You are the generation before the unified power supply came into existence. You have an ATX power supply plus a switching power supply to run the LEDs.

Leave it - both supplies are replaceable just be aware that if you purchase an ATX replacement from somewhere like Amazon it will need two modifications before you can install it. Fortunately, you have your old supply as a model to work from. JJP also stocks the modified ATX supplies although they cost more.

No not at all. There are one or two different USB connections but nope. Shoot me a PM with your email address if you would and I will send you some stuff.

I have 3, 2 of which had the 2.0 kit intalled. Not having any issues but the one without 2.0 was not as early as the ones with the kits. There are more mechanisms that can have issues than almost any other pin

Still operating all three, Al?

I am not sure but I think they stopped because of a chipping issue from what I remember

Mine sure did chip.

Pretty sure I recall talk of a spat between Jack and Charlie Emery which resulted in JJP getting no longer their cabinets printed by the company Charlie was at.

Can't say about chipping as mine is still in the same condition it was in on the day I picked it up and unboxed it, some time in late July of '13 if I'm not mistaken.

Final comment - re the light boards. JJP went above and beyond to make my game good to go. They first swapped out the 5V power supply and all the light boards for the unbuffered 7.5 volt versions. All I had to do was drop it off at the midwest campus and they did the work. Then later, at least a year after my warranty expired, I swapped a few of the unbuffered boards for buffered ones at no cost. Since then the game has been rock solid.

How did you chip it? The one we have here on location still looks great.

By putting it on location and letting others play it.

Keep in mind this was an early direct print cab. Probably within the first 30 games made.

You missed my point. 5v buffered boards are better than 7 5 unbuffered and on par with 7 5 buffered. Glad yours hasn't had issues but there are people with 7.5 unbuffered boards having issues as well.

I didn't realize that JJP made 5v buffered boards. I thought that all the 5v boards were un-buffered since they were the first generation of light boards. Thanks for clearing that up.

Gord

A lot of the 5v boards have been buffered with daughter boards either installed or sent out by JJP to owners of games that had the 5v boards. Mine has these and are buffered.

According to JJP, if buffered, they are as reliable as buffered 7.5v boards. Unbuffered of either tend to be more problematic.

How do you tell the unbuffered boards from the buffered boards. Asking for a friend....

Buffered will have a little daughterboard added.

woz-boards (resized).jpg

But if you have or are getting a WoZ, the 2.0 light system is the way to go. Jack won't be offering them at a discount forever, and if you sell your old working boards, you end up at like $300 for a much more stable system that will last. Working 5 or 7.5v buffered or unbuffered are going to fail, it's just a matter of when because the design is flawed.

Let me add some extra info - later revision 7.5v boards have the buffers built in so there does not have to be a visible daughterboard.

I was out of the 1.0 lighting before those came around, I guess. I only had pics of 5v buffered/unbuffered and 7.5v buffered/unbuffered all with daughterboards. Do you have a pic of a 7.5v integrated buffered board?

UPC offers 12V, 5V, 24V and 7.5V on a single board.
but on YBR and from the first version there are 2 power supplies , one for 12v, 5V and 24v and an extra one for 7.5v.
Can you give me the part number used on the first generation for the extra power supply that gives the 7.5v.
Is it a Mean Well power supply on this picture ?

https://imgproxy.pinside.com/pWuSdNp7m1YJGXwQM0woUQmWh7xEvtDZVd8tC0pyHgI/rs:fit:1024/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2UvYjkvMTAvZWI5MTBiNzQ2NzVmYmM5NzM3ZTE3NmEwZTdjN2I1YjUwMzkxYzQxMy5qcGVn

I'll try to help you. First of all YBR Yellow Brick Road uses the same ATX 450w supply that all of our games since Pirates use and is replaceable off the shelf.

The first generation of WOZ had 5vdc light boards and used a modified ATX power supply PLUS a standard 40 and then later 60w switching power supply to run the lights - any switcher pretty much will do that job. To replace the modified ATX you have to modify an ATX power supply which is not the end of the world.

THEN came the UPS Unified Power Supply era. This board was an all in one and is in most WOZ games made prior to the introduction of the 2.0 lighting system. It is this power supply that is no longer available and no longer buildable due to obsolete components. The solution we have come up with and that is slowly being implemented out there is to substitute the NEXT generation power supply which in-house we call the Dr. Hung supply (named for the man that developed it for us based on the coming 2.0 light system and its needs). This is a more or less standard ATX with an extra module built onto the side of it (detachable) and debuted with The Hobbit. However, later WOZ games that have FACTORY installed 2.0 LED board systems - and there are more than you might think that were built this way - also come with a Dr. Hung supply installed at the factory. These are still in stock at the new factory. ALL Hobbits use them. This has become the replacement after the fact for the obsolete unified PS although it is not strictly plug n' play and needs a bit of information from the game so that it can be tweaked a bit (in some cases). This is a work in progress (retro fitting it for WOZ I mean; the power supply is rock solid).

DI represents a new start - boards all moved up into the head behind the monitor and the permanent shift to more or less standard ATX supplies for the future (Pirates / Wonka / GnR / Games 7 and 8, etc). The aforementioned YBR WOZ fits in here also.

Does that help?

Thanks for this information, it is very appreciated.
My another question is
if the UPS card fails, is it possible to get out of it by replacing the ATX power supply (from a computer store for ex) or we need the extra module built onto the side of it (detachable) by Dr. Hung ?
construction Schematics to do it yourself would be great

My UPS board died a month ago, and when dying it killed 23 LED boards (overvoltage on a LED Power line).
I was told by JJP support that there was no UPS board available, and engineering was trying to find an alternative supply...

I contacted European dealer that had a replacement power supply available (see picture). JJP told me that his power supply was OK, but just had to provide 12VDC to the chassis fan from the Molex connectors we can find outside the chassis.

Be advised that it looks like a classic ATX power supply (with another module for 7.5VDC), but IT'S NOT A CLASSIC ATX Supply.
First, you won't find an ATX supply off the shelf that provides +24VDC (which is needed for the audio board).
Then, you will need to have a squared 4-pins connector that provides +12VDC on first pin and +5VDC on last pin (and ground on the two others).

woz_psu (resized).jpg

THIS is the Dr. Hung power supply, supplied to the distributor by us, and we still have some in stock.

Could you explain me why JJP support did not propose me to buy this Dr Hung Power supply when my UPS board died?
It's almost plug&play for WOZ with 7.5V Led. Is this due to the chassis Fan which can not be powered by Dr Hung PS?

It has to do with the fact that it doesn't work as plug n play for all the UPS games - there are variations based on what voltage lighting system you had before and a couple of other factors. Since you spoke about this, our engineers have tentatively signed off on this as a viable solution but we have yet to officially release it as such. Plus there are a couple of additions like the fan as you mentioned.

Ok good to know. Technically, I see the extra module is a 7.5V/4V DC power supply. 7.5VDC is for Woz W/O kit 2.0, 4VDC is for Woz With the kit 2.0. As I do not see a switch on this module, how is performed voltage selection?

Does it mean the WOZ that have factory 2.0 Led Board use the 7.5VDC module supplied with Dr Hung?
If I upgrade my WOZ with a 2.0 Light Kit, could I use the 7.5VDC of Dr Hung? Or should I stick to the provided 4.0VDC PSU?