Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tomn.
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As mentioned previously skip the dongle and plug directly into the computer. I had a similar problem with my RR and it worked that way. I agree with you that it doesn’t make much sense as to why it’s working on one and not the other.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:You might want to revise your ad with what version of board, buffered or not, etc. Potential buyers will be asking.
Was just thinking that same thing 
Quoted from zaphX:Yeah once you've seen it a few times it's not a big deal.
Let me ask you this....Why is the physical ball lock on Wonka a must have, but the lock on Woz a hard pass? They are basically the same thing correct? Everyone can like what they like obviously. I would argue, that the lock on Wonka is kind of simplistic and unimaginative. When compared to the Monkey lock on Woz. Is it because it could potentially be more of a pain to keep working?
Quoted from zaphX:Honestly it's that. I already lubed my monkey once and it's already slowing and dropping the ball again.
It's not a big deal to lube it again, but it's kinda messy as the first time you run it, it flings lube all over your room.
I would very happily trade my ECLE for a YBR and just do without it.
I do not mind fixing a thing on a pin. In fact I enjoy it. I do mind chronic repairs to the same thing repeatedly though.
I do get that point completely. Pinball is a constant battle is it not?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Not the thin oil for spinners, the grease.
Sil-glide for gearboxes and bearings and such.
amazon.com link »
I’ve never had to lube my monkey and it still works just fine. Just lucky I guess. Lol
Quoted from meSz:Just some thought about using mylar, in this case the ball is hitting the side of the upper pf. by hitting the side it's, basically, hitting the side of the clear causing the clear to lift and ultimately lift or crack. I would think, and this is just my opinion, the mylar being a soft material wouldn't fully protect the area. The Cliffy is made of a solid material thus it doesn't allow the ball to repeatedly hit the clear.
Again, this is just my thoughts and by no means do I have anything to back it up.
You would think, but Mylar has worked for me pretty well. Put some on very early on and it seems to do the job. Although I’m sure part of that is huo with low plays. TBH most huo games don’t need protectors installed I’ve found. Maybe I take it easy on my games. Had a protector on my X-men that actually impacted ball movement. Eventually had to remove it.
Quoted from DiabloRush:I purchased a Woz with the 7.5 buffered boards and was repeatedly told there were no issues, they were solid, I shouldn't worry, he didn't have any issues, ever. Within the first 2 hours of play, whole segments of the lighting failed. I bought a set of used 7.5 boards (they're easy to find when people do the 2.0 upgrade), and I replaced the bad boards. I continued to get failures and continued to replace boards on a regular basis.
I finally had enough. I found a set of 2.0 boards and installed them. Zero issues since. Good luck, YMMV.
That’s just bad luck. Lol. I’ve had my ruby red since 2015 with 7.5 and zero issues. Have a spare 7.5 for backup and haven’t had to use them. (Knock on wood).
Quoted from bobukcat:Yep, this is exactly why I prefer the 2.0 system - because even though I have a few GI LEDs that won't display white the game is 100% playable. When the 7.5 boards failed (twice when I was hosting people/league) I had to take the game out of service until I could replace the board.
This makes complete sense. However people can't be certain that they won't have problems with 2.0 either....Sterns have problems with Node boards failing...Should they all be discounted? All pins have problems and issues. If you as a consumer can't accept that then this hobby may not be for you. BTW this is not directed at you Bobukcat...Just used your statement.
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Lambertville, MI