Regarding the WOZ rulesheet at papa:

I wrote the first draft... you can contact me here or at tiesmasc at yahoo dot com

Definitely need the help!!!

Did all WOZ come with a Trough Ball Stop (as seen in pictures here --> http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html)?

I ask b/c my machine which was manufactured in June of 2014 doesn't have one and the Manual (version 3.0 from June 2014 also) suggests it should (on page A-8 of manual)... but I don't see it indicated on the schematic on page C-27

Regardless... any suggestions on how to add one / where to get one (preferably not an entire trough but just the flap and necessary connection hardware). Would something like this work? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1168

Mistake... deleted

Found it. Much smaller than I pictured in my mind. Thank you! Also think I'm onto the solution for occasional trough kickout rejects... Think it is the apron so I'm going to try some spacers so it moves forward a little.

Am loving the new code... and <brag> finally got SOTR!!! </brag> FYI: when the ramp is lit for SOTR it is awesome... the yellow brick road lights become a animated rainbow like thing.

SOTR-SRT.jpg

Game time was 62 minutes and change.

A few oddities on the way:

1. After getting the 3 munchkin modes before the multiball the progress towards the multiball stopped being displayed in the status reports (i.e. it looks like you haven't played any munchkin modes). Fortunately the actual status is correct and the next munchkin is the multiball and the jewel is awarded. (phew... was I worried... that was the last one I needed)

2. After SOTR it seemed like the ramp light (the one that shows you have the munchkin land playfield lit) was lit a dull green and didn't change.

FYI: My game is at 6.5 degrees and settings are default except special awards extra ball, ball saver set to 10 seconds (might be too generous), and Toto set to allow 5 waves (but I only used 1). Might be one or two other minor mods... and now probably time for me to start making the game a bit more difficult (7 degrees, less time on ball saver, etc.)

What settings do you all typically have for your games?

Originally I was thinking the above but based upon watching the ball get ejected from the trough I was seeing it deflect appropriately and then hitting the side of apron just to the right of that. So if I were to bend it outward more that would only worsen the problem. That led me to think the below...

So far, a single washer to move the right side of the apron forward about 1/16" seems to have resolved the issue!!! Will of course be doing "more testing" in the near future

The things that are helping me increase scores are (in approximate order of most to least)

Increasing Skill / New Tricks (I'm getting better ball control during multiballs and after watching a few videos picked up a few two-ball cradle backhand shots)
Add-a-ball
Resurrection
Fireball Frenzy extra ball

Note: I have gotten the HOADC extra ball too... but that is still rather rare and seems to add more risk than reward (for me at this point).

Agreed that my settings need some changes to increase difficulty (and the reason I included them so people could comment). Curious what settings you use though? And also playfield slope?

I'm thinking of going to pure default settings except for ball save (maybe 6 or 8 seconds) and extra ball instead of free game... and 7 degree pitch.

Also have found that my witch isn't registering hits near the bottom so I'm going to have to determine how to adjust that...

I think this thread is a bit more complete rulesheet wise (but I may be biased and readily admit to borrowing heavily from the thread you mentioned): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet-2

And the video I think you are referencing is linked to from here --> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/19#post-2762475

The most recent rules (based on software 6.06) are available at any of these links:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet-2#post-3013858 (higher resolution, same doc linked to by Pindufus above)
http://papa.org/wp-content/uploads/WOZ-Rulesheet-Version-1-26.pdf (lower resolution)
and also on the jjp google group

Scott

PS. I'm always happy to improve this if anyone has suggestions, corrections, or additional detail.

See

for a suggestion on how to decrease/lessen the hum. The video is of Josh doing the fix on the game that I later bought from him. That said, I still have some humming but only when all the white lights are going (no clue how loud it was before I got the game).

Since there have been a series of questions related to initial setup of the game and the recent comment about the witch making an audible whine when moving up/down... this reminded me of the following. I recommend at least reading the first post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-check-list

For your witch sound I'd highlight these two bullets:
• Make sure witch clears on lowering/raising, hat rubs clear cover in the back.
• Check witch drive screw to make sure it doesn't hit opto when witch goes down.

You have to do three things. The first two can be in any order but the third has to be after both 1 and 2.
1. Capture Dorothy (i.e. lock a ball via the flying monkey)
2. spell RESCUE on the upper playfield*
3. break down the door on the upper playfield (3 hits) and then get the ball in the saucer.

*Note: If you fully spell RESCUE and have Dorothy captured but then get another mini-loop you'll have to respell rescue again before you can start the multiball (this is how you add balls to Rescue Multiball). You'll know you've done this b/c if you put a ball behind the castle doors you'll just be awarded RESCUE letters rather than starting the Rescue Multiball.

I've read that Drop Dead Foam works but haven't tried it myself yet (I bought it... just never installed it) --> http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131&zenid=t30qtmd53eomu11cjg9kfmeo63

Since you mention the other technical details... the one I would add is to verify the checksum on the download. If it isn't correct you'll need to download and verify again until it does. Then it should be as simple as defined in the manual.

Otherwise during the update you can definitely see progress updating but I don't recall exactly what it looks like.

Typically the lights in front of the witch indicate how many hits to start a hurry up... or how many hits to end the hurry up if active. I think green is to start and orange is while in a hurry up but could be wrong.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet-2

You shouldn't have to respell rescue... but you do have to hit the door 3x to open it.
And if you hit the loop then you will need to respell rescue (either before or after capturing dorothy).

When you enable a munchkin mode do the legs pop up (like they do out if the house) and kick you in the ... Could be the first mod to cause pain when you should get reward

I'm sure those with a more comprehensive understanding of the electronics and coils will chip in if this is wrong... but my understanding is that the EOS switch allows the flipper to change from high power (to flip strong and fast) to low power (for holding it up in place when it doesn't need all that energy flowing through the coil).

If you hold your flippers up a long time the high power to that coil will cause damage (e.g. if you cradle balls during multiball, etc.) as those coils not are intended to take constant high power.

I'd recommend fixing this sooner than later... and playing without any long cradles until fixed. FYI: Game will play fine without addressing this... until damage is done. Then you will have a bigger problem to fix.

Thanks Merccat and Bobukcat... glad to learn something new!!!

A few strategies for helping to complete Rescue Multiball (RMB) that I've used are:

1. Build up the number of ball for each RMB so you start with at least 3 preferably 4 or 5
2. Avoid stacking with a crystal ball mode at all costs... to do this I'll typically start a crystal ball mode and then let a ball drain before I start RMB
3. Do have 1 or 2 locks lit for Emerald City Multiball (ECMB) but not all 3... that way you can start RMB... get 3 shots to the ramp (for the 3x jackpot) and then likely be cued up so that 1 more shot will start ECMB stacking on top of RMB... but you save that until you are down to last ball from RMB... to restart it if you can do it quick.
4. Have the glinda target setup for a multiball restart if at all possible (i.e. don't have the last glinda award be that)
5. During RMB get the castle drop target/vuk to triple jackpot as soon as possible. Then the drop target will be down and you can collect letters on the playfield... and send balls up there to get them out of the way.
6. I personally avoid the super jackpots... I do try to collect letters on the castle playfield... but I don't want to reset a shot that only needs one more hit to get the triple jackpot (i'm thinking of the left orbit and crystal balls shots specifically here as I find those the most difficult).
7. Cradle two balls on left flipper and the crystal ball shot is easy to backhand... but only do it 2x in a row or you'll get no hold flippers.
8. Once all letters are lit (blinking or not) trap on the left flipper... and use right flipper only to get ball to castle VUK, collect blinking letters... and then do the orbit / door shot for the award.

Obviously, ball control is critical in all of the above.

All that said and done... it is a bitch to complete but so rewarding when you do.

LTG and others...

My flying monkey is misbehaving. Essentially it moves down very fast, smooth, and quietly. But on the upward return trip it is extremely slow (and maybe has a hickup). It goes so slow that after returning 1/3 to 1/2 way it stops and drops the ball. (My guess is that is by software design.)

A few comments:
* I've gone into test and it works correctly with regards to moving all the way up/left and down/right and triggering the sensors for those positions correctly.
* The motor when going down/right "hums" and you can tell it is spinning fast.
* The motor when going up/left sounds very different... essentially like it is not spinning as fast... (either due to torque or lower power)
* I have not yet added any lubrication to the shaft (happy to, and recommendations welcome)

Do you think lubrication alone will fix this?
Any chance the motor is getting different power levels for different directions?
Other thoughts?

Utesichiban before you jump to such wide speculation you might want to get a better understanding of history... and also research what your problem is and what it will take to fix it. Many people have already tried to help you but you're just jumping to the worst case solution (that everything must be replaced) instead of attempting to find and fix the problem that exist. (And it is very likely you don't need the entire kit or labor to install.)

I realize you probably are frustrated b/c it worked perfectly before you got it home; however, whenever you move a pinball things can happen (even if only moving it 10 feet in your basement)... but you'll either need to learn to enjoy the problem solving and fixing... or pay to have it fixed... or realize that owning a machine may not be for you b/c they always take some tinkering.

FYI: I'm not trying to be an ass but you come on here turning a mountain into a mole hill and making rampant claims with little to no understanding of background. It's not a great way to introduce yourself to a group that started out trying to help you...

OK... so now... let's get to getting your game back up and running. Suggest you follow some of the excellent suggestions Lloyd already posted... let us know what the results are... and we'll help you get to the bottom of this.

Documenting the fix here for others/posterity:

Finally got some white lithium grease... applied to just the lead screw (top rod in attached picture) that is attached to the motor and it helped a little but not a lot. Then I applied it also to the guide shaft (bottom rod in the attached picture) and that fixed the problem.

Thanks all!

WOZ-monkey-Mech-Pic (resized).jpg

No worries. Good luck with both pinball and the real life stuff! [And I agree... this light board stuff is very confusing... but if you break it into really small pieces and follow Lloyd's suggestions it can be worked through.]

Regarding pinball repair... the best thing to realize is that you might screw some things up but rarely are they catastrophic... and more often then not the fix isn't that difficult (once you know what's wrong).

Godspeed.