(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15,275 posts
  • 753 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 29 hours ago by zermeno68
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (10 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (5 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (5 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (5 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#8308 4 years ago

Just came into possession of a WOZ RR the other day and am super stoked...one last thing on my going thru the game I was hoping someone has seen.

The game doesn't seem to recognize the headphone jack. The jack itself is illuminated (volume indicator lights) when you turn the game on, but I'm getting nothing out when I plug in headphones. I reseated the connector both at the jack and at the computer with no luck.

In the options menu, the game doesn't seem to recognize I have a headphone jack as the options associated with headphones are greyed out and cannot be modified. I'm on 7.01 code.

Any help or thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!

#8310 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

There is a black plastic slide switch between the indicator light board and metal coin door. Try messing with that, in case it is off.
LTG : )

Gave that a shot, didn't even see that back there, no dice in both the up or down position. I can hear clicking thru my headphones when I press volume up or down, but no actual audio thru them.

Attached what the settings menu looks like in case that's at all helpful. Thanks for the quick reply!

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#8312 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No.
It's the switch in the coin door.
Or a loose cable from it.

The black switch on the board on the headphone jack in the coin door, yes? Or a different switch, which, I'll admit, if there's another switch there, I didn't see it.

I tried the switch suggested above. Apologies if I'm not understanding appropriately or missing something else that's there. I haven't yet checked the manual (that was my next step to see if I missed something) but only saw one cable between the headphone jack and the cpu, which I checked at both ends.

#8319 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Tiny Switch upper left inside corner of the coin door.
Should be set to enable.
If you look closely.
Other than that the headphones must be jammed in firmly, all the way in.
Its tight initially, but the jack has to bottom out completely.
The last little bit is important.
I had the same trouble early on.
It does not automatically mute the game speakers.
You have to push the lower button on the outside upper right of the coin door.
The volume adjustment there is for the headphones.
Adjust main volume inside the door also if necessary.
My phones needed to be really firmly pressed in.
Now, perfect.
I also got the external volume control from pinnovators.
It's really nice

Appreciate it, I'll fiddle with it tonight after work and see where I end up.

3 weeks later
#8546 4 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

Any issues with 7.02 so far

Played a few games last night with no issues and will be putting a good 3 hours on it tonight...will report back if I come across anything, though not much gameplay-wise has changed except HOADC

#8602 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I’ve completed it only a handful of times, and I’m not sure I’ve ever done it on my first ball. TOTO is much easier. But since the ball is supposed to drain through an outlane, any chance to keep playing and save it, regardless of difficulty, is better than nothing. I just think of it as an extremely hard mini game that you get to play on the side.

One item of note is that you're also scoring some decent points in TNPLH so it's definitely worth your time, especially in later code revisions where your progress saves (or can be saved) between balls...I agree it's not easy, but I also agree that any chance to save a ball on this game is totally worth it as the outlanes are brutal lol

1 year later
#11931 3 years ago

Have a small issue wonder if anyone else has had and how they went about fixing it...

The rivets that hold the lock nuts for one of the witch microswitches completely broke off, so I can't hold one of the switches in place and the other I'm constantly fiddling with and it'll either be too sensitive or not sensitive enough, so I guess really it's two problems with the same mech.

Is it possible to just replace that plate that has the rivets for those switches? Is there a better solution? Has anyone built a mod to replace these tiny roller switches into something more practical?

Wondering whether I have to order a whole new witch assembly or if there's something else I can do. Just really disappointed with how unreliable that mech has been since I've bought the game secondhand.

#11935 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Second hand games often need a few parts here and there.
I would just replace any parts that are broken or worn out.
The manual is a great place to start for exploded views and part numbers.
JJP will help you as you need parts.

Understood, just wondering if there's a better solution to these roller switches...at least on my game they've been very inconsistent and wondering if someone engineered something around them. I will grab a pic when I can to illustrate the issue specifically with the roller switch rivets.

#11937 3 years ago

Thanks for the quick reply

#11939 3 years ago

You might be able to notice here. This is the mounting plate for the two micro roller switches that trigger the witch switch plate hits. This is part of the whole witch bracket.. The one on the left, the rivets have broken completely while the right is completely fine, which leads me to having to make constant micro adjustments to ensure the switch plate registers correctly.

If there's no mod to replace the roller switches, I'm assuming i need a whole new bracket.

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#11941 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

When I did this I had to replace the bracket.
Back to original problem this witch switch issue needs a good solution. I have repeatedly called in this topic for someone to make a better solution and to date no one has risen to the challenge. Still hoping something can be done.

Agreed, and thank you for your help...I will just order a bracket and go from there!

1 year later
#13301 2 years ago
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:

Trying to find the timing adjustment within the adjustments for the Muchkinland ball lock gate. I have the latest FW. Anyone know where to find this adjustment?
Thanks
[quoted image]

There is an adjustment for both the release duration and the hold strength if I recall correctly, I believe in the coil settings. It's in milliseconds and can change for the number of balls locked.

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