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(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 11,573 posts
  • 587 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 seconds ago by robey99
  • Topic is favorited by 273 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (4 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#30 6 years ago

I'm still waiting for mine but the few I've played have been fantastic. JJP has really exceeded my expectations except for the wait and even though the anticipation sux is there any other machine out there that takes pinball to the next level? There really is nothing equal to it - for now anyway.

2 weeks later
#222 6 years ago

In my day ALL pins were 5 ball games because each game had - count 'em- 5 balls. No recycling of one ball 5 times. You could easily have a 5 ball multiball by pulling the plunger 5 times. Trouble was, as there were no flippers, once the ball was in play you could push and nudge and that was about it. My WOZLE will be set at the old school 5 balls...when I get it.

9 months later
#656 5 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Has anyone tried using laminate as Mylar? I picked up this stuff today at Walmart - thinking I might put it between the pops, in front of the Winkie, and tnplh. I'm gonna wax first but still a little nervous of how this will come off down the road.

I used Gorilla tape in front of the Winkie - so far it's been great!

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#658 5 years ago

Hey "failure to kill the witch" WOZ owners. I just found out my witch switch was not registering all the time so your's might be out of whack too. Next time you have the glass off put it in switch mode and toss a ball into the switch. I didn't see any real way to adjust except to bend two metal tabs which I did and 'seemed to fix the problem.
The witch should say something every time you hit her in hurry up mode - mine only registered about 1 in 4 times. Now she's much better.

#660 5 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Thanks I'm going to blame the fact that I've never killed the witch on this and try the adjustments you suggested. However, it might just be I'm not good enough yet to kill her, but there have been times it did seem like so shots might not have registered.
Maybe it will be obvious when I look, but how much and in what way, did you bend the two metal tabs?

You have to remove the witch. You'll see 2 metal tabs (rather thick) that are the switch stops. Bend the stops away a little at a time but I'd say about 1/16 of an inch will do it. Check with JJP first as there might be a much easier and correct way to do this.

To remove witch remove the 2 nuts to the plastic witch cover on the upper playfield. Then remove the 2 screws below - be careful with the plastic posts as they tend to migrate to WOZ neverland. You have to remove the 2 screws anchoring the led light as well on the underside.

Mine is super sensitive now - much better! But again I just winged it - you might want to check with JJP first

2 months later
#717 5 years ago

How to you scroll from "shots" to "bumpers"?

#724 5 years ago

I don't remember the settings but I cut down the pops a lot and state fair a little. The game is much quieter now and I haven't noticed a difference in ball speed exiting the bumpers. Also you don't get the feeling the ball is being forced through the playfield.

#738 5 years ago
Quoted from Rick432:

How strong is the castle miniplayfield flipper supposed to be?
Mine is kind of weak, but very playable. I had assumed it was supposed to be like that, but someone posted about their flipper coil stop needing to be tightened and loc-tited, to get that flipper strong and behaving like it should.
I just don't want to have to deal with removing the castle PF if there isn't anything wrong with that flipper being weakish.

Yours sounds like you may need to just adjust the strength. When the 2 of my coil stops loosened you first notice a failure of the flipper to return to rest position. No need to remove castle playfield yet.

2 weeks later
#809 5 years ago

It's looks a little like mine around the winkie but mine's not as bad. it's more of a chipping than wearing down. You need to dial down the pops a bit and repair any damage like this pronto. Then cover with a protective -I had nothing else but Gorilla tape but it worked.

#813 5 years ago

Mine was August 2014 and I got the chipping. No chipping over the wood part but the plastic might have adhesion problems. The plastic diamond near the winkie was painted to look like a diamond but is much larger when view from the underside. Also the ball comes to a quick stop with the winkie up and you get some digging in kind of like the Shadow santum . I fixed it and you really can't tell but you ought to be aware of it - shine a light on the area and look for bubbling.

7 months later
#1003 4 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

Can you all help with recommendations on where to buy one new for a great price, BUT with confirmed great service after the sell? I'm especially looking for excellent tech support because this would be my first pin. Lastly, if you know someone who is sadly having to sell their 75th Anniversary (only one I want) then are they a reliable seller? I SOOOOOoOO want to join this forum!
I just remodeled my office into a man cave yesterday by closing in a wall for this pin!

If you can use a volt meter you should be OK. Tech support at JJP is excellent and they can guide you through any problems. Try Joe at Pinballstar.

1 month later
#1054 4 years ago

I don't think I could get 11.8 million even with the glass off. My best is 1.2 million with 5 WOZ balls and 2 of my own. Mine's at 3 balls now so I'm not sure I can do even that.

1 week later
#1096 4 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

New code Multiball got a little too intense for TOTO last night............


Bad dog! Bad!

2 weeks later
#1122 4 years ago

For me - Increase lower flippers power, decrease pops.

#1134 4 years ago

There are 2 witch switches so figure out if it's the upper or lower. Then loosen the switch on the underside, adjust and retighten.

#1135 4 years ago

You may have to adjust both

#1137 4 years ago

You'll see 2 micro switches on the underside of the witch . They have a roller attached to them. Push the witch switch as a ball would and observe how it works while looking at the underside. Each of the 2 switches is attached to the mounting plate. You need to loosen the switch where it mounts then you can slide it towards or away from the activating plate. I think it was 2 very small Phillips screws.

#1141 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Well . . . now my ruby slipper fell off the flipper bat. I assume this is fixed with just a couple drops of super glue, is that right?

Mine fell off as well. Super Glue Gel and put into a vise. So far OK

#1142 4 years ago

I talked with Mr Melvin Anderson of JJP quality control witch switch division. While he is sorry you had witch trouble he suspects someone monkeyed with the witch after it left the factory.


#1146 4 years ago

One of my witch switches wasn't working at all and the other only with a direct hit. I keep reading about others melting the witch and I wasn't even getting close which got me to adjust the switches. I still haven't melted the witch but I think I'm starting to piss her off.

Also my WOZ has had a soft close of one castle door since new. Thanks to others posting here I finally got the nerve to remove the upper playfield and fixed it so thanks a lot to all the helpful posters here.

#1194 4 years ago

Congrats on your new WOZ! I liked mine from the very first time I played it and even more now. It's definitely a keeper.

#1228 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Not sure what was in the way - did a little moving and shifting and the game SEEMS to close now. It still takes a TON of effort, but at least the playfield comes down now. The lock down bar is a bitch to put on, though. Like, I have to work it HARD to get it locked. Could that be due to uneven Invisiglass?
Also, running into a weird issue. The left tree pop won't fire. In coil test, it makes a thud noise like it's trying to figure, but it can't. Anyone have any thoughts on how to diagnose and fix it?

It sounds like the coil is firing but the linkage is too tight or binding. You might try to loosen the linkage a bit. Also make sure the coil stop is secure. It has Allen type screws. Press on the ones that DO work as you observe under the playfield and you should see a difference in the pop that doesn't work.

#1235 4 years ago

The WOZ lock down was stiff for me as well. Try grabbing the handle and push towards the ceiling as you push to the right - this helps a bit. I ended up taking the lock mechanism apart and readjusting but it still is tight.

#1259 4 years ago

I'm not sure it this is what is being talked about but the balls can become magnetized and won't drop from the monkey. A piece on electrical tape on the monkey magnet will fix this.

#1264 4 years ago

The way I understand it the monkey picks up the ball and deposits it in the correct place but the correct place isn't holding it. My WOZ is 120 miles away now but the way i remember the monkey releases the ball by cutting off the upper magnet. A lower magnet should activate to "catch" the ball. It sounds like your lower magnet is not activating. Mine did this because a screw on one of the monkey switches came out so make sure each of the upper and lower monkey switches have 2 screws in each. My whole switch would pivot causing the sequence to malfunction. Otherwise check with Frank or Loyd.

#1270 4 years ago

Sorry people I was going from memory. It sounds like the upper monkey switch.
It will probably show good in the switch test but you might need to adjust it. See about a missing screw as well

#1273 4 years ago

Make sure the switch is firmly attached first. You'll see a metal tab extending from the upper and lower switch. The monkey presses against the tab which
In turn presses the switch. You need to bend the upper switch away from the monkey so monkey must travel further to activate the switch

2 weeks later
#1377 4 years ago

I could live without the shaker too but 'was included in the price. I don't find
the WOZ music too repetitive but I do enjoy listening to my IPOD while playing with WOZ muted a lot. Pinnovator's thru the door volume adjust is a well spent $70 for those interested.

1 month later
#1511 4 years ago
Quoted from clg:

The mezel Winkie looks great but doesn't last. It is not strong enough and will break

I have to agree - I've broken two. But the light is nice anyway.

2 weeks later
#1554 4 years ago

There is a switch at the bottom of the winkie. Make sure it's working properly - a protrusion on Winkie should push the long leaf (blade) which activates the switch in the Winkie down position. If this switch is not working the Winkie will just try to reset over and over causing the clicking noise.

#1555 4 years ago

The only other thing I can think of in that area is the VUK that kicks the ball to the upper playfield. You can put your WOZ in test switch mode and activate the switch using a ball, rag, or anything that will block the opto. I believe blocking the hole will result in a green light in the switch test. But Winkie is far more common. It's easy for the Winkie leaf blade to get on the wrong side of the Winkie protrusion

#1562 4 years ago
Quoted from clg:

The light does still leak through and does make it a bit more visible than nothing. The mod does look great when it works but the plastic they print with just is not strong enough.

'Same with me. 'Broke two and now back to original. You still get a little light around the space between the winkie and the hole but it could be a whole lot brighter. If someone can make a stronger clear winkie I'd for sure go for it.

#1586 4 years ago

Get a tuffer clear Winkie from indypinhead - see WOZ target thread.

#1612 4 years ago

I left mine on 5 balls about 1 year then change to 3 balls. 3 balls is better - no more long shitty games and you can earn extra balls.

#1627 4 years ago

Keep track of which board(s) go bad and get with JJP support. It's not normal especially with Rubys. Maybe monitor the voltage at the wall past the surge protector.

#1629 4 years ago

Something's going on with your machine that is not common with Ruby's. I'd suspect the location but it could be in the pin as well. You need to rule out all the stuff you can then get with JJP

#1632 4 years ago

Keep in mind i'm pretty much an electronic idiot. But it sounds like your board power source is spiking and blowing out the weakest light board. The replacement board may be beefier but it'll just blow out the next weaker original board. This may be why the boards keep blowing but not the same one.

3 weeks later
#1754 4 years ago

I get the Forth of July lights when I hit either flipper. Is it possible to narrow down which connection is
loose by shutting down a single board in the software and seeing if the problem goes away?

1 month later
#1920 4 years ago

Also make sure you have the game at your desired slope before you do this. This will affect the Munchkin ball release.

#1927 4 years ago

You might reseat the opto plug to the trough.
I'd also prefer to cut the game on and off by the switch.

1 week later
#2016 4 years ago

I decreased power to the pops - much quieter and still gets the job done. Power to flippers
was increased so ball would clear the ramps.

#2066 4 years ago

With the Pinnovators WOZ kit you can adjust the master volume w/o opening the door. This is great
for headphone users that like it loud. You cut off the external speakers the normal way then increase the
master volume to your liking w/o the normal find the key, open the door, stuff.

It fits TH too.

1 week later
#2254 4 years ago

I just used gel type super glue and put in a vise. So far so good-about a year.

2 weeks later
#2475 4 years ago

I'm not sure how to handle this. About 2 weeks after ownership a large chip exited the Winkie area. I repaired and things seemed to be OK. But now large chips are everywhere. I have the pops set at a low level except at the balloon. I'm interested in if JJP has a decal to cover. 'Not interested in replacing the whole playfield unless populated.

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#2480 4 years ago

I'll give them a call. I bought this WOZ new - never routed.

#2495 4 years ago

Let me clarify - The first major chip to go was when the game was two weeks old in around the Winkie area. It was a black chip so I painted black and covered the area with cliffy type material. I saw no more wear as of May/2016 (Aug 2014 born on date). The rest of the wear occurred over last summer.

#2501 4 years ago

You need to find out which board is bad or which connector isn't connected. The boards are daisy chained together so your problem is the first bad board or connection - everything downwind of the bad board will be out as well. I like to go into "sound test" and "repeat". This lights up the board and you have music you can dance to while you fix it. Raise the playfied and it's relatively easy to figure out - the boards are numbered and cables have a "from" and "to". There's a diagram on the big silver box under the playfield that might be helpful.

I tried to reach JJP parts all day Friday and no one answered. Also no answer on my service ticket. Maybe everyone is tied up with the JJP#3 stuff for now.

3 weeks later
#2688 4 years ago

I'm going to state the obvious - make sure your game has the proper pitch. If you have nothing else you can download "clinometer" on your phone to set the angle of the playfield (not the glass) . Also check level left to right.

But it appears the rubber below is not in it's groove or the last round target is intruding into the ball alley as others have said.

#2753 4 years ago

Assuming you can't hear it even try to kick a ball check the fuse as mentioned above. My WOZ had the coil wire to the up kicker too close to the solenoid and shorted out so check the insulation wires to the coil. It's a good idea to get several fuses from JJP as back ups.

#2783 4 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Yes and no. It was a fuse because the coil to the drop target was melted basicaly. I clipped the single wire to the coil (goes to the board), put a new fuse in and it works great. I had to order a new coil but i can still play it right now.

Make sure the leaf switch to the Winkie is positioned properly and no screws missing. If not the Winkie will keep trying to reset and might overheat the coil.

2 weeks later
#2861 4 years ago
Quoted from Mechanized:

WOZ owners, does anybody else have their ball not make it up the munchkin ramp when shooting a lined up shot from right flipper?
I don't want to increase power, because I have "bounces" reduced to a minimum.
Just curious...
I love the game, however sometimes I feel Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!! When the ball falls short of power to make it up the ramp. "That could've started a multi ball, you know"

I increased flipper power due to ramp frustration but 'haven't noticed any bounces. Maybe you can slide the flipper rubber ring up a tiny bit to compensate. That said the right flipper ramp shot has to be accurate - I usually try to stop/hold the ball in the right flipper first before making the shot.

3 weeks later
#2981 3 years ago

I've had too many issues but still it's a great game. I've also had the left flipper white lights and added a pull tie to the high voltage left coil wires to keep them away from the nearest light board. This worked for me.

I don't know about your monkey but anyone that has to go back there, while you're in there, make sure the two screws holding the switch to the plate are tight. Mine self loosened and caused problems.

1 month later
#3141 3 years ago

Ditto that . I bought direct from JJP but it doesn't get you anything. Joe from Pinballstars is nice to deal with and you'll
probably get it faster. Joe has donated a lot of time and money to the pinball community so support him if you can.

4 weeks later
#3437 3 years ago

It you're getting colors (but wrong ones) and not total failure try swapping cables.

1 week later
#3540 3 years ago

Red Smoke Witch Mod is $200 but well worth it. I wish JJP would make it a factory option

#3553 3 years ago
Quoted from shicketmaster:

I've Always had the random LED glitches where things are a wrong color and solid when they should be something else,but nothing that didn't improve with restarting the machine. But today, the left LED in "there's no place like home" is super bright and constantly flickering. It tries to maintain the correct color but annoys the crap out of you as you play. Guess I'll be ordering a new board.

Swap your cables first with a similar length cable from elsewhere - this worked for me.

2 weeks later
#3643 3 years ago

It looks like something is happening between the "o" and "w" in rainbow. You just might need to reseat a cable. 'Don't have a chart to tell you which one with me but call JJP. Also your Wizard/upper right playfield is lit in one pic and not lit in the other.
Get the chart from JJP and you can trace it back

1 month later
#3863 3 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I put in the pinball bulbs brightening kit, and it is super bright. I might be reducing the number of spotlights or trying to dim them somehow. Any thoughts or experiences with this? It seems like overkill.
Also I've been having an intermittent sound issue which I think I have traced to the RCA cables coming from the PC. But it seems like possibly several of them are causing the problem, as I can't isolate it to just one cable. It goes in and out when I wiggle/adjust a few of them. Has anyone had this problem or replaced the cables and/or barrel connectors at the PC they plug into?

You can bend the outer part of the RCA connectors for a tighter fit (both inside and outside the metal box) I also added a pull tie to sort of stabilize all the cables coming out of the back of the metal box-not too loose or too tight. I haven't had any troubles since.

1 week later
#3905 3 years ago

Get them to send spare fuses while you're at it

3 months later
#4286 3 years ago

Place a piece of electrical tape on the magnet if it will not release

1 week later
#4347 3 years ago

Shoot that sphere with speed. The crystal ball

#4348 3 years ago

Maybe I'm wrong...

1 year later
#7160 1 year ago

I'm running Ver. 6.5. Can I upgrade directly to 7.1 or need to install each upgrade after 6.5 one at a time?

#7186 1 year ago

I can't seem to get my update to work. I downloaded 7.01 to the computer. I get a disc icon with Wizard of Oz v07.01. I right click on icon and send to formatted USB. WOZ doesn't seem to recognize update. I keep getting Version 6.5 on start up.

#7189 1 year ago

Thanks a lot!!! You RULE! It had been quite a while since I updated so I was very rusty. The WOZ file stopped at 37% from the above link (stuff happens) so I downloaded direct from t he JJP website. Then just followed directions on above link. I even saved my old settings and reloaded sucessfully which is a real time saver.

#7228 1 year ago

I have #622 and my light boards have been fine. My light problems have been with loose connections. You need to get a flow chart of the lights and decide where your problem starts. Like old Christmas lights they are in a chain and everything after the problem connection or board is affected. Usually you'll see normal stuff to point A and everything after that is bad. Bad usually means off color or whited out led's . These can usually be fixed by removing and reconnecting the cables starting at the cable leaving the last "good" light board.

1 week later
#7280 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

My munchkin land ball lock at house is having issues.
Doesnt always want to release multiball, it will finally release one in ball search, but not all 3. Works sometimes, but now its reached 50/50.
Ive checked connections and wires, looks tight and good. Thinking cold solder to coil?
Maybe increase strength in coils?

I'd check the optos - makes sure your WOZ is "seeing" 1,2 or 3 balls . If that's OK and the wand doesn't even try to raise it might be an issue with the coil.

2 months later
#7995 1 year ago

Use Indy. I've broken 2 of the others

#7998 1 year ago

I'd just use what you have until it breaks. The early Mezel's seemed to be 3d printed and you can see and feel fine lines on the part that sticks under the playfield. I think Mezel fixed this but not sure. The Indy's seem to be molded or cut from a polycarbonate and have no horizontal flat lines anywhere.

#8004 1 year ago

I've been absent for a while but anyone add the Pinstadium lights? What do you think?

3 weeks later
#8396 1 year ago

I have the early boards also - no problem with the boards but the connectors to and from seem to need reseating or a pull tie to reroute a bit away from high voltage. If you're getting the boards to light but maybe the wrong color, like white instead of green especially on cue with flipper activation, this is probably your problem also.

2 weeks later
#8507 1 year ago

You can up the power to the upkicker. Make sure the flap that keeps balls in the trough swings freely. Check ball though for any obstruction - the rubber tips to the shooter rods sometimes break off and fall there.

#8518 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Anyone have suggestion for fixing pf chipped paint? Do i need primer? What brand of paint? Clearcoat or just wax?

I bought a Testors paint set like you paint models with. You can mix colors to get the proper hue. This is good for small chips. If your side rails or lock bar are chipped replacements are available from JJ as long as you have a Ruby Red. ECLE green is no longer available, at least the side rails. The side rails are cheap. Lock bar is not so cheap.

#8558 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

Wow, 1500 games later, I've never realized that Turning my game on now !

You're not the only one - I feel a bit dumb

1 week later
#8675 1 year ago

My old original boards are working fine so I see no reason to upgrade. I imagine there are people who upgraded that would be willing to sell their old boards for $!00 or so. I see no need to just upgrade for the heck of it @ $800 per game. If you've had problems the upgrade is understandable but it's not for me.

#8699 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

My lights have been out for 6 months. Because of a faulty light design, why do I HAVE TO PAY 800 to fix JJP’s problem?

All the lights or certain ones? Totally out?

2 months later
#9355 1 year ago

Howdy! 'Just wanted to say how pleased I am over my help with the JJP staff in the past (they have helped me so very much) but how really shitty
how now when I have a problem they don't get back to you after leaving a message. I figured out my problem but it took me quite a while - if I could have spoken with someone it would have saved me a ton of trouble shooting. I understand there are times when people are tied up but they should get back to you if you leave your contact information.
My thanks to Shannan in the parts department for her prompt service and my past help with problem solving- I wish I could remember the names of the people were so patient keeping my WOZ running in the past, they were so very helpful. I hope JJP has not become just another problem ignoring company.
When I leave a message I expect someone to get back to me - is this too much to ask?

3 weeks later
#9488 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

I finally got a nice woz in my collection
I fixed the monkey by tightening the screws on the black plastic thing that seems not so robust.
The machine is a pro, done on June 18th 2014
What are the things I need to look at? I red that some had issues with undersized power supply or fuse?
Is there any tutorial to remove the buzzing noise produced by backbox speakers?
Anyway, I'm in love with it!!

Many times the RCA connectors cause the buzzing so slightly move those while machine is on - these are red, black or yellow tipped wires exiting the big metal box. You can bend the outer RCA thingy's a bit to make them more snug or use pull ties to anchor them. If it's not these check other wires low near the back box - simply move them and see if the noise goes away.

With your first JJP order I'd buy an assortment of fuses, an extra rubber shooter tip, an extra pair of flipper shoe plastics, and one long light board cable to use as a jumper to trouble shoot light problems.

#9517 12 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Just about the potential issues with undersized power supply or fuse story, shall I fear that with my June 2014 model?

Mine is 8/14 and while I had a lot of problems the 1st year the later years have been OK. I imagine any common problems with your machine have been sorted out already.

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