered boards. They will also have a small wire, usually blue, running from the buffer board, across the main light board.

There are also 7.5V boards that have the buffer already on them. These are harder to see just by glancing at them, but you could tell by the board rev. In the manual, there are schematics that you could use to determine which revs include the buffer. You will not see the same rev throughout the game since the small, single LED boards have had more revisions that the bigger ones.

I have unbuffered 7.5V boards in my game, and I have had two cases where the lamps locked up, requiring a reboot. I reseated the cable where I suspected the problem to be happening, and I have not seen the issue in over a year now.

One other issue that I have seen is an LED where the red segment died. This was on a game with buffered 7.5V boards. Even on the 2.0 boards (or any game with LEDs), this can happen.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I think you're being a bit overly cautious.

Edit: Here's a picture I found that shows the add-on buffer daughterboard. You can find them on the multi-LED boards sometimes, as well.

35cf9164046e5269afa808050634ed9131952c85 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#15 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I have unbuffered 7.5V boards in my game, and I have had two cases where the lamps locked up, requiring a reboot. I reseated the cable where I suspected the problem to be happening, and I have not seen the issue in over a year now.

Looks like I spoke too soon. On Saturday, half of my W6 board locked up twice, during consecutive games. I played again on Sunday, and it didn't repeat.

So, I have a very basic question, though it might be tough to know a definitive answer. Can a failing cable cause a mid-board lockup? Two lamps on W6 were still working, while the rest were locked.

Per JJP support, my next step is to move the W6 data cable to GI29 in order to bypass W6 while still using the suspect cable. Given the rarity of my issues, I suspect it will work fine, I'll move it back to W6, which will also work fine, then the next time I'm having a killer game, it will lock up again, and I still won't know anything about the cause.

I'm out of warranty, and they haven't given me a price for the board yet.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Looks like I spoke too soon. On Saturday, half of my W6 board locked up twice, during consecutive games. I played again on Sunday, and it didn't repeat.
So, I have a very basic question, though it might be tough to know a definitive answer. Can a failing cable cause a mid-board lockup? Two lamps on W6 were still working, while the rest were locked.
Per JJP support, my next step is to move the W6 data cable to GI29 in order to bypass W6 while still using the suspect cable. Given the rarity of my issues, I suspect it will work fine, I'll move it back to W6, which will also work fine, then the next time I'm having a killer game, it will lock up again, and I still won't know anything about the cause.
I'm out of warranty, and they haven't given me a price for the board yet.

JJP announced on their Google Group that they have opened an online parts store. The boards are mostly available there to purchase. The question I have is are they still giving a discount if you trade-in your old board for a new one? Also, are all the little satelite LED boards the same part? I only see one option in the parts store.

http://jerseyjack.production.na1.netsuitestaging.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/?range=61%2C79%2C79

#17 2 years ago

Thanks for the link. So, $159 worst case, if I have to buy a replacement outright. It could be worse. I'll post back this evening with whatever results I get from the cable testing.

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Looks like I spoke too soon. On Saturday, half of my W6 board locked up twice, during consecutive games. I played again on Sunday, and it didn't repeat.
So, I have a very basic question, though it might be tough to know a definitive answer. Can a failing cable cause a mid-board lockup? Two lamps on W6 were still working, while the rest were locked.

I'm just curious. Were the two inserts that were working the lock insert and the horse that is under it? I've been having an intermittent problem where all lights freeze in the middle of a game with the exception of those two that continue to work. After a minute or two, the problem corrects itself. I've been speaking to Frank at JJP. But, if you are having the same issue with the same two lights, that would be interesting.

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm just curious. Were the two inserts that were working the lock insert and the horse that is under it? I've been having an intermittent problem where all lights freeze in the middle of a game with the exception of those two that continue to work. After a minute or two, the problem corrects itself. I've been speaking to Frank at JJP. But, if you are having the same issue with the same two lights, that would be interesting.

Mine were the horse and the crystal. Lock was locked.

I played one game and it did it again this evening, and I made sure to look at the lane leds which turned out to be working.

I then jumped past W6, and played five games with no more lockups. Was it coincidence, was it because I jumped past a bad board, or was it because I reseated the cable? I'm going to play some more games in the coming days, then put W6 back in the chain to see what happens.

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Mine were the horse and the crystal. Lock was locked.
I played one game and it did it again this evening, and I made sure to look at the lane leds which turned out to be working.
I then jumped past W6, and played five games with no more lockups. Was it coincidence, was it because I jumped past a bad board, or was it because I reseated the cable? I'm going to play some more games in the coming days, then put W6 back in the chain to see what happens.

Mine was happening every few games. I bypassed W6 and played a dozen games without an issue. I reattached W6 and things froze on the 5th or 6th game. It isn't definitive, but I'm placing my money on W6. Intermittent problems are a pain in the butt to find.

#21 2 years ago

I have to make a correction from an earlier post. The 2.0 lights are on machines produced on or after 12/15/2016. I have a machine with that date and LTG verified for me. They say 2.0 right on them. See the pic of the fish board below with V2.0 on it.

IMG_0685 (resized).JPG

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Given the rarity of my issues, I suspect it will work fine, I'll move it back to W6, which will also work fine, then the next time I'm having a killer game, it will lock up again, and I still won't know anything about the cause.

Well, this is close to what happened. I played 10 games with W6 bypassed, no issues. Moved the cable back, and on the second game, the lamps lock up again. They locked up on ball 1, and I ended up with a 1.6M point game, shooting blind nearly the entire time.

I guess this proved that reseating the cable isn't the answer in my case. I'm going to bypass W6 and play a bunch more games to see if it will fail. If it does, replace the cable, if it doesn't, I guess it's time to replace the W6 board.

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

JJP announced on their Google Group that they have opened an online parts store. The boards are mostly available there to purchase. The question I have is are they still giving a discount if you trade-in your old board for a new one? Also, are all the little satelite LED boards the same part? I only see one option in the parts store.
http://jerseyjack.production.na1.netsuitestaging.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/?range=61%2C79%2C79

that's cool, my warranty is out. it's gonna be a lot easier to just order the boards this way.
still haven't had any more board issues "knock on wood"
anyone know where I can find an unpopulated munchkin playfield

2 weeks later
#24 1 year ago
Quoted from herg:

I guess this proved that reseating the cable isn't the answer in my case. I'm going to bypass W6 and play a bunch more games to see if it will fail. If it does, replace the cable, if it doesn't, I guess it's time to replace the W6 board.

Following up, in case this is useful to anyone. It never locked up with W6 bypassed, and continued to lock pretty regularly with W6 in use. I got a replacement board and installed it. No more issues so far. Fingers crossed.

#25 1 year ago

I finally had one of the smaller individual led boards go out. It's only a few months after warranty so now I have to pay but seriously, it seems ridiculous for something like this to fail within 18 months of build. Hope it isn't going to become a string of paying again for a machine when it should work longer than this.

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from shimoda:

I finally had one of the smaller individual led boards go out. It's only a few months after warranty so now I have to pay but seriously, it seems ridiculous for something like this to fail within 18 months of build. Hope it isn't going to become a string of paying again for a machine when it should work longer than this.

Call JJP. They may take care of you if you are only a few months out.

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from shimoda:

I finally had one of the smaller individual led boards go out. It's only a few months after warranty so now I have to pay but seriously, it seems ridiculous for something like this to fail within 18 months of build. Hope it isn't going to become a string of paying again for a machine when it should work longer than this.

Is it old style or new style board? I'm assuming the new style (not 2.0) board. I've had those fail pretty fast, too. Seems like pot luck. But once you get some GOOD ones of the newer style with the buffer board, they seem to last.

#28 1 year ago

Hocuslocus, you can buy a munchkin playfield from JJP for about $150

1 month later
#29 1 year ago

Indeed JJP did take care of the light.

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