Hey guys. I’m looking to join the club however the only machine available second hand in the UK currently is an early production 27/1000. It has the original 5v lamp boards and according to the seller, there have been no issues.
But knowing my luck, the second I take ownership, they’ll break.

I’m just curious to know how many WOZ owners out there have original boards still with no issues.
Should this put me off
How are the JJP stock levels of the 2.0 kits should I need them.

I’m guessing it’s a case of “when” and not “if”they break!!

Thanks all
Gaz

Cool thanks for posting. I’m taking delivery of a very early run of WOZ (No 27/1000) which I will inevitably have to replace the boards at some point. Was it easy to purchase the boards from JJP. And what is the total cost including shipping if you don’t mind me asking, although I’m uk based so will cost more

Hi guys
Joined the club today with a HUO one owner. It’s a very early model, number 27/1000. The previous owner had it in his company office so it didn’t get a lot of play and the owner wasn’t a pinhead so pretty much all teething problems out of the box still exist. God knows how he played it. J108 wasn’t even connected so he had no slingshots, upper slingshot, upper flippers or state fair bumper !!!!!!
A couple of questions if I may? Switch D06 Monkey magnet sense isn’t registering. Where the hell is that, despite the using the diagnostic map I don’t know what I’m looking for.
Also the monkey sometimes only goes halfway before returning to home without taking the ball. I’m guessing this may be something to do with that switch error? Also he doesn’t drop the ball when he gets to the top.

Oh and..... what the hell are you supposed to do on this game

Thanks in advance
Gaz

Thanks mate. I’ve found it. Still intermittent. What purpose does it serve?

Ah great thanks for that mate.
So if the ball doesnt make it round to the magnet and the monkey comes down anyway and goes back empty handed,
How do you relight the capture Dorothy magnet again? The flying monkey targets seem to remain lit.
Apologies for dumb questions. I still haven’t got a clue how to play the game, nevermind figure out if mechs and working as they should!

Thank you all so much for the replies. I feel much better now. It’s really isn’t a big deal then at all. The game just compensates.

On a side note, my standard edition 27/1000 has a clear coated cabinet. I thought these were reserved for the ECLE’s. My friend has something in the 800’s/1000 and his doesn’t have the clear coat.

Me again

Ok, so I sorted the hall sensor by zip tieing it in the loom just above the magnet. Works a charm. Can’t sway in to anything to risk a short.

In other news, I noticed that occasionally when I started mutiball, the balls wouldn’t release. It would do a ball search forever but never realease the balls from the lock. In coil test the lock coil wouldn’t work. I had to remove the glass and manually lift it. Then it would work ok for a bit, then do the same.

Luckily I removed the glass quickly to investigate as I touched the coil it was red hot and then started to smoke.
I was in coil test at the time and it suddenly started lifting and dropping as it should. I obviously then turned the machine off and left it.

So in essence. The coil isn’t permanently locked on. It will function correctly sometimes. Does this rule out a dodgy transistor?
I’m guessing The coil is now fried so will need a new one anyway. I can’t test for resistance at the moment as it’s cooling down and I need to get to bed!!

This machine is testing me!!

Edit. I Have a theory and I’d be interested to hear your views. I just read a thread on pinballinfo whereby people had problems with the ball lock not lifting the armature as the gap between the magnet and the arm was too big so it couldn’t lift the arm. I’m thinking if this is the case with mine, the coil stays energised until a ball lock switch is triggered telling the machine a ball has been released, thus switching off the coil. Otherwise it continues to try and lift the armature.
Sound plausible?.? I don’t know. It kind of makes sense given that the coil isn’t locked on the whole time.

Once again thank you to the pinside community for taking the time to help me. The coil still tested within range so it’s fine. I followed LTG’s picture guides from the other threads and it’s all good.
Until next time......

I owe you all a beer.

Think i also have my first lamp board issue. Ramp lock light. Works in test and cycles all colours. Doesn’t illuminate during gameplay. Well it starts lit then goes out.
I can see this game becoming firewood

It works ok in test though. I’ll have a check. Since I turned it off and on again it seems to be working correctly.

Now I just need to fine tune that damn monkey who doesn’t drop the ball at the top. Most of the time the ball drops when you press the flipper causing it to vibrate off.

Thank you LTG. It’s a huge comfort knowing you’re here. A bit like Home Improvement!! You’re Wilson, the wise neighbour who you never see behind the fence but always has the words of wisdom to put things right!!!

So after a week with WOZ, having ironed out all the new in box niggles that the original owner had never done, I absolutely love it. The hype is deserved. More by luck than judgement I managed to start 2x scoring with all lamps on, then immediately start rescue multi ball and normal multi ball. The game was going nuts. Lights were going nuts, I was going nuts. Such an immersive game. It creates an atmosphere like no other. Ended up with half a million final score.

Don’t you just hate it when you go for a fancy slap of the flipper button but just slap the side of the cabinet and miss it altogether and drain!! (No? Just me?) That’s how my game ended. Gutted.

Sorry... I’m about 6 years late to the party!!
This game is awesome

Edit: double post

My 2.0 kit arrived today. It’s almost as if it knew as for the first time I had lamp anomalies.

State fair target lamps locked on (well some of them did) I’d obviously lit them all as the ball save mode started but the lamps which were illuminated were stuck blue. Also a few random yellow brick road lamps were also stuck on blue.

Turned the game on and off again and played for about an hour and half without issue. Odd !!

I had exactly the same concerns a couple of months ago before I bought mine.
In the UK I could have spent literally years waiting for a 2.0 upgraded game to appear for sale. So I pitched for a very early run standard editon (27/1000) it has all original 5v boards. So far no issues. I purchased the JJP 2.0 kit and it sits under the machine like a giant £700 paper weight juuuuuuuust in case I ever need it. Must be mad but WOZ is no ordinary game. Buy one, enjoy it, if it breaks buy the upgrade kit and fix it. Life is too short to worry about things that might not happen.

Forgive as I haven’t read all the posts in detail but it sounds like a connector on the main board may be loosely seated. I had similar problem with my flipper and it turned out the connector on board was just sat loosely on the pins. Sometimes the connection was good and all worked fine, others it wouldn’t work at all.
Worth a check. And if you’ve already tried this. My apologies

They’re temperamental mate. Mine had a bad connection. Just needs a tweak every once in a while!!

My standard edition (27/1000) has a clear coated cabinet. Does that mean it has a printed cab as opposed to decals?
Does anyone know how many standards made it out with the clear coated cabinet?

I bought an early run WoZ and knew of the lighting issues. Mine is still going fine but for piece of mind I do have a full 2.0 system waiting in the wings!!

I’m currently on code version 6.06.
Is it worth me updating to the latest code. Is there anything glaringly obvious that makes it better.
I’ve never owned a modern machine so have never updated code before

I had an issue once when the flippers would die. Turned out to be a loose connector on the main board in that metal case thing. Check those

Tweak the switches. The only reason I can think the monkey would return after only travelling half way is because it’s activating the top switch. Have a look at how it behaves in test.

I must admit, I fired mine up this morning for a quick blast for the first time in a month. It’s such a great game. To think I offered it up for sale last week!!! Thank god it didn’t sell!!

Yeah it’s just a sticker like the pricing decal

47C2011B-630B-4BA7-82EB-45ABCC0B6895 (resized).png

I have that black thing instead of tubing. What’s the purpose of it and how is the tubing an improvement. My monkey works fine............ at the moment!!

Cool. Thanks all. Seems simple enough. We don’t mind those fixes

Same here. I just nudge it out. It frustrates my 5 year old though as he’s not strong enough to nudge it out. Happens fairly frequently.

That’s what I did. Worked faultlessly now for months

Regarding the crystal ball. There is a micro SD card in the pcb attached to the screen. Switch off. Reseat. Reboot. Should be good

Are you considering mine mate . If so gimme a pm on pinball info. I’ll bore you for ages about it