(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

6 years ago

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  • 11,291 posts
  • 578 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by FatPanda
  • Topic is favorited by 268 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (6 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (3 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (1 year ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (1 year ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (26 days ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4382 2 years ago

I am going to go look at a WOZ, what issues should I be on the lookout for?

1 week later
#4415 2 years ago

I'm looking at a WOZ with a build date of 8/19/2015. I've been reading through some of the threads about the light board issues, but it is not clear to me what the resolution was and what build dates have all the correct working components. Can someone help me figure this out as I don't want to grab a problem game that won't be under warranty. Thx

#4420 2 years ago

I picked up the WOZ today, so excited as its a fun game! I went into the light test menu and all but 4 lights are 100% perfect. 4 of the GI lights won't do white, instead are blue. Any thoughts? Do I need to replace these 4?

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#4421 2 years ago

We're having a blast with the machine! Amazing! I went ahead and ordered 5 GI light boards, 1 as a spare. I tried re-seating the connectors and it didn't help so I am pretty sure I just need new boards. No biggie. LOVE THE GAME

#4430 2 years ago

I've noticed a couple of strange things with the WOZ I got on Saturday.

1) One time I turned it on and had no playfield lights, had to turn it off and back on and then it was ok
2) One time the crystal ball screen was all scrambled. Again, I rebooted the machine and it was fine

Just wondering if others have had this happen and if there is any particular solution? Thx

#4434 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I used to have the no lights issue from time to time but don't believe I have since updating to the latest code. Is your code up to date? Has anyone had this happend with 6.5?

First thing I did Sunday morning was update to 6.5, both issues happened since then.

1 month later
#4495 2 years ago

Received a NIB RRWOZ today Couple of issues though. The drop target won't pop-up at all. I tested the coil and it pop's up fine. So must be a switch issue? Also, there is a connector that I think is coming from the left upper play field that isn't plugged in to anything, see picture below, thoughts?

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#4511 2 years ago

My RR WOZ came with 2.0 lights. Looks well designed.

#4519 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't worry about the connector.
Drop target - go into Tests - switches - matrixed, see if the drop target switch works. May need adjusting.
LTG : )

Yep, the switch needed to be adjusted a bit, it thought the target was always up even when it was down, so tweaked the switch a bit and now it's working.

#4523 2 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Joining the club very soon. Just purchased WOZ RR edition. A while back, was there not a guide on what adjustments and other things you needed to do before playing WOZ?

Did you request a 2.0 version???

#4525 2 years ago

Right castle door won't open and also getting an alert to check the castle flipper EOS switch. So I guess I need to remove that play field. does anyone have documentation on that process? Also, any advice on what to look for on these 2 issues? Thx

#4527 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Documentation for removing both mini playfields is in the owner's manual.
Bob K.

Ah ha! There it is, thx

#4528 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't worry about the connector.
Drop target - go into Tests - switches - matrixed, see if the drop target switch works. May need adjusting.
LTG : )

So that connector is for the castle flipper EOS switch, which I am getting an alert on to check......Shouldn't it be connected somewhere?
Also The right castle door isn't opening, looks like that is directly connected to a motor, so is the motor faulty?

#4530 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If it is for the castle flipper EOS, yes, it goes somewhere. From back of the metal box up to the underside of the castle playfield.

Listen to it, if it sounds like the motor is turning. Then the set screws holding the door shaft to the motor are loose. Remove door, remove castle playfield, drop motor assembly down to get access to them.
LTG : )

Ah, found where the EOS switch wires plug in, connector was hidden in a bundle of wires.

#4531 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If it is for the castle flipper EOS, yes, it goes somewhere. From back of the metal box up to the underside of the castle playfield.

Listen to it, if it sounds like the motor is turning. Then the set screws holding the door shaft to the motor are loose. Remove door, remove castle playfield, drop motor assembly down to get access to them.
LTG : )

AND Castle door works again! Tightened the screws on the motor shaft and now it's a-ok! I'm back in action! Thanks LTG

1 week later
#4584 2 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Honestly It is when I have to start to take off mini playfields or lots of upper playfield part that I fall short. My TZ mini playfield have had the center insert light socket burnt out for years. My StarTrek LE STERN put one POP bumper LED half way under the Vengeance Ship Mech . I can live with those issues But WOZ to rebuild a flipper or change the back sling . Castle Door stuck . It may never happen but as many say on here and it is true " Its Pinball" . I guess I am intimidated by WOZ . But I could do it if I put my mind to it . And it was not in my main pinball room were my pinballs are so close together 5 on one wall 4 on the opposite wall . I have to put it in my so called Dining room to have room to work . Its gotten like I am pack rat . My AFM is part way into a closet I took the door off . That LED conversion was hard to do I was like an octopus . I apologize for the non WOZ photos .

I live in Denver's southern suburbs, maybe a 1 hour drive from you. I'm pretty good working on most mechanical issues and most electrical issues. I did a playfield swap in STTNG and TAF, so I've had some good experience. I also keep all the games in my collection maintained and working 100%. The whole point of this is that you should get a WOZ, it's a great game. If you get super stuck on something I'd come help. I agree with the other posts above, get a WOZ RR with 2.0 boards. I got one about 2 weeks ago from Automated Services. I called and spoke to Mike and made it clear I wanted to be 100% sure I would receive a 2.0. I couldn't be happier.

#4585 2 years ago

So my castle door isn't opening again, I assume loose screw again. Any advice on how to secure these doors so I don't have to keep removing this upper playfield??? Maybe thread lock and torque down the screws as tight as I can without breaking them? Seems like ideally the shafts would have flat spots to help hold in place..........Thx

1 month later
#4918 2 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

The State Fair is making me nuts! I'm not sure if there is an issue with my machine or everyone has the same experience, but the State Fair bumpers fire like crazy during the game.
I've tried dialing the milliseconds down to 3 or 4 and they still pop constantly during the game when the ball is at the top of the playfield or elsewhere, not near the State Fair. I might not mind the noise and banging if there was a purpose, but it seems that solenoids are popping when I use flippers or there's another motion on the playfield that's causing the solenoids to uselessly fire.
I have a WOZ RR 2017 build. Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks.

Probably the leaf switch underneath the pop bumper needs to be bent slight so that vibration doesn’t complete the circuit.

#4934 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Opinions wanted.
Leave it alone and just play (and replace the whole mini pf at a later date)
Put mylar down in that area and play
Put mylar down and get the cliffy
Other: please specify

Curl up in the fetal position and cry for a few hours, then regroup and come up with a plan.

#4936 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

That was not an option in my survey pal!
I will take you up on your offer though.

Yes it was! Other: please specify

#4941 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

But you gotta state "Other" and THEN your option.

I did fetal position crying

1 month later
#5094 2 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Phew....just read this entire thread over the last month. Lots of great info. I've been saving since Xmas to purchase this pin. Going to be ordering on Monday. Getting a RR and cant wait to get it. Love the candy red on this game. Ordered plastic protectors and lit drop target from Indy and Cliffys are on the way too.

Make sure and get the 2.0 lighting system

2 weeks later
#5183 2 years ago

The 2.0 system is the bomb!

#5212 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

No, I was referring to Automated Services in CT, a JJP distributor. Lucky for you, it sounds like your WOZ didn't come from them.

I have purchased a few machines from Automated and always had a good experience. Care to elaborate on why you are bashing them?

#5216 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

My issue with Automated is well documented in one of these WOZ topics.

Meh, ok whatever. I’m going going to flip through 106 pages of babble to figure it out. Not that interested......

#5219 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Easy enough to find, using the Search feature. But yeah, meh...whatever.
Long story short, Automated lied to me & said whatever they had to say to make the sale. Sent me a WOZ75 from before the 2.0 upgrade when I SPECIFICALLY AND EXPLICITLY stated I only wanted to purchase a newer machine manufactured after 12.15.16, and explained WHY. They swore to me up and down that it was one of the brand new ones. When I opened it up and saw it was not, they changed their story and said there was no way they could have known the Manufacture Date. I wound up having a TON of problems with that particular unit which were unrelated to the lighting system. JJP took care of me and made everything right, but no thanks to Automated. Used car salesman tactics. Screw them.

Sorry you had that experience with them. I also asked them for a 2.0 RR WOZ and they said no problem and I received one. Not sure what happened in your case but that sucks

2 weeks later
#5276 2 years ago

Does your invoice specify a 2.0? I insisted on a 2.0 and made sure it was on my invoice before I paid. If yours has 2.0 listed on the invoice then they should make it right. If you paid by CC you would also have some leverage there as long as your invoice specifics 2.0, because they would be in violation of the contractural terms.

#5278 2 years ago

They should probably just send them back to JJP to be upgraded to 2.0, but I suppose if they discounted them people might buy them too.

1 month later
#5433 2 years ago

For 9000 would for sure go with a NIB RR with 2.0 boards.

1 week later
#5515 2 years ago
Quoted from boomgopinball:

Been having trouble with my Castle doors. The left opens fine. Right tries to open but looks like it is restricted or the door stop isn't disengaging. I think in test it seemed like the 'lock' for the door (what keeps it closed when hitting it) wasn't engaging.
Plan on taking the Castle pf off to see what came loose as it'll work intermittently. Any ideas what to look at.

Both of mine eventually did this, loose set screw.

3 months later
#6065 2 years ago

My RRWOZ came with a manual

3 months later
#6421 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I'm still searching for a quality shooter rod for my WOZ RR. The colored balls I've seen don't impress me like the gold shooter ring on Hobbit or the Aztec coin on POTC. What are other WOZ owners using for custom shooter rods on their games? I just want to replace the plain black shooter knob with something that blends with the game and isn't tacky. Suggestions?

I like my Toto rod

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2 months later
#6923 1 year ago
Quoted from whitey:

WOZ fans, I just sold my Woz standard
Which was beautiful and had a direct print etc. is it me ? Or am I the only one that really likes the YBR edition ?
I think the yellow wire forms look great
Yes it’s expensive but I paid $9k for a Munsters LE and dumped it. I’m
A huge B/W fan, JJP and American pinball
Because of build quality
Might pull the trigger on YBR ??

Even without a monkey???

#6942 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Guys I’m deciding on yellow brick edition the only thing missing is the flying monkey ? Man I like flying monkey

Get the RR with 2.0 boards. Has the monkey, looks great and is 2k cheaper.

#6998 1 year ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

YBR is an amazing version of WOZ! NO matter what anyone says JJP did an amazing job. Some high end retail stores around here told me they're going to sell the game for a few thousand over list... I think that means good things for current WoZ owners. The previously versions resale value I think is going up!

Removing the monkey is inexcusable

#7037 1 year ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

I had to take my WOZ head off to get it into my basement. It is actually easy as it only has three wires that goes into head.

Luckily you don’t have a YBR

1 week later
#7123 1 year ago
Quoted from thanhdlam1985:

View this unboxing youtube video at 27:31. I did not get the protective seal on the playfield like in the video.

That plastic he is peeling off is off the Playfield protector. It’s an add-on item(extra cost) that most games don’t have. Playfield protectors suck, so count yourself lucky there.

Perhaps your game was opened and used in a photo shoot or something? I’d check the stats for number of games played. If it’s under 50 and your game looks perfect I’d forget about it.

#7169 1 year ago

Think I’ll stick with where I’m at. New code sounds like a downgrade.........

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