Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013Did a service call on a WOZLE today to replace an I/O board.
Board went in fine but the prior problem persist.
During gameplay the flippers will die and odd switch issues begin to happen. Any suggestions on where to look would be appreciated. Thanks.
a couple videos.
I checked it and it was clear. I looked at all the flipper mechs outside of taking off the castle. I didn't take a video of another game but was able to flip a good bit and the same issue arose.
Maybe start a game and flip one side only, to narrow it down? Don't launch the ball just keep flipping one side to see what happens.
In the first video you see it locks up immediately when the right side is flipped once.
Then in the second video it appears to happen between flips and then the lock animation is played as though a ball is being locked.
Quoted from pinstyle:Sorry, my internet is brought to me by donkey, I'm lucky I can load a picture.
No worries.
I have communicated with Lloyd on the issue but figured I'd post here to see if anyone has dealt with this issue. I'm going to try to get over to have a crack at it again this upcoming week.
Taylor - Check The 2 wires to the right flipper coils and see if the coil plunger is shorting them out. Work the plungers by hand to see if it touches any wires. This is kind of what happen to me but caused a more severe total game shut down in my case
Quoted from wtatumjr:Taylor - Check The 2 wires to the right flipper coils and see if the coil plunger is shorting them out. Work the plungers by hand to see if it touches any wires. This is kind of what happen to me but caused a more severe total game shut down in my case
Also, check the two screws holding the right flipper bracket to the PF. My castle flipper mech had one fall out, and it simply caused a mechanical binding, so the flipper stopped working.
A loose flipper bracket could cause some movement in the coil / wires that you can't see or find while the PF is up, but could effect things when the PF is down and different forces going on. I noticed lights flicker on the right flipper coil firing, and likely could be enough voltage changes to cause a reset. Could also cause a switch mis-trigger which would explain the second video error of a ball lock and also register a ball drain switch.
I had some what of a similar problem. Then it would not come to ready when I would restart the machine. It would light the lights but the monkey and house never found the "home" position. Mine was a bad usb cord. Crazy I know I chased all of the normal hard things and it ended up being a cheap usb cord. Just a thought because I could wiggle mine and make it do that as well.
Went back to look at this WOZ today and game would go through the usual shut downs, resets when hitting the right flippers. I disconnected the lower flipper and tested and it continued, then disconnected the upper right and the problem persisted. Upon inspection of the flipper for the castle playfield it appeared that the right spade connector, looking at it from under the playfield, was loose. I reconnected that, reseated the connectors on the board nearby and unscrewed that board from under the playfield. Game played 100%.
Used some foam under that board to work as a shock absorber and screwed the board back in. I was able to play a complete game, the first on this table, and everything worked 100%.
Thanks to everyone for suggestions and especially pointing my directions to the connectors. Hope this owner gets some good quality time with their now working WOZ.
Wow thanks for the follow up on how you fixed it. Someone will reference this thread in the future...
Quoted from TaylorVA:Went back to look at this WOZ today and game would go through the usual shut downs, resets when hitting the right flippers. I disconnected the lower flipper and tested and it continued, then disconnected the upper right and the problem persisted. Upon inspection of the flipper for the castle playfield it appeared that the right spade connector, looking at it from under the playfield, was loose. I reconnected that, reseated the connectors on the board nearby and unscrewed that board from under the playfield. Game played 100%.
Used some foam under that board to work as a shock absorber and screwed the board back in. I was able to play a complete game, the first on this table, and everything worked 100%.
Thanks to everyone for suggestions and especially pointing my directions to the connectors. Hope this owner gets some good quality time with their now working WOZ.
Great job Taylor. Thanks for looking out for other owners that may have less skills than most.
Quoted from DCFAN:Great job Taylor. Thanks for looking out for other owners that may have less skills than most.
It was a paid service call so it wasn't exactly altruistic. I will say that after the I/O board didn't resolve the issue she offered to give me the game.....stunned silence I'm sure..... but I certainly couldn't roll with that on my conscience.
All in all she's thrilled to have her game finally working.
I spoke with Frank at JJP today and shared my experience so hopefully they'll keep an eye out on those connectors in the future.
Quoted from TaylorVA:It was a paid service call so it wasn't exactly altruistic. I will say that after the I/O board didn't resolve the issue she offered to give me the game.....stunned silence I'm sure..... but I certainly couldn't roll with that on my conscience.
All in all she's thrilled to have her game finally working.
Whoa. You definitely did the right and honorable thing.
Also, paid or not, it great that you provided the needed service, and with a successful conclusion.
Quoted from jchiu:I had considered getting a WOZ but seems like a lot of issues.
I don't blame the hesitation. It's a shame that it exist as I personally consider it, when working, the most amazing table I've played.
I have to agree with Taylor . WOZ is an awesome game but has too many issues for a NIB. If you know a bit about pins and don't mind becoming best friends with Frank at JJP I'd go for it.
I considered buying another game but after playing MMR,ST,ACDC,MB yesterday and seeing the dot matrix against the LCD of WOZ the other games seem dated. They were loads of fun however but still seemed stuck in the 90's.. I've almost decided to go with Hobbit. Just for the fun factor most any late excellent Stern or Williams will do. If you want the latest greatest toy there is its hard to beat JJP.
To be fair, all pins have issues. With WOZ, I'm guessing you hear about a higher percentage since people don't know how to work on them yet. Once people become comfortable with them, I'm guessing they won't be any/much worse than other games.
I haven't had many issues with mine, and I think it is a great game.
Quoted from herg:To be fair, all pins have issues. With WOZ, I'm guessing you hear about a higher percentage since people don't know how to work on them yet. Once people become comfortable with them, I'm guessing they won't be any/much worse than other games.
I haven't had many issues with mine, and I think it is a great game.
All pins have issues, that is certainly true. I think some elements in the design of this game make it difficult to determine the cause of those problems which can make diagnosing issues tough and intimidating. If anything I wish the connectors on this game were more secure, that has been the root cause of a lot of the problems that I have encountered on my game and others. In my discussions with Frank there were very similar sounding problems between a bad I/O board and just a loose connector.
Mine is not going anywhere which shows I feel about the game.
Quoted from TaylorVA:All pins have issues, that is certainly true. I think some elements in the design of this game make it difficult to determine the cause of those problems which can make diagnosing issues tough and intimidating. If anything I wish the connectors on this game were more secure, that has been the root cause of a lot of the problems that I have encountered on my game and others. In my discussions with Frank there were very similar sounding problems between a bad I/O board and just a loose connector.
Mine is not going anywhere which shows I feel about the game.
Would a site fix be to hot glue the connectors snugly in place, similar to how Stern does a few of their ribbon cables?
Heresy I know, but if it cuts down on service calls and cable wiggling...
Quoted from BC_Gambit:Would a site fix be to hot glue the connectors snugly in place, similar to how Stern does a few of their ribbon cables?
Heresy I know, but if it cuts down on service calls and cable wiggling...
I think so. I believe in some games the connector to the crystal ball is kept secure this way.
Taylor, on my machine the light board #1 (on mine its marked #1) was touching the side of the flipper for the witch shot , the vibration from the flipper mech was making my PF rgb leds all goofy. when you service these make sure that board is not touching that mech.
i put a foam washer on mine to insulate it similar to how you did in your pics.
Quoted from ls1chris:Taylor, on my machine the light board #1 (on mine its marked #1) was touching the side of the flipper for the witch shot , the vibration from the flipper mech was making my PF rgb leds all goofy. when you service these make sure that board is not touching that mech.
i put a foam washer on mine to insulate it similar to how you did in your pics.
Thanks. Per someone's suggestion, may have been yours, I checked around all flipper mechs
and everything seemed to have decent clearance.
Hey Taylor - what's the consensus with the light boards on the new Ruby Reds - are the lockup / board dying issues completely resolved on the latest machines? I just sold my LE and my daughter is already begging me to get another one & I would consider getting another nib if the light boards were truly no longer a issue - thoughts?
Quoted from mountaingamer:Hey Taylor - what's the consensus with the light boards on the new Ruby Reds - are the lockup / board dying issues completely resolved on the latest machines? I just sold my LE and my daughter is already begging me to get another one & I would consider getting another nib if the light boards were truly no longer a issue - thoughts?
The issues that early games had seems to have been resolved. My game has been 100% for a while with the new boards JJP sent so I'd assume games with new boards are going to be solid.
This is a complicated machine so there are tweaks to make it play 100% but IMO it's worth it. Love what Keith and Team have done with the game and the code update that's forthcoming is icing on the icing on the icing on the cake.
Quoted from jadziedzic:Taylor, how many RGB LED boards have you actually replaced in your game?
I think 8-10.
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