Man that is Terrible, I was lucky with my one and only NIB, and made a noob mistake of signing immediately. Now I now... never again best of luck!
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Need your input fellow WOZ owners. I have have gone back and forth about getting one for over a year and finally going to do it. I have 2 great options near me:
1) ECLE - 2015 older boards around 800 plays seller asking 8250
2) Ruby Red 2017 model, flawless 250 plays seller asking 9000.
Both seem high on price what would you guys recommend ? Both machine and price thank you!
Thanks pinballinreno this is very helpful knowledge. What mods would I need to basically make it match the RR edition?
I Think it’s the caste walls, Toto And tornado?
Thanks for all the input guys, so the lowest he will go on the ECLE is 7500. I’d be willing to do it for 7250
Question, where can I get a nib for 9k?? If I could find that price I’d be all about it... cheapest I have seen is 9500+shipping
Hey guys anyone have a recommendation on the best dealer to order a woz RR from? The best price I have found is 9500.00 + shipping from automated. But I keep hearing I can get one for 9k but where?
Finally got to put in some actual time on a woz... well 2 of them actually st the golden state pin all festival. Man! I love it what a great game. I just kept coming back for more.
That upper playfield is so challenging and fun, same with the House. The sounds and light show WOW. Seriously one of the best and most beautiful games out there
Hey guys, so I have a question for ya'll. I'm about to order a WOZ. But, I'm thinking of getting a standard, and powder coating all the trim green (LIke the ECLE) as I personally love the green, but want 2.0 system.
Other than some visual nick nacks (castle doors, toto, tornado etc..) is there any real difference between the RR and standard? thanks
I noticed that http://pinballs.com has some ECLE's in stock.. but don't appear to be the original ECLE's that JJP sold... rather some green version that they are claiming is ECLE??? I called and the sales rep said they were made specifically for them? ANyone have an input...
I'm a little hesitant to order from them as I have read countless posts of bad experiences ordering from pinballs.com
Well I got my WOZ in my house, fire up... and... bunch of lights out . I am new to JJP, so not sure really where to start... sadly I have a feeling its a lamp board or boards. This does have the 7.5v, and with such low plays kinda hard to believe it would be a board.
LED's 1-37 are not working
Any chance there is a fuse I can check or connections? Love any help thanks so much!
lights (resized).png
Sadly I did not get to, the seller assured me it was 100% working. At this point not sure the evidence is supporting that.
To “bypass” a board do I just go into the menu and start turning them off?
Thanks for the help arcadenerd925 LTG out of curiosity I pulled up the sellers listing... sure enough even in the photos the lights are out. Super frustrating.
So that rules out transporting causing this. it’s gotta be a bad board and he just didn’t disclose it, I’m going to give him the benefit of the doubt, and believe he didn’t notice... but really
OK, found the culprit, the data connector going from 56 to 26, on the green end, the ground wire had backed itself out. shoved it back in and hot glued it until i can order a replacement. Speaking of replacement where do i order one? I Could not find it on the part page.
Also, my WOZ head led seems to be out... this common, and should i order another from JJP? or can i use a 12 one I have from comet? Thanks
woz (resized).pngI guess this LED is notorious for going out ya?
ALso my machine has 06.61 is that the latest or should i update? thanks
One last thing... im getting some SUPER annoying vibration between the glass and side rails, cause the sub and music. I noticed the side rails on this game are not using doubled sided tape, and thus are kinda loose allowing little movement thus vibration
Thanks arcadenerd925 and idea where to buy this “special tape” also loving your fun house restoration!
Nevermind found it! Flipper fidelity sells it
So I also want to put an led in the state fair balloon... and I’m use to Williams, the wiring harnesses in this game is nuts, where / how do I tap into a gi circuit? Or power? Thank you
well just ordered a ton of goodies from Back Alley. Got the combo and added the emerald city.
I'm thinking about getting Pin Stadium, I don't have them on any of my machines. Though I think it's an amazing product I have always been concerned that it may detract from the intended presentation of the games, as they have are pretty dramatic effect.
Combo_set_all_3_woz_mods_480x480 (resized).jpgTop_city_wizard_of_oz_480x480 (resized).jpgHey guys about to order some cliffy’s for my woz but good lord... there is like a massive amount of options. I was thinking vuks, drop target and shooter lane... any suggestions? Cheers
Have you guys had good support from JJP with issues? I keep hearing they are the best in the industry, but I'm yet to see that. I called about 2 weeks ago, about 3 times, and always went to VM. I left a message and have heard nothing? Maybe there is a secret I am missing?
Been nodding away on my new woz. Got a whole bunch o goodies on! The hardest part was the cliffy for the castle VUK. Here is what she has now
• All new color matched total rubbers
• Cliffy’s on shooter lane, all VUK’s, drop target and munchkin playfield.
• Molded castle walls (waiting on the lantern)
• Tornado mod
• Molded emerald city
• Toto
• Target decals
• Mylar installed in front of Winkie target
I just did the munchkin playfield cliffy... I don’t know why folks think is so painful. I actually found it to be really straight forward... now the castle VUK that’s a doozie
Utesichiban well... right now yes, BUT Indy will never leave my collection it’s one of my grail pins. Right now woz is still “new” and so much to keep me busy . Indy is one of the best games ever.
My
Quoted from Utesichiban:I know there are some cool things about it but have to admit the board thing makes me a bit nervous.
I was nervous too, but the majority of the heaistation came from issues I’d heard... but low and behold where much more prominent on the 5v boards. I have had zero issues with mine.
Quoted from Utesichiban:What do ECLE's typically go for? I'm guessing those with the more reliable 7.5v boards go for a bit more, right?
My ECLE was one of the last made and it only had 24 plays on it from the previous owner and I paid 7500.00 - it does have buffered boards. Personally I didn’t want a ruby red. The green fits the theme so much better imo. Additionally the direct print can which is gorgeous, and the wood apron. It’s special. For that I was willing to risk having 7.5 boards. But hey if one, or two goes I’ll just buy new ones . If you really want to go for it you can always upgrade to 2.0 boards but it’s about as involved as a playfield swap and you need to drill
So I was just checking to see if my ECLE had Mylar and it does, but not in the pop bumpers and not in the state fair pop area. Is this something I can order from JJP? I thought someone posted previously about this?
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Open up a ticket with support, they will probably send it to you for free (they have in the past).
Is there a spot On The website to open a ticket?
Nepi23 I just installed full Titan rubbers on mine. It’s all about the right tools. To answer your question no you don’t have to remove the ramp or the castle playfield. The ones near the top rollovers are the toughest. I just loosened the right ramp so I could lift it slightly. Also you will probably need to remove the metal Spacers to allow more room. I used a combination of a long screw driver and an short 90 degree angled one. For the sling under the munchkin playfield here is a good video
Hey guys had an odd thing happen today. My buddy was playing my WOZ and all of the sudden all playfield lights went out...? Spotlights and throne room lights where the only ones on. I lifted the playfield to look st connections, and everything looked fine. Turned the game off and back on again... and all lights worked ? Very odd
that is really odd? But drop targets typically are either up or down... The mechanics are NOT made to have a "half way" state. Which makes me think this is coincidence, id check the meck from under the playfield and make 100% sure there is no binding, its moving freely, and that the entire meck itself is positioned so that the drop target is not pressing on the playfield hole it sits within. my 2 cents
I would remove the drop target meck so you can have it I. Your hand an ensure you can move it freely. If you can more it, then most likely it’s binding or rubbing on the playfield
Was working on my WOZ yesterday and noticed I think I have a bad LED board? IT is WAAY dimmer than the others and it flickers every now and then to brighter. Pretty sure its bad? How do I go about ordering a new one? Thanks guys
You can see it compared to another here:
LED (resized).png
Looks to be LED #116 Left Orbit High GI
IMG_7138 (resized).png
Thanks mountaingamer but this board is not listes there, I find the parts page to not very helpful in the past I needed a part that was not listed there either?
Quoted from avspin:So my witch stopped going up. I see it trying to. I did a search and couldn't find much, just check alignment. Before I dive in does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
Make sure the led ribbons didn't come loose and maybe get hooked on the which mech?
Hi guys! So my monkey seems to have hard time picking the ball up from the playfield magnet. The behavior almost looks like
The playfield magnet is too strong or is not releasing the ball at the right time.
About 50-60% of the time the monkey comes down tries to crab the ball, the ball moves slightly but then does not get picked up by the monkey. I’ll try to post a video, but I think I remember someone else having the same issue.
I have dug around and scoured up quite a few articles on this topic but haven’t been able to find one for my particular issue.
Thank you
pinheadpierre I did vuks, munchkin, shooter lane and opted not to do rollovers as they tend to diverge the ball path more than normal. Munchkin is a must the ball hit that edge in front of the ramps a lot
So I have been trying to solve my monkey issue and finally got around to trying what LTG recommended. The scenario is my monkey works fine, goes all the way down, but when he tries to pick the ball up the success rate is around 50%.
From an observers perspective, it appears that the playfield magnet is not releasing at the right time or is holding on to the ball too strong.
So I flipped the playfield magnet, this resulted in the monkey only going halfway down? Totally confused, so I flipped the magnet back to the way it was. love any help or other things to try thank you.
Ok just tried the test I am getting no monkey sense and the magnet does not grab the ball in the test. I do get a "Top Lane Magnet" confirmation briefly but thats it
so ya as far as I can tell the sensor is not working i removed it from the backboard and swiped the ball in front of it nothing, I tried moving it to different positions on the backboard, nothing. The weird thing is that the magnet holds the ball in game.... just the monkey can't seem to pick it up.
EDIT: Ok i did not have the coin door closed now its working just fine.
@harryhoudini believe its just a 2" mini flipper, that particular one has the long shaft you don't want that, its same as the Black Pearl flipper:
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-yellow-mini-flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly.html
Well guys I was playing my WOZ today and a board definitely went out. I can't remember the process of skipping /bridging a light board to find which one is the culprit. I would LOVE any guidance. thank you!
See below I have highlighted the only working lights.
boards (resized).jpglights (resized).jpgOk so the last light lit in the chain appears to be 3. SO, I bypassed 4 directly to 5? now how do I disable it... as nothing has yet happened? Cheers
ok i think i follow so if 3 is the last good one just keep branching off that to others in the series, i tried to 6 nothing so ill keep going
Its not possible this could be a fuse issue right?
Ok i tried 5, 6,7,8... when I connected to 5 got a quick little blink and out... the rest nothing... then I noticed this... crazy frayed ends on the W2 Connector, this can not be good ... I mean all the leads are touching, but it actually looks like a few of the longer connectors are just like this one? LTG
wire1 (resized).pngwire2 (resized).png
Ok I tried going from 2 to 5 and skipping 4, which actually was a working light, and we got more lights on... but still tons out in the lower playfield area
Daditude
Here: http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ.htm
See photo below, the entire edge is protected.
adam-edge3 (resized).jpgI almost bought one, then I scored a late model ECLE with 7.5 boards only 45 plays, I love it... the automated one does not have the wood apron, or topper, but supposedly does have 2.0 boards.
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